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JUST got alternator replaced, tested, battery tested, STILL SAME VOLTAGE!!! $*#(@)$*)

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Old Mar 8, 2006 | 05:03 AM
  #41  
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Anyone?!?!
Old Mar 8, 2006 | 09:29 AM
  #42  
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Damn no one knows???
Old Mar 18, 2006 | 02:22 PM
  #43  
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Just got a new Optima Red Top swapped thru warranty, same deal with voltage.
Old Mar 18, 2006 | 05:17 PM
  #44  
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With all you have done I would say live with it and don't worry about it. The voltage does sound high, but if any battery can stand up to it, it would be the Optima.
Old Mar 18, 2006 | 05:19 PM
  #45  
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yes, keep an eye on it, but dont worry about it.
Old Mar 18, 2006 | 06:31 PM
  #46  
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Am I the only one who wishes he had thsi problem? I usually read about 12volts while charging.. I need a new battery.. and possibly a new alt
Old Mar 18, 2006 | 06:33 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by whitegold
Am I the only one who wishes he had thsi problem? I usually read about 12volts while charging.. I need a new battery.. and possibly a new alt
If his situation was really a problem (I think he's fine at the voltage read out he's getting) why would you want that? too much voltage can be as bad as not enough voltage.
Old Mar 20, 2006 | 05:20 AM
  #48  
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Well when I first start it up bone cold.

SAFC II read 14.9-15.0
Radar reads 14.9-15.0

Just driving around normally no highway...
SAFC II reads 14.3-14.5

Driving on Highway...
SAFC II reads 14.7-14.8 sometimes 14.9
Old Mar 20, 2006 | 10:04 AM
  #49  
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i dunno but check your fuses
maybe thats why your lights are going nuts on you
Old Nov 13, 2010 | 07:57 PM
  #50  
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I know this thread is very old but I have had the same problem. Once I replaced the ALT.S fuse under the hood the problem disappeared - no more overcharging and no more lights on the dash.
Old Nov 13, 2010 | 09:32 PM
  #51  
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How accurate is the multimeter that you are using? I'm an electronics guy and I know first hand that multimeters vary. And I wouldn't rely on your radar detector and safc to be dead on ***** accurate either as there main purposes is not to be a volt meter . Just my 0.02
Old Nov 13, 2010 | 09:51 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by trini_max21
How accurate is the multimeter that you are using? I'm an electronics guy and I know first hand that multimeters vary. And I wouldn't rely on your radar detector and safc to be dead on ***** accurate either as there main purposes is not to be a volt meter . Just my 0.02
DUDE............this thread is 4 years old! I'm pretty sure its fixed by now.
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 12:25 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by HarrisH
This is garbage. I'm so mad. I just got the alternator replaced with a brand new OEM Nissan alty. The voltage from the original in my opinion was to high 14.8-15.0 when driving. I knew it had to have been the alternator since it was a reman'd. So I purchased an OEM one, put it in, and guess what? Voltage is STILL the same. So I got the battery tested, guess what? IT'S GOOD! So why can't I charge at 14.0-14.5 V???
check all the grounds
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 12:26 PM
  #54  
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check all the grounds.. one on the alt and one on the trans
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by turk1215
check all the grounds.. one on the alt and one on the trans
Check the thread date.

I'm sure he checked it 4+ years ago.
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 12:28 PM
  #56  
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wheres the ecm?
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by turk1215
wheres the ecm?
die
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 02:27 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by nismos14
die
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 03:42 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by beegeezy
ditto
Old Nov 14, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #60  
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aww lol i thought this thread was informative :/
Old Nov 15, 2010 | 11:13 AM
  #61  
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Did anyone consider consulting the FSM four years ago? There is a good flow chart on troubleshooting alternator/charging problems. It shows that unless the voltage exceeds 15.5VDC the voltage regulator located in the alternator and the alternator are fine.

I can't believe the OP was so worried about a 0.5V difference.
Old Apr 17, 2014 | 12:02 PM
  #62  
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ALT.S fuse

I had the exact same problem for a few months. I took the "monitor it and see approach". I first noticed that the voltage was too high when I checked it after changing the crankshaft pulley and the two serpentine belts. The voltage would usually stay between 14.8 and 15.2V, even at idle with very little load. I just came across this thread and the only person who got it right, at least in my case, was luedemann in his post on November 13th of 2010. I read how he changed the 7.5 amp ATL.S fuse in the fuse box by the battery under the hood and that fixed the problem for him. I went out and checked my 1996 Maxima and, yup, that fuse was blown. I didn't change anything but the fuse and it fixed it. Now it runs around 14.3V @1500 RPM. I think that the higher voltage DID do some damage to my battery though because even after a long drive, the battery voltage is only at 11 volts with the car shut off and it almost doesn't start if it is too cold out. Anyways... Thanks luedemann!!
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