clive

Can anyone tell me what RPM should be obtained when testing an auto with the wheels locked? (Apply brakes firmly, shift into drive and floor the accelerator)

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

are you doing?

Stall speed is ~ 1200-1500, IIRC.. I'll have to look ...

Tim96I30t

iTrader: (2)

POWER BRAKE??? are you kidding...

tavarish

iTrader: (27)

dibs on his tranny, i could make it into a bench in my garage..


i think you have the order wrong, it's floor the gas pedal, shift into drive, then apply brakes firmly.

Hope I helped.

clive

It's a standard test. Obviously you don't do it for more than a few seconds.

RockfordMax

iTrader: (2)

New Automatic transmission - 450 dollars
Newbie explaining a "standard test" to us - priceless

tomservo291

haha.

it's not a very good "standard" test if it requires doing something that will damage components from all parts of your car in one shot now is it? (tranny, drivetrain, brakes.)

clive

What's really priceless is a 16 year-old kid (surely not allowed to drive anything except a moped) making fun of an engineer who's been racing motorcycles and modding/spraying cars since 1964.

tomservo291

Then surely you don't need our advice, as you are an experienced racer you should be telling us your life stories as we sit on the edge of our seats...

Oh wait, you came to the forums and asked...

Toodles.

clive

And, see:
-------------------------------------------
http://www.gadgetonline.com/Transmission.htm
There are some terms you might want to know so you will know what I am talking about.

Stall Speed - When you apply full power and hold the car still with the brakes the stall speed is the maximum RPM the engine will produce with no forward movement.

Flash Speed- Without holding the brakes, snap the throttle full open from a standing start and the RPM will quickly run up to and then hold briefly as the vehicle starts moving. The RPMs will then start to climb again. This pause is called the "flash speed."
----------------------------------------------
The above note being from a guy who evidently spent lots of $$$ having his tranny upgraded by a company that looks pretty seriously competent.

Maxima-4DSC

iTrader: (1)

and why would we need to know this ? whats the point of breaking your car to know this ? and what does this info do for us ?

nismology

iTrader: (8)

There's a way to discover this without harming your transmission. It's called the Factory Service Manual.

Just checked and the stall RPM is 2000-2300 RPM.

descent

iTrader: (1)

i got my max when i was 16..i hope that by the time im your age i will be driving a g35 or a 350z or something.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

stfu, kthx, bye

Jime

iTrader: (10)

When I returned my 02 Max in Nov after the lease expired the only thing that was checked mechanically (hood wasn't even opened) was a stall test.

Also after over 350 runs at the track (most of them done at full stall and many with nitrous off the line) the trans never gave me a problem.

Next year my 95 GXE is getting the 3.5 swap and a 4th Gen auto with a 3500 stall speed and according to many it won't last one run. However it was able to handle a 150 shot of nitrous off the line a number of times and like my 2k2 never gave a problem. I did blow one trans about 3 years ago because I was burning out in D and after a very decent burnout which had the tires over 100 mph it hit a patch of traction and bingo. After that my burnouts were done in 1st gear.

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

+1

future

i knew i was right one of my stupid friends that thinks he knows everything told me that doing burnouts in D wasn't gonna hurt the tranny. good thing i didnt listen and did it in 1st.

nissan240sxdriv

I was on my way home from a get together and I used my stopwatch to time my 0-60 time and for some reason with and without torque braking I got times from 8.08 being the best and 8.8 being the worst. With overdrive on and off. For some reason if I turn overdrive off it revs to 6500 rpms in 1st gear then shifts to second {automatic} and the revs drop to 3k and stay there for a second then for some reason it drops me back into 1st like there was more to offer from the lower gear. All with my foot to the floor. I read a post where someone got a time of 6.7 with there 1995 gxe auto , which I have the same model. I am wondering how I can achieve this time ??!?? All help would be greatly appreciated.
-Just I side note I beat a 2005 Infinity G35 Auto Sedan today from 0-50 then it beat me but from a dig at a green light I got it YAYAYAYAY.
-Sorry to be off topic guys but this was really stumping me!

nissan240sxdriv

I just ran it again and I got a time of 7.6 whoo hoo ......still no 6.7 though??
Could it be because my max has 232k miles on it ? eventhough they are all highway miles. I'd really like to know how to get the time down a second. Please help!!!

4x4Max

iTrader: (12)

6.6 is for a 5 speed manual. From your post, im assuming you have auto, so that 7.6 time is right where it should be.

4x4Max

iTrader: (12)

He was toying around with you. If he raced for real, you would be completely owned!

nissan240sxdriv

no guys it was my best friend in the G35 and we were racing for real from a green light. He seriously lost from 0-50 then he slowly passed me. Sad isnt it. you'd think that 3.5L engine could prevail but the car is 3500 lbs and he is 300lbs himself so that is much more than my 3100 lbs max with me 140lbs.

clive

(As a later post notes) it's a quick way of testing whether a transmission is good or not. I know my own car's trannie is good; I am looking for another one to buy. That's why I wanted to know. I was surprised to be slagged off by some people who evidently consider themselves experts but who have obviously no idea about this simple test.
I was first shown this test about 25 years ago by an engineer in the UK who ran a car sales business. He was an auto fanatic. At the time I wouldn't touch an auto and modded my TR6 so that it had O/D on 2nd, 3rd and 4th, giving me the equivalent of a 7-speed gearbox. It was also my first fuel-injected car but I spent many, many hours on the Lucas mechanical injection system which was highly strung and often went wrong. Right now I am concentrating on bringing my 96SE up to 100% condition before I even think about mods. Mods will have to wait; the engine-out job to fix all the leaks, plus fixing the leaking PS pump, has already cost $560 and next comes the bodywork and paint, probably the same amount again. Meanwhile I will fix the Bose display and other minor problems...
Thanks to those of you who don't automatically assume Newbie=Idiot.

Akumachan

iTrader: (12)

hmm, maybe im the only one that caught this, but if you're 39, then you were born in 1966, so you started racing and spraying cars before you were even concieved? That just seems a bit odd to me...

nismology

iTrader: (8)

The 39 is his post count, not his age....

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

haha

Akumachan

iTrader: (12)

shazbot, I really need to wake up more before I try to prove people's stupidity... ohwell, I was

chillin014

iTrader: (67)

haha, its all good.
at first i thought you were right and almost quoted with the "oh snap" on yours. whew.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Truth > *

I was off a little, but that's because I hadn't checked yet.....clearly there are better ways to check other than ...

MorpheusZero

iTrader: (10)

Jesus, why can't people just be helpful? The guy asked a question--if you object to what he does, then feel free to say so, but I doubt that "brake torquing" is going to hurt the car if done for a few seconds.

Seems like everyone on these forums needs to not be so quick to disrespect. If he asks a question, just answer it--it's really unecessary to be such ****s. It's not like there was anything about it in the stickies...

Stephen Max

iTrader: (59)

Yeah, you guys need to back off. What Clive is talking about is a standard test, and it even describes how to do it in the FSM.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

True, but we always have to flame because we think we know it all but we don't.

nismology

iTrader: (8)

Besides, the original poster came off as a know-it-all in another thread, so i don't feel too bad.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Clive, When racing my '99, I bring the auto up to 1800 and launch from there. That seems to be about max RPM at stall, and I use different DRs to launch with. I did replace the standard automatic with a low-mileage '99 Infiniti I30t VLSD automatic, using Mobil1 and a cooler, and this works much better when launching with nitrous. This way, both front tires get traction. I just installed an Edge torque converter with 3000 stall and other mods, and even without spray on the launch and on street BFGs, the car seems to launch much faster from the line. If you're gonna take the car to the track, get JClaw's traction bars first.

I use Jime's drop-resistor mod through a WOT switch, and the shifts are hard and quick. Come April, when the tracks open, the Edge will get a workout. It will be fun to figure out how best to use it......

13.61 ET 101.7 MPH

Supermax95

iTrader: (2)

im pretty sure he just wants to test a car for problems....

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Bringing up RPM's does not promote any benefit when racing due to the fact that the engine/tranny mechanical relationship has to play catch up and actually results in a bog..

1100 RPM, or off idle is best when racing and/or tracking..

This answer comes from both experience and search ...

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

Sure 'bout that? Things change... Several folk here are installing high-stall torque converters for the track, including Jime, so we can launch at higher RPMs. With good DRs or drag slicks, and good HP, you can benefit from higher launch RPMs.

I bring my engine up to 1800 stall, then go into spray on launch w/255x50x16 BFG DRs and don't bog - ever. Next season I'll try 2800-3000 RPM launches and plan to get below my 2.0 sec 60'.


Clive, sorry about the OT direction of your thread. Tell us more about yourself, and where you call home. Did you find another auto tranny for your Max?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Yes because without a high stall convertor, brining up the RPMS holds no benefit. IMO

With a high stall installed, it will help, since the stall speed is raised, but with stock stall units, I stand by what I said, where the engine has to play cathc-up.

With a hi(er than stock)-stall, the engine and tranny have not 'met yet' ...

My conflict was with people that 'power brake' in order to help launches. I do not think there is, and have not noticed any benefit with either of my cars (A32 and A33B) .. But keep in mind, I'm all aobut N/A. perf.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

I tend to agree about benefit if you are talking about best et. However if you are bracket racing (my game) then full stall is more consistent when coupled with a line-lock because there isn't any pedal movement after you leave the line like taking off with a lower stall. My best times have come from a 1k launch.

grey99max

iTrader: (12)

OK - with a stock engine/tranny/tires, I agree with you. It was easy to torque-up and spin tires excessively on launch. Coming off idle worked the best.

But, adding sticky tires, installing a VLSD tranny, spraying on launch, racing on a good sticky track, or raising HP a bunch all blows that theory away. Raising RPMs up to stall puts you further up the HP curve of your motor, giving you a better launch... Providing you can stay hooked up, launching at torque stall is better, yes?