motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

So I decided to check my motor mounts out tonight, big mistake i wish i hadn't seen how horrible they are. my rear motor mount is completely shot and the front is close. I was checkin everythin out on here and polyurethane seems to be the way to go but $85.00 a peice?? Nothin in forsale on here nor ebay any recommendations? is polyurethane really worth the extra 30 bucks? Thanks

MidniteMaxSE

iTrader: (20)

im in need of motor mounts also...where did you find these polyurethane mounts?..

matty

iTrader: (54)

http://www.suspension.com/nissancars.htm

$80 for the set. It will be a bit more solid then stock, but youll eliminate most of your wheel hop and these are "slide" in. You dont need to buy an entire new mount

-matt

motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

I just hopped on google, found a couple different places but didn't find that one matty shows. Do you know if those ones are polyurethane or not I couldn't tell on the site. Thanks for the site tho def. made my night better

Tfvesquire

iTrader: (2)

Hello:

I saw you were in the market for a poly mount for the rear. I listed an OEM rear mount in the for sale section that is in great shape in case you want to install it while you continue to search for some urethane/poly mouonts for a decent price. Look for the the thread "1998 SE Rear Motor Mount" and see if you could use it. Make me a reasonable offer and hopefully we can make a deal -- I have no use for it.

Thanks,

Ted, Chicago

PM me or send a msg to my email tfvesquire@aol.com

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

in my 98 I got the Energy Suspension mounts from Cattman. They were under 100 for the inserts, then you will just need to take them somewhere and have them pressed in. In my 95, I filled my stock mounts with urethane, this also seems to be holding up well so far, but the mounts have only been back on the car for about 1k. This cost about 25 bucks from urethane from McMaster Carr. The down side to this, is that you should let the urethane set up for a few days (I let mine set up for a week because I had the motor out of the car). Goodluck.

motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

Has anyone tried the ones that matty showed us? Or does anyone know if they are good??? cardana you said they have to be pressed in? i thought they just slid in, guess i was wrong...who would press them in for me? do I have to find a machine shop or could like midas do it.

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

If you can get the old ones out I saw someone post up about using their car to press the polys in. Just set the mount with the bushing under a tire and slowly lower the car on top of it. I havent tried it myself, but it is supposed to work.

motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

haha thats awesome, how would you get the old one out if it takes the weight of the car to put it in lol

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

yes, they are a tight squeeze, and getting the old metal ring out on the old one is a pain. After doing it once myself I would probably pay someone to do it now. Any shop should have a press that can push the new insert in. Just call and ask.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

the new ones are poly urethane all the way thru except for the eye thru the middle. The factory ones are rubber that are attaced to a metal ring, to keep the right shape. So what I did was rip out a lot of the rubber using various tools, and once that is done I used a center punch and hammer to poke the ring out a little bit, then I used a hammer and large flat blade screw driver to wedge/cut down the side of the metal ring until I could knock it out. Its not as easy as it sounds...it took me a few hours.

motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

Ya I'm pullin my mounts off in about 10 mins just thought i'd check up see what the new feedback is. I don't really have to worry about the center part where the bolt goes through...thats already detatched along with most of the rubber lol! sounds like i'll be bustin out my hammer on this one eh? Thanks guys

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Here is an easier way to remove the "ring" from the old bushing

Remove the rubber.

Take apart a hack saw.

Insert the blade through the motor mount.

Assemble the hack saw.

Cut a small 1/4" section of the "ring" out. Be careful not to saw into the mount itself.

Remove the 1/4" section. You may need to use a screw driver and a hammer.

Once that part is out all of the tension will be off the ring and its much easier to remove.

Again BE CAREFUL not to saw into the mount.

matty

iTrader: (54)

That ring Needs to come out if your buy the Energy supsension intersts, correct ?

-matt

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Yes. Same thing as the LCA Bushings.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

thats may be easier. i did not have a hack saw at the time....its still a pain

motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

Dubbya-completely brilliant! haha I wouyld so do that except I just found a place taht will press mine in and out for about 10 bucks so ya not worth my effort. Nice idea tho. so what do you all think about those mounts matty gave us? i need to order some mounts asap so i need some quick input. thanks guys

matty

iTrader: (54)

Those are ES Bushings like everyone buys. Just liike Cattman sells

-matt

motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

Oh sweet, now set meaning all 3? this almost sounds too good to be true

Puppetmaster

iTrader: (48)

Carson and Matty are talking about the same thing: Energy Suspension Polyurethane Motor Mount Inserts.

They come in sets of 2 and you can get em from Energy directly, or from Cattman or Sport Compact Only. Its just slight variations in the price and shipping times.

motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

Well its been decided then, suspension.com is the winner, i'll give them a call in the morning and go from there, thanks everyone you've just saved me alot of time and a LOT of money, i was about to spend like 85 a peice

motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

Just thought I'd show how amazing my motor mounts look

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Ok so the ES kit contains 2 poly inserts? If I'm not mistaken, our engine uses 4 mounts: left/right/front/back. So basically you'd need to get 2 kits to replace the oem rubber inserts in each mounts, yes? I mean, might as well replace them all while you are doing the work. How about the transmission mount, I don't see anything from ES. What did you guys do with your torn-up tranny mount?

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

I would just fill the others in if you are worried about it. I only got the front and rear because that is the way the motor tires to rock on heavy acceleration. I don't think their is an after market option for the passenger side mount and the tranny mount. I have been very happy with just the results of the front and rear being replaced.

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Those are what my original ones looked like at about 170,000 miles. The metal sleeves just fell out.

matty

iTrader: (54)

Where is the "ring" that needs to be cut out ??

-matt

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

If you are looking at the mount you will see a hole or two around the mount about as big as a dime...this gives you access to the ring. When looking at it the first time it looks like something that does not need to come out. But it does. Its the metal ring that is closest to the rubber on the motor mount.

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Here is a better pic where you can see some slight rust on the "ring".

matty

iTrader: (54)

OHH>..its the entire RING around the mount ??

-matt

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

The red circle is the ring and the green is the metal mount that you would not want to cut into if you follow my proceedure above.

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Fill em with Flexane.

matty

iTrader: (54)

Whered you get those from ???

-matt

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

search for "filling motor mounts" I started a thread on that a while back but there is useful info, including where to get the urethane and which one to get. I got it from Mcmaster Carr. It was like 26 bucks for one mix. It was more than plenty for the two mounts. Probably could have come close to doing all four, but I did not want to do the other two anyway.

motorheadwannab

iTrader: (1)

cardana- I'm just going to get new ones from ES I don't trust myself filling those huge holes...if thats what you meant by filling them. I was going to pull my other mounts off (left/right) but can't figure out how the heck i'm supossed to get the bolts off the motor there's no room and they are on there good, i dowsed them with PB so we'll see later but any suggestions? Would you mind giving us that link to your thread, should make everyones life easier. How hard was it to fill your mounts and what is flexane???
Sorry for all the newbie questions I just want to do this right. Thanks

Jime

iTrader: (10)

Flexane is made by Devcon in 80 and 94 Shore hardness. I used 94 its the stiffest. Its a 2 part epoxy type urethane. I just put tape over one side and filled the other, pretty simple, almost Jime proof.

Here is a couple of links on the subject.

http://www.geocities.com/ae82power/umounts.html
http://importnut.net/motormount.htm

sharkulator

iTrader: (5)

I bought the inserts from Cattmann (great price AND ship time). Now I just need to find someone around here who can press them in for me

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....g+motor+mounts

^^thats it.

Air tools makes taking the motor mounts out much easier. When you do this make sure the ENGINE IS SUPPORTED. You have to drop the cross member. To get the front one out it has a bolt thru it with a nut on the other side...put a box end on the nut and hit it with some air on the gun. For the rear one take the driver side wheel off. Then take the splash guard off, the one that covers the tranny in the wheel well (not the fender liner). After you do that you will have a clear shot at the rear motor mount. You will need a bunch of extensions, and if you have 1/2" stuff I would recomend that (I broke a 3/8ths extension when I was doing this). For the rear one the nut is welded on the other side so there is not a need for another wrench. Make sure you are on the bolt good and then hit it with air. Once you have them loose most likley the bolts will not come right out because the weight of the engine is on them, so whe I did was put my floor jack where the engine and tranny meet with a 2x4 between the jack and metal. Then play with the jack until you release the tension binding the bolts. After you have done this you can drop the cross member, but I recomend leaving the jack in that same spot since the engine is no only being held in by the two side mounts. Have fun putting everything back together once you are done...its lots of fun

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

also I should add that a center punch, hammer and pickle fork came in handy when taking the bolts out.

Dubbya

iTrader: (16)

Im pretty sure you can just drop the cross member with out supporting the engine per Tilley. You can get to the rear motor mount from under the car pretty easy too. I watched my mechanic do this on my car. Basically just unbolted the mounts from the engine then dropped the cross member. Put on new mounts and replaced the cross member. When he was putting the cross member back up he did need to use a jack to align everything.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

yes the motor will stay in there with just the side mounts, I know because these are the only things holding my engine in when doing my motor swap. But when you are working under the car trying to unbolt things I would leave a jack under it. When the motor is in by just the side mounts it sags and just does not feel that sturdy. I personally would not work under the engine if it was only held in by side mounts.