achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

i'm thinking of upgrading my brakes but im kind of on a budget, does anyone have a sugg the max is just a daily driver however the FL drivers suck out here and i go from 80 to like 50 in a split second on the highway i once had to vere into the shoulder to slow down to prevent hitting the guy in frotn of me and i wans't tailgaiting him was like 15 feet behind and he jsut jammed on his brakesbut anyways this happens too mucbh out here were i need to stop from 80 to nothing in a split second



anyone have a sugg?? i was think ebc pads, do pads really make a diff

and what is the diff btw crossed drilled and slotted

and is it necc to get them both crossed drilled and slotted plus does any brand matter

if anyone has this setup give me ur opp i think i can only afford to upgradfe the front i have new hawk pads i think on the rear??

any sugg would help b/c i want a noticable diff in stopping without paying a fortune

njmodi

iTrader: (4)

Being behind 15 ft at 80mph is tailgating...

FYI @ 80mph you are moving at 117.33 feet per second

So if you are 15 feet behind - thats not a whole lot of time to react and stop.

You don't need better brakes, you need to drive a little less aggressively.

Enjoy and be safe.

achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

if u know anything about fl driving culture being 15 ft away or about 20 is about what everyone does if u don't some idiot will cut u off and turn that gap into 5 feet i guess you would only understand if u drove here, trust me im from ohio and im not an agg drive however here they all are here and being defensive just lets me get cut off by some crazy fl'idian and it gets frustrating after a while and ive only been here for 6mnths

so again any sugg on what brake upgrades i can do to help in that type of emergency situation??

Ricksi30

I agree with that 100% thats damn close at 80mph

achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

and again it FL driving culture maybe i'm not quite precise on the distanc im behind the guy in front of me but its about 2 standard car lengths thats about 15-20 right, maybe im off maybe it more

all i want is some opp on brake upgrades by people who have them

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

At 80 MPH you should be 8 car lenghts behind the vehicle in front of you.
80 to 50 shouldn't be a problem with a good set of OEM brakes.
A good OEM replacment pad is the Wagner Quiet Stop Ceramic.
Excellent stopping power, good initial bite when cold, very little fad when their hot, lifetime warranty and the best part................ little to no brake dust.
A daily driver doesn't need x-drilled or slotted rotors.

Try driving on NY or NJ highways. Florida, please.... you have no idea.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

mattblehm.com

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

So back to brakes post, I would recommend the conversion of the Z32 brakes. Heard so many good things about them so you should try them out. I won't say anything about the tailgating this. I'm prob closer to the person infront of me going 90.

achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

It b/c all the NYC and NJ people are moving here and thats why tampa highways have becomne more dangerous, bc instead of going like 65 on the BQE or Van wick where its like 45mhz its now 70 here and people are going 85 thining their on the BQE in NYC, and therefore its impossible to remain 8 car lenghts back bc someone will cut u off as u can see it impossible to keep 8 car lenthgs back @ 80mhz ask anyone from tampa

p.s thanks for the brake sugg.

achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

would that be cheaper i am on a budget just wondering what pads a rotors to get??

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

neh save money and get it maybe. I heard that the slotted rotors or the drilled are for heat despensing it quicker. Nothing about braking is better, but then again I'm only 18 and still learning.

kashman15

4 Brembo OEM Blanks--$150
4 Hawk Pads--$140
4 Technafit Stainless Steel Brakelines--$80

Having a brake setup they actually make you stop--PRICELESS

goldtooth

iTrader: (56)

mhz??? ...where the hell do you think we are, Canada?... its MPH or did you just finish working with a computer?...lol, no offense intended btw.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

When I think of upgrade, I think of better calipers and rotors.. Not OEM repalcement pads and rotors.

Trajiksmax

Since your on a budget shop around, see what's out their. I understand you want something in the middle. I just bought Hawk HPS pads and Power Slot rotors Cryo treated. Haven't put them on yet but, all in all it totalled to alittle under $500.

achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the oppinion, tell me how much of a diff ur setup makes b.c if its good i may go with the same setup

1FSTMAX

iTrader: (29)

stillen bbk 13.1", brembo bbk 12.9", and wilwood bbk 12.6"? 13".. any of those kits will stop you in a jiffy..

achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

whoa i was thinkin soemthing that will be oem fitment but better braking??

i did that to my hobby car an integra, that stops on a dime, however the max is just a daily driver

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

IIRC their kit for the A32 is 12.2".

A34 (6th gen brakes) are 12.6" which are also a decent option minues the weight.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

arn 04/05 12.6" as well......tahts what my kit uses

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

6th gen = 04-06.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

sorry had a brain fart....for some wierd reason i thought that 04s were still like 5th gens....but now i remember that 03 is when they started using the 3.5 ...and it was the last year of the 5th gen...its ones of those days

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Nope, IIRC 1/03 was the last production date/month for any A33 body style.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

yea i realize that now.......i am stuck in the 4th gen world still so MEH

scopium

Changing pads is not an upgrade, it's maintenance!

Listen to 1FSTMAX, he know's his shiet. I am saving up for the baller 13.1" kit with AP racing parts. $2500+ is not cheap.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

u could spend like 600 and get 4 pot 300zx calipers with 13" cobras from
jeff92se........and various pads suchs as HAWK HPS are an upgrade from OEM or any 20 dollar autozone pad

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

15 ft isn't enough............you are still too close! And slow down!!! You are right, florida drivers suck...look at you. And using the "florida driving culture" is not an excuse. They drive worse in NY. Go check your local DMV handbook and check on the distance that you have to maintain between you and the driver ahead of you. I bet the cliche "florida driving clulture" isn't even in it.

zander

iTrader: (2)

The blemco 12.6 with 300zx calipers is listed at 440. Pads and everything i believe... And its all oem stuff

buttonhook

iTrader: (4)

offically it is a 2 sec gap betweeen cars (not distance) as speed increases it take more distance so if you are following someone just pick a stationary object (phone pole, fence pole, street sign, what ever) and when their back bumper gets to that object just count a thousand 1, a thousand 2 and your front bumper should be at that same object. any closer than that is toooooo close!

achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

are u kidding me ur still on this...

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

670with calipers.....440 minus calipers....200 minus rotors and calipers

zander

iTrader: (2)

oops my bad

DR-Max

iTrader: (3)

Excuse my ignorance if this is a newbie question, but doesn't changing to a bigger caliper affect the brake booster and the pressure it provides within the hydraulic lines to operate the caliper pistons? Would this decrease the life of the brake booster?

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

No....the booster can handle it... i dont think the 300zx booster in much bigger if any at all anyway......it does however mess with the BIAS for braking...u will have more front BIAS...but in the terms of booster...it has plenty of "boost" shall we say cause it sounds cool.....but i looked into it cause i was wopdnering the same think if i woudl ahve any booster/master cylinder issues....

MadMaxSE-L

iTrader: (4)

Wouldn't only moving to a larger caliper(i.e. more volume required to move larger piston & fill larger piston bore) effectively decrease pressure(i.e. clamping force) at the caliper since you have not added any volume capacity to the mastercylinder or increased pressure via the booster?

But then again maybe I just think too much...

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Right you are. The only benefits are larger contact area between the pads and the rotors, and MUCH less fade.

As for OEM fitment brakes, here's the breakdown of popular street pads:

EBC Greenstuff > OEM
PBR/Axxis Ultimate > EBC Greenstuff
Hawk HPS > PBR/Axxis Ultimate
Ferodo DS2500 > Hawk HPS

And of course dust and cost go up with each step.

As for rotors, people say slotted or cross-drilled rotors help prevent excess heat buildup and protect against warpage. That's true, but trust me... you would need some BIG brake system upgrades on your Max before you'd ever have to worry about that. Plus, either one will eat pads faster. That makes cross-drilled rotors pretty much useless because all they will do in the end is cut down your surface area, which might hurt your braking. Slotted rotors might still be worth it to you, though, because the slots can catch dirt and grime instead of letting it get squeezed under the pads and start scoring the rotors. That's why I have Brembo slotted rotors -- my previous rotors were Brembo blanks, and they were perfectly fine, but they got scored to the point that they were acting strangely, and I really didn't feel like going through that again.

Whatever you do, DEFINITELY get stainless steel lines. If you really have to cheap out and get a less expensive brand then go ahead, but just get them. No brake upgrade is really worth it without them.

IMO, the best bang-for-the-buck combo would be Brembo blank rotors, Hawk HPS pads, and stainless steel lines. Make sure to change your brake fluid as well (get synthetic DOT4 or something). The whole kit 'n kaboodle should cost you under $400. If you can, upgrade to slotted front rotors.

MaximaSE96

iTrader: (8)

It is techincally ar larger caliper because the 4 pistons combined are larget than the single piston stock maxima caliper...i dont remember the calculations off hand but its more....but....having the SS Lines reduce the pressure loss going to the calipers that u would find with regular lines.

MaximaEvolution

iTrader: (2)

listen guy, the integra stops on a dime cause 1 - you have extensive brake work done to it and 2. it weighs what, 2600lbs?

the maxima weighs at least 3000, plus the 100lbs of stereo in the trunk, plus u... if you ever want to do a physics project, use ur maxima.

simple as this, without major brake upgrades, its just not goin to stop the way youd like it to. Especially if in the back of ur brain ur thinkin about ur integra

But since you wanna go cheap i'd suggest a set of steel braided brake lines, and a nice set of hawk front pads. that should run u no more than $200 beans.

achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

thanks finally a repsonse that i can value, everyone this is the type of info i was look for thanks again man

achebee4you

iTrader: (1)

i understand the teg stops better also to clarify the max doesn't have anything in the trunk but the donut and jack, the teg is fo the track though i needed a good brake upgrade that is auto x worthy, i just want better stopping power for fast agg daily driving at a budget, ur sugg also may work thanks