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Throwout bearing?

Old Jan 30, 2006 | 07:34 AM
  #1  
maxihari77SE96's Avatar
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Throwout bearing?

I hope I spelled it right...

10,000 miles ago I installed a brand new Exedy Stage I and Fidanza flywheel.

Experienced some problems with the start up and the jerkiness when shifting 2nd, 3rd, 4th... 5th gears.

Other then that, excellent... Grip, Revs, felt much lighter...

Anyways.... Last week, my clutch went out again. This time a throwout bearing was broke. What gives? Frined of mine (he did the install and the fix) told me - aggresive driving or bad part (first time)... I wasn't all that aggresive, in retrospective....

Opinions?
thanks
Old Jan 30, 2006 | 07:41 AM
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I had some of the exact same issues (starting problem) and it wouldn't go into gear.

Turned out to be my clutch disc springs broke out somehow.

But the jerkyness is all driver, gota re-learn how to drive your car w/ that light flywheel.
Old Jan 30, 2006 | 08:20 AM
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ok...? that's what I thought too. Even managed to almost get rid of it while shifting... (bit more/less clutch/revs when required) and that does it.

Now, when I am IN the gear... say 3rd, 5th... just cruising along... let go of the gass, and step hard on it, jerkiness happens... IN the gear already.
Old Jan 30, 2006 | 08:57 AM
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That's normal - anytime you unwind the drivetrain you need to really be soft letting off the throttle or else the gear lash will 'thunk' the whole car. Light flywheels and unsprung clutches make the car much more sensitive to it.

One installation question: did your friend clean the pressure plate and flywheel with carb cleaner when he installed it?

As for getting good undamaging engagement, engage the clutch like this:
1) Lift the clutch pedal steadily. To get extra smooth engagement, lift it slowly. Never, ever pause the pedal in the friction zone - only adjust how fast or slow you're lifting the clutch pedal in the friction zone.

2) Either hold the throttle still or slowly apply gas during clutch engagement. Just like you should never stop the clutch pedal while it's engaging, you should not vary what the throttle is doing either.

So in summary, a better shift is just a simultaneous clutch up, throttle down. Vary the speed of this to adjust the aggressiveness, but never pause.

Dave
Old Jan 31, 2006 | 04:39 PM
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the drivetrain slack is minimal after i upgraded my motor mounts.

Jae
Old Jan 31, 2006 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by dgeesaman
That's normal - anytime you unwind the drivetrain you need to really be soft letting off the throttle or else the gear lash will 'thunk' the whole car. Light flywheels and unsprung clutches make the car much more sensitive to it.

One installation question: did your friend clean the pressure plate and flywheel with carb cleaner when he installed it?

As for getting good undamaging engagement, engage the clutch like this:
1) Lift the clutch pedal steadily. To get extra smooth engagement, lift it slowly. Never, ever pause the pedal in the friction zone - only adjust how fast or slow you're lifting the clutch pedal in the friction zone.

2) Either hold the throttle still or slowly apply gas during clutch engagement. Just like you should never stop the clutch pedal while it's engaging, you should not vary what the throttle is doing either.

So in summary, a better shift is just a simultaneous clutch up, throttle down. Vary the speed of this to adjust the aggressiveness, but never pause.

Dave
Im curious as to why you asked if he cleaned the flywheel with carb cleaner?
Old Jan 31, 2006 | 08:47 PM
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i believe it has something to do with the qaulity of the clutch breakin in
Old Feb 1, 2006 | 02:47 AM
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Any grease or oil on the running surfaces will cause clutch shudder.

Dave
Old Feb 1, 2006 | 06:43 AM
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hmm I'll look into that.

I upgraded to urethane motor mounts long time ago.
Old Feb 3, 2006 | 06:43 PM
  #10  
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the aftermarket TOB are known to break, all too often. buy a nissan one and do it right. that goes for the clutch too. sometimes being cheep bites you in the azz.
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