how does a max hold up against a celica, evo, those stock turbo neons?
hey nothing wrong with a dodge... Just get a good dodge... dodge is good for one thing... TRUCKS.... i have both... but no matter how fast a SRT-4 is.. it is still a NEON and i will never own one... it may be fast but it will still brake down faster and will not last as long as the max..
Originally Posted by aykmax
i dont care which one of these cars is faster would u rather have a srt neon or a maxima, think about it, a neon, its a dodge
Originally Posted by blacck_dragon
SRT 4 are FAST but i was able to keep up with my CAI, Y pipe, and exhaust system. ON the starts they will be ahead of you, but usually around 3rd gear the max pulls hard and on the highway i was head to head we raced for about an hour in the Montreal area on the highway. Dont bother with the other cars u listed hehe there not worth your gas $$$$ LOL
Originally Posted by fieros***z
You are lying. I own both, and my SRT4 clicked off a 13.7@101 BONE STOCK with ~1500 miles on it- my 96 max with cai, y-pipe/b-pipe, cat back doesn't touch it, even with the SRT bone stock. After 20+ races between the SRT and the maxima, switching drivers back and forth, its obvious that the SRT is faster no matter what your boltons. gonna have to go FI or nitrous to stand a chance
Originally Posted by Geophrum
hey nothing wrong with a dodge... Just get a good dodge... dodge is good for one thing... TRUCKS.... i have both... but no matter how fast a SRT-4 is.. it is still a NEON and i will never own one... it may be fast but it will still brake down faster and will not last as long as the max..
Originally Posted by blacck_dragon
Believe what you want, like I said on start an SRT will burn you i was racing on the "highway" (not boulevards or thoroughfares) thus, it is rolling start from 80kh to 180kmh about. The max was able to keep up even head to head at times. Other members above posted similar results when it is a "rolling start". Perhaps your lying :P
Having a sports car of my own, I'm a little biased, but here goes.
You can make any car (except perhaps a Yugo) go fast. The only question is what it's going to take to get there.
There are 2 rotor 1.3L rotaries that pull 8 sec 1/4 miles. There are 3 rotor cars that do the same.
I have a mostly stock 1.1L rotary with a race header, custom exhaust, and removed emissions. I'm about 200 pounds lighter than a stock Rx-7. I can take a stock 95 Maxima GLE. To do that cost me all of $400 worth of exhaust/headers, several hours of my time, and $2800 12 years ago for the car itself.
If I had an extra $5K right now, I could take that same Rx-7, turbocharge it, and be putting down 400HP at the RW in a 2000 pound car. I would take down celicas, evos, SRT-4s, and several other cars.
I guess my point is this:
You can make your car as fast as you're willing to spend - even to the point where it's ridiculously dangerous to drive your car. Personally, I enjoy driving my stock GLE. It has ***** when I need it, and is comfortable.
I also enjoy driving my Rx-7. It has ***** when I need it and for a 22 year-old sports car, it's quite nice.
Am I okay not beating everything on the road? Yup. Am I still modding my 7? Yup. I have a mildly street ported engine just about finished. That will get me up to 200 HP in a 2000 pound car. Plenty of pep. Will there be cars faster than mine? Definitely. However, I'll be able to take plenty of cars and most importantly - I'll have a fun car that I enjoy driving.
If you want to be the fastest car on the road, you'll constantly be dumping thousands of dollars into your car and without fail, will constantly NOT be the fastest car on the road. I realize many of you are younger (I'm 32) and the quest for speed is all-consuming. The sooner you realize that there will always be someone faster on the road, the happier you'll be, and the more money you'll be able to put aside for things that matter - like a down payment on a house
Cheers.
You can make any car (except perhaps a Yugo) go fast. The only question is what it's going to take to get there.
There are 2 rotor 1.3L rotaries that pull 8 sec 1/4 miles. There are 3 rotor cars that do the same.
I have a mostly stock 1.1L rotary with a race header, custom exhaust, and removed emissions. I'm about 200 pounds lighter than a stock Rx-7. I can take a stock 95 Maxima GLE. To do that cost me all of $400 worth of exhaust/headers, several hours of my time, and $2800 12 years ago for the car itself.
If I had an extra $5K right now, I could take that same Rx-7, turbocharge it, and be putting down 400HP at the RW in a 2000 pound car. I would take down celicas, evos, SRT-4s, and several other cars.
I guess my point is this:
You can make your car as fast as you're willing to spend - even to the point where it's ridiculously dangerous to drive your car. Personally, I enjoy driving my stock GLE. It has ***** when I need it, and is comfortable.
I also enjoy driving my Rx-7. It has ***** when I need it and for a 22 year-old sports car, it's quite nice.
Am I okay not beating everything on the road? Yup. Am I still modding my 7? Yup. I have a mildly street ported engine just about finished. That will get me up to 200 HP in a 2000 pound car. Plenty of pep. Will there be cars faster than mine? Definitely. However, I'll be able to take plenty of cars and most importantly - I'll have a fun car that I enjoy driving.
If you want to be the fastest car on the road, you'll constantly be dumping thousands of dollars into your car and without fail, will constantly NOT be the fastest car on the road. I realize many of you are younger (I'm 32) and the quest for speed is all-consuming. The sooner you realize that there will always be someone faster on the road, the happier you'll be, and the more money you'll be able to put aside for things that matter - like a down payment on a house

Cheers.
Originally Posted by pratch
Having a sports car of my own, I'm a little biased, but here goes.
You can make any car (except perhaps a Yugo) go fast. The only question is what it's going to take to get there.
There are 2 rotor 1.3L rotaries that pull 8 sec 1/4 miles. There are 3 rotor cars that do the same.
I have a mostly stock 1.1L rotary with a race header, custom exhaust, and removed emissions. I'm about 200 pounds lighter than a stock Rx-7. I can take a stock 95 Maxima GLE. To do that cost me all of $400 worth of exhaust/headers, several hours of my time, and $2800 12 years ago for the car itself.
If I had an extra $5K right now, I could take that same Rx-7, turbocharge it, and be putting down 400HP at the RW in a 2000 pound car. I would take down celicas, evos, SRT-4s, and several other cars.
I guess my point is this:
You can make your car as fast as you're willing to spend - even to the point where it's ridiculously dangerous to drive your car. Personally, I enjoy driving my stock GLE. It has ***** when I need it, and is comfortable.
I also enjoy driving my Rx-7. It has ***** when I need it and for a 22 year-old sports car, it's quite nice.
Am I okay not beating everything on the road? Yup. Am I still modding my 7? Yup. I have a mildly street ported engine just about finished. That will get me up to 200 HP in a 2000 pound car. Plenty of pep. Will there be cars faster than mine? Definitely. However, I'll be able to take plenty of cars and most importantly - I'll have a fun car that I enjoy driving.
If you want to be the fastest car on the road, you'll constantly be dumping thousands of dollars into your car and without fail, will constantly NOT be the fastest car on the road. I realize many of you are younger (I'm 32) and the quest for speed is all-consuming. The sooner you realize that there will always be someone faster on the road, the happier you'll be, and the more money you'll be able to put aside for things that matter - like a down payment on a house
Cheers.
You can make any car (except perhaps a Yugo) go fast. The only question is what it's going to take to get there.
There are 2 rotor 1.3L rotaries that pull 8 sec 1/4 miles. There are 3 rotor cars that do the same.
I have a mostly stock 1.1L rotary with a race header, custom exhaust, and removed emissions. I'm about 200 pounds lighter than a stock Rx-7. I can take a stock 95 Maxima GLE. To do that cost me all of $400 worth of exhaust/headers, several hours of my time, and $2800 12 years ago for the car itself.
If I had an extra $5K right now, I could take that same Rx-7, turbocharge it, and be putting down 400HP at the RW in a 2000 pound car. I would take down celicas, evos, SRT-4s, and several other cars.
I guess my point is this:
You can make your car as fast as you're willing to spend - even to the point where it's ridiculously dangerous to drive your car. Personally, I enjoy driving my stock GLE. It has ***** when I need it, and is comfortable.
I also enjoy driving my Rx-7. It has ***** when I need it and for a 22 year-old sports car, it's quite nice.
Am I okay not beating everything on the road? Yup. Am I still modding my 7? Yup. I have a mildly street ported engine just about finished. That will get me up to 200 HP in a 2000 pound car. Plenty of pep. Will there be cars faster than mine? Definitely. However, I'll be able to take plenty of cars and most importantly - I'll have a fun car that I enjoy driving.
If you want to be the fastest car on the road, you'll constantly be dumping thousands of dollars into your car and without fail, will constantly NOT be the fastest car on the road. I realize many of you are younger (I'm 32) and the quest for speed is all-consuming. The sooner you realize that there will always be someone faster on the road, the happier you'll be, and the more money you'll be able to put aside for things that matter - like a down payment on a house

Cheers.
this guy has got it right, i guess with age comes wisdom
I hate to say that I am amazed at the original question, but I am. I am currently a Gen IV Maxima owner and an 2004 EVO VIII owner. I sold a 500+ Rwhp 300ZX TT and bought the EVO. I love the Maxima as my daily driver, as far as performance goes, there is no comparison between it and an EVO. The EVO is capable of running 12.9's bone stock with some race gas mixed in and great driving. I am serious too, of course this only applies to the new EVO IX!!! Driving the EVO on a race track or in an auto cross event is when it trully shines. You can also go off road and do some rally racing too. Again, I love my Maxima but more for long trips and cruising.
With the following mods my EVO ran 12.073@115 at the 1/4 mile drag strip in Montgomery Alabama a few weeks ago. BTW, I had to drive it 3 hours at 90-110Mph from Florida to get there. I ran three times down the strip and drove it back 3 hours again at 90-110 and got home that night. It was the 5th weekend in a row of Drag strip use and the 2nd weekend in a row on that same trip back and forth to Montgomery.
MODs:
HKS Racing Suction Intake
Blitz SBC-id (Set to 21.9psi)
Helix Catless midpipe/ down pipe
Turbo XS Catback
RMR Upper and Lower intercooler piping
HKS 264 intake & exhaust cams
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Snow performance w/ 100%Methanol Injection.
Turbo Trix Custom tune


Here is a vid I am in the middle White EVO against a 350Z at the 1/8th mile track:
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....6-E98FFB84AB4B
If you would like to see more on my EVO check it out here:
http://registry.evolutionm.net/viewride.php?vid=4461
With the following mods my EVO ran 12.073@115 at the 1/4 mile drag strip in Montgomery Alabama a few weeks ago. BTW, I had to drive it 3 hours at 90-110Mph from Florida to get there. I ran three times down the strip and drove it back 3 hours again at 90-110 and got home that night. It was the 5th weekend in a row of Drag strip use and the 2nd weekend in a row on that same trip back and forth to Montgomery.
MODs:
HKS Racing Suction Intake
Blitz SBC-id (Set to 21.9psi)
Helix Catless midpipe/ down pipe
Turbo XS Catback
RMR Upper and Lower intercooler piping
HKS 264 intake & exhaust cams
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Snow performance w/ 100%Methanol Injection.
Turbo Trix Custom tune


Here is a vid I am in the middle White EVO against a 350Z at the 1/8th mile track:
http://videos.streetfire.net/player....6-E98FFB84AB4B
If you would like to see more on my EVO check it out here:
http://registry.evolutionm.net/viewride.php?vid=4461
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Careful of that T-case pullin' off those 1.6's. Nice car and nice run bro.
Thanks and yes I am always mindfull of the transfer case. I hold the revs to 4.5k and slip the clutch until all of the slack is out of the diveline. I then hold it there until the second yellow light and then feed it out until I feel the car moving forward. I never have clutch smell which is the tell/ tell sign of excessive stress on the driveline components.
BTW, Did you check out the vid against the 350Z?
-Nate
Originally Posted by nathan91tt300zx
Thanks and yes I am always mindfull of the transfer case. I hold the revs to 4.5k and slip the clutch until all of the slack is out of the diveline. I then hold it there until the second yellow light and then feed it out until I feel the car moving forward. I never have clutch smell which is the tell/ tell sign of excessive stress on the driveline components.
BTW, Did you check out the vid against the 350Z?
-Nate
BTW, Did you check out the vid against the 350Z?
-Nate
Yep just watched it, I can tell from the vid you are launching it the right way (and from your description). Nice work.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
Yep just watched it, I can tell from the vid you are launching it the right way (and from your description). Nice work.
Oh and BTW, Your time in your signature looks awesome!!!
-Nate
I trapped 91.5 in the 1/8th on the 12.6 run. That was my first run in the car on the sticky tires so I didn't launch since it was my first pass on them, and on the next run I smoked my clutch so I was done for the day. It is not on video because I30tMikeD who was SUPPOSED to videotape it is a technological n00b and doesn't understand the concept of a video camera, he pressed and HELD the record button. The camera doesn't start recording until you let your thumb off the button, so he started recording after my run was finished lol. So I have a video of my car after I'm done with the run and on the brakes for a few seconds and that is it lol.
That pass was actually 12.68 @ 113.5mph, my best trap was 114.7mph, so my sig is a combination of those two passes.
That pass was actually 12.68 @ 113.5mph, my best trap was 114.7mph, so my sig is a combination of those two passes.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
I trapped 91.5 in the 1/8th on the 12.6 run. That was my first run in the car on the sticky tires so I didn't launch since it was my first pass on them, and on the next run I smoked my clutch so I was done for the day. It is not on video because I30tMikeD who was SUPPOSED to videotape it is a technological n00b and doesn't understand the concept of a video camera, he pressed and HELD the record button. The camera doesn't start recording until you let your thumb off the button, so he started recording after my run was finished lol. So I have a video of my car after I'm done with the run and on the brakes for a few seconds and that is it lol.
That pass was actually 12.68 @ 113.5mph, my best trap was 114.7mph, so my sig is a combination of those two passes.
That pass was actually 12.68 @ 113.5mph, my best trap was 114.7mph, so my sig is a combination of those two passes.
BTW, That is really funny that your friend didn't record because the same exact damn thing happened to me. My buddy recorded the two other runs that night but not the best one which was my 2nd of the 3 runs.
-Nate
Yeah he got video of my next pass that I smoked the clutch on, went 12.8 @ 100 on that one though so I've never even seen the vid myself, no point. Probably still on his camera somewhere though.
I am going to have a totally different setup in the spring though so I will never be able to make a pass with that old setup and a good clutch.
Mods at that time though were a T61/P-trim .84A/R on the hot side .70 on the cold T04S housing running just 12psi. I've run up to 15psi on pump gas but the clutch won't even hold that on a highway roll-on anymore, let alone a launch at the track. Greddy emanage controlling 8 injectors (6x 370cc and 2x850cc) and a blown headgasket because I had a wiring harness hooked up improperly so the 2x850cc injectors were not firing so I had 50-60 compression in two cylinders, and 180 in the other four.
I am going to have a totally different setup in the spring though so I will never be able to make a pass with that old setup and a good clutch.
Mods at that time though were a T61/P-trim .84A/R on the hot side .70 on the cold T04S housing running just 12psi. I've run up to 15psi on pump gas but the clutch won't even hold that on a highway roll-on anymore, let alone a launch at the track. Greddy emanage controlling 8 injectors (6x 370cc and 2x850cc) and a blown headgasket because I had a wiring harness hooked up improperly so the 2x850cc injectors were not firing so I had 50-60 compression in two cylinders, and 180 in the other four.
Originally Posted by nathan91tt300zx
Good luck with your next run.
-Nate
-Nate
Thanks I'm going to need it. If I can't get a clean pass in this summer I'm going to drive the car off a cliff lol.
Don't drive it off a cliff!
BTW, What minor mods would you recommend I do to the Max for just a little more power. I already have a JWT intake. In a un-related mod to power that is, I have the ES bushings installed (Sway Bar/ Front control arms/ ect...) and the front end is more reponsive and handles much better now.
-Nate
BTW, What minor mods would you recommend I do to the Max for just a little more power. I already have a JWT intake. In a un-related mod to power that is, I have the ES bushings installed (Sway Bar/ Front control arms/ ect...) and the front end is more reponsive and handles much better now.
-Nate
I love seasoned drivers. Nealoc even though we had a few dumb disputes on my part you always dumfound me with your knowledge maybe when I learn more you'll teach me some of that or if I hang around long enough it fall off of you and I can have it. And no max driving off a cliff without the info I read from you ceasar and a few others I would be ungodly confused. good luck as well.
and nate that is a sharp evo nice times, thats all im smart enough to understand haha.
and nate that is a sharp evo nice times, thats all im smart enough to understand haha.
Originally Posted by Apparition
I love seasoned drivers. Nealoc even though we had a few dumb disputes on my part you always dumfound me with your knowledge maybe when I learn more you'll teach me some of that or if I hang around long enough it fall off of you and I can have it. And no max driving off a cliff without the info I read from you ceasar and a few others I would be ungodly confused. good luck as well.
and nate that is a sharp evo nice times, thats all im smart enough to understand haha.
and nate that is a sharp evo nice times, thats all im smart enough to understand haha.
-Nate
Apparition,
No problem! Here goes nothing. The transfer case attaches to the transmission and connects to both the front and rear drives axles of a four-wheel/AWD vehicle. A transfer case usually has several different operating modes, controlled by the driver. i.e. The EVO with an active center diff and a controller inside the car for Snow/Gravel and Tarmac.
The transfer case routes torque from the transmission to both the front and rear axles. Depending on the design, the transfer case may provide equal amounts of torque to the front and rear axles, or the transfer case may proportion torque to the front and rear axles based on the amount of traction or slippage at the wheels. Transfer cases usually have different modes and ranges of operation.
The EVO is front-wheel biased as well as all Audi's with AWD. The Nissan Skyline GT-R's are rear-wheel biased.
Hope that this helps,
-Nate
No problem! Here goes nothing. The transfer case attaches to the transmission and connects to both the front and rear drives axles of a four-wheel/AWD vehicle. A transfer case usually has several different operating modes, controlled by the driver. i.e. The EVO with an active center diff and a controller inside the car for Snow/Gravel and Tarmac.
The transfer case routes torque from the transmission to both the front and rear axles. Depending on the design, the transfer case may provide equal amounts of torque to the front and rear axles, or the transfer case may proportion torque to the front and rear axles based on the amount of traction or slippage at the wheels. Transfer cases usually have different modes and ranges of operation.
The EVO is front-wheel biased as well as all Audi's with AWD. The Nissan Skyline GT-R's are rear-wheel biased.
Hope that this helps,
-Nate
Originally Posted by nathan91tt300zx
Apparition,
No problem! Here goes nothing. The transfer case attaches to the transmission and connects to both the front and rear drives axles of a four-wheel/AWD vehicle. A transfer case usually has several different operating modes, controlled by the driver. i.e. The EVO with an active center diff and a controller inside the car for Snow/Gravel and Tarmac.
The transfer case routes torque from the transmission to both the front and rear axles. Depending on the design, the transfer case may provide equal amounts of torque to the front and rear axles, or the transfer case may proportion torque to the front and rear axles based on the amount of traction or slippage at the wheels. Transfer cases usually have different modes and ranges of operation.
The EVO is front-wheel biased as well as all Audi's with AWD. The Nissan Skyline GT-R's are rear-wheel biased.
Hope that this helps,
-Nate
No problem! Here goes nothing. The transfer case attaches to the transmission and connects to both the front and rear drives axles of a four-wheel/AWD vehicle. A transfer case usually has several different operating modes, controlled by the driver. i.e. The EVO with an active center diff and a controller inside the car for Snow/Gravel and Tarmac.
The transfer case routes torque from the transmission to both the front and rear axles. Depending on the design, the transfer case may provide equal amounts of torque to the front and rear axles, or the transfer case may proportion torque to the front and rear axles based on the amount of traction or slippage at the wheels. Transfer cases usually have different modes and ranges of operation.
The EVO is front-wheel biased as well as all Audi's with AWD. The Nissan Skyline GT-R's are rear-wheel biased.
Hope that this helps,
-Nate
Originally Posted by nathan91tt300zx
Don't drive it off a cliff!
BTW, What minor mods would you recommend I do to the Max for just a little more power. I already have a JWT intake. In a un-related mod to power that is, I have the ES bushings installed (Sway Bar/ Front control arms/ ect...) and the front end is more reponsive and handles much better now.
-Nate
BTW, What minor mods would you recommend I do to the Max for just a little more power. I already have a JWT intake. In a un-related mod to power that is, I have the ES bushings installed (Sway Bar/ Front control arms/ ect...) and the front end is more reponsive and handles much better now.
-Nate
Definately get a Ypipe. Dyno proven and track proven ~15whp ~15wtq gain. My previous maxima went 14.87 @ 92.7 stock and with just a ypipe it went 14.46 @ 96.5, though a little of that was from better atmospheric conditions. In the same atmospheric conditions it was a solid .2-.3second gain and a good 2.5-3mph. You can get one for between $160 and $300 depending on if you want a stainless steel one or not. I got a Cattman Stainless Steel one and had it on the car for over 3 years in michigan winters and salted roads and it was still great when I took it off and sold it. They are cake to install. If your stock cat bolts aren't rusted away you can probably install one in 20 minutes if you are experienced with a wrench, 10 minutes with air tools.
neal when you say smoked the clutch, do you mean you smell clutch after a run ? my last time out, i had the clutch smell. is this driver error or something about to play out and dye ? curious ?
Originally Posted by Apparition
yes actually it helped I full understand now... You'd think I'd know that seeing as my uncle has your rival car the WRX STi Limited. Oh well my uncles a moron anyways and I've been contemplating his downfall and then I will take his car and drive to your part of sunny florida and have you teach me many wonderful things (chinese wisdom music)...
Originally Posted by Ceasars Chariot
neal when you say smoked the clutch, do you mean you smell clutch after a run ? my last time out, i had the clutch smell. is this driver error or something about to play out and dye ? curious ?
Yes there is I am just waiting for it to get warm before I start working on the car. In the next couple weeks to a month its getting torn all apart again and put back together with some new goodies including a clutch.
anyone know if stock 96 max will do with a stock mini cooper S, Scion tc and a stock BMW Z4 2.5i. looks like the max can kick all of its asses but i need a more experience option since theres also engine wear and gear ratios.
bmw z4
2.5L 184 hp i6
184 @ 6000
175@3500
2998lbs
mini cooper
1.6L 168hp I4
168@6000
162@4000
2679lbs
Scion tc
2.4L 160 hp I4
160@5700
163@4000
2970lbs
bmw z4
2.5L 184 hp i6
184 @ 6000
175@3500
2998lbs
mini cooper
1.6L 168hp I4
168@6000
162@4000
2679lbs
Scion tc
2.4L 160 hp I4
160@5700
163@4000
2970lbs
well i got a 5th gen celica... anyone. i mean ANYONE here with anything wrong with their car and with automatic will be able 2 beat it... but watch out for celica alltracs (aka gt4) those 200 hp 2 door allwheel drive rare cars will dominate... but yeah the older (1999and back) will be Extremly easy to beat as long as they are a st, gt, or gts.. but yeah... im glad i got my max now..





and going............ and going...............