Lower than that, you sould feel the difference in the 3500-3700ish range. The stock intake system is good enough so that you won't gain too much from adding an aftermarket intake system, even after the y-pipe. I didn't notice too much of a gain right after installing it, however after about 500km of driving i noticed it much more. You'd probably notice it much sooner than that since i didn't really test it in between the minute i rolled out of the shop and after the 500km drive.

If you still can't feel it, go on the highway and put it down. My car felt like it just fell flat on its face in the higher RPM's, but now it feels much more respectable, (still not fast, but a LOT better).

LEMAR

When it comes to boosting, problems arise when the install is crappy, the tune is crappy, or you are pushing way too much boost on stock internals. A kit pushing 6psi would require little to no maintanence in terms of fixing problems.

I just picked up my max and the first thing im doing is suspension. Being able to throw your car around corners is a much higher rush for me than straight line acceleration. I dont know much about the effects of the Y-pipe but what from everyone is suggesting, the power comes at the top of the RPM range, starting a 3.5kRPM, nothing you would feel on regular driving. You were probably hoping for 15-20 ft/lbs of torque, right?

Good luck with everything, I hope you fix that buzzing. Damn ricer in his Scion flies through my street everyday and his exhaust makes me cringe.

I guess I'll take it back at some point and make them double check the install. I may even head out there and try to tighten a little myself. It all looked installed correctly when I put it on ramps the other day and got under it. I think maybe this pipe just buzzes. If so, I can deal with it. When I have the stereo on I can't even hear it. I have just been driving around with the stereo off lately since I got the y-pipe installed to listen to it.

I just had my Warpspeed Y installed today. I pulled outta the shop and headed over to the on ramp floored it onto the expressway. I did notice some extra kick in between 3500 and 4500 rpm.... more than what I was used to feeling in that range.

The guys that put it in did a good job. It's in there tight, no leaks anwhere. Plus it sounds pretty agressive, not too loud, not ricey, just plain good.

Skeptics might call it the placebo effect, but overall, I got exactly what I thought I would out of this install and I'm happy with it.

Looking at the graph, it seems pointless to put a Y-pipe on an auto. Hardly ever gets past 4000 anyway. And as for the idea of flexible parts of an exhaust? YUCK! I learned to avoid such things with my Ford Rochdale Special, back in the 60s. Flexible bits always leak and break.
The obvious and decent and REAL way to gain power on any motor is to change the cams. Now why cannot I see any threads on here about upgrading the camshafts???

WTF are you talking about n00b? Members here have gotten into the 13's n/a without touching the cams. Besides, what good is changing the cams if the exhaust is stock?? GTFO ------>

for realz.....if u drag race at all with an auto it will see 5700 rpms all the time....damn noobs.....even in auto-x with an auto leave it in 2nd and u live past 4k......but what do we know

JWT Popcharger is a good intake, I run it on my 97 i30 and I noticed a little extra pull in mid-high range powerband once I bolted it on in about 30 min while smokin a blunt. Its usually the first $100 you put into modding.

As for the air temp sensor, it doesnt plug into the airbox, but the section of stock intake plastic piping that leads into the airbox, check it out yourself, it looks like a plug. And the "boost" sensor, or manifold absolute pressure sensor, should stay in its place. Check out www.vqpower.com 's How-To links, Poorman HAI. If you keep the stock system and incorporate the pop-charger, you'll get better results.



As for all this "bees in the can" business, that can be caused by a number of things including your EGR system. But if all bolts are properly tightened and there are no blatant leaks in your gaskets or piping, then just wrap it thouroughly with header wrap. Not satisfied? Give it a few generous coats of 1500 degree resistant spraypaint. That combo of paint and wrap will stabilize and insulate the pipe for less turbulent internal operating conditions. It could be as simple as the design of the piping itself, in the case of some cheaper pipes. Either way, always use process of elimination for diagnosing a car problem

From what I understand, there are few companies that are willing to offer us applications for our vehicles. I agree that we need to see more threads on here talking about cams, as I dont remember ever seeing any in the short time I've been here. But I could also argue the fact that cams are expensive and if you're not skilled enough to do it yourself, internal engine work can be very expensive. Don't forget, the VQ30DE isnt a primal, fuel-hungry American V8 that stands to gain 50hp throughout the powerband from added lift. In fact, unless you're running around 10 psi added boost, you're likely to only see gains of 20hp (the equivalent of a variable intake, for example) or so.

The point is, our cars give us a lot of options when it comes to naturally aspirated upgrades, believe it or not. You want to feel gains? Increase your engine's intake and exhaust volume & velocity while maintaining optimum flow. Then tune the car's ECU for optimum utilization of resources. This is a Japanese car, its performance goal should always be overall EFFICIENCY.

You want gains? Do a 3.5 swap, and you're RELIABLY in the mid-low 13s with some minor mods! Probably won't cost over $2k if you do it yourself too. Seems like the smartest way to go for a hardcore maxima modder.

all of you.

I have a K&N panel filter and a stainless steel Budget y-pipe, both bought in June 2004. I have absolutely no bees in the can sound. At WOT, there is a slight growl that I kind of like. At idle I can not hear the engine at all.

I had the stock air filter in briefly when I first bought the y-pipe. I then bought the K&N panel filter. I believe there is an incremental power difference with the K&N panel filter as it breathes better than a stock air filter, further complementing the aftermarket y-pipe's power as more air flows through the exhaust system. It could be a placebo effect but I highly doubt it. Obviously I haven't done a before and after dyno.

You may have a clogged cat.

So, basically the stock cams are quite good? I'm used to vehicles where the stock cams would basically be pathetic, the power gain would be as much as 35% or more. I have been wondering who supplies cams and I have not been able to find any for the Gen 4. Each side of it, yes. . .
I have not seen a forum before where so many people lack basic manners and insult others. It just goes to show their lack of education.

If I install a y-pipe but keep the stock muffler I will still get the gains right? I dont want a ricey sound

Go boost you should feel that!!!

My Y-Pipe sucks. It's really loud at like 4500 rpms and whenever I floor it my wheels jump all over the place. I wish I had my stock Y-Pipe.








NO

We don't take well to know-it-all n00bs that come onto the site and attack the things that we've known to be true for years.

Jwt cams are the only ones available I believe....

Yes, I already checked their site out. Only available for the 3.5 engine; and, they claim a miserable 15HP for cams that cost over a grand! Makes no sense, a turbo would be cheaper and provide a lot more power. Which would explain why nobody on the forum seems to discuss that area.
The implication is, that if all they could offer was a miserable 15HP gain, then the stock cams must already be pretty good.

Since you've been around automobiles for such a long time, you'll understand that looking at peak numbers as opposed to average gains throughout the powerband (and/or how the modification changes the shape of the torque curve) is erroneous.
I'll admit that it's not at the top of the bang-for-buck list, but there isn't a turbo setup for our cars that's even remotely close to being that cheap, custom or otherwise. Let's not even get into the discussion of reliability and proper tuning.
Once again, peak numbers don't tell the entire story. Besides, what makes a cam "good"? There are factors in a motor's design other than the cam profile that determines it's volumetric efficiency characteristics as well. You're oversimplifying it.

i am sure u could also pic up a set of stock 3.5 cams and get the spacers and whatever else is needed....have decent gains and still be cheaper than JWT cams

Update....I took the car back to the place that installed the y-pipe and they checked for leaks and said that there weren't any. The noise isn't bad but it does buzz some now. It sounds like an exhaust leak and it is more noticeable in the city when driving next to curbs or underpasses. The weird thing is that it doesn't really buzz that much in first gear at WOT. Once I hit second though it gets louder and continues in every other gear. Im pretty sure that I notice a decent power gain in the upper RPM's. It does seem like there is a tiny bit of lag at 2k-2500k RPM too. That basically confirms the dyno graph on motorvate.ca. Maybe I was expecting 15+ HP to feel like more than it really is.

15hp is not the same thing as 15 ft/lbs of tq, remember that

Pretty much. People get confused into thinking that adding a y-pipe will make the car pull much harder. In effect, the car won't pull that much harder, but it will pull hard for longer in the rev-range, thus giving a net acceleration increase.

how can you tell if its leaking? since i got my WSP y pipe installed ive felt no difference in power, but i do get a hissing noise from 5000-6500rpms.

also, i now throw a knock sensor code. i prolyl started throwing it before the pipe was installed, but it still sucks. hopefully once i get the new knock sensor in i will be able to feel it a bit better. im also gettin a frankencar purely for vanity.