nishfish871

iTrader: (5)

Well, ive been having this problem for a while now and think it is time to post it. When i start my car it never starts first time unless it is already hot. It will try to start but keeps loosing the rpm to like ~300 then try to catch itself. After a few trys at starting it, I have to put my foot on the gas a little to get it to catch. I cleaned my throttle body yesterday and uh now my rpms have increased to like 1500rpm when i start the car and let it sit for a min.. Yes i checked all the hoses and wires three times. After a while it will drop back to around 700rpm which is normal...right? Help me guys I want to solve this problem soon...

Trajiksmax

Check the How to Stickies on how to clean your IACV (Idle Adjustment Control Valve). If that doesn't fix the problem try doing the sea foam/deep creep in the Power brake booster. Another thing to check is your TPS (Throttle Postion Sensor) which is located on top of your throttle body. It will be identified with 2 wire harnesses coming out of it.
*When was your last tune-up?

nishfish871

iTrader: (5)

Last tune up....if you mean oil change and filters i did it about 3000 miles ago...Mobil 1 Synthetic. Nothing else has been done for a while. Spark plugs might be comming up soon bc with over 220k miles it will need it. I think I have one of the first maximas...6/94 is what the door says!!! Ill clean the IACV and hope that works...and check the TPS. Thanks for ur help.

Sy0p

did you check if it is the starter?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

i have a similar problem but i cut 1/2 of the throttle body off, moved all the emmisions stuff around, and bypassed the egr. i think its the cold idle thats not working.

crazy97

iTrader: (1)

A tune up is not an oil change, your spark plugs could be shot. I'd start there.

maxrepairs

I had a similar problem for about 6 months, went through the plugs, the coils and everything else I could think of. Finally I got a check engine light for the water temp sensor. Figured it was a different problem, but after I replaced it, the starting problem has not returned. (I stopped trying to understand it) It has been over a year now. My problem may have been a little different. My starter would crank for many many seconds before It would finally start and then I would have to give it gas for a few seconds. This would happen maybe twice a week. I Don't trust any of the sensors, they are what I think of, when I hear tune up.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

oh yes the temp sensor could be the cause. there are 2, one for the gauge and one for the ecu. the one for the ecu would be the one to replace. im going to have to try that.

ZeRo--MaX

I have a similar problem but this morning it would even start at all. It still turns and sputters to about 300-500rpm. Before it used to jump up to 300-500rpm for about a sec and then I would give it a little gas and she would start up. Also I hear a mid-loud backfire coming from the intake pipe. Never cleaned my IACV? would that have anything to do with it.

Also, the motor is new, but all the accessories is from my old motor. But the starter just been rebuilded. My old motor used to do the same but would start after a while. Someone told me it was my ignition switch? Before I used to jerked the key when it started and I found it to start better when jerking the key.

super6

iTrader: (5)

sounds like iacv, could be maf but unlikely

nishfish871

iTrader: (5)

well the starter and maf have been replaced before so i do not think that is the problem...bc when it's started it wont die. Sometimes when i reverse out of the driveway i loose the rpms but that might be from not letting it warm up. Could the knock sensor be it because you never know when its blown? I have a feeling it's a sensor of some sort bc of the way it acts. The IACV is that slim black rectangle thing, right? Should i clean it and/or adjust it?

ZeRo--MaX

Thanks for the info. I saw the how to for cleaning your IACV, but I was just wondering can you pull the iacv off the motor for proper cleaning?

I also feel the rpm drop below 700rpm when I backup the driveway, would it be cause by the IACV?

Thanks

willard00

iTrader: (1)

i had the same problem and i did plugs, fuel filter, clean MAF, cleaned throttle body....nothing helped. i found my PCV valve was fried. so i replaced that. it helped a bit but not much. i was telling myself it was the coils but wasnt positive, so to the dealer i went. i got a call "you need coils" i said "ok thanks ill come pick it up" leaving the guy utterly confused and assuring me if they didnt do them than the car wouldnt run right. i told them i knew that and took the car and went to autozone, got new coils, put em in, and wala. its doin good now.

usually autozone only carries one front bank and one rear bank coil, so call and see what they have...i had to go to 3 different autozones. also, if youre going to replace them, i recomend replacing all at once. if one is bad, its only a matter of time until the others go.

last note: you may want to be positive that it is the coils. it cost me about $40 to have the dealer look at it. but it was well worth it. coils are $60 a pop so $60 X 6 is like $400ish plus tax. dealer told me $800 for it. so even with the $40 diagnosis i still saved about $350.

good luck man.

willard00

iTrader: (1)

oh yea, the only difference with my symptoms was that i never had to step on the gas when i started it, it would always just catch itself and rev back up.

and when was the last time your oil was changed? i went a good 4000miles over mine(thats being generous) and that is NOT good at all for your engine. the oil becomes thick and turns into sluge which in turn makes the engine work harder to move the oil thoughout, and it doesnt lubricate well. also it can cause a boat load of problems down the road. so change it if its due!!

0260N9

iTrader: (2)

I am haveing the same problem with starting but it only happens when it is cold outside. Took it to the dealer on Saturday and they said that I need an absolute pressure sensor and o2 sensor. They said that the aps sensor was the reason why i am having the hard starts and low idle. Before I took it to the dealer i took it to autozone and had the codes read. They were p0104 and p0136. The p0136 is for the downstream o2 but the p0104 is an intermit MAF sensor code. Is is possible for the absolute pressure sensor to cause a p0104. Thanks ahead of time and sorry to jack this thread (dont have post count yet).

dannysm213

I had the same problem with my Max from about Thanksgiving to Christmas last year. When I'd start my car, the revs would drop to about 300 and then the car would stall out if I didn't give it some gas. I parked my car for 2.5 months over the winter while I was away, and when I came back it cleared itself up. I think the cold weather has a lot to do with the problem, because that's when it was coldest for my in NY.

descent

iTrader: (1)

mine is also doing this. i'm going for an oil change tomorrow (gotta love 20 dollar changes) so what should i ask them to check?

list so far:
maf sensor
o2 sensor
knock sensor
coils
plugs
iacv
throttle body
injectors

anything else?

willard00

iTrader: (1)

that seems like a solid list, you could check your throttle body and MAF sensor yourself. its simple. just take the intake off to check the throttle body (if it looks dirty, clean it), and at the same time you will have already taken the MAF sensor off so just look at it and it the screen is dirty, clean it with MAF cleaner. (dont hold it too close though because the spray can damage the sensor in the middle of the screen.

willard00

iTrader: (1)

yea mine seemed to be much worse as it got colder out. but it still did it in the warm weather.