ABS light is solid on
#1
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ABS light is solid on
My ABS light is on and will not go off, even after turning the car off for a few hours. I tried to diagnose it using directions that I found from a search:
Now here's the problem... I drove around for about 5 min. at over 20 mph and came back into my garage and performed the steps above, however the ABS light stayed solid on.
Do I have to drive 20+ mph and once I slow down to a stop, NOT accelerate again? The reason I ask this is because I drove 20+mph for 5 min. but then slowed down to under 20 mph to turn on to my street... then accelerated to over 20 mph for about 5 seconds and then came to a stop when I turned in to my garage... does that mess up the process?
If that is not the case then what else could it be? I know that I grounded the correct pin from the Consult port (connected an electric wire from the 4th port to a ground source).
Please advise.
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
Ok Troops, here we go: Without the use of a Nissan Consult II or III, it is still possible to diagnose and ABS problem. It is one Hell of alot easier with the Consult because the ABS system is "protected code", meaning an OBD II scanner cannot access or reset it, but you can obtain the code and clear it by breifly driving the car over 20 MPH, then parking it and turning the ingnition off. You then attach a jumper wire from the Consult data link connector #4 (beside the fuse panel) to a suitable ground. After connecting the ground, turn the ignition to on (DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL DURING THIS PROCEEDURE), and after 3 seconds the ABS MIL is start to blink out the malfuction code. Long blinks are "10's" and short blinks are "1's"; so three long blinks followed by two short ones is a code 32. The first code you will see will be a "12" which is the "self diagnostic start code" indicating that the process has begun. There may be more than one code as there are over 25 possible malfuction codes, starting (for unknown reasons) with the number 12 "start code". Once you have the code number(s), they can be cross referenced in a FSM for the correct diagnostic procedure to correct the fault.
After fixing the fault, the codes can be erased by starting the self diagnostic process above, but disconnect the ground jumper three or more times for a period of one second each within a 12.5 second time frame (no, I am not making this up). You will know that you have triggered the erase mode as the ABS light will stay on for a bit and then go off on its own.
I told you the Consult was easier...........................
After fixing the fault, the codes can be erased by starting the self diagnostic process above, but disconnect the ground jumper three or more times for a period of one second each within a 12.5 second time frame (no, I am not making this up). You will know that you have triggered the erase mode as the ABS light will stay on for a bit and then go off on its own.
I told you the Consult was easier...........................
Do I have to drive 20+ mph and once I slow down to a stop, NOT accelerate again? The reason I ask this is because I drove 20+mph for 5 min. but then slowed down to under 20 mph to turn on to my street... then accelerated to over 20 mph for about 5 seconds and then came to a stop when I turned in to my garage... does that mess up the process?
If that is not the case then what else could it be? I know that I grounded the correct pin from the Consult port (connected an electric wire from the 4th port to a ground source).
Please advise.
#3
Im trying to do the same thing. Read the code and reset it, but im not sure what im suppost to be shorting. On my maxima 2000 i go to the fuse box and it the connector looks like the one in the haynes book, but its go up and down not side by side. Yet i try to short it like you mentioned. My night remains on? Is there a picture with instruction of how to do it. Please it will help us alot. By the way this site rocks.
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