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Getting 12V from Fuse Box..HELP !!

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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 10:38 PM
  #1  
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Getting 12V from Fuse Box..HELP !!

Well ill finally be putting in my innovate wideband tomorrow and I really dont want to be powering up the thing using the cig lighter cause everyone tells me that its a weak signal for the wideband and will cut out most likely up in the higher revs. And I have alot of other things running off the Cig lighter so I would like to finally learn how to tap a 12V source off the Fuse box.

Well I have no idea how to get a 12V source out of the Fuse panal under the dash... If anyone has any experience with this, I would appreciate it...It has to be a 12V switched source, Ignition so it only comes on when the ignition is turned on and it sais it needs a fuse of a minumum of at least 5A.

Im really not a wireing buff, so bare with me here.

Thanks

-matt
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 04:33 AM
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depending on the options u have there may be some spare unused fuses in the box...and autozone or pepboys sells a fuse with a wire comming off of it to hook up a new accessory to taht spare fuse spot...if u have any
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 06:01 AM
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I would just take the steering wheel trim off and tap the ignition wire. (See remote start/alarm wiring colors in the audo/video forum stickies). I'm not real familiar with the Innovate but my Zeitronix has a built in resettable fuse so you can wire it straight to a source and not worry about using a fused source.
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 01:26 PM
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Anyone else ??

-matt
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 02:57 PM
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fuse taps, i hate them, but they work. sometimes they separate the contacts in the fuse panel since you are sticking more metal in there. this cause some problem when you remove the accesory, so its best to leave the little tap in the panel.



i like these ones better but they take up so much space:

they are called add a circuit

or you can get a fuse pigtail. i used to make them with a bit of wire and a regular fuse:
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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pull your map light / sunroof controlls out and hard wire it there. That is what I did and it works great.
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by texasluva
pull your map light / sunroof controlls out and hard wire it there. That is what I did and it works great.
Not for running a wide band

-matt
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 05:06 PM
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definatly dont use t Taps for things that require 16 gauge and below wiring as it is not smart running i high current though t taps. I would take an ignition wire from underneath the dash


12volts wht/red - wht/pur + ignition harness (Colors Change at Plug)Either will work
Starter blk/yel - blk/wht + ignition harness
Second Starter grn/blk - red/blu + ignition harness
Ignition blk/wht - blk/red + ignition harness

12 volts will give you a contsant 12 volts whether your car is on or off.
Ignition will turn it on when the car is started or with the ON position And off when selected to off
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 06:03 PM
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Yea I would need an Ignition source...

-matt
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
fuse taps, i hate them, but they work. sometimes they separate the contacts in the fuse panel since you are sticking more metal in there. this cause some problem when you remove the accesory, so its best to leave the little tap in the panel.



i like these ones better but they take up so much space:

they are called add a circuit

or you can get a fuse pigtail. i used to make them with a bit of wire and a regular fuse:

the add-a-circuit or pigtail is what i had i mind
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 06:44 PM
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Yea Im going to pick some up them tomorrow with a tester

-matt
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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im pretty sure the fuse panel is labled
acc on with key but not while starting
bat hot at all times
ign on with key and while starting
Old Jan 10, 2006 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by JSutter
im pretty sure the fuse panel is labled
acc on with key but not while starting
bat hot at all times
ign on with key and while starting
how did u make the pigtail ones....just solder(spelling) wire to the one end
Old Jan 12, 2006 | 01:28 PM
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take a dremel and remove some plastic on the side close to the front edge. do it right down to the metal part that sort of sticks out next to the number. then solder a wire on there. then stick the side with the wire on it on the hot side of the fuse box. this way if the fuse blows to the original circuit, your new one will still work. only down side is if your fuse blows you need to make a new one and hook the wire back up. but its very cheap and effective. you can make extras and keep the handy. i think i have one in the garage i can take a pic of if you dont understand.
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