Anybody ever done a timing chain??
Anybody ever done a timing chain??
Just curious how many people on here have actually done it themselves. My poor max was leakin oil like crazy and the shop said it was the timing cover gasket...quoted at $1700. I decided to do it myself for about $300 lol. I'm already about 60% done so don't try and warn me off i'm already aware of how deep my hole is lol. Ya I'm doin it the hard way too, engine in the car
So far I've decided to replace
-all gaskets
-all 3 timing chains
-motor mount (seeing as my old ones are destroyed)
-lower oil pan
And i'm thinking of racing headers/ypipe and underdrive pulley while i'm in there...what do ya guys think??
So far I've decided to replace-all gaskets
-all 3 timing chains
-motor mount (seeing as my old ones are destroyed)
-lower oil pan
And i'm thinking of racing headers/ypipe and underdrive pulley while i'm in there...what do ya guys think??
Originally Posted by motorheadwannab
Just curious how many people on here have actually done it themselves. My poor max was leakin oil like crazy and the shop said it was the timing cover gasket...quoted at $1700. I decided to do it myself for about $300 lol. I'm already about 60% done so don't try and warn me off i'm already aware of how deep my hole is lol. Ya I'm doin it the hard way too, engine in the car So far I've decided to replace
-all gaskets
-all 3 timing chains
-motor mount (seeing as my old ones are destroyed)
-lower oil pan
And i'm thinking of racing headers/ypipe and underdrive pulley while i'm in there...what do ya guys think??
So far I've decided to replace-all gaskets
-all 3 timing chains
-motor mount (seeing as my old ones are destroyed)
-lower oil pan
And i'm thinking of racing headers/ypipe and underdrive pulley while i'm in there...what do ya guys think??
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...5&postcount=30
Originally Posted by nismology
Here are a few things that should speed up the process. I just got finished up working in that area.
1. You don't have to support the motor when you remove the x-member to take off the upper pan. The two side mounts, assuming they are in place properly, will support the weight of the motor/tranny easily. Tilley alerted me to this method, and i would do it again.
2. When you are done removing the upper oil pan, reinstall the x-member. Then remove the right side motor mount to remove the timing cover. The x-member and tranny mount will support the tranny/motor easily.
3. The most efficient way to pry the timing cover off is to pry up against the oil pump. This is by far > those two stupid notches at the top.
4. If you haven't done so already, get the RTV sealant that comes in the can. Makes applications much much much easier.
5. When you remove the oil pan, don't remove the a/c compressor bracket completely. Just remove the two lower bolts so you can remove the oil pan, but leave the two upper bolts that attach to the block on. The reason i say this is because when you are going to put the timing cover back on without disturbing the sealant, you'll need ALL the space you can get. I did this by doing these two things:
A. Remove the hose that comes from the power steering reservoir and goes to the power steering cooler. This will allow you to swing the reservoir and the big hose that's attached to it completely out of the way.
B. Put the a/c compressor back up on its bracket. The will move the a/c line out of the way to give you sufficient room.
6. Get this if you haven't already.http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouh....&item_no=80646
7. I found a push pin/thumb tack to be very effective when cleaning out the grooves on the timing cover and oil pans.
8. Brake parts cleaner is your friend.
Hope this helps.
P.S. Oh yea, please use new o-rings that go in between the oil pan and oil pump and/or engine block. You don't want to leave ANY chance for oil pressure to be bled off.
P.P.S. If the main chain jumped teeth, chances are the secondaries have as well. This is what happened on my father's motor so i'd check them to make sure. The light colored links on the secondaries are supposed to line up with the marks on the secondary sprockets (i'm sure you already know this
). But in case they don't, just count the number of links from the mark on one sprocket to the other sprocket. Should be 12 links. As long as there are 12 links from one to the other don't worry about removing the sprockets and realigning the chains.
1. You don't have to support the motor when you remove the x-member to take off the upper pan. The two side mounts, assuming they are in place properly, will support the weight of the motor/tranny easily. Tilley alerted me to this method, and i would do it again.
2. When you are done removing the upper oil pan, reinstall the x-member. Then remove the right side motor mount to remove the timing cover. The x-member and tranny mount will support the tranny/motor easily.
3. The most efficient way to pry the timing cover off is to pry up against the oil pump. This is by far > those two stupid notches at the top.
4. If you haven't done so already, get the RTV sealant that comes in the can. Makes applications much much much easier.
5. When you remove the oil pan, don't remove the a/c compressor bracket completely. Just remove the two lower bolts so you can remove the oil pan, but leave the two upper bolts that attach to the block on. The reason i say this is because when you are going to put the timing cover back on without disturbing the sealant, you'll need ALL the space you can get. I did this by doing these two things:
A. Remove the hose that comes from the power steering reservoir and goes to the power steering cooler. This will allow you to swing the reservoir and the big hose that's attached to it completely out of the way.
B. Put the a/c compressor back up on its bracket. The will move the a/c line out of the way to give you sufficient room.
6. Get this if you haven't already.http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouh....&item_no=80646
7. I found a push pin/thumb tack to be very effective when cleaning out the grooves on the timing cover and oil pans.
8. Brake parts cleaner is your friend.
Hope this helps.
P.S. Oh yea, please use new o-rings that go in between the oil pan and oil pump and/or engine block. You don't want to leave ANY chance for oil pressure to be bled off.
P.P.S. If the main chain jumped teeth, chances are the secondaries have as well. This is what happened on my father's motor so i'd check them to make sure. The light colored links on the secondaries are supposed to line up with the marks on the secondary sprockets (i'm sure you already know this
). But in case they don't, just count the number of links from the mark on one sprocket to the other sprocket. Should be 12 links. As long as there are 12 links from one to the other don't worry about removing the sprockets and realigning the chains.
Originally Posted by MAXRB8
"last the life of the car" come on think about it! They don't all live the same lives of duration
Originally Posted by nismology
He means they are supposed to outlast the motor/body. And he's right.
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
true...but i bet he figured since he had to pull the cover to replace the gasket...y not do the chains.....i would have only done the tensioner or atleast inspected the chains to make sure they were in good shape before spending money on them
Originally Posted by nismology
There's no advantage to newer chains except that they're, well, newer. I removed the timing chain from my dad's old VQ with 276k+ on the clock that had overheated to boot and the timing chain was perfectly fine.
Nice replys guys. nismology thanks for that, ya i would do that as you stated by not needing to support the engine exept well my motor mounts are destroyed and idk if i trust them lol. I ordered a timing chain set from checkers, they weren't sure what came in the set so for all I know it comes with the tensioner, but if not i will get one cause like you guys said i might as well while i'm in there.
I am doin the chains cause it ended up bein about 100 bucks for the chains and i'd rather just replace them while i'm in there rather than worry about it later.
I am doin the chains cause it ended up bein about 100 bucks for the chains and i'd rather just replace them while i'm in there rather than worry about it later.
100% chingon
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,003
[QUOTE=motorheadwannab]Just curious how many people on here have actually done it themselves. My poor max was leakin oil like crazy and the shop said it was the timing cover gasket...quoted at $1700. I decided to do it myself for about $300 lol. I'm already about 60% done so don't try and warn me off i'm already aware of how deep my hole is lol. Ya I'm doin it the hard way too, engine in the car.
$1700? Argh!
I was charged $590 here in Monterrey but that included a new strut and repairing the PS pump, so I think the cost of fixing the (three different) oil leaks came to about $390. (Engine-out job)
The car was pissing oil and PS fluid before; now, it's dry. I didn't believe it could actually be done in the car. What have you done, put the unit on a jack and removed the mount(s) so the motor can be lifted enough? Then there's all the lines and sensors... I hope you are taking plenty of PICS and NOTES because it would make a great STICKY!
$1700? Argh!
I was charged $590 here in Monterrey but that included a new strut and repairing the PS pump, so I think the cost of fixing the (three different) oil leaks came to about $390. (Engine-out job)The car was pissing oil and PS fluid before; now, it's dry. I didn't believe it could actually be done in the car. What have you done, put the unit on a jack and removed the mount(s) so the motor can be lifted enough? Then there's all the lines and sensors... I hope you are taking plenty of PICS and NOTES because it would make a great STICKY!
Originally Posted by clive
$1700? Argh! I was charged $590 here in Monterrey but that included a new strut and repairing the PS pump, so I think the cost of fixing the (three different) oil leaks came to about $390. (Engine-out job)
The car was pissing oil and PS fluid before; now, it's dry. I didn't believe it could actually be done in the car. What have you done, put the unit on a jack and removed the mount(s) so the motor can be lifted enough? Then there's all the lines and sensors... I hope you are taking plenty of PICS and NOTES because it would make a great STICKY!
I was charged $590 here in Monterrey but that included a new strut and repairing the PS pump, so I think the cost of fixing the (three different) oil leaks came to about $390. (Engine-out job)The car was pissing oil and PS fluid before; now, it's dry. I didn't believe it could actually be done in the car. What have you done, put the unit on a jack and removed the mount(s) so the motor can be lifted enough? Then there's all the lines and sensors... I hope you are taking plenty of PICS and NOTES because it would make a great STICKY!
I wish i had have taken pictures I didn't even think abuot it till you just said it. that would make a great sticky, l could to the assembly lol. Man you got a smokin deal on that work i called 3 shops and all 3 were within $100 of each other so ya i'm definitely jealous. It obviously can be done in the car seeing as nismology has done it and I have mine about half way done right now...
Originally Posted by nismology
When i did it i didn't have to be lifted at all. See post #3 for a cliff notes version of what had to be done. If you have detailed questions, i can answer those too.
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i have done it and let me tell you that is is easier to drop the motor out and then do the work because there is no way there is enough room to work in the engine bay unless your hands are the size of a 6 year old. the nissan book tells you to lower one side of the eninge but that is bs also.
unfortunately that isn't an option at the current time becasue I don't have an engine hoist and the guy I was going to borrow one from is doin a job on a honda right now so ya. the Haynes manual tells all how to do it motor in so we'll see, i'll be sure to let ya know if i do end up dropin the motor, hopefully i don't HAVE to even tho it would be easier i'm sure.
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
i have done it and let me tell you that is is easier to drop the motor out and then do the work because there is no way there is enough room to work in the engine bay unless your hands are the size of a 6 year old. the nissan book tells you to lower one side of the eninge but that is bs also.
Originally Posted by motorheadwannab
unfortunately that isn't an option at the current time becasue I don't have an engine hoist and the guy I was going to borrow one from is doin a job on a honda right now so ya. the Haynes manual tells all how to do it motor in so we'll see, i'll be sure to let ya know if i do end up dropin the motor, hopefully i don't HAVE to even tho it would be easier i'm sure.
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Originally Posted by nismology
It is completely possible and has nothing to do with hand size. To make room you have to remove the hose that goes from the power steering reservoir to the cooler and swing the reservoir and pressure hose completely out of the way. You also have to leave the a/c bracket connected to the block so you attach the compressor to the bracket. This lifts the a/c line out of the way. It just takes patience. Also, i would recomment practicing putting the cover on WITHOUT RTV sealant until you get it down pat. This is so when there IS sealant on the cover, you can install it without disturbing the sealant at all. It's possible, i've done it.
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
fine whatever you say. i am just saying from experience. its like doing a header install on a max.
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dude quit getting all butt-hurt about. and i never said i wasnt able to do it with the eninge in the car. i said it is easier to do it with the engine out of the car. maybe that is why i brought up the header install on a max. it is easier to install headers with the engine out of the car but you can still do it with the engine in the car. the same goes here with the timing chain.
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
dude quit getting all butt-hurt about. and i never said i wasnt able to do it with the eninge in the car. i said it is easier to do it with the engine out of the car. maybe that is why i brought up the header install on a max. it is easier to install headers with the engine out of the car but you can still do it with the engine in the car. the same goes here with the timing chain.
That's not the point of this thread. It would be harder to remove the motor and do it than to just keep the motor in and do it. If you have nothing to offer to the thread at hand, move on.
Originally Posted by matty
Now Now children. Learn to play nice, or you wont be playing at all
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i have nothing to offer to the thread? hat bs. and what do you have to offer? "remove the hose that goes from the power steering reservoir to the cooler and swing the reservoir and pressure hose completely out of the way. You also have to leave the a/c bracket connected to the block so you attach the compressor to the bracket." yeah like that info will help the dude out. and it is not harder to remove the motor unless you are completly retartde adn dont know what the hell you are doing. this job pays 8.5 hours at nissan. to drop a motor its takes 1.5-2 hours tops. then the most you would messs around with the timing chain and the cover and the tensioner is about 1 hour to 1.5 hours. and then 1.5-2 hours to put the motor back in. do the math.
also dont for get to remove the upper oil pan as well because there is 2 bolts that go into the timing cover from there and hold it.
also dont for get to remove the upper oil pan as well because there is 2 bolts that go into the timing cover from there and hold it.
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
i have nothing to offer to the thread? hat bs. and what do you have to offer? "remove the hose that goes from the power steering reservoir to the cooler and swing the reservoir and pressure hose completely out of the way. You also have to leave the a/c bracket connected to the block so you attach the compressor to the bracket." yeah like that info will help the dude out. and it is not harder to remove the motor unless you are completly retartde adn dont know what the hell you are doing. this job pays 8.5 hours at nissan. to drop a motor its takes 1.5-2 hours tops. then the most you would messs around with the timing chain and the cover and the tensioner is about 1 hour to 1.5 hours. and then 1.5-2 hours to put the motor back in. do the math.
1. I don't care that you work at a nissan dealership. You still lack credibility as far as i'm concerned because of your attitude.
2. The fact that i don't work at a dealer (i might be hired at one soon FWIW) doesn't make me any less knowledgeable on this subject matter.
3. The man doesn't have a lift and will most likely be working alone.
4. The information i gave him was relevant based on my experience doing it with the motor in the car.
5. You offered nothing but "it's easier with the motor out." Alot of things are easier with the motor out. But that's not the point. Compare what i posted in post #3 to anything that you've said so far and i've clearly been more helpful. You just came in here with your classic holier-than-thou attitude and suggested something that was completely irrelevant.
also dont for get to remove the upper oil pan as well because there is 2 bolts that go into the timing cover from there and hold it.
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dude you are like a freaking brick wall. there is no way to get a point across to you at all. if you would think about it, if i work at a dealership i get paid flat rate. now wouldnt that tell you that i do things the easier way and the way that takes less time or i wouldnt do the job in that amount of time?
now think about it, you still hav to drop the motor down or liek the book says hang it down on the passengers side. there is not enough room to be working on it because the frame and the engine are very close to each other. yes you can work on the top when you remove the mount and the power steering but you still got thigns like the ac to deal with and the alternator which when you unbolt then the only way they can go out from the engine bay is down unless you remove the radiator and the fan assembly. then you can take the ac compressor out through the top which lets you move it so the ac line isnt in the way. all i am saying is that to save the guy time and headeaches, droppng the engine is the way to go. since you have to lower one side anyway how hard is to to unbolt the other mount and drop the whole thing out. you still remove the y-pipe and the center member so you can remove the upper oil pan so all that is left is that one mount on the tranny.
now think about it, you still hav to drop the motor down or liek the book says hang it down on the passengers side. there is not enough room to be working on it because the frame and the engine are very close to each other. yes you can work on the top when you remove the mount and the power steering but you still got thigns like the ac to deal with and the alternator which when you unbolt then the only way they can go out from the engine bay is down unless you remove the radiator and the fan assembly. then you can take the ac compressor out through the top which lets you move it so the ac line isnt in the way. all i am saying is that to save the guy time and headeaches, droppng the engine is the way to go. since you have to lower one side anyway how hard is to to unbolt the other mount and drop the whole thing out. you still remove the y-pipe and the center member so you can remove the upper oil pan so all that is left is that one mount on the tranny.
You seem to be forgetting a few key things. It's not as easy for him to remove the motor as it is for you.
1. You've done it before.
2. You have a lift.
3. You have an engine hoist.
Why is that so hard for you to understand??
I don't know what book you're talking about, but the FSM says nothing about lowering the motor. If i can do it, anyone can.
It seems you lack the ability to look at things from other people's perspectives (something that is normally developed at a very young age). Just because you do things a certain way doesn't mean others are idiots for not doing it that way.
IBhesayshenevercalledanyoneanidioteventhoughithasb eenimpliedinthisthreadandothers
1. You've done it before.
2. You have a lift.
3. You have an engine hoist.
Why is that so hard for you to understand??
I don't know what book you're talking about, but the FSM says nothing about lowering the motor. If i can do it, anyone can.
It seems you lack the ability to look at things from other people's perspectives (something that is normally developed at a very young age). Just because you do things a certain way doesn't mean others are idiots for not doing it that way.
IBhesayshenevercalledanyoneanidioteventhoughithasb eenimpliedinthisthreadandothers
Haha alright guys time to take it outback...I have all my goodies off right now and i can see the chain and all that so i'll prolly have some further questions for you all but until then...get some boxing gloves haha just messin guys, you all have been helpful, I took everything off, left no bracket or compressor so idk we'll see how that works and like stated before I have no hoist so i'm just doin what I can do. Thanks
I would attach the bracket to the block and put the compressor back on. Otherwise, the a/c line will be in the way and you won't have enough room to reinstall the cover. Any other issues, let me know.
I havn't taken too much time to think about it, but how will putting somthing back on give me more room to reinstall the cover??? I'm just goin off haynes manual and it said take it all off but I mean if you're sayin put it back on I guess I can take a look but I still don't understand lol
Originally Posted by motorheadwannab
I havn't taken too much time to think about it, but how will putting somthing back on give me more room to reinstall the cover??? I'm just goin off haynes manual and it said take it all off but I mean if you're sayin put it back on I guess I can take a look but I still don't understand lol