JUST got alternator replaced, tested, battery tested, STILL SAME VOLTAGE!!! $*#(@)$*)
01-27-2006, 11:22 AM
#1
JUST got alternator replaced, tested, battery tested, STILL SAME VOLTAGE!!! $*#(@)$*)
This is garbage. I'm so mad. I just got the alternator replaced with a brand new OEM Nissan alty. The voltage from the original in my opinion was to high 14.8-15.0 when driving. I knew it had to have been the alternator since it was a reman'd. So I purchased an OEM one, put it in, and guess what? Voltage is STILL the same. So I got the battery tested, guess what? IT'S GOOD! So why can't I charge at 14.0-14.5 V???
01-27-2006, 11:38 AM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,207
Originally Posted by tomservo291
Not to sound stupid, but can I ask how you obtained a voltage while driving?
Sorry... did you just type that you replaced your alternator because the voltage was too high? You just wasted your money on an alternator. The battery will charge. Leave it alone.
01-27-2006, 11:43 AM
#4
Originally Posted by PAREDLINE
He probably checks it in the cigarette lighter. What is the voltage number you get? And where are you checking it?
Sorry... did you just type that you replaced your alternator because the voltage was too high? You just wasted your money on an alternator. The battery will charge. Leave it alone.
Sorry... did you just type that you replaced your alternator because the voltage was too high? You just wasted your money on an alternator. The battery will charge. Leave it alone.
01-27-2006, 11:52 AM
#6
even nissan altys are reman.
so you replaced the alty due to the high voltage? or an incident occured?
I'm not a guru on the electrical but if the voltage is staying constant it shouldnt cause that much of a problem.
Maybe the SAFCII is causing the higher output
so you replaced the alty due to the high voltage? or an incident occured?
I'm not a guru on the electrical but if the voltage is staying constant it shouldnt cause that much of a problem.
Maybe the SAFCII is causing the higher output
01-27-2006, 12:01 PM
#7
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 33
Originally Posted by MDeezy
even nissan altys are reman.
I'm not a guru on the electrical but if the voltage is staying constant it shouldnt cause that much of a problem.
I'm not a guru on the electrical but if the voltage is staying constant it shouldnt cause that much of a problem.
And yes, readings in the 15.0's are NOT common, but IMHO, not something to jump into a new alt...readings reaching into the 17's and 18's are eye openers. The first thing to go is usually the headlights...but yes, the electrical system could be damaged.
BTW, do you have a 98 or earlier? Some 4th gen alternators were covered in a nissan recall...
EDIT
just re-read quoted post - yes, he's also correct. A constant 15.-ish without fluctuation shouldn't cause much of a problem...
EDIT #2
23215-31U05 Nissan Alternator Regulator...
01-27-2006, 12:09 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Feed
Nissan Dealer OEM Alternators are not remag units.
23215-31U05 Nissan Alternator Regulator...
23215-31U05 Nissan Alternator Regulator...
Isn't the regulator part of the alternator? didn't realize it could be replaced as a seperate item (at least via a Nissan part). Interesting.
01-27-2006, 12:15 PM
#9
The charge is constant, it doesn't fluctuate much at all. But I still am not happy since it is still a bit high.
Let me give you a bit more information.
My car was at Tilley's shop getting a new paint job. The car was there for approx. 2 months. The day I went to pick it up I started it up. The battery and brake light were on but very dimly, they were not on bright as day as they usually are when you first start the car while cycling thru the ACC and ON position. At this point, I notified Tilley who proceeded to remove or check on the connector that's in the alternator. I guess he touched a positive wire or something because sparks flew for a 1-2 seconds. At that point he turned off the car, and removed and cleaned the connector because it was dirty. The charge was then fine it was in the 14.xx range. Me being so relieved didn't check it to much.
I have an SAFC-II, and a Radar detector both which are constantly reading the voltage. On the drive back from the Tilley's (approx. 2 hour drive) the voltage was CONSTANT between 14.7-14.8. It even went up to 14.9. I was not happy with this high a voltage. It would normally charge between 14.0-14.1. That's what I wanted.
The alternator had also been pulsing, while I was stopped the lights would go dimmer then brighter rapidly and not to noticeably but it was happening, but it was subtle. I determined since it is a reman'd alternator that I should go ahead and get an OEM alternator. I purchased one from Pinnacle Nissan, they told me the everything was brand new except for the case which is why it was badged reman'd. I had that alternator put in today. And my voltage readings are still consistently between 14.7-14.8 while driving on the highway.
Let me give you a bit more information.
My car was at Tilley's shop getting a new paint job. The car was there for approx. 2 months. The day I went to pick it up I started it up. The battery and brake light were on but very dimly, they were not on bright as day as they usually are when you first start the car while cycling thru the ACC and ON position. At this point, I notified Tilley who proceeded to remove or check on the connector that's in the alternator. I guess he touched a positive wire or something because sparks flew for a 1-2 seconds. At that point he turned off the car, and removed and cleaned the connector because it was dirty. The charge was then fine it was in the 14.xx range. Me being so relieved didn't check it to much.
I have an SAFC-II, and a Radar detector both which are constantly reading the voltage. On the drive back from the Tilley's (approx. 2 hour drive) the voltage was CONSTANT between 14.7-14.8. It even went up to 14.9. I was not happy with this high a voltage. It would normally charge between 14.0-14.1. That's what I wanted.
The alternator had also been pulsing, while I was stopped the lights would go dimmer then brighter rapidly and not to noticeably but it was happening, but it was subtle. I determined since it is a reman'd alternator that I should go ahead and get an OEM alternator. I purchased one from Pinnacle Nissan, they told me the everything was brand new except for the case which is why it was badged reman'd. I had that alternator put in today. And my voltage readings are still consistently between 14.7-14.8 while driving on the highway.
01-27-2006, 12:34 PM
#10
Harris,
First the voltage from a running Alternator should be around 14.4 volts....second of all, you sir are acting like a schmuck....the alternators you have are both find evidently, so why go around changing them. Of course the voltage will go up as you're spinning the alternator more...gimme a break dude...
and THEN why start two threads about the same problem or what you thought was a problem...relax and step away from the maxima and the computer...
First the voltage from a running Alternator should be around 14.4 volts....second of all, you sir are acting like a schmuck....the alternators you have are both find evidently, so why go around changing them. Of course the voltage will go up as you're spinning the alternator more...gimme a break dude...
and THEN why start two threads about the same problem or what you thought was a problem...relax and step away from the maxima and the computer...
Not to sound like an ****, but I think you wasted money and time. Voltage will definately fluctuate depending on the load on the alternator.
01-27-2006, 03:26 PM
#13
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 33
Originally Posted by njmodi
They ARE rebuilt, just like the OEM starters, but are supposed to have all new internals... as opposed to the parts-store specials, where only the failed components have been replaced.
Isn't the regulator part of the alternator? didn't realize it could be replaced as a seperate item (at least via a Nissan part). Interesting.
Isn't the regulator part of the alternator? didn't realize it could be replaced as a seperate item (at least via a Nissan part). Interesting.
The Nissan regulator is a "Servicable" item. It's actually built into the alternator. Whether or not you would chose to go that route is questionable.
The OEM NipponDenso units that are availible to Nissan dealerships are NOT remag units. The units procurred and re-sold at various dealerships are not all NipponDenso units. So yes, you can obtain a remag OEM-equiv alternator from a dealership. This is the discretion of any parts manager.
Sorry for the assumption and confusion on my part.
01-27-2006, 05:04 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Feed
Just clarifying
The Nissan regulator is a "Servicable" item. It's actually built into the alternator. Whether or not you would chose to go that route is questionable.
The OEM NipponDenso units that are availible to Nissan dealerships are NOT remag units. The units procurred and re-sold at various dealerships are not all NipponDenso units. So yes, you can obtain a remag OEM-equiv alternator from a dealership. This is the discretion of any parts manager.
Sorry for the assumption and confusion on my part.
The Nissan regulator is a "Servicable" item. It's actually built into the alternator. Whether or not you would chose to go that route is questionable.
The OEM NipponDenso units that are availible to Nissan dealerships are NOT remag units. The units procurred and re-sold at various dealerships are not all NipponDenso units. So yes, you can obtain a remag OEM-equiv alternator from a dealership. This is the discretion of any parts manager.
Sorry for the assumption and confusion on my part.
Very interesting... are the prices different or is it the luck of the draw as to which type you end up with?
01-27-2006, 07:14 PM
#17
When my car was on and I had my old alpine amp the amp would show 14.2 volts, when I drove I am sure that that number could increase and probably peak at 14.8 - 15.0. I don't think there is anything wrong here.
01-28-2006, 06:45 AM
#19
I would say something may have been wrong with the first one since lights were pulsing, etc, but you should be good on this one. Plus with a new battery and all the alternato doesn't have to charge it that much so you would get higher readings, especially on the highway after the battery receives starting charge replenishment. If you are still worried about high voltage, throw 2 12z or 15z in the trunk, a big amp, and call it a day.
01-28-2006, 08:57 AM
#20
Originally Posted by maxgtr2000
I would say something may have been wrong with the first one since lights were pulsing, etc, but you should be good on this one. Plus with a new battery and all the alternato doesn't have to charge it that much so you would get higher readings, especially on the highway after the battery receives starting charge replenishment. If you are still worried about high voltage, throw 2 12z or 15z in the trunk, a big amp, and call it a day.
01-28-2006, 12:49 PM
#22
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 140
it is too high at 15 i had the same problem on my 91 and i took out headlights and my optima batery with it. then i bought another alt and it too was bad, got another and im at about 14.6. but i got an autozone reman and when they tested it, it failed the regulator test then they gave me the one thats in my car now.
01-28-2006, 01:18 PM
#23
100% chingon
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,003
Sorry to have to contradict the majority, but 15V is too high for a decent battery. The correct terminal voltage on a 12V lead-acid battery, under charge, is 13.8V.
The alternator should be able to maintain the voltage steady at 13.8 even without a battery present, the only purpose the battery has is to act as a reservoir of electrical power and as a stabiliser; sometimes you may exceed the alternator's maximum output (raining, heated rear window on, lights on, wipers on, etc etc), at which time the battery makes up the shortfall.
The voltage of 13.8 is determined by the laws of electrochemistry for lead compounds and sulphuric acid. Much above 13.8 for very long, i.e. overcharging, you'll see outgassing and lose too much distilled water. OFF charge, the terminals should read 12.0 volts.
The definitive answer to your concerns, is to put an ammeter on the charging circuit. After the car has been running for 15 minutes or so (i.e. the amount taken out by the starter has been replaced) the ammeter should read only what the engine is taking, i.e. the drain of the fuel pump, ignition circuits, and ecu. Perhaps 6 - 10 amps though I would need to look it up. Moving the ammeter to the main battery cable should give virtually no current in either direction (perhaps a charging current of 1 or 2 amps) since the alternator is supplying the load.
The alternator should be able to maintain the voltage steady at 13.8 even without a battery present, the only purpose the battery has is to act as a reservoir of electrical power and as a stabiliser; sometimes you may exceed the alternator's maximum output (raining, heated rear window on, lights on, wipers on, etc etc), at which time the battery makes up the shortfall.
The voltage of 13.8 is determined by the laws of electrochemistry for lead compounds and sulphuric acid. Much above 13.8 for very long, i.e. overcharging, you'll see outgassing and lose too much distilled water. OFF charge, the terminals should read 12.0 volts.
The definitive answer to your concerns, is to put an ammeter on the charging circuit. After the car has been running for 15 minutes or so (i.e. the amount taken out by the starter has been replaced) the ammeter should read only what the engine is taking, i.e. the drain of the fuel pump, ignition circuits, and ecu. Perhaps 6 - 10 amps though I would need to look it up. Moving the ammeter to the main battery cable should give virtually no current in either direction (perhaps a charging current of 1 or 2 amps) since the alternator is supplying the load.
01-28-2006, 01:32 PM
#24
with my high output when i first start the car its at 15.1 then after driving for a little and pumpin the stereo it goes to about 14.9-14.4 u are fine. stop futzing around with the alternators. u can have diff volatage readouts depending on where ur sources are. i read diff voltage than i do under my hood and my voltmeter is hooked up to my cigg lighter. so just leave it alone for now if the batt light comes on then change it or bring it to nissan if ur having this much of a problem
01-28-2006, 02:11 PM
#25
Originally Posted by clive
Sorry to have to contradict the majority, but 15V is too high for a decent battery. The correct terminal voltage on a 12V lead-acid battery, under charge, is 13.8V
today's alternators are 18volt ac. inside the alternator are diodes to rectify the ac to dc. my 97 service manual says the voltage range should be from 14.1 to 14.7, so saying 13.8 volts is correct, does not apply to this situation.
01-29-2006, 10:26 AM
#26
100% chingon
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,003
Originally Posted by DennisMik
You are basically correct for lead acid batteries. but with the advent of alternators, batteries have changed from the old lead acid which cannot stand the over charging that the much more powerful alternators do. many batteries are calcium chloride. back in the 1960's when alternators first started showing up, there were a lot of early battery failures, prompting the search for other battery construction.
Surely not. Calcium chloride + sulphuric acid -> calcium sulphate + chlorine gas + water, I think. Sodium is closely related to calcium (next element in the table) and WW2 submariners were always worried about sea water (sodium chloride) getting to the batteries, because it produced chlorine gas. Perhaps you're confused by the addition of calcium to the plate metal, as in this quote from Varta at: http://www.varta-automotive.co.uk/in...lver-tech.html
"Modern cars require modern solutions. With the ever increasing sophistication of today’s cars - and the demand this places on the car’s battery - it’s no surprise that the battery engineers at VARTA were asked by the carmakers to develop the most innovative battery technology to date: VARTA CALCIUM-SILVER technology.
By adding SILVER to the composition of the battery’s positive plate, and by incorporating all-round improvements in design and technological features, our silver technology range of batteries deliver unprecedented performance and reliability."
Which I must admit, I didn't know before now.
I decided to investigate rather than talking nonsense, so here are the measurements for 4 vehicles:
1. Sentra. Battery 2 years old.
Terminal volts prior to starting: 12.2, On charge: 14.1 - 14.2
2. Maxima. Battery 4 years old.
Terminal volts prior to starting: 12.2, On charge: 13.97 - 14.01
3. Mercury Villager. (Max Gen 3) Battery 2 years old.
Terminal volts prior to starting: 12.3, On charge: 14.42 - 14.43
4. Ford Aerostar. Battery 1 year old, same type as Villager above.
Terminal volts prior to starting: 12.6, On charge: 14.69 - 14.8
So the nominal voltage (off charge) varied between 12.2 and 12.6, and the on-charge voltage varied between 13.97 and 14.8V
Since 13.8 is nominal for a lead-acid battery, and 14.8 was the highest voltage measured, then the variation is only 7.2% which is quite little, really. So I wouldn't be inclined to worry unless it was significantly above 15V.
02-20-2006, 05:00 PM
#27
Alright here's another update.
My buddies 350z consistently charges between 14.0-14.1. My boys Maxima charged around high 13's while driving.
I'm still peaking at 14.9 V.
What I don't understand is, before my voltage would be between 14.0-14.5, why all of a sudden has it decided to consistently charge a hair below 15?
What wires should I check just to be on the safe side? What would be some symptoms of a short or electrical problem?
My buddies 350z consistently charges between 14.0-14.1. My boys Maxima charged around high 13's while driving.
I'm still peaking at 14.9 V.
What I don't understand is, before my voltage would be between 14.0-14.5, why all of a sudden has it decided to consistently charge a hair below 15?
What wires should I check just to be on the safe side? What would be some symptoms of a short or electrical problem?
02-22-2006, 02:22 PM
#31
100% chingon
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,003
Originally Posted by HarrisH
Alright here's another update.
What wires should I check just to be on the safe side? What would be some symptoms of a short or electrical problem?
What wires should I check just to be on the safe side? What would be some symptoms of a short or electrical problem?
the charging volts depend on the battery. not the alternator.
02-22-2006, 02:41 PM
#32
Most of the advice here is f'ucked up. Check it with a good Fluke meter and unplug the extra electronic crap you have hooked to it. They may be causing your problem. Your voltage reading IS TOO HIGH. Don't let people tell you it is not. It may not fry things but it will cook your battery to an early grave if the Fluke bears out your reading.
02-26-2006, 07:22 PM
#34
Originally Posted by bhunter
Most of the advice here is f'ucked up. Check it with a good Fluke meter and unplug the extra electronic crap you have hooked to it. They may be causing your problem. Your voltage reading IS TOO HIGH. Don't let people tell you it is not. It may not fry things but it will cook your battery to an early grave if the Fluke bears out your reading.
02-27-2006, 06:09 AM
#36
People who say the charging voltage depends on the battery, not the alternator are wrong. I'm saying the higher voltage probably WILL NOT fry things electronic in the car. The overcharging will shorten the life of your battery. Make sure all the connectors on the alternator are tight and maybe run another ground wire from your battery to the frame.
02-27-2006, 07:39 AM
#37
Originally Posted by bhunter
People who say the charging voltage depends on the battery, not the alternator are wrong. I'm saying the higher voltage probably WILL NOT fry things electronic in the car. The overcharging will shorten the life of your battery. Make sure all the connectors on the alternator are tight and maybe run another ground wire from your battery to the frame.
03-07-2006, 07:08 PM
#40
I was at Tilleys today.
I tested the voltage with a multimeter, 15.00-15.10 volts. Lowest was like 14.89. When IDLING. Swapped alternator connector, the harness with the 3 connectors, goes into A/C, some gray plug, and the alternator. SAME DEAL SAME VOLTAGE.
Checked voltage coming from wire, how much voltage is being feed, it read 14.86.
So what now???
I tested the voltage with a multimeter, 15.00-15.10 volts. Lowest was like 14.89. When IDLING. Swapped alternator connector, the harness with the 3 connectors, goes into A/C, some gray plug, and the alternator. SAME DEAL SAME VOLTAGE.
Checked voltage coming from wire, how much voltage is being feed, it read 14.86.
So what now???