Might have to junk my max
01-26-2006, 04:31 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 44
Might have to junk my max
If I can't get this EVAP problem figured out.
I need your help - I have code 0807, EVAP system fault. This is keeping me from passing my CA smog test, and my plates are now 3 months expired.
One Nissan dealer "fixed" the problem, only to have the light come on before I could leave the parking lot; another Nissan dealer "diagonsed" the problem by narrowing it down to every single component in the EVAP system, which they offered to replace for $1500.
I have since replaced the canister, all of the rubber hoses, every solenoid and valve in the system myself (for a lot less than $1500). The problem will not go away. After resetting the ECU, the light will stay off the first time I drive the car, but the second time it comes right back on as soon as the engine is started again. I tried to be sly and get the car smogged right after resetting the ECU, but apparently the smog place was able to tell. I failed.
If I can't get this fixed for a reasonable (under $1000) amt of money I'm going to have to junk the car. It was only worth $1200 in trade anyway.
What other systems could affect the EVAP? Could it be the MAP sensor, Boost sensor, TPS? Can anyone help me at all?
I need your help - I have code 0807, EVAP system fault. This is keeping me from passing my CA smog test, and my plates are now 3 months expired.
One Nissan dealer "fixed" the problem, only to have the light come on before I could leave the parking lot; another Nissan dealer "diagonsed" the problem by narrowing it down to every single component in the EVAP system, which they offered to replace for $1500.
I have since replaced the canister, all of the rubber hoses, every solenoid and valve in the system myself (for a lot less than $1500). The problem will not go away. After resetting the ECU, the light will stay off the first time I drive the car, but the second time it comes right back on as soon as the engine is started again. I tried to be sly and get the car smogged right after resetting the ECU, but apparently the smog place was able to tell. I failed.
If I can't get this fixed for a reasonable (under $1000) amt of money I'm going to have to junk the car. It was only worth $1200 in trade anyway.
What other systems could affect the EVAP? Could it be the MAP sensor, Boost sensor, TPS? Can anyone help me at all?
sorry.
01-26-2006, 05:15 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 416
Your ECU has 8 selftests to complete and when you reset it it only completes about 4. You need 6 to pass. I have the info you need to get the other test to complete. stinkin OBDII, i hate it. Need to know if yours is an auto or a 5 speed. I will ask the smog guy to let me copy the info out of his OBII book.
THere are about 12 steps to get the ECU to complete the test.
Example of one of the steps: drive at 40mph in 2nd gear for 2 min with ac on using cruise control, then de-accelerate to 30 then accelerate back to 40 without totaly taking your foot of the gas pedal (on the deceleration part). Then add at least 4 gal of gas then repeat steps 7-12.
I sounds like a crock of ****e but i just went through this last week and it worked took me about 2hrs to do the 12 steps.
THere are about 12 steps to get the ECU to complete the test.
Example of one of the steps: drive at 40mph in 2nd gear for 2 min with ac on using cruise control, then de-accelerate to 30 then accelerate back to 40 without totaly taking your foot of the gas pedal (on the deceleration part). Then add at least 4 gal of gas then repeat steps 7-12.
I sounds like a crock of ****e but i just went through this last week and it worked took me about 2hrs to do the 12 steps.
01-27-2006, 10:33 AM
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2001
Posts: 44
Thanks for all the replies.
Gas cap is new; didn't help. I swapped ECU's, and had the same code show up almost immediately, so no dice there. I've replaced every single solenoid, valve, sensor, unidentifiable dingus box, hose, hose clamp, canister, even the stupid bracket that holds the canister to the car. Gas cap, ECU, spark plugs, cleaned up the IACV and throttle body, put CAIG D5 on every electrical connection I could get to.
tbergma1, check your PM.
Gas cap is new; didn't help. I swapped ECU's, and had the same code show up almost immediately, so no dice there. I've replaced every single solenoid, valve, sensor, unidentifiable dingus box, hose, hose clamp, canister, even the stupid bracket that holds the canister to the car. Gas cap, ECU, spark plugs, cleaned up the IACV and throttle body, put CAIG D5 on every electrical connection I could get to.
tbergma1, check your PM.
01-27-2006, 10:51 AM
#8
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: north jersey
Posts: 163
probably silly to ask but did you change the fuse? i was reading the stickies about 0807 and it said the fuse (#58) is a possible source of the problem. also said the problem might be electrical (either the wiring or the harness) so if you haven't checked that maybe you could try those things. hope that helps and good luck
01-27-2006, 11:00 AM
#9
ok ok ok man............
OK. Now ive been up one side and back when it comes to your EVAP purge control valve selenoid position blah blah blah.....
#1. Go get a 07 sticker for someone for your plates. I have NOT had my car inspected for 2 yrs and i roll on 04' plates w/ 07' stickers. The ticket is approx 47.50 since its not a moving violation. If they ask to see the car when u pay for it tell them its not running right now.
#2. For your EVAP. this may take some time but you should do all of this first.
1. I will post the Help Kevlo and Njmaxseltd have given to me. read it all 3 times or until you understand it.
kevlo911: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=EVAP
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0807 does not appear in the '99 Maxima factory service manual, and that is my principal information source. I'll tell what I know about the '99 Maxima EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve. This information may or may not apply to your Maxima.
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
from ecu codes defined
Need More.. ??? I got it.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=EVAP
^^
This thread i believe was part of the problem, the bolt is hard to find but with knowledge and reading this thread you should find it......
Next, check all hoses... see this thread... http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=EVAP
Next, I just replaced my TPS and now the car finally runs properly with warm up position and idling correctly..
If all this is done, disconnect ur battery overnight to completely reset the ecu.
Someone needs to make this a sticky... i help to many ppl with EVAP probs.. lol
Btw if you get mad and feal like beating your car you can. just dont hit the paint.
peace man.
**PS** See EVAP link in sig....
#1. Go get a 07 sticker for someone for your plates. I have NOT had my car inspected for 2 yrs and i roll on 04' plates w/ 07' stickers. The ticket is approx 47.50 since its not a moving violation. If they ask to see the car when u pay for it tell them its not running right now.
#2. For your EVAP. this may take some time but you should do all of this first.
1. I will post the Help Kevlo and Njmaxseltd have given to me. read it all 3 times or until you understand it.
kevlo911: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=EVAP
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0807 does not appear in the '99 Maxima factory service manual, and that is my principal information source. I'll tell what I know about the '99 Maxima EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve. This information may or may not apply to your Maxima.
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
from ecu codes defined
Need More.. ??? I got it.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=EVAP
^^
This thread i believe was part of the problem, the bolt is hard to find but with knowledge and reading this thread you should find it......
Next, check all hoses... see this thread... http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....highlight=EVAP
Next, I just replaced my TPS and now the car finally runs properly with warm up position and idling correctly..
If all this is done, disconnect ur battery overnight to completely reset the ecu.
Someone needs to make this a sticky... i help to many ppl with EVAP probs.. lol
Btw if you get mad and feal like beating your car you can. just dont hit the paint.
peace man.
**PS** See EVAP link in sig....
01-27-2006, 08:20 PM
#13
I had that same problem with my 97 Se. My symptoms were as follows, strong smell of pure gas after I fueled up and just before I turned the car off in my garage. I don't remeber the codes but my mechanic changed my purge solenoid and vacuum cut valve, parts cost $217. About 700 miles later the check engine light comes on again, this time he changed the evap vent control valve and the O ring. This cost me $123 in parts but it fixed my problem. Apparently the evap vent control on 4th gens rusts easily and stops turning venting the gas fumes, shortly thereafter the other parts will fail. Sorry for the long answer but I hope this helps you. btw: my mechanic had to use the ALLDATA printout which all good shops can access to fix my car. he even gave me the printout
01-30-2006, 05:42 PM
#15
i would say the vacuum leak.
AND ONE MORE THING, WOULD SOMEBODY TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF PARTS SHOULD I USE FOR MY 95 MAXIMA TO BEAT THE 2005 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. I HAVE A CAI AND A GOOD EXHAUST. THE GUY BEAT THE S*$% OUT OF ME. I WAS DOING A 123MPH YESTERDAY THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THIS EVO CAME AND EAT MY MAX
:.
AND ONE MORE THING, WOULD SOMEBODY TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF PARTS SHOULD I USE FOR MY 95 MAXIMA TO BEAT THE 2005 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. I HAVE A CAI AND A GOOD EXHAUST. THE GUY BEAT THE S*$% OUT OF ME. I WAS DOING A 123MPH YESTERDAY THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THIS EVO CAME AND EAT MY MAX
:.
01-31-2006, 03:24 AM
#18
Originally Posted by khantalha
i would say the vacuum leak.
AND ONE MORE THING, WOULD SOMEBODY TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF PARTS SHOULD I USE FOR MY 95 MAXIMA TO BEAT THE 2005 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. I HAVE A CAI AND A GOOD EXHAUST. THE GUY BEAT THE S*$% OUT OF ME. I WAS DOING A 123MPH YESTERDAY THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THIS EVO CAME AND EAT MY MAX:.
AND ONE MORE THING, WOULD SOMEBODY TELL ME WHAT TYPE OF PARTS SHOULD I USE FOR MY 95 MAXIMA TO BEAT THE 2005 MITSUBISHI LANCER EVOLUTION. I HAVE A CAI AND A GOOD EXHAUST. THE GUY BEAT THE S*$% OUT OF ME. I WAS DOING A 123MPH YESTERDAY THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THIS EVO CAME AND EAT MY MAX
:.
01-31-2006, 03:38 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 506
check fuse #
Check fuse #58, should be a 10 amp fuse. replcae if blown.
I was in the same situation myself,(car having EVAP problems) so I did decide to get rid of it. I literately spent the last bit of money I had to try to get that car to pass emissions here in Atlanta. It failed miserabely. lol....
I traded the car for an old diesel Mercedes
Now I can drive by every single emissions testing place with my middle finger proudly displayed....
Anywayz...... that fuse was the only thing I never checked. Makes me wish I still had the car to try and fix it...... lol......
I was in the same situation myself,(car having EVAP problems) so I did decide to get rid of it. I literately spent the last bit of money I had to try to get that car to pass emissions here in Atlanta. It failed miserabely. lol....
I traded the car for an old diesel Mercedes
Now I can drive by every single emissions testing place with my middle finger proudly displayed....
Anywayz...... that fuse was the only thing I never checked. Makes me wish I still had the car to try and fix it...... lol......
01-31-2006, 04:21 PM
#20
yea I have to agree its sounds like a vacuum leak. well thats what my dad says and hes a mechanic but he says you wouldnt know without a diagnostic but he said your mech. must not be very smart because a diagnostic should read out where the problem is. my dads never misses one but he has a whole comp. system one of the most high tech in the area anyways get it checked again.
02-01-2006, 05:08 PM
#21
no diagnostics needed. just start from the throttle body to the in take and every other hose in the front. use a chiltons manual and you will find the leak.
trust me on this. if you need further help pm me.
trust me on this. if you need further help pm me.
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