This morning I got up and pulled my car around to the side of my house and washed it. The car started fine, I did n't hear any noises. I came inside took a shower and whatever, and I went back out about 3 hours later. When I turned my car on to pull it in the garage it cut off immediately after it started. I tried again with the same result. The third time I started it and then put my foot on the gas a little to keep the idle up. My friend who was behind the car told me a lot of smoke came out of the muffler. When i took my foot off the brake the car stalled out again. I left it there and went out. About 3 hours later I came back and the car started fine. I took it out and drove it around and didn't notice any problems. Then I put my car in the garage and checked the engine codes because the light was on.

0104...0304...0504...

My speedometer hasn't been working lately, and my gas gauge is way off. These 2 problems started when I installed the import intelligence layovers, so I figured it was just a matter of reinstalling the needles again. Sometimes when I'm driving my car shakes, like the engine pauses for a second. It does sometimes at red lights too. I change my original spark plugs to bosch platinum +4 about 2 months ago. Could this be causing the problems.

Next, my car was idleing about 1200 rpm so I adjusted it down to about 900. After i adjusted it, my check engine light started blinking. It wasn't in a fast/slow pattern...I didn't seem to have a pattern, just blinking. Then it stopped and the light went off. I turned my car off and then back on and the check engine light came on normally...not blinking.

If really confused about what to do. My car is a 95 GXE with almost 90,000 miles on it. All help is greatly appreciated.

 

Check your mass air flow harness and make sure it's on tight. While you're checking it out, you might as well spray on electrical parts cleaner and clean off any corrosion.

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code 0104 points to a problem with the Vehicle Speed Sensor or the associated wiring.

The Vehicle Speed Sensor installed on the transaxle. The part inside the transaxle has a plastic gear which is driven by the internal parts of the transaxle. The part outside is a signal generator which produces a square wave of amplitude 5.2 volts and frequency proportional to vehicle speed.

Remove the VSS, attach a voltmeter to the electric leads, and spin the gear
by hand. If you get zero volts, it's dead.

One owner discovered his VSS was not fully seated in the transaxle. He just tapped it inward, and retightened the 10mm mounting bolt.

For more information please refer to the Chilton repair manual (page 4-22) or the Haynes repair manual (page 6-16).

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code 0304 points to a problem with the Knock Sensor. The KS is attached to the cylinder block. It senses engine knocking using a piezoelectric element. A knocking vibration from the cylinder block is senses as vibrational pressure. This pressure is converted into a voltage signal and sent to the Engine Control Module (The computer).

This malfunction is detected when an excessively high or low voltage from the KS is entered to the ECM. Possible causes include...
- the harness or connector (The KS circuit is open or shorted).
- the KS

The KS may be checked with an ohmmeter.

1) Raise the hood. View the engine from the driver's fender. Look into
the deep valley between the cylinder banks and below the intake manifold.
Identify the KS as a black item fastened to the block by a single vertical
bolt. A wire harness wrapped in black leads toward you, out of the valley.
That is the KS sub-harness.

2) Follow the KS sub-harness to it's nearest connector. This is connector F121.
It is located near the upper right-hand corner of the valve cover of the forward cylinder bank, as viewed from the front of the car.

3) Disconnect F121. You have to do a "press the latch and wiggle and
pull" to disconnect it. F121 has only two pins; if you see more than two
pins, you have the wrong connector. Use a digital ohmmeter capable of
measuring more than 10 Megohms. You want to measure the pins of F121, not
the sockets of the matching connector. Measure the resistance between a
good ground (such as the battery negative terminal) and pin #2 of connector
F121. On my car this is the highest of the two pins, the one closest to
the front of the car. The factory spec is 500 - 620 Kohms.

The manual says you have to remove the intake manifold to replace the KS. However, I think that a person with good dexterity and a 10mm ratcheting box wrench could replace the KS without disturbing the manifold.

Important note: the dealer can do a more thorough test with his CONSULT electronic tester. The resistance test described here is a useful but limited test. A Knock Sensor which passes this test is not guaranteed to be good. However, a Knock Sensor which fails this test is definitely bad.

 

Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.

This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery

 

I just read this thread and have to say....A GREAT BIG SHOUT OUT TO D. B. MArtin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yu Da Man

 

This symptom is consistent with the DTC 0104. Your Vehicle Speed Sensor may be faulty or disconnected. One Maxima owner discovered his VSS was not properly seated in the transaxle housing. He gently tapped it back in, tightened the retaining bolt, and that solved the problem.

 

Need I say More....without individuals like Mr. Martin who are always willing to offer assistance....we would be worse off with our issues and problems.

Thank You
Robert

 

Adjusting the idle was the wrong thing to do. The high idle rate was a symptom of a defect. You should have diagnosed and repaired the problem. Instead of fixing something you simply masked the symptom and possibly aggravated the problem.

The high idle could be caused by a lot of things. I suggest you look for any kind of vacuum leak such as a split, broken, or disconnected vacuum line. Check for a stuck-open Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve. Make a careful examination for cracks in the black plastic duct which conveys filtered air to the throttle body. Check your Idle Air Control Valve - Auxiliary Air Control valve.

 

it truly amazes me how some people can actually sit back and answer questions with no problem. even if they know they've answered the question 100 times before, they give an answer and not say just search for it. Thank you Daniel.

I have a few quick questions...where are those 2 control valves located?
lets say one of my sensors/harnesses/connectors etc are bad. would i have to take it to the dealership or a car repair shop to get them replaced or are these parts available in a car parts store such as pep boys? my friend's dad used to do repairs on all types of cars so i'm sure he could help me replace any faulty parts, it's just a matter of finding the faulty parts and buying them if possible. also, where do i got a voltmeter and ohmmeter from? any idea how much they cost?

thank you again.

 

The most common kind of meter is called a Multimeter and it measures volts, ohms, and other things too. You can buy a Multimeter at Radio Shack, Sears, and lots of other places. The cost is like the cost of a pair of shoes: anywhere from $7 to $1000, depending on quality. I suggest you avoid anything under $20.

Whenever someone asks a "where is" question, that tells me they don't have a manual. If you are even half-way serious about fixing your own car you need a manual. I consider Haynes to be superior to Chilton, but either will do. Buy one!

A problem with a harness or connector is usually repaired with a soldering gun and black plastic electrician's tape. Most sensors are available from auto parts stores. If you have to resort to a dealer consider purchasing by mail order from a dealer which sells genuine Nissan parts at discount prices.

 

I plan on buying a haynes manual when i go to the store, otherwise i will be completely lost...thanks for recommended a superior manual...Thanks for everything. I'll let you know what happens.

 

Simple solution...Sell the Maxima and buy a bike!

-20's on my Max-

 

A flashing mil light indicates a severe misfire.

 

a severe misfire in what? how can i fix it?

 

The misfire could be in one cylinder or all six. The shaking you are feeling is probaly because of it. Did the shaking start after you put in the new plugs? If it did, then check that first. The engine was not designed to use the +4 plugs so that can easily be the problem.

 

Hey D. B. Martin, I have the 0104 and 0304 codes on right now, would a loose battery cable cause those to go off? I tightened it down and reset the ECU and the light is off for right now, but just wondering if you know if that might have caused the problems in the first place
Thanks in advance for you help, and all the times you hooked me up before

 

who can help this guy?