Anybody know whether you need to remove the engine support cross-member from underneath the engine if you're running an after-market Y-pipe? I'm going to be doing the tranny removal in a few days, and surmise that the only reason that removing this (as "prescribed" in the FSM) is to more easily access the bellhousing bolts.

 

you don't have to remove it.

 

I would imagine that removing that cross member would make your life easier when accessing some of the bolts behind it on the bell housing. However it is not necessary to remove it. With the right tools you can reach those bolts just fine.

 

No. Safer and faster to remove it. DR-Max is right about it being more difficult to loosen the bolts on the opposite side of the bellhousing. Get yourself a metric Gear Wrench wratching wrench set and there you go.

 

You don't have to remove it but I've found it easier to remove it. It seriously takes like 5 minutes.

 

Okay, unless I'm misunderstanding this, my choices are-
1. Support the engine (from underneath), remove the crossmember, and the bellhousing bolts are easiest to remove/replace; or
2. Don't bother with the support or removing the crossmember, but the bolts are more difficult to remove/replace (but not really very hard if you have the right tools).
Does that pretty much sum it up?
Happy New year, everyone.
Curt

 

No, dont touch it, it doesn't make anyones life easier. I would remove the trans mount completely off the car and off the trans, while supporting the trans with a trans support or a hydralic 3 ton jack. That would make things way easier.

 

That pretty much sums it up Curt.

 

Thanx, guys. Something which looks like it’s going to make this job a whole lot easier is the hoisting bracket in this picture. It came on a my new tranny. I’ve tried it and it seems to have pretty near perfect balance (at least for a 5-speed). So rather than having to wrestle with the tranny from below, I can just position my hoist over it. I’m not lazy, but I am big on easy!

 

If you don't have one of those brackets, I found you can use a ratcheting strap and run it around the tranny. In that pic, run the strap diagonally from the lower left to the upper right and it will hoist the tranny in pretty good balance. The ratchet works pretty nice to let it down gently, and you can use a regular jack to lift it without worrying about it tipping off.

Dave

 

I went from the hood, grabbed the hole where the starter goes, and pulled it up. My bicep and lat were sore the next day.

Jae

 

trans is 100 pounds getting it out of the engine compartment with your hands is a diff story thats something I wouldn't have done ha. But you got it out congrats to you.

 

Someday you may (unfortunately) injure your back trying to pull off something like that, and spend the rest of your life waking up each morning regretting such foolish bravado. But I guess that's part of what growing up is about.

 

I didn't mess with it. It really only took me 10 minutes or so to get the bottom bolts off, just try to get the car up a little bit higher than normal.

 

True that! Next time for sure I'll use the tranny jack, even tho it's harder to maneuver, less risk (to me) involved.

Jae

 

For the record, yesterday I removed my tranny without removing the crossmember. (The first time I did it last year, I removed the crossmember). I believe leaving it in works better.

Obviously, you do need a ratcheting wrench or something with a low profile. The trick for me, was to have the passenger axle removed, and use a wobble socket & 12" extension to reach the two 14mm bolts that attach the shifter support bar to the tranny. That saves having to support the engine (b/c there are still 3 mounts holding it) and removing all that crap.

Dave

 

Thanx, guys, great advice. I pulled my tranny yesterday without removing the cross-member and no problem (for anyone with a reasonably complete set of tools, but don't expect to do it with just Channel Locks and Vise Grips).
BTW, lowering the tranny (by myself) with that bracket I pictured and a hoist was a piece of cake. An alternative if you don't have a hoist is an 8-foot piece of 1" pipe and a couple of friends standing on each side of the car. Use a heavy rope slung over the pipe with a couple pairs of Vise Grips clamped to the pipe on either side of the rope so it doesn't slip towards one end of the pipe or the other.

 

For the record (again), I need to clarify a couple things I said.

1) The 12" extension and wobble socket worked great for accessing one of the 14mm bolts on the shifter support bar, and the 17mm tranny bolt that's directly above the passenger side axle seal. The other 14mm bolt on the support bar is reached by using a ratcheting wrench.

2) Using the ratcheting strap and a crossbeam worked great for letting down the tranny, but the way to do it is by running the strap around the seam in the housing halves. (Somewhere else I suggested running it diagonally, which is slightly out of balance).

Dave