Is changing the KS the PITA it looks like it's going to be, or is there a mystery shortcut that's not too obvious?

 

The mystery shortcut happens to be in the stickies

 

12mm wobble socket, 14" extension. I've written about it in greater detail in the past - a search will dig those up.

Dave

 

12mm wobble socket, 14" extension. I've written about it in greater detail in the past - a search will dig those up.

Dave

 

Wear a tight fitting glove, only problem once you have the right tools, is cutting up your hand in that valley area where it is located.

 

On my old '95, the original KS was on there so tight that I ended up having to use a combo wrench to get it started. Fortunately, there was juuust enough room. Then i used the other tools (socket, u-joint, extensions) to remove it the rest of the way and install the new one. I kept the scratches to a minimum by using a pair of vinyl gloves.

 

I had a midget friend of mine do my knock sensor. He hopped up in my engine bay like a little monkey and was literally standing on my engine while he changed the sensor. Total time to change the KS was like 2 minutes tops.

 

:Not as bad as some make it sound. Take your time, be smarter than the K.S. and expect some banged up knuckles.

 

LOL.

My anorexic friend used both hands

 

wow ... I guess posts like this will never stop comming ... I swear though even when I was a newb I would never post something this stupid

 

changing your knock S is a nightmare I dont care what all you Bullshytters says

 

Use 1/4 " drive for the best results.

 

Btw I shipped it Curt

 

my girl changed my KS for me. she was able to fit her entire forearm. she only got one small scratch on a knuckle. find someone with small hands.

 

I had one replaced today, shop used a socket with a universal. Took him about 10 minutes. He does 20 per month. A dealer wanted to take off the intake manifold and Pep Boys wanted to remove the throttle body for 3.5 hours labor

 

What the hell? This forum is strange. Im a regualr on Audiforums.com and I didnt have to post replys before i was alowed to create threads. Anyway, I just ordered a new KS for my 96 max off of ebay for 80 shipped. I pulled codes today and I have CEL- the codes were for the KS, coolant temp sensor, and "Automatic Transmission Control Unit Signal to ECU" I dont know what that means, but sometimes my tranny (auto) doesnt downshift if i floor it, or does it very delayed. It shifts hard from 1st to 2nd, downshifting is fine. Ive heard of a drop resistor that may cause hard shifts, or solenoids. Let me know what you guys think of all that crap. There are 116k miles on it.

 

also, what is a good price on a coolant temp sensor?

 

1) There are other codes that will trip the knock sensor code also, so my usual advice is to ignore the KS code until it's appearing all by itself. (And the KS code doesn't trip the engine light so you have to check for it). But you have the sensor, so whenever you feel like changing it I'd say go ahead.

2) Change the ECTS, simple as that. It's cheap and if the original is bad it can eat fuel economy and cause hard starting.

3) Check the factory service manual for the tranny signal code - you can d/l it from www.phatg20.net.

Dave

 

Thanks a lot. I have had random hard starts for the past yr and a half, especially about a month ago i couldnt get it started for a whole day, well i ran the battery down trying. I feel a great loss in power since i bought it by the way.. Like VERY slow. It used to be fun to gun it, now its a struggle. Im gunna clean the iac hose or do whatever that writeup is. I ordered the KS cuz ive heard that is a cause of lost power. The CEL came on just last week though.

 

0504 is the code i got that was defined as the automatic tranny control unit signal to ecu. That code is closer to a 02 sensor code which i think would cause the cel?

 

Sorry for the repetative posting but i need to get the point where i can create new threads like a big boy maxima.org member.. So I found this through a yahoo search (because im not alowed to use the search either?!) and im wondering if anyone that has had this code, had success in fixing it.. Because it does create a CEL.. Im hoping it is just a dirty connection, or faulty battery. Its a Nissan battery, but it hasent had a battery replaced for at least 5 years. THeres corrosion and acid on the terminals. Any suggestions are appreciated!!

Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.

This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery

 

changing my KS was a PITA! it took me probably two hours b/c the old one was so tightly bolted on & the extension w/u-joint kept slipping.

 

What's a knock sensor?

 

A knock sensor is pretty self explanitory just the name gives it away. a KNOCK SENSOR!

 

hey does the check engine light have to be on for you to have error codes on the computer ?

 

No, it does not have to be lit. The knock sensor code is one such 'ghost' code.

Dave

 

Where is it at? Hoiw does it look? How do you know if it's broken?

 

Seriously... I'm curious too.. my engine has been making a rattling sound, almost like, dare I say, a "knocking sound"... is that the knock sensor working? I mean, I know how the oxygen sensors convert harmful emissions into oxygen (to make the world a better place), but I'm not why we need the knock sensor to make the knocking sound... any ideas guys?

 

For the benefit of those guys who are less informed than you (apparently) are, why don't you give them a primer on knock, what causes it, what results from it, how the knock sensor senses it, and when it does, what happens as a result of a functional knock sensor doing its job. Impress them with your intelligence and knowledge, not just some flip comment.

 

Knocking and pinging can be caused by numerous things, but using a lower grade of gas can cause it more times than not. The knock sensor has a piezo element inside its casing that can sense these knocks or pings. When it works it pulls some timing and allows the car to still funtion under this condition. When there is a non working KS it will pull estreme amounts of timing and the car will be sluggish, lose power, and lose MPG.

 

Glad it was easy for some, mine was a B***H!
The 12 MM craftsman swivel socket, 12in 1/4 drive extention and a telescoping magnet pickup made it possible at the end. Tried with a 12 mm socket and a universal but it was too tall and could not get a good angle on it, the swivel socket is shorter and allows a better angle and more torque before the socket slips off. Way too tight for me to get a wrench, even a shorty in there.
And it was TIGHT. I've seen posts that say it should be 10-20 ft-lbs, mine was far tighter, worst part was trying to crack it loose.
Then just backed out the bolt. Swapped the sensor cable with the new one then positioned it with the magnet pickup tool, then placed the bolt the same way. Tightened it with the socket, didn't need to get my hand in there at all.
Improvement with the new sensor is subtle, easier to make smooth starts (5 spd) and the flat spot just below 3000 rpm is gone, mileage is up 2mpg, oh and the code is gone.Performance is slightly better.
Take your time and be calm, it can be done.