I had a question for you guys...mainly JClaw:
I had my bars installed a while ago, and went to the track for the first time with them. I got more wheelhop that night than I have ever gotten before. I even got a lot of it shifting into 2nd. I'm worried they may have been installed incorrectly, although I thought we followed the directions. What could cause me to get MORE wheelhop? Is there any way you (JClaw) could email me another copy of the directions to njdrymalski@netscape.com ?

Thank you.

 

Anyone have any updates on how to fix the noise issues. Ive tried numerous things so far all to no avail...... loctite, tightening the bolts while the suspension was unloaded, then loaded. Those bolts just keep working themselves loose at the LCA end. Im beginning to wonder if no matter how hard I torque the bolts the car is not going to like it and work them loose somehow. Maybe the LCA's werent ment to be secured like that.......... Anyway my only other thought is to add more loctite and add a second locking nut. I guess im just wondering where the noise is really coming from. Is it the bolt moving around in the hole of the LCA or, in my case the bar rests firmly on the front end of the LCA as another contact point. Either way we need to fix this bc the car sounds the crap pulling slowly into a parking lot........ like somethings gonna fall apart. I like VQuick's homemade rubber bushing idea if thats a possibility. Thanks guys

 

The main reason for the noise is because of the bolt moving around in that big hole on the LCA. The homemade rubber bushing should fix it. I haven't had a chance to do this because of the extreme heat that we've all been getting across the nation. I just don't want to work under my car when its 115 degrees and 95% humidity out. This will be a project set aside for the fall or early winter for me. For now, I'll just ignore the annoying popping noise.

For those who can weld, another idea would be to weld a piece of high grade metal to the LCA. This piece will serve as a bracket where the traction bar will attach to on the LCA end.

 

A couple of weeks ago I tightened everything and applied some thread locker on the rear ends. I took a 600 mile road trip last weekend (sans AC since it's broken, so I had the window open the whole way) and I haven't heard any noises! I was driving on some really rough roads in Minneapolis too. I think I'm still getting minor noises like creaking when I get into the car, for example, but otherwise nothing like it was before (no clunks over bumps). It'll probably come back, though!

 

Good call. Tom, we should do that. And refab that pus$ @ss front bracket too. Sorry, JClaw but I speak the truth.

 

When I visit my buddy in Vegas, we're going to do the same thing. He knows his stuff. He custom made a hidden hitch for my truck before. This one will be so easy!

I also think that if you weld that bracket towards the spindle end of the LCA, it will solve a lot of clearance issues, ie: hitting the oil filter.

 

But you will lose turning radius. Its a compromise. On a track only car I'd definitely do it that way.

 

Your absolutely right! Perhaps if I can figure it out so that the tire won't rub against it, I can hopefully get a good balance of that.

 

The way I have it now, with the short oil filter, is perfect. Plenty of filter clearance and the bar is just out of the way of the tire at full turn.

Yeah Broaner, when we can both find time let's do a little welding! And I gotta remember to weigh in at the TA next time I'm over there.

 

I am also using a short filter now but short filter means short oil change intervals. I'm using synthetic motor oil and I'd like to be able to go up to about 7k before the next oil change. The only way that can happen is by using extended life filters, but they come in a taller form. This is what made me come up with the idea of welding the bracket to the LCA. Plus, it will definitely resolve the issue of the bolt moving around in this hole, which is not intended for this type of modification in the first place. It should also eliminate those annoying noise that we are all experiencing. Plus, I think it will make the traction bar more effective because of how it will attach to the LCA with the bracket.

Let me know how it works out for you guys. I'm going to get new LCA's first since the bushings in mine are pretty much gone. Then I will have these pieces of metal brackets welded on. Let me know the thickness of material you will be opting for. I was thinking of an L bracket.

 

1/4" flat steel is definitely a must for the type of stress these things see. An L would be good but difficult to conform to the contrours of the LCA at that points. A straight piece could be scribed to fit snuggly against the arm. Then I would want to strengthen the bracket with several triagular gussets. Any deflection could result in unpredictable handling at the limit and thus create a dangerous car. Also deflection will reduce their abilities to work as they should. But when it comes to suspension I generally do things way overkill take what I say with a grain of salt. My homepage generally demonstrates the overkillishness that I find myself obsessing over always.

 

JCaw I STILL DID NOT RECEIVE MY TRACTION BARS YOU PROBABLY SHIPPED THEM TO THE WRONG ADDRESS. PLEASE REPLY BECAUSE I FEEL LIKE I WASTED $169 FOR A BUNCH OF HEADACHE.

 

How much would you charge me if I send you a set of new LCA's to weld these pieces on?

 

Is JClaw even reading this thread anymore, I wonder?

 

I wonder the same.

Please don't type in all caps. Have you PM'ed him?

DR, I'm going to have to think about that one a bit. I'd like to do Tom's first and determine the difficulty before I commit to anything. I'm definitely interested in doing that for you though.

 

Driving some friends around last night, my car sounds fine at speed (no clunks over bumps) but at 5-10MPH in parking lots and on turns, holy guacamole it sounds like a mattress on wheels. The traction bars on the car go creak creak squeak!

My suspension is bottoming out like crazy these days. Largely that's the springs I have but I'm a little worried that my Illuminas might be fading.

 

Thanks........let me know.

 

Hey Broaner,

Any news on the LCA mod for the traction bars?

 

Tom has been out of town so we haven't gotten to it. I'll try to lean on him for next week if he actually does wanna do it.

 

Ok...thanks.

 

I'm back. I might be up for this Labor Day weekend if you have time, Broan.

 

Am I missing something, or is it worth considering to weld a couple tabs to the front of the LCA and effectively shorten the traction bars? I would think this would eliminate the bolt hole size, creaking, oil filter clearance issues. It would make it a non-bolt on mod., but any welding shop could fab up the parts for you easily. Just a thought, but I'm no suspension expert.

 

Hey guys,

Traction bars have been working great since day 1. I just got a new set of new tires and had my alignment checked (alignment was done 8 mon. ago) and just discovered that the toe setting is off spec (toe'd in). Before installing the traction bars (6 mon. ago), alignment was done as mentioned above. I'm wondering how the toe adjustment was off. The only thing I can think of is that the traction bar (at current adjustment) is causing the toe misalignment. I'm planning on removing them and having alignment checked again. Anyone experienced something like this?

 

I have a set that are still in the box that I have not had the time to install. would sell for what I paid.

 

Anyone have an answer for this?

 

The basic design of traction bars for the Maxima is to fix the LCA to prevent rearward deflection during hard acceleration. The problem is, depending on the amount of tension on the bars and the connection point on the LCA relative to the radiator support, they can easily toe out or toe in the front wheels. I know when I installed mine, it took very little tension before you could actually see the front wheels toe out. The mistake people make is to put too much tension on the traction bars and change the geometry of the front suspension and steering. Not many people have access to an alignment rack to set the alignment at the same time of loading the traction bars. I don't drive with mine on unless I'm heading to the track. I only tighten them to the point of taking out the slack without pulling the LCA out of alignment.