Lower Control Arms from eBay?
#1
Lower Control Arms from eBay?
Folks,
Has anyone purchased a pair of LCAs from eBay? See link below. I am deciding whether these are worth the quality of buying and am looking for experiences on which LCAs to buy and which ones to avoid. Also, is this something that can be done on the weekend without minimal effort/frustrations?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Maxim...spagenameZWDVW
Has anyone purchased a pair of LCAs from eBay? See link below. I am deciding whether these are worth the quality of buying and am looking for experiences on which LCAs to buy and which ones to avoid. Also, is this something that can be done on the weekend without minimal effort/frustrations?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Maxim...spagenameZWDVW
#2
I purchased both the passenger and driver side LCAs from the ebay seller bestsuspension. I searched here and others said they are good quality, havent installed mine yet so I cannot say anything about the quality.
#3
let me know how the install goes. I plan on buying within a week and hopefully install them on the weekend when there is no football before the SUper Bowl. Does the quality look sufficient? With 125K miles, if I get 5 years out of them, I'll be happy.
#5
The ones linked are available off a .org member with the SAME name... PM "internetautomar" - there is no "T" at the end, it is not a typo. His name is Brian. He'll get you everything you need. I would recommend replacing the swaybar endlinks when you replace the LCAs as the old/original ones are likely shot and/or will be a pain to get off the old LCAs.
When I did my LCAs, I did the inner/outer tie-rod ends, sway bar bushings, sway bar endlinks and endlink bushings.
Another option is to search for the seller bestsuspension or was it worldsuspension , on Ebay. He sells the entire set of what I mentioned for about 250 shipped (or individual parts too).
When I did my LCAs, I did the inner/outer tie-rod ends, sway bar bushings, sway bar endlinks and endlink bushings.
Another option is to search for the seller bestsuspension or was it worldsuspension , on Ebay. He sells the entire set of what I mentioned for about 250 shipped (or individual parts too).
#6
eBay = good for control arms.....they have all bushings for the control arm and ball joints.....I just replaced my Sway bar end links so those shoulddnt be a problem because i plan on replacing my control arms with ebay onest his spring
#8
Originally Posted by JClaw
If these Ebay control arms come with new bushings and ball joints, I'm sold. I want to do both when I do coilovers this spring.
#9
Originally Posted by njmodi
The ones linked are available off a .org member with the SAME name... PM "internetautomar" - there is no "T" at the end, it is not a typo. His name is Brian. He'll get you everything you need. I would recommend replacing the swaybar endlinks when you replace the LCAs as the old/original ones are likely shot and/or will be a pain to get off the old LCAs.
These are good quality parts on ebay. I bought the LCAs, and inner and outer tie rod ends from him around this time last year. However, if Brian can get you a deal on the same parts, why not support a fellow orger?
#10
Originally Posted by keb1209
These are good quality parts on ebay. I bought the LCAs, and inner and outer tie rod ends from him around this time last year. However, if Brian can get you a deal on the same parts, why not support a fellow orger?
#11
Originally Posted by njmodi
Yup include new ball-joint (With a Zerg (sp?) fitting - sometimes) and bushings. Like I said, the same parts are available right off the org, of seller internetautomar.
arnt our balljoints sealed not requiring the grease fitting
#12
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
arnt our balljoints sealed not requiring the grease fitting
#13
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Originally Posted by njmodi
Yup include new ball-joint (With a Zerg (sp?) fitting - sometimes) and bushings. Like I said, the same parts are available right off the org, of seller internetautomar.
#15
that's great news about the bushings as well. Are these poly-urethane or rubber? I'd hate to get a much harsher ride that the poly-u gives. Looking for a step near or above stock regarding the bushings. Thanx for the tips. I'll pay Brian a visit.
#16
Originally Posted by petemo95se
that's great news about the bushings as well. Are these poly-urethane or rubber? I'd hate to get a much harsher ride that the poly-u gives. Looking for a step near or above stock regarding the bushings. Thanx for the tips. I'll pay Brian a visit.
#18
I've got about 15k miles on my two LCA's from Bestsuspension on Ebay. They are working great, and far cheaper than dealer stock. I'd buy them again...though I did get nervous when I started the same thread and someone replied that they broke a balljoint 2 weeks after getting the same LCA's installed. Everyone else's responses were positive though so I took the risk and am glad I did.
#19
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1
1 Lower Control Arm (Left) complete OE K9818L, 1 lower Control Arm (right) complete OE K9818R for Nissan Maxima 1995-99, Infiniti I30 94-99, includes bushings and ball joint, 2 Inner Tie rod end OE EV352, 2 Outer Tie rod end OE ES3438, 2 Sway bar link K90126
1 Lower Control Arm (Left) complete OE K9818L, 1 lower Control Arm (right) complete OE K9818R for Nissan Maxima 1995-99, Infiniti I30 94-99, includes bushings and ball joint, 2 Inner Tie rod end OE EV352, 2 Outer Tie rod end OE ES3438, 2 Sway bar link K90126
#23
does it makes sense to replace the tie-rods while the suspension is in pieces? Has anyone changed their tie-rods? And what was the effort involved with doing so? Also, what special tools are required to change the tie-rod ends?
#26
Originally Posted by petemo95se
does it makes sense to replace the tie-rods while the suspension is in pieces? Has anyone changed their tie-rods? And what was the effort involved with doing so? Also, what special tools are required to change the tie-rod ends?
Other than that, it's just standard wrenches, pliers, etc. I would highly recommend impact tools - not "required", but it will make things a lot easier.
There is one nut on the LCA pin link that is about 23mm - so we just used a big-a$$ adjustable wrench for that...
Look up orger "nick" and look as his homepage (linked to his profile). We did my car together and he did a writeup and posted it on his website. It includes tie-rods and LCAs.
Obviously you'll need an alignment.
#27
i bought these parts about a year ago. I got a balljoint with a grease fitting and one that was completely sealed. The sealed joint although still good the rubber is starting to crack so I am going to replace both balljoints with MOOG. Id ask for ones with grease fittings they definately help in prolonging life. I AM DROPPED 2.2" also
#28
when i bought these ebay control arms i've been told that these the ball joint s wont last longer than 10,000 miles... however i have these installed since the end of the summer and put about 15k on them and there are no problems.... quality seems as good as OEM.
#30
Originally Posted by 96ItaliaSE
even if you buy everything and you press in new MoOg balljoints or other high quality its worth it. When i got my arms I looked at the balljoints and new right off the bat they were cheap
#31
me I think would be fine on a stock maxima. However if you are dropped as low as I am , and you know the extra stress it puts on your front end parts Id be a little leary. Everything looked great, but the balljoints are kinda ...eh. Buying Moog or even a Japanese high quality balljoint and pressing it in rather than running what the guy gave you would defintaley be superior. Then again maybe I got a bad balljoint on one. The the drivers side arm has 10k on it and look and acts like it was brand new. The passenger side looks and acts new however the rubber boot has started to rip. Then it will contaminate and wreck the balljoint.
draw your own conclusions I guess
draw your own conclusions I guess
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