i've been searching and i know the updated tensioner comes with updated guides and you can't do both through the access panel. however there seems to be disagreement about whether the tensioner can be updated without updating the guides (will the new tensioner work with old guides) and whether or not the updated tensioner will fit through the access panel. anyone who knows for sure please let me know ASAP because if i'm going to do this, it has to be tomorrow.

 

I have to say no. Ive spoken with David Burnette at South Point Nissan about this subject and he measured the new tentioner and its larger then the older one by a good amount. Therefore wont match up to the old guide.

-matt

 

Technically, it's larger, but it fits & works quite well. I've changed mine...twice, it's tough though if you have huge hands. I did a write up a long time ago on this and some other members added some ingenious ways of accomplishing the change. Try a search, you'll see it can be done.

 

so you've installed an updated tensioner twice and it worked fine for you both times? did the guides line up well with the tensioner or was it off a little bit?

 

Yes I did, I have quite a few kms on my max (450k kms or 270k miles) so they do "wear". What happens when you slide the new one is that the face of the piston does not press flat against the corresponding seat of the guide. This is because the piston on the newer tensioner is angled more upwards to prevent the oil flowing out of it when the car has been sitting for awhile. This is what causes the rattle at startup. In fact I believe the redesigned tensioner is not bigger, just the piston angle is different.

let me see if I can draw this:

New tensioner-piston face > ][ < New guide
.......................................^
flush fit

New tensioner-piston face > /[ < Original guide on engine
.......................................^
Upper edge does all of the pressure

Hope you get the idea...it's not perfect but it works both physically & financially. Tensioner kit cost me $65 Canadian I think...the only other option is engine removal & complete timing chain replacement.

One of the reason why I picked the max over the Tl ( has belt that must be replaced)

 

I have a timing chain-rattling 95 Maxima. I took off the lower steel oil pan and found black plastic rectangular shrappnel which is probably from the timing chain guide associated witht the main timing chain tensioner. Some of the black shrappnel had timing chain wear grooves worn into it.

I have read the helpful hints on replacing only the tensioner via the access cover, and that you can't replace the guide throught he small access cover.

I understand that you can't replace the guide without some major repair work to remove the timing chain cover. Reviewing Haynes and online photos I understand the reason for this is you can't get at the single pivot bolt that holds the guide in place.

I had an idea. Tell me why it would not work. Locate the position on the timing chain cover directly in front of the pivot bolt underneath the cover. Using a hole saw on a power drill, carefully cutting a half dollar sized hole through the timing chain cover. Accessing the pivot bolt through this hole to unscrew it. Now removing the guide through the access hole and install the new guide and bolt it in place through the cut hole. Tapping the hole in the timing chain cover with threads. Installing an aluminum plug to cover the hole. I think the timing chain cover is aluminum.

(The dealer says to just put in a junkyard engine or get rid of the car. )

 

dude if you can make that work I think you could set up shop and charge everyone within 100 miles a handsome fee.

hey - can you post pics of the plastic shrapnel?

 

Hm. You tried to get a power tool into the engine bay, especially on the left side, down near the engine mount? I think that would take some extreme fenagling, unless you got a snazzy miniature or bendy power tool of some kind.

 

I am not sure yet if a drill can fit in there. I did buy a right angle drill chuck over the weekend and I think it will fit in there. If i do try this method I will take some pictures of the steps.
I have pictures of the oil pan shrapnel but I haven't figured out how to post a photo. Tips?

 

Buddy, I think that's a BRILLIANT idea if you can make it work. Even if you used some other method to cut that window in the cover. I think there are some oil passages cast in there somewhere, i think that would be your only concern. Hell, you could probably epoxy a patch panel over the hole (if it wasn't round). ideally you wouldn't be back in there again if you can help it.
I love that these clowns provide acess to the tensioner but not the guide. It's like a bad joke.
I actually did something similar to replace a fuel pump on a car. The only way to get at it was to drop the tank. Some guy took a crack at cutting out the trunk floor above the pump. He was VERY careful and it worked out great. I copied what he did when mine crapped out. Tank stayed IN the car, job was done in 1/4 of the time and in my driveway.

Any luck?

 

Supposedly the '95 I have came with a junk yard replacement engine with around 76,000 miles on it (car has 181k). All kinds of tweaks but quiet as can be. I've heard of some hi-mileage timing chain issues, but then again, what engine doesn't. However, the previous (maxima.org) owner ran synthetic oil (which is fine, I never have), & now I am running Wal Marts finest 10w30 (along w/their filter). It had a Nissan filter on it. Being oil ****, a sidenote is that when I changed oils, I flushed the engine 3 times at 100, 200, 500 mi. with Wal Marts golden nectar. From now on it will be every 1500 miles. Overkill yes, cheap insurance, yes again. Wal Mart is the cheapest place to buy oil. ****in' amazing how much it's gone up. Another note is I only change filter at 10,000 mi. Oil is still plenty clean at each 1500 mi change. Timing chain?..., practically noiseless.

 

I just bought a 1995 Maxima with 214,000 miles on it. The previous owner thinks the water pump is making noise when the car is running. I think it's the timing chains rattling (after reading post on this forum).

How often do the timing chains need to be replaced?

 

Just let your engine warm up to operating temperature before you drive and you really shouldn't need to worry about it.

 

I just found out that the noise I was hearing is actually the bearing on the AC compressor. Gotta change it out.

 

My max has over 150k on it and has been rattling for a couple of years now but it is taking longer and longer for it to stop after the first crank up of the day. I am reading that the new part number for the "Chain Guide SLA kit" is 13091-31u26. I called Autozone to check on it and they advised that there are a number of tensioners and guides in the timing chain system and they were not able to reference the above part number. So question is, is that a part number I can call Nissan for or where do I get the kit? Thanks muchly!!!

 

That part number is through Nissan only.

 

my case was leaking so:
Mechanic Changed tensioner, guides, o-rings, water pump and resealed the whole case including the access panels. Don't want to ever touch this again. Cost me 1700 dollars (1600 with coupon). Yes, I could have bought a junk yard motor for 500 dollars, but who says that won't happen to that one too. Only have 110000 miles on this motor and felt it was worth fixing.

 

1700?? I hope this was done at the dealership which would come with a warranty at least??? If not, that is highway robbery. I only spent $800 to do mine including the valve covers, timing cover o-ring seals and the lower oil pan.

 

Thanks mate!

 

No, quoted higher at dealer. The positive is that I have a 2 year 24000 mile warranty on everything they touched.

tensioner, 4 guides, front crank seal, and water pump would have brought yours up a little more. Dealer only quoted me a 1 year 12000 mile warranty. I like the 2 year better.

I know a guy that would have pulled the motor, fixed everything for like 800. I liked the fact of the warranty and oem parts were used.

 

Damn Im glad I do my own work.

 

Agreed!

 

I had my water pump replaced in May, and I ordered the new tensioner from Nissan which comes with 2 new guides, I dropped it off at the shop doing the work, and he claimed that he could not use the "new" style tensioner with the old guides. And in order to replace the guides as we know is major work. He reused my tensioner, and when the car sits without running for longer than a day, I a hear a rattle for a few seconds. However I fear that the entire thing might need to come apart to deal with the "o-rings" ( I think that is the problem) since the oil leak seems to be getting worse from that area........If those o-rings need to be replaced, does that mean my engine needs to be pulled to do the job?

Zack

 

Me, too. And I'm glad I used Mobil-1 from the first oil change. I'm at 200,000 miles and counting with (knock on wood) no rattling from the timing chiain.