Black Maxima

Let me try to explain this the best I can. I have a 0210 CEL. And this is what it says:

0210
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0210 points to a problem with the fuel injection system. When the engine management system is running in closed-loop mode the Engine Control Unit (the computer) makes continual adjustments to maintain the air-fuel ratio near the ideal point. To achieve this it relies on signals from many sensors including the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the Oxygen Sensors.

This malfunction is detected when the ECM finds that it cannot properly control the air/fuel mixture, and the mixture is too lean (too much air). DTC 0210 indicates this problem exists on the left bank (the front bank, cylinders 2, 4, and 6). Possible causes include ...
- Intake air leaks
- Front Oxygen Sensor
- one or more fuel injectors on the front bank
- exhaust gas leaks
- incorrect fuel pressure
- lack of fuel
- Mass Air Flow Sensor

I changed the front bank o2 sensor and fuel filter. I still have major problems. My car does not drive like it used to. The tachometer is way off. The rpms constantly bounce around and never stay on track. Everytime I hit the brake pedal, the rpms will drop down past 500 and usually hit 200 rpms. The rpms will drop fast after I let off the gas pedal while going a normal street speed. I don't know what is causing my problem. I uploaded a video so you could visualize the problem and see if anything jumps out at you. I did not get very good shots. Usually my car drives a lot worse than that.

UPLOADED VIDEO

UPLOADED VIDEO CLICK HERE TO PLAY

WielkiWaac

iTrader: (8)

did you check injectors, fuel pressure, MAF??

whitegold

iTrader: (1)

My max does this... But.. it also occasonally says im crusing at 0RPMs

DcMaN

iTrader: (13)

lol dude you ahve so many problems, i have a my old engine with 170k PUT IT IN. My old one runs perfect come pick it up :]

Germr497SE

i think your problem is your spark plugs, change the plugs and put just a little bit of rubbuing alcohol 70% ........ thats how i got my fix my car got 205,000 mil

Black Maxima

Thanks for the replies!

I did check my injectors. I unplugged them one at a time and the engine stumbled a little after I unplugged each one. How do I check fuel pressure? I have no problems starting the car. I tried checking my MAF with a volt meter, it seems alright I guess.

Yea, sometimes I'm at 0 rpms too...

Are you sure your engine doesn't have any problems? Let me get that MAF you threw away.

I will change my spark plugs today. I don't know the last time they were changed. What spark plugs should I use? And do I have to gap them? Hopefully that will stop my problems...

WielkiWaac

iTrader: (8)

buy ngk platinium

Black Maxima

Only sold at the Dealer or like AutoZone, Advance, etc?...

Motorhead52

This is a bit of a shot in the dark but i think its an electrical problem. Specifically, it sounds like the wires supplying the fuel injectors are intermittent. When you brake, your engine shifts in position from when its accelerating and thus the connection is cutting out and its dropping to 200rpms. The ECU was never programmed to handle this kind of fault and isnt going to give you much useful information, or worse, wrong information.

I would test for this by starting the car in park and tug on the wiring harness at various location to see if you can get the engine to stall or misfire.

If that doesnt work, then it might be a vacuum leak, most likely after the MAF sensor. Check that flex hose for cracking. I dont think its a fuel pressure problem because that would affect both banks.

Black Maxima

I went everywhere they didn't have the NGK Copper or Platniums. They did have the V-Power NGK though. I think they were $7.49 each. I was told by someone to get the coppers, but I can't find them anywhere.

Thanks for the reply Motorhead52! I will try everything you said and will post a reply.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

NGK V-Power BKR5E-11 is what you want to get. Those are what everyone calls NGK coppers. Don't bother with platinums they are like 3-4 times more expensive. You can get the coppers at any auto parts store, I've never gone to a parts store looking for NGK coppers and been unable to find them, they are as common as finding motor oil at a parts store.

That said I don't believe your problem has anything to do with the spark plugs. I watched the video and couldn't really understand what I was watching, it just seemed like you were on the gas and then off the gas multiple times.

Black Maxima

Thanks for the reply Nealoc187. I'm going to go take another video. And look for the spark plugs again. How hard is it to change the spark plugs?

MaximaEvolution

iTrader: (2)

very simple with the right tools... check out the stickies. make sure u torque them down to spec and put anti-seize on the threads!

BigLou93SE

iTrader: (10)

I'll describe my problem to you:

When I am cruising, and then press my clutch in, my engine speed occasionally drops REALLY fast, far past my set idle point of 650 rpms. My tach will read 200-300 rpms, and the engine will studder, and work it's way back up. I have set my idle correctly unplugging the TPS and using the IACV black screw.

I have narrowed this problem down so that I can rule out ANY preventative maintanence (filters, fluids, dirty parts ie TB and IACV, plugs, correctly adjusted TPS, etc.). Sometimes I get a "whistle" at idle, however VERY occasionally, and it happened when my mechanic was double checking the DIY brake job I had completed, and said that it sounds as if it is an Intake Manifold leak. This weekend, I think I'm going to spray some TB cleaner around my mani and see if the engine tone changes at all, hopefully I will have found my problem, and will replace it first thing summer break.

Since you mentioned "how fast your engine speed drops", I guess I could say that mine drops that fast too. I didn't realize this wasn't normal though, I don't know. I'm just going to be happy to have this problem fixed this summer. I hope it's not injector related though...

Black Maxima

I got the spark plugs about an hour ago. I changed the front ones. THey were easy. I torqued them to 17.5 ft lbs. and used anti-seize on the thread. I'm going to do the back three in a couple minutes.

BigLou93SE - That is pretty much everything that is happening with my engine. My IACV is fine and I have all the regular maintainence items checked off. I don't think it has anything to do with injectors like you mentioned. All of mine are clicking and when disconnected, the engine will sputter. Your mechanic mentioned it could be a intake manifold leak. I'm beginning to think it is also. I have liquid all around the gasket on my intake manifold. I'll take a picture of it and post the latest video in a few...

Thanks guys!

Black Maxima

This is a new video. You can see I accelerate and have to make a turn so I step on my brakes. The rpms drop fast and go way below 500, then pick back up again.

CLICK HERE TO SEE VIDEO

This is my intake manifold. Is it time for a new gasket?

BigLou93SE

iTrader: (10)

Does the engine studder when it's that low? Then only reason to ask that seemingly obvious question is to rule out electrical problems (maybe not rule them out completely, but you get what I mean). What were you saying about your rpms "jumping around"?

That tach shot is sometihgn I'm all to familiar with, and it sometimes really makes me hate my car. It can either do it not once in a drive, or it can do it everysingle damn time I come to a stop. I'm really hoping my gasket is bad, and that when Ireplace it my car will be solid again. Good luck Black Maxima....CT meet fixing intake mani gaskets?

btw...I don't see a pic of your mani

Black Maxima

These problems began a couple months ago when my car stalled out three times in one week during normal driving. Although, I had the CEL since November. I believe the engine does studder when the rpms drop low. It's hard to tell because my brake and steering get hard. My rpms jumping around means that they will fall, then go back up, but eventually at idle staying in one spot. Only a couple times at idle my rpms have dropped below 500. I agree, this is really annoying. It is getting worse everytime I drive. It used to do it once in a while, now everytime I drive it there is a problem. I forgot to post the pictures once I made the post. I edited the picture back in.

Thanks for the support...a meet sounds good...

Aaron

95bluse

iTrader: (1)

My intake manifold has a leak just like yours and my car runs great. I think that gasket weeps on quite a few Maxes out there. I would replace this as a last resort.
It may be your MAF, but when mine was bad it would cause a massive stumble when I gave it gas. That made for some interesting moments on left-turns at lights . Come to think of it, it may have cause idle issues too.

Unfortunately, I can't recall the CEL code that it caused, but it happened soon after I accidentally dropped the assembly when I took it out to clean my TB. I got mine from the junkyard...great price & it's still working fine to this day.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

The RPMs dropping low when going from the gas to clutch and brakes is totally normal, if it actually stalls that's not right, but the RPM dropping low (3,4,500rpm) when you brake as the RPMs are coming down is normal. All 3 of my fourth gens do it (4-500rpm). If that's all it's doing don't worry about it.

BigLou93SE

iTrader: (10)

I hate to disagree with one of the most experienced members on this forum, but I can't possibly see how this is "normal". There is no way Nissan would engineer a car that "should" almost stall when pressing the clutch. Either way, my problem is NOT limited to pressing the brake. This will happen if I just put the clutch in and allow the engine speed to fall down to idle to coast. I may swap MAFs with my parent's 97 GLE and see if that's the problem, although I'm not limited to 2.5k rpms or whatever.

It hasn't stalled yet, but damn, it feels like the engine is dying when it happens.

Black Maxima

Good post BigLou93SE. I hate to disagree also. But, it's not normal. My car didn't always do this. It has stalled before, it doesn't anymore. This is really annoying me...

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

I didn't say a thing about it almost stalling when you hit the clutch, I said the RPMs get a little low when the vacuum is low (just having let off the gas as the RPMs come down) and when you are pressing on the brakes at the same time (brakes are vacuum assisted, which causes the vacuum to get even lower momentarily). I didn't say a single thing about it being normal for it to happen when you just press the clutch in (without pressing on the brakes). Don't put words in my mouth please. I never said anything about RPMs getting low when you are not on the brakes, I was ONLY talking about when you are pressing the brake AND the rpms are coming down at the same time. BTW biglou I wasn't responding to whatever problem you may be having anyways, I was responding only to the posts of the original poster which I had read.

If your car is stalling, that's not normal. If your car has the RPMs getting too low when you are NOT depressing the brake pedal when the RPMs come down, that is not normal, but the RPMs getting one or two hundred RPM low when you depress the brake as the RPMs come down with the clutch depressed is assuredly normal behavior. Excessively low RPM is not what I'm talking about though, below 400 or 450 is what I'd consider excessively low.

Black Maxima

My rpms constantly go to 150-200 when I step on the brake.

DcMaN

iTrader: (13)

aaron, its time to take off your intake manifold and give it a cleaning, while down there replace the knock sensor. Also clean the egr system Because that will be blocked up. Also check for any vacuum leaks broken hoses etc...

4DRSpeed

iTrader: (22)

I believe your MAF is shot.

Believe it or not, my buddy's Trans Am actually has a very similar code to what you have. He is going to replace his MAF first and see what happens. A few guys on LS1tech suggest its the MAF.

I believe it is possible in your situation as well, but the leak around the intake manifold is definetly not right.

BigLou93SE

iTrader: (10)

Black Maxima, the original poster, has an automatic, which is why I thought you were responding to the situation I described, hence you discussing situations when pressing the clutch. I apologize for "putting words in your mouth," that wasn't my intention. I was only trying to respond to a comment which I took as you responding to a previous comment I made. As far as I can remember (rough night last night...), I was the only one claiming to have a problem that including using my clutch and having my engine speed fall to excessively low rpms. Again, I apologize for that.
Well, I certainly have excessively low engine speed then on occasion by your definition. I'm just hoping this weekend when I'm home I can investigate a little bit, but spraying TB cleaner around the IM gasket.

Black Maxima

Thanks for the responce guys. How hard is it to take the intake manifold off? I'll check the stickies for that and cleaning the EGR system.

The only way to check a MAF is the voltage? I'll have to put someone's MAF in my car and try it out.

Zach95SE

iTrader: (3)

Ehh it's not too bad to take off the IM. Just lots of little things and the 3 bolts on the backside. PM me if you wanna do it one day I could help you out a little bit. Or I can at least point out those bolts they are a pain in the ***.

clive

First sensible piece of advice I've seen in this thread.
Symptoms are exactly like a bad MAF connector (plug/socket contact going bad or oxidised) and also, a PCV hose blocked with goo or bad PCV valve.

Black Maxima

I should clean and change the gasket on the intake manifold soon. I'll look around to see where the bolts are. I might have to take you up on the offer Zach.

What wireing harness are you talking about? The ones connected to the injectors?

I'm going to inspect the PVC valve today...

BigLou93SE

iTrader: (10)

I hear that to change the gasket for the IM's, you don't need to take it completely off, after unbolting a few you can sort of pull the IM up and slip the gasket in and out. Or that's what the All Motor forum told me to do when I asked about the 00vi swap because I was going to be removing my IM anyways. Of course, if you want to clean it, you're going to have to take it off. But for the time being, if you just wanted to make sure that a leak isn't the problem, you can try that. I should look in my Haynes tonight and see if they outline the procedure for changing the gasket. Any one have any ideas on how much this gasket costs?

C MAX

iTrader: (4)

im not sure if anybvody else mentioned it but did you spray tb cleaner around the gasket to see if it makes the engine rise or sputter. i had a few guys have this problem including me and found it to be the gasket and from the look of yours it might be leaking pretty bad. this will throw all sort of codes like the ones you described but if you havent already spray the tb cleaner in and around and in the middle where the ks goes.

Black Maxima

I took the PVC hose off the intake manifold. It would only run when I had my finger over the fitting. I felt it suction to my finger. Also, while running, I didn't feel much air comming out of PVC hose from the crankcase. Barely any air at all. How is that supposed to work?

I will pick up some throttle body cleaner, spray it around, and get back to you guys...

Black Maxima

I sprayed throttle body cleaner all around the gasket on the intake manifold. It's now clean. After every long spray the engine would idle the same. I basically drenched the intake manifold right where all the dirty stuff was. I noticed no difference at idle after sprays. Any other places to spray it?

Black Maxima

Oh, where is the knock sensor? I'll spray it around in there.

Black Maxima

Bump!!!!!!!!

Black Maxima

My engine takes an extra second to start now that I sprayed that throttle body cleaner around the intake manifold gasket.

clive

Stop TALKING and start TORQUING!

gmax96

iTrader: (2)

i sort of have the same problem but mine doesnt have any leaks whatsoever but anyway whenever i put my car in neutral and idle my rpm goes backdown to 500 i tried to adjust my idle but it keeps on coming back down to 500. could this be my TPS? i need ur help thanks