car used to jerk but now jerks worse then before. it happens only when im idling in drive or reverse and sometimes as im accelerating. RPMs stay around 750 but when it jerks they hop up to about 1000 or a little over. previous ideas were to check coils, they seem good. changed my plugs, changed my fuel filter. throttle body looked pretty damn clean so didnt bother trying to clean it. any more ideas of what i could do??

also, after doing what i said i did, check engine light came on. code was P0100: mass air flow sensor. i found some clamps loose on the intake so i tightened them, my teacher erased the codes to see if theyde come back on, it was a 10 min drive home and so far it hasnt.

 

if the maf came up it probably the problem then

 

but it was doing the same thing with the light off, just not as bad

 

clean IACV?
running premium?

 

umm im using regular. i dont think the engines supposed to run on premium, to my knowledge using a different grade gas can screw it up. ill try to clean the IACV.

 

Uhhhh ITS SUPPOSED TO RUN ON PREMIUM lol.... read you gas door....
also you have a 99 which are Prone to igniton coil problems...

 

oh, whoops. haha. but yea, if the ignition coils are the same as the ones above the spark plugs ive already checked them. (im new to this car stuff if you couldnt already tell.)

 

Try cleaning the MAF with the correct cleaner. You can buy it at Murrays Auto for about $6.00. Also, check the MAF connector to make sure the pins are clean and it is snapped in tight. Good luck.

 

ok cool, is there a way i could run it through? or do i have to do it myself? (im one lazy bastard)

 

Notsure what you mean by run it through. If you don't want anymore CELs, you have to remove the air intake portion from the air box to the flex hose, put the small spray straw on the nozzle and completely spray the entire sensor and screen. Don't get too close to the sensor (you'll see it in the very center of the MAF) or you could break it even with the force of the spray. Tilt the entire intake portion vertical so the cleaner and crap will run out. Then, you can wait for it to dry (few minutes) and reinstall.

When you go to reinstall the MAF connector, make sure the rubber gasket in the connector sits flush or you won't be able to click the connector tight. If your rubber gasket has expanded due to age, you may have to use a flat tool or block of wood on the very edge of the connector (be careful not to bend the wires!!) and push it on until you hear it click.

If you want to make sure your MAF is working properly, while the car is running, disconnect the connector. If it lopes in idle and shuts off, then it is probably working. If the idle stays the same, then the MAF is most likely bad.

 

If you do the above and still no results, check your cooling system. If the coolant isnt flowing properly or you have a bad coolant temp sensor, the ECU may shift up to a higher idle because it thinks you're running a cold engine.

If the jerking is just when you are in gear then you most likely have a hydraulic issue with your transmission. Probably a burnt clutch.

 

i just had the tranny rebuilt 2 weeks ago, so i doubt thats it...its goin in for a final check friday so ill ask them about it.

 

My maxima, especially when COLD in the morning starts jerking and making loud noises as if it's about to die, then it'll stop and sound fairly smooth... and start again, it only stops when the engine is completely warmed up after about 5-10 minutes of driving. The dying sound, and the jerking when it is put in gear is horrible... Any more clues on what the culprit is. I run 93 octane, regular oil changes.. No SES code for anything concerning this! What is the next step?

 

May be an air leak after the MAF.

 

I would clean the maf as suggested, and check all your vacuum lines.