Alrighty so I'm fed up with my mechanic, and I've decided to change my Drivers-side Axle myself. (previous one has a blown strut boot and is near failing)

So far I know that i will have to drain the trans fluid. I know the procedure for the axle change, but dont know what type of ATF to use. I figure since im draining it now, might as well get the rest of it changed.... I just dont know exactly how to go about the ATF flush. Any tips you guys have are appreciated!

 

There is plenty of info in the Fluids and Lubricants section, on both the fluid to use and how to do the flush.

Cliffs: Dexron III or compatible, you can just drain the fluid via the tranny pan drain bolt and refill with fresh fluid (4 qts or so).

 

gracias, thats pretty much all i needed to know. Whats the estimate on time to just drain fluid, change axle, fill up, and go? Only reason is I dont want to be up all night doing it, when i could have just waited until tomorrow afternoon to start..

 

Depends on you, and if you need any speical tools. I haven't done an axle on a maxima yet, but i did it on the camry. Assuming that you have all parts that you need. taking off the wheel would take 2-5 mins, loosing the control arm so you can just pull the strut to 1 side about 15 mins. Can be on there pretty tought. Then pull the axle right out, mines didn't leak fluid at all. Put back everything together. Should take 1-2 hours with someone knowing what to do and having the right tools really does save a ton of time.

If you wanted to do a little quick flush, draining fluid can take anywhere between 5 mins to 1 hour depending on how much you wanted drained. Then filling the fluid up should take a matter of minutes.

 

Thanks! Im heading out to get a 36mm socket in a bit, will let you know how it went...

 

Hey let me know the procedures and how it goes. I have to replace both half shaft since the boots are torn on both side and is making lots of noise when I turn. Thx

 

Well i got the socket, got the hub nut off, all that good stuff , but i CANT move the strut mount bolts... i need PB, and ive got no car to get it until my mom gets home in 25 minutes.... fun stuff...

 

I have failed. I couldnt get either bolt anything close to resembling loose, I broke a ratchet, rounded off the top bolt, ended up trying to take my strut out to move the knuckle, couldnt get it far enough without breaking SOMETHING, screwed up the threads on the (old) axle so i can't replace the axle nut..... Yeah f---ed it up bigtime. I'm taking it to another mechanic tomorrow....My question is should i have it towed (due to lack of axle nut) or is it safe to drive for the 5 miles it would be to the garage.... Thanks for the help...

= me

 

Tow it, you already got yourself in enough trouble with this.

 

There is no way you can drive it without an axle nut... are you crazy

Damn dude - time for some impact tools... I've heard of people having trouble with the axle nut, but never with the strut/knuckle bolts...

 

Well lets say that it was an impossibility and i had to drive the car there... What hazards would be present? (i just gotta know, im so mad at myself right now)

 

+1 on the air tools they come in very handy. ive stripped so many bolts with just sheer torque from a long breaker bar but the impact gun just brok em loose in no time......DONT DRIVE THE CAR unless i get to video tape it and laugh my **** off.....j/k bye bye tire and everything connected to it......

 

Really??? I figure the hub is still connected to the car with both the LCA and the shock assembly...

 

so let me get this straight the bolt for the struts are stripped and the nut for the axle is stripped also?

Sears sell a kit for stripped bolts. Its sockets that have sharp blades on the inside designed to grab any part of the bolt and take it off.

I recommend a lot of PB blaster or WD-40. A 3 foot brake bar did the job lovely for me. Dont forget you can use the nut on the other side of the bolt. Try to losen that in order to get the bolt off.

 

One of the bolts for the struts is rounded off, the other one i havent touched yet (thank god), I broke my ratchet trying to do the other side (17mm).

I find it ironic that everyone has trouble with the axle hub nut, but not these, yet I have the exact opposite, The hub came off after 2 seconds of leaning on my 4 foot cheater bar on the gigantor ratchet..

I went through a half-can of PB blaster on the nut/bolt assembly, after 10 mins i tried it, no luck, same after 30. Just ended up rounding it off and getting some in my eyes.

I suppose i will head to sears and check their kit out, but i get the feeling that 1) my mechanic will be able to do it anyway, and 2) I'll just end up breaking whatever i use with the strip kit trying to get them off.

What did I learn? No matter how much you know, If poorly equipped, a fun afternoon can turn into a sh!tty night very fast.

 

Yes then you'll definately need the kit from sears.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...+Taps+%26+Dies

So pretty much your stuck with just a stripped strut bolt, and thats it?

If so I'd wait get the part you need from sears tommorow and get off that last strut bolt, because after that you're home free, you just have to punch out the axle, and then yank.

 

well that price really sucks... im out of money after the ATF and socket and PB blaster from today.... but 50 bucks + 10 for a breaker bar i suppose is worth saving 100 to have the shop do it.

 

I broke that kit from Sears trying to remove my stripped strut / knuckle nut Seriously, I guess I torqued the breaker bar too much and *CLUNK*, the thing was split.

Your best bet is to borrow the mechanics impact gun.

 

well that sucks. All i need to do is get those damn nuts off, if i can do that im done. I guess i'll try that kit, and if it fails go to the mechanic. I wish i still worked at lexus... Free air tools and lifts ftw...

 

Damn - 50 bucks is approaching *cheap* electric impact gun territory... I say get it done at the shop, and take it as a lesson learned. No point messing' around with it now.

I gotta get me one of those cordless impacts There was a nice thread on them (impacts in general) in the General Forum not too long ago - everyone who hasn't seen it should go read it.

 

Yeah I popped in there... 50 is a bit steep for a kit that I will probably use 2 or 3 times in the life of the car... I guess ill get it done somewhere else. Getting a tow is gonna be embarassing, I'm the car guy, i dont screw stuff up like that.... Oh well, it IS a lesson learned, and it just makes me realize why air tools were invented.

 

They have smaller sets at sears. Thats a full set 13 peices. Pending on what size you need, you might get the smaller set. i think 7-8 peices for 29.99$

Overall it shouldn't be too hard to get off. Maybe try a power tool or something like said above, not really a electric impact, but a power took.

I just picked up my 1/2 in impact gun, 3/8in impact wrench and sockets both both. Cost me roughly $250. All craftsmen. You rachet broke and not the socket? Thats kinda a first.

 

Yeah the little pin inside the ratchet bent and broke, the top came off the ratchet, and the whole ratcheting assembly dropped about a mm below the handle level. Now depending on how i hold it, it locks in either direction, but too much torque and itll just snap around. I just threw it out....

 

I know the feeling working on your car and running out of money and needing to buy more parts.

I want to say those bolts run about $3-$8 a the dealership, or you may even be able to get it from home depot for $1-$3. The only thing is how to brake this bolt off. I think a torch or grinder would be the answer, but I dont know if you have any laying around or know anyone that has one.

I dont think a hammer would work in this case, the bolt is way too thick and strong. If you have a drill, maybe the bolt can be driller out

maybe autozone may have a tool (you can rent) that can get the bolt off. But you should be able to put everything back together and still drive the car. (assuming there is ATF in the car still)

 

I just changed out my passenger side strut, mount and bearing last week and had the same prob with those strut nuts. Rounded the bottom one slightly before busting the socket trying to loosen it with a breaker bar. So I went and bought an impact gun and sockets and went and used my dad's air compressor, and came right off. The right tools makes all the difference, something I've found out time and time again. The strut was completely gone, had no resistance whatsoever. But now I'm gonna have to go back in there change the axle, clicking big time when I turn.

 

Well i would be able to drive it, but the Threads on the axle are screwed up so i cant get the nut back on, and i guess thats a big no-no. I'm just getting it towed today, should only be ~30 dollars, and im going to assist the mechanic so we can get it done in the 25 minutes it should have taken. Either way, i need air tools...

 

I dont know if it was just me, but in doing my suspension I needed no air tools at all. my 3 foot brake bar was more than enough to get the bolts off all my struts/shocks with ease. It could be because my car has seen no winters/salt/snow.

Use anti-seize on the bolts to make it easier next time plus save the threads on the bolts.

Dont worry about the threads on the axle, once you get it loose and off, yo wont need them again.

 

Yeah i know. It just makes it impossible for me to drive the car until i get the new axle in.

What about a nut breaker? Ive seen pictures, and it looks like it just tightens down on the nut until it cracks..... Would one of those work?

Btw my car has seen 11 looooong snowy salty winters, so that might be a factor

 

At this point you'll need some more tools that I'm sure you dont have. For the strut bolt I think it will need to be torched off or cut, and replace the strut bolt that would be the best thing. Probably the same thing for the axle. As long as the nut on the axle isnt stripped or anything you could re-use it with the new axle.

11 winters could do it. Could be a dumb question, but did you pb blaster or wd-40 all the bolts and let it sit before working on the car?

 

MDeezy is pretty much right on it...you've come this far, I guess my pride would not let me take it to a mechanic until I had torched that bish off. I actually never had any issues doing the entire suspension with hand tools...now that I have my compressor...I can't wait till I have to tear it apart again....this weekend.

 

Yeah, I used a LOT of PB on everything, let it sit for 30 mins before respraying, let that sit overnight, I'm going to go try a couple more times before i break down...

if its stripped bad enough maybe i can hammer on a 18mm socket and break it off...

 

Ok you sprayed it down really good.

I say take it to a local pops like auto shop and have some one torch off or grind off the strut bolt, and the axle. Get a new strut bolt for dollars, and as long as the axle nut is fine. You'll be ok install it on the new axle with new threads.

 

Alright ive finally given up. My COA is to get it towed to my family mechanic, have him torch the bolts off, pull the axle, put the new one in, reuse old axle nut (tested it and it threads fine onto the new axle), replace old bolts, go get an alignment (because i know for sure that ive destroyed anything resembling aligned), and see the end of this sh!tstorm.

 

I changed both axles just recently, but I think I did it a little different. I remove the axle nut of course, but then I remove the tie rod off of the spindle, then I loosen the ball joint nut & whack the spindle until it drops then remove the nut completely & swing aside the spindle with strut attached to pull out the axle.

 

that isnt a totally bad idea... What size sockets did you need?

 

No, not at all. There's no alignment issues, nothing.

Remove axle nut = 36mm socket.
Remove tie rod end cotter pin & nut = pliers & I think it was a 17mm socket/wrench.
Remove stabilizer link nut(on top) so you can easily lower the control arm/table once you remove the ball joint = 14mm socket.
Loosen ball joint nut = 18mm? or 19mm? wrench.
Hammer spindle near ball joint to loosen it, then lower it a little to remove nut completely, then pry the control arm/table down & now you can remove the axle from the spindle by moving the spindle out & to the side.

 

Well the cotter pin on the ball joint is proving to be a pain to get out, letting more PB soak in before i go hammer it...

 

You're going through the same pains I did when I did the LCAs.

I had to drill out the cotter pin from the ball-joint. Even the cotter pin from the tie-rod end was rust-seized, but after a lot of fiddling, it came out. The ball-joint pin had basically rust-welded itself in the hole. The quickest thing is to just drill it out.

 

Yeah ive figured that out. i just cut the ends off, i'll worry about getting the rest out after i get that damn nut off. What sized nut is it? my 14mm box end doesnt fit, and its the largest i have. I'd like to know for sure before i go buy the wrong wrench

 

I don't remember (crazy1eye suggests its 18 or 19mm in an earlier post)... you don't have some deep sockets you could use?