Help with my 99SE 5spd....Newbie to Max's
Help with my 99SE 5spd....Newbie to Max's
Hello everyone, I'm kinda new to maxima's and therefore new to this site. I just purchased my car ~ 3 weeks ago from a guy who pointed me to this site for help and since then I've been loggin on like every night.
My cars specs are 99 Max SE 5 spd with a Cold air intake(don't know brand) and a warpspeed Y pipe.
Anyway, the car I was told had a bad 02 sensor and therefore the check engine light was on. The seller was planning on getting this fixed but he ended up giving me the o2 sensor for me to put on myself (long story) Anyway, one of the things I noticed was that when I floored the car it starts out fine then around 3-5k rpm it starts acting real weird. I hope I can describe this right but it starts to almost sputter like the engine is missing or something, along with this it makes this poping sound from the engine bay, and if I keep going the check engine light starts blinking, anyway at first I thought to my self maybe it is the 02 sensor??? but tonight I replaced that thing and took her out for a spin and saddly same thing. Mind you other that this it drives great. Even if I accelerate pretty hard it pulls great most of the time. These symptoms are almost a sure when I step on it all the way and on and off being aggressive but not floored.
Now prior to replacing the sensor when I had autozone check the code it pulled up the 02 sensor and someother manufacture code that they couldn't tell me what it was. The check engine light is still on after the replacement and I haven't been by the zone yet. I will get the codes for you experts out there tommorow.
I would appreciate any help!! Thank-you for putting up with my long windedness... I'll get back with you tomorrow as soon as I can run by autozone and get a code. I know a guy who can reset the codes for me as well. Please advise me if I should do this.
Thanks
sjsamuel
My cars specs are 99 Max SE 5 spd with a Cold air intake(don't know brand) and a warpspeed Y pipe.
Anyway, the car I was told had a bad 02 sensor and therefore the check engine light was on. The seller was planning on getting this fixed but he ended up giving me the o2 sensor for me to put on myself (long story) Anyway, one of the things I noticed was that when I floored the car it starts out fine then around 3-5k rpm it starts acting real weird. I hope I can describe this right but it starts to almost sputter like the engine is missing or something, along with this it makes this poping sound from the engine bay, and if I keep going the check engine light starts blinking, anyway at first I thought to my self maybe it is the 02 sensor??? but tonight I replaced that thing and took her out for a spin and saddly same thing. Mind you other that this it drives great. Even if I accelerate pretty hard it pulls great most of the time. These symptoms are almost a sure when I step on it all the way and on and off being aggressive but not floored.
Now prior to replacing the sensor when I had autozone check the code it pulled up the 02 sensor and someother manufacture code that they couldn't tell me what it was. The check engine light is still on after the replacement and I haven't been by the zone yet. I will get the codes for you experts out there tommorow.
I would appreciate any help!! Thank-you for putting up with my long windedness... I'll get back with you tomorrow as soon as I can run by autozone and get a code. I know a guy who can reset the codes for me as well. Please advise me if I should do this.
Thanks
sjsamuel
yeah, a popping sound from the engine bay means a misfire originating from something not working right. At idle, a misfiring cylinder is harder to detect. Usually you can hear an intermitent "puffing" sound coming from the exhaust. Let the car idle and go back and listen to the exhaust.
coil packs like stated before could be the source
also, reset your ECU. Take the ground terminal off of the battery for an hour or two, and then reconnect it. Take for a test drive and see if that check engine light comes back. If it does, then yeah, you still have a problem.
coil packs like stated before could be the source
also, reset your ECU. Take the ground terminal off of the battery for an hour or two, and then reconnect it. Take for a test drive and see if that check engine light comes back. If it does, then yeah, you still have a problem.
Alright I'll try that now....if it is the coil packs what exactly is that and if the answer is in the stickies I'll look it up. I'll try the suggestions, and tomorrow I'll run by autozone to see if I can come up with a code # if the problem is not fixed.
Thanks
Thanks
on newer cars, there are these "coil packs." Basically instead of having one coil that is hooked up to a distributor, there are electronically controlled coils. Each spark plug has a coil. Coils generate a high voltage surge that is sent to make the spark plug spark. (in a nutshell)
there are three in the front underneath the cover that says V6 3000 yadda yadda yadda. If you take an allen wrench, take the cover off, and the coils are the little black boxes. Disconnect the harness to each one, take the little screws out, and pull the coil up and out of the tube. The spark plug is plugged into the rubber boot that will come out of the tube. There are also three more wedged between the gaps in the intake manifold. These come out the same way as previously described. Don't lose the screws, and don't drop them into the spark plug tubes.
there are three in the front underneath the cover that says V6 3000 yadda yadda yadda. If you take an allen wrench, take the cover off, and the coils are the little black boxes. Disconnect the harness to each one, take the little screws out, and pull the coil up and out of the tube. The spark plug is plugged into the rubber boot that will come out of the tube. There are also three more wedged between the gaps in the intake manifold. These come out the same way as previously described. Don't lose the screws, and don't drop them into the spark plug tubes.
important look ath the stickies on how to get the ECU codes... you don't have to go to autozone or anything like that... (specialy not a professional where you will pay money for it)
all you need is a flat screw drive.
what they say about your coil packs, is a commonn problem with the rubber part (^mentioned above) were they basicaly don't send the eletrical signal to the spark plugs, thus misfire.
when you get the ECU code, (again stickies) it will tell you which exactly coil pack is faulty.
I'm not sure if Nissan replaces those in a recal (I'm not a 99 maxima, so I don't know about this)
Also, don't disconect your battery cable, it is the same as reseting your ECU (stickies)
all you need is a flat screw drive.
what they say about your coil packs, is a commonn problem with the rubber part (^mentioned above) were they basicaly don't send the eletrical signal to the spark plugs, thus misfire.
when you get the ECU code, (again stickies) it will tell you which exactly coil pack is faulty.
I'm not sure if Nissan replaces those in a recal (I'm not a 99 maxima, so I don't know about this)
Also, don't disconect your battery cable, it is the same as reseting your ECU (stickies)
Originally Posted by Guinader
Also, don't disconect your battery cable, it is the same as reseting your ECU (stickies)
But yeah, pull codes before you reset it, haha.
Alright guys heres the update.....
I went out there and hooked the battery back up and the ECU light was still on so I followed the ins. in the stickies and got the Codes. 0307 and 0604
"Closed loop circuit" and "5th cylinder misfire" respectively. So I proceeded to reset the ICU(I hope I didn' t jack anything up...that dang screw is so small I can' tell if I'm turning it or not). I must have cause the light went of....So I went for a quick test drive...and it was awesome...the car ran better that its run before...don't know if I was just luck but no sputtering...no lagging....I got on it pretty hard too.
Well, I don' t know what that first code is...but that second one if still a problem is right down the road you guys were talking about...misfireing...so we'll see what happens tomorrow...
Thanks again.....
I went out there and hooked the battery back up and the ECU light was still on so I followed the ins. in the stickies and got the Codes. 0307 and 0604
"Closed loop circuit" and "5th cylinder misfire" respectively. So I proceeded to reset the ICU(I hope I didn' t jack anything up...that dang screw is so small I can' tell if I'm turning it or not). I must have cause the light went of....So I went for a quick test drive...and it was awesome...the car ran better that its run before...don't know if I was just luck but no sputtering...no lagging....I got on it pretty hard too.
Well, I don' t know what that first code is...but that second one if still a problem is right down the road you guys were talking about...misfireing...so we'll see what happens tomorrow...
Thanks again.....
ok now here is what I don't know.
this missfire for the coils.
one it is a recal from nissan, and you can get a free replacement...(not sure if it is true.)
two, if the light comes up again, and you get the same misfire code.
like before open cylinder 5 and check for any damages... then if nothing is wrong (spark is fine coil is fine) then buy a new coil....-> i think that is all you need.
here:0307
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0307 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Left Bank. The left cylinder bank is also called the front bank. It is cylinders 2,4,6.
DTC 0307 is detected when the closed loop control function for the left bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.
this missfire for the coils.
one it is a recal from nissan, and you can get a free replacement...(not sure if it is true.)
two, if the light comes up again, and you get the same misfire code.
like before open cylinder 5 and check for any damages... then if nothing is wrong (spark is fine coil is fine) then buy a new coil....-> i think that is all you need.
here:0307
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0307 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Left Bank. The left cylinder bank is also called the front bank. It is cylinders 2,4,6.
DTC 0307 is detected when the closed loop control function for the left bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.
Well...could 0307 be from my previously defected o2 sensor....now seeing your reply I'm scarred because I did a search and found that my previous code before the o2 sensor was saying bank1 o2 sensor so I replaced the left sided or front of the engine sensor...but did I replace the wrong sensor??
I'll have to wait and see if the light comes back on!
I'll have to wait and see if the light comes back on!
Welcome to the .Org.
Please do yourself and all of us a favor and rea....MEMORIZE the stickies and FAQ's. This will save yourself a lot of valuable time and possibly some embarassment. Enjoy!
Please do yourself and all of us a favor and rea....MEMORIZE the stickies and FAQ's. This will save yourself a lot of valuable time and possibly some embarassment. Enjoy!
Hello- a New Bee here so I hope I'm in the right place-
RE: ignition coils for 1999 - mine has 200K miles and 1-2 coils are sputtering, so it's time to R&R all 6 -- can anyone advise their favorite coils? I checked Rockauto; they list ACDELCO, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS, AIRTEX, and any opinions? I assume that this issue has been well wrung out by now and that there are some decent spark coils out there, also; anyone have any opinions on favorite plugs? Page 15 of my factory service manual calls out the 3 NGK types --- any other better spark plug options available?
Also, what a "sticky" as mentioned in one of the posts?
Thank you
RE: ignition coils for 1999 - mine has 200K miles and 1-2 coils are sputtering, so it's time to R&R all 6 -- can anyone advise their favorite coils? I checked Rockauto; they list ACDELCO, STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS, AIRTEX, and any opinions? I assume that this issue has been well wrung out by now and that there are some decent spark coils out there, also; anyone have any opinions on favorite plugs? Page 15 of my factory service manual calls out the 3 NGK types --- any other better spark plug options available?
Also, what a "sticky" as mentioned in one of the posts?
Thank you
Originally Posted by trekboy0014
Hi - need a little help here, what is a stickie?
thx
thx
By the way for an update on my Max, I've been driving around today after resetting the ECU yesterday, and so far no CEL. Also she is running great I don't think I'm imagining but I think it feels quicker and has not acted up even when pushed. So thank-you all for your help. I hope this continues.
SS
alright guys...I have searched the stickies to the best of my ability, and can't come up with an answer. Today I drove around with the car running great till late this evening.....CEL back on. I was curious so right after I found a straight strech and pushed the car and sure enough the same symptoms....sputtering at higher RPMs and poping sound.
Anyway came straight home checked the code now only 0307 shows. looking through the stickies this seems to be related to Left bank O2 sensor...only problem is...I just replaced that one...is there something else in this closed loop control that could be setting this off and hence my problems? Thanks in advance for you help
SS
Anyway came straight home checked the code now only 0307 shows. looking through the stickies this seems to be related to Left bank O2 sensor...only problem is...I just replaced that one...is there something else in this closed loop control that could be setting this off and hence my problems? Thanks in advance for you help
SS
well, I have never gone that far on finding out these problems... (limited experience), maybe someone else here could help...
my random guess is the 5th coil pack has triggered the code... but then again... I don't know much about it.
my random guess is the 5th coil pack has triggered the code... but then again... I don't know much about it.
Originally Posted by Guinader
well, I have never gone that far on finding out these problems... (limited experience), maybe someone else here could help...
my random guess is the 5th coil pack has triggered the code... but then again... I don't know much about it.
my random guess is the 5th coil pack has triggered the code... but then again... I don't know much about it.
no you are right, it is just that i really don't know what to sugest.... a while back my father 2002 ford escape had a 5th coil pack misfire, I replaced for him, and there was no problems.... that is all I know about coils basicaly.
Did he give you a good O2 sensor? Try changing the back one for the front and resetting the CEL. If you now get a CEL for the right bank, you know it's the O2 sensor that is faulty. Better yet, check the resistance of the sensor using the method outlined in Haynes.
0307 cel is unable to obtain closed loop operation for the right bank. Sounds like you replaced the wrong sensor. Right bank sensor is the one closest to the firewall. You need to get a $15 haynes manual. Save yourself some headaches!!
Originally Posted by PLUMMAXSE
0307 cel is unable to obtain closed loop operation for the right bank. Sounds like you replaced the wrong sensor. Right bank sensor is the one closest to the firewall. You need to get a $15 haynes manual. Save yourself some headaches!!
I guess I'll have to make some time and switch the sensors and see if this will fix it. Considering I have 110K is it worth it to go ahead a replace the right bank as well instead of switching them.....what are the chances this is going to have to be soon??
By the way it was a brand new sensor that I put in the left bank Y-pipe with harness so if it was bad that would have to be a freak thing!!
now if I change out the right bank sensor it shouln't really matter on this code right...cause 0307 refers to the left bank....so I guess my question is did I just install a defective sensor or could there be something else setting this code off.
What code do you have now!! You are confusing the H*ll out of me
If you have a 307 code now, the right bank has a problem!! Don't worry about whether you put a bad O2 sensor in the left bank, that confuses those that want to help.
If you have a 307 code now, the right bank has a problem!! Don't worry about whether you put a bad O2 sensor in the left bank, that confuses those that want to help.
Originally Posted by PLUMMAXSE
What code do you have now!! You are confusing the H*ll out of me
If you have a 307 code now, the right bank has a problem!! Don't worry about whether you put a bad O2 sensor in the left bank, that confuses those that want to help.
If you have a 307 code now, the right bank has a problem!! Don't worry about whether you put a bad O2 sensor in the left bank, that confuses those that want to help.

0307
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0307 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Left Bank. The left cylinder bank is also called the front bank. It is cylinders 2,4,6.
DTC 0307 is detected when the closed loop control function for the left bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.
0308
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0308 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Right Bank. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
DTC 0308 is detected when the closed loop control function for the right bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.:
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0307 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Left Bank. The left cylinder bank is also called the front bank. It is cylinders 2,4,6.
DTC 0307 is detected when the closed loop control function for the left bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.
0308
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0308 points to a problem with the Engine Control Module Closed Loop Logic for the Right Bank. The right cylinder bank is also called the rear bank. It is cylinders 1,3,5.
DTC 0308 is detected when the closed loop control function for the right bank does not operate even when the vehicle conditions meet the criteria (engine at normal operating temperature, etc.). Possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor sensing element.
- a defective Front Heated Oxygen Sensor heater.:
My Chilton's manual says the 0307 is the left bank and the Haynes manual says the 0307 is the right bank. Maybe the stickies are right after all. I'm sorry. If you replace the other sensor you will either clear the code or you have a bad sensor. I replaced both of mine for gas mileage reasons. I didn't have a code. With the mileage on your Max, you should replace both O2 sensors anyway. Your mileage espically city will improve. Good Luck!!
Thanks plummaxse for the suggestions....I guess I am still in disbelief that after brand spanking new o2 sens in the left bank I am still getting this code(0307). I will probably eventually replace the right bank sensor, but anyone else have any ideas if there is anything else that could give this code....
Also is it possible to have a misfiring cylinder without a code...because after reading around I am starting to think my sputtering at high revs in 2nd and 3rd is from a misfire and has nothing to do with this o2 sensor....what do you guys think!
I kinda feel like I'm being a pain by asking all these questions...but kinda lost here and short of taking this car to a mechanic and spending any savings for mods, I am LOST...so thank-you for putting up with my questions
Also is it possible to have a misfiring cylinder without a code...because after reading around I am starting to think my sputtering at high revs in 2nd and 3rd is from a misfire and has nothing to do with this o2 sensor....what do you guys think!
I kinda feel like I'm being a pain by asking all these questions...but kinda lost here and short of taking this car to a mechanic and spending any savings for mods, I am LOST...so thank-you for putting up with my questions
Alright peeps I'm going to bump this to the top again my issue regarding what sounds and acts like a misfire under engine stress(high rpms in 2nd and 3rd), I'm assuming is a bad coil pack, and nothing to do with my other problem....CEL code 0307 after having just replace the 02 sensor...any clue why this code is still up....(I just cleared it but it was back after last clear and I'm assuming its going to come right back)...Any help is much appreciated.
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