Any how-to's on rear brakes?
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Joined: Jan 2006
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Any how-to's on rear brakes?
Hey,
Did a search through Google for the max forum and found the rear brake how to page is no longer available.
I know the rear brakes are funky because of the parking brake. Anyone know of a website that has a how-to on replacing the rear brakes?
What tools do I need (don't know names) and how long does it take on average your first time.
Thanks!
Did a search through Google for the max forum and found the rear brake how to page is no longer available.
I know the rear brakes are funky because of the parking brake. Anyone know of a website that has a how-to on replacing the rear brakes?
What tools do I need (don't know names) and how long does it take on average your first time.
Thanks!
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 14
It's really not that hard. But you do need a special tool. Well, atleast on my 99 SE I did. The pistons are rifled.(if that is what it is really called) They take a special 4 tooth key to be turned in. AutoZone or O'Rieleys(sp?) should have this tool. You can rent it. Around here all you need is a $40 deposite that you get back once you return the tool. But the price may vary for where you live. Some stores may also carry a special adaptor for a 3/8 rachet. Do NOT get that! It is a serious pain in the ***! Trust me, I know. I tried it and it is the gayness. But other than that it's just like any basic brake job. If you need any more help just post your questions. I'm sure alot of people will be more than happy to help.
Oh,
Tools you will need
3/8 rachet
14mm 17mm sockets I belive
Caliper Tool
Brake lube
Maybe a rubber mallet to get the calipers off the rotor if they are giving you a hard time
And obviously the jack and jackstands to get the car in the air
And I would give it atleast an hour and a half if its your first time if you use the tool.
Oh,
Tools you will need
3/8 rachet
14mm 17mm sockets I belive
Caliper Tool
Brake lube
Maybe a rubber mallet to get the calipers off the rotor if they are giving you a hard time
And obviously the jack and jackstands to get the car in the air
And I would give it atleast an hour and a half if its your first time if you use the tool.
they are not funky. Just make sure the parking brake is off when you are dong the rears. They are just like the front, but inorder to push the piston in you will need the rear brake caliper tool. Its a little cube and it fits on a 3/8ths drive ratchet...its under 10 buck at the parts store. If you do not want to buy this you can always use a pair of needle nose pliars to recess the rear pistons. Its easy.
I did a pretty good write up on it. I made the write up for removing the rotors, so you can skip some of it.
Tools needed:
Jack & Jack Stands
Four-way or another way to get lugs off
10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets and ratchet
rear caliper compressor (AutoZone $10)
wd40
Instructions:
1) Loosen rear wheel lugs with car on the ground.
2) Jack up rear end of the car and place jack stands in appropriate places.
3) Finish taking off rear wheels.
4) Remove the E-brake line from the rear caliper. There is a 10mm bolt on the trailing arm that you will need to remove. Just follow the E-brake line back to the front of the car and you will see it in the rear wheel well area. This will give you some slack in the line to make unhooking the cable a lot easier.
5) Remove the caliper. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in place. They are sort of tough to break free. After the bolts are out, lift up on the caliper. You may need to use a seesaw motion to get the caliper off. Just be careful with the brake fluid line. Once it’s off place it on the ground.
6) Remove the brake pads. Pay close attention to which on was on the inside and which was on the outside.
7) Remove the torque member. The TQ Member is the final piece holding the rotor on. There are 2 17mm bolts holding the torque member on. These are a son of a b---- to break free. Don’t be afraid to use some force. Once the TQ member is off lay it on the ground.
8) Finally take off your old rotor and put the new one on. Then start reassembling.
9) When you put the caliper back on you will need to compress the piston with the rear caliper compressor. Spray wd40 around the piston boot so it does not bind. While the wd40 is penetrating, loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap but leave it on. This is to decrease backpressure in the brake fluid system. Backpressure can blow a seal. Turn the piston clockwise as far as it will go. Make sure that one of the grooves on the piston will line up with the alignment pin on the back of the inside brake pad. I am not sure if yours will have these, but mine did. Now just slide the caliper in place and put the bolts in.
Notes:
Make sure your parking brake is off.
Work one side at a time. This way you have a control to look at if you get lost on reassemble.
10mm bolts are not strong. They only need be tightened a little bit past snug.
After everything is put back together you need to set the rear brakes. Do this by engaging and releasing the parking brake about 10 times or until it feels normal again.
Total time for some one not familiar 2 to 3 hours.
Tools needed:
Jack & Jack Stands
Four-way or another way to get lugs off
10mm, 12mm, 17mm sockets and ratchet
rear caliper compressor (AutoZone $10)
wd40
Instructions:
1) Loosen rear wheel lugs with car on the ground.
2) Jack up rear end of the car and place jack stands in appropriate places.
3) Finish taking off rear wheels.
4) Remove the E-brake line from the rear caliper. There is a 10mm bolt on the trailing arm that you will need to remove. Just follow the E-brake line back to the front of the car and you will see it in the rear wheel well area. This will give you some slack in the line to make unhooking the cable a lot easier.
5) Remove the caliper. There are 2 12mm bolts holding the caliper in place. They are sort of tough to break free. After the bolts are out, lift up on the caliper. You may need to use a seesaw motion to get the caliper off. Just be careful with the brake fluid line. Once it’s off place it on the ground.
6) Remove the brake pads. Pay close attention to which on was on the inside and which was on the outside.
7) Remove the torque member. The TQ Member is the final piece holding the rotor on. There are 2 17mm bolts holding the torque member on. These are a son of a b---- to break free. Don’t be afraid to use some force. Once the TQ member is off lay it on the ground.
8) Finally take off your old rotor and put the new one on. Then start reassembling.
9) When you put the caliper back on you will need to compress the piston with the rear caliper compressor. Spray wd40 around the piston boot so it does not bind. While the wd40 is penetrating, loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap but leave it on. This is to decrease backpressure in the brake fluid system. Backpressure can blow a seal. Turn the piston clockwise as far as it will go. Make sure that one of the grooves on the piston will line up with the alignment pin on the back of the inside brake pad. I am not sure if yours will have these, but mine did. Now just slide the caliper in place and put the bolts in.
Notes:
Make sure your parking brake is off.
Work one side at a time. This way you have a control to look at if you get lost on reassemble.
10mm bolts are not strong. They only need be tightened a little bit past snug.
After everything is put back together you need to set the rear brakes. Do this by engaging and releasing the parking brake about 10 times or until it feels normal again.
Total time for some one not familiar 2 to 3 hours.
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