Can a rear caliper freeze up in the retracted position?
Thread Starter
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 471
From: Richardson, TX
Can a rear caliper freeze up in the retracted position?
Most of the posts I found in search talked about it seizing out...
A few months back my brother borrowed the car for a week, and then when I got it back the ebrake was a little easier to pull than normal. I checked the pads a few times and everything seemed ok, I turned both calipers in and reset everything. Ever since, I've noticed the right rear doesn't lock when I pull the ebrake.
So... while I'm in doing all my various installs this weekend (clutch, suspension, axles, brakes [rotors, pads, lines, etc]) I obviously had to check out the rear calipers more indepth. Upon further inspection, the ebrake on the right rear is in the pulled position and it stays there (I have to tap it with a hammer to get it to go back), but the caliper wasn't in the extended position when I pulled things apart (ebrake was still on at the time). I tried spraying it with some wd-40ish type lubricant and tried pulling it a few times, knocking it back... nothing, still stays in the "pulled" position after I release it, and the piston still wasn't moving out. I was able to turn it in at a normal amount of effort on my part. Boot looks fine, and fluid did come out of the caliper when I took the line off and twisted the piston in... is it shot?
I'm not sure I'll be able to find a caliper on short notice (Advance says they have one available for purchase and pickup, but it says ships in 1 day underneath, not sure if that means they have it or not; I'll have to find out tomorrow)..
Thoughts?
Thanks,
A few months back my brother borrowed the car for a week, and then when I got it back the ebrake was a little easier to pull than normal. I checked the pads a few times and everything seemed ok, I turned both calipers in and reset everything. Ever since, I've noticed the right rear doesn't lock when I pull the ebrake.
So... while I'm in doing all my various installs this weekend (clutch, suspension, axles, brakes [rotors, pads, lines, etc]) I obviously had to check out the rear calipers more indepth. Upon further inspection, the ebrake on the right rear is in the pulled position and it stays there (I have to tap it with a hammer to get it to go back), but the caliper wasn't in the extended position when I pulled things apart (ebrake was still on at the time). I tried spraying it with some wd-40ish type lubricant and tried pulling it a few times, knocking it back... nothing, still stays in the "pulled" position after I release it, and the piston still wasn't moving out. I was able to turn it in at a normal amount of effort on my part. Boot looks fine, and fluid did come out of the caliper when I took the line off and twisted the piston in... is it shot?
I'm not sure I'll be able to find a caliper on short notice (Advance says they have one available for purchase and pickup, but it says ships in 1 day underneath, not sure if that means they have it or not; I'll have to find out tomorrow)..
Thoughts?
Thanks,
yup that calipers bad..i had to change mines because when i stop that caliper would freeze and the brake pedal will sink and the car would be hard to stop..i reccommend you changing the cable that connects to the caliper to..
WD-40 won't do a thing, ur gonna need some corrosion and rust breakin compounds like liquid wrench or bolt breaker. might have to let it soak for a while ( i waited for about 2 hrs before i could move it) and might have to tap it with a hammer or wrench until u can move it. but i think u may need a new one. try that while u wait for the part
lots of auto parts stores will have a rebuild caliper in stock, wich for all purposes is as good as a brand new one and about $150 cheaper. or u can try to rebuild it ur self, ive never done it but looks doable, heres a great link... http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/ca...akeCaliper.htm
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