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Time for my driveablity/RPM thread! (this is a long one)

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Old Mar 28, 2006 | 08:35 PM
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Time for my driveablity/RPM thread! (this is a long one)

Alright, first. What I've already replaced, cleaned or swapped. Cleaned my IACV and Throttle Body. Tested original TPS and got .40closed 4.00Wopen replaced with a used TPS currently at .40closed and 3.98Wopen. Replaced original MAF with a used one. Removed broken MAF adapter plate for K&N filter and put stock air box back on. Checked and re-torqued spark plugs. Replaced Knock Sensor and PCV valve last fall, which was also the last time I reset the ECU(no codes since then).
Now a little modification background:
Cali swirl valve removal mod, did have MAF adapter plate w/K&N cone filter, the rest is in my sig.

Ok, now that that's out of the way, here's the problem:
when I start my car, she revs a little high probably cause it's still a little cool out, but the RPMs bounce all around usually at startup idle it shifts from 1100 to 2000. Once warmed up she sits about at 650 or so, but RPMs are constantly fluctuating ever so slightly and sometimes will shift up to 1000 for a few seconds. While driving, she will act like the fuel is cutting out for a second over and over while driving at a constant speed or slight acceleration. Even on decelleration she hitches or "bucks". I think it could be a vacume leak but I don't know how to check for that. I really wish there was someone in the area that could help me out by driving it or riding in it.
There seems to be alot of similar issues like this going on lately so if you have a problem like this or a solution please post up!
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated!!
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 08:48 PM
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Coilpacks possibly.
Originally Posted by ti2tmax
While driving, she will act like the fuel is cutting out for a second over and over while driving at a constant speed or slight acceleration. Even on decelleration she hitches or "bucks".
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 08:51 PM
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I've always been under the impression that if they don't work properly they will pop a CEL? or are they like MAFs where they can go bad a while before the car detects it? Ok, I'll search for how to test them and do that tomorrow. Any idea about vacume testing?
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 08:53 PM
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It really feels like: bad gas or no spark. It's very noticable almost exactly like when you first learn how to drive stick and your car jolts/hiccups/bounces.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 09:30 PM
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Sometimes they give a CEL, sometimes they do not.

You have search...use it.
Old Mar 30, 2006 | 07:23 AM
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UPDATE: was listening to the car idle for a while and started to notice that when the RPMs would jump up there would be a little hard to hear noise just before. It sounded like a "tink tink tink" similar to pennies dropped into a glass jar or something. sounded like it came from the rear(firewall) side of the engine somewhere by/below the rear of the upper intake manifold. Also I tried the run the car and unplug the coils one at a time to see if any are bad, they all made the engine run worse off than it currently was so I think they are ok.
Was reading the thread about a bad wiring harness, very expensive hopefully its not that.
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