Is it safe to go with an aftermarket PCV valve vs OEM?
#1
no more maxima...
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Is it safe to go with an aftermarket PCV valve vs OEM?
Who here is running an aftermarket PCV valve instead of OEM? They are only a fraction of the price compared with OEM (like $2 at Canadian Tire vs $17 at the local Nissan dealership). Any cons?
Thanks
Thanks
#9
Originally Posted by fisher01
I would stick with OEM. I tried one from Advance Auto parts and it made alot of noise after installing.
Originally Posted by crazy97
Cleaning it out with TB cleaner and reinstalling it would make it like new again.
#10
Originally Posted by Tatanko
I used the same one and never had any problems with it.
I would tend to disagree. Depending on the condition, it NEEDS replaced. The one that was on my car when I bought it has hard and cracking when I replaced it.
I would tend to disagree. Depending on the condition, it NEEDS replaced. The one that was on my car when I bought it has hard and cracking when I replaced it.
#14
Originally Posted by blkmaxz95
When replacing make sure the hose fits. I had a bit of trouble with an aftermarket PCV from Autozone. I went with the stealership version and did not have a bit of problems plus the gromet fit the thing too.
#15
I would not get one at autozone etc, the aftermarket ones they have are completely different. I compared oem to this one and they weren't the same length, the seating part was different. It just didn't look anything like the oem one so I went to the dealer and got it and some NGK plugs at the same time.
#16
The PCV was not the same when I bought it. No it was Deuch, has a blue tip. That one, stay away from. Too long and the gromet would not match up right, I spent a lot of money on the grommets so I would advise getting the OEM.
#17
Originally Posted by Tim96I30t
I would not get one at autozone etc, the aftermarket ones they have are completely different. I compared oem to this one and they weren't the same length, the seating part was different. It just didn't look anything like the oem one so I went to the dealer and got it and some NGK plugs at the same time.
#22
PCV valves do not need to be replaced as often as they did a number of years ago. I replaced mine in the fall with an aftermarket one at a fraction of the cost of one from the stealership. The guy at the parts counter at the stealership I phoned, said he hadn't sold a PCV valve for a 4th Gen in over a year.
If removed and the PCV valve rattles it is still good to go.
If removed and the PCV valve rattles it is still good to go.
#23
For guys with Boost
[/IMG]
30psi PCV valve for Forced induction Price:$ 69.95 Part Number: PCV001
[F.A.Q.
Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system
The PCV system in modern day engines is designed to remove blow-by gases (un-burnt fuel-air mixture that escapes past the piston rings on the compression stroke). These crankcase gases can foul the engine oil or increase the crankcase stress. Additionally it raises the acidity levels in the oil, which breaks down the oils ability to lubricate properly. Filtered air supplied to the crankcase from the intake hose through the valve cover mixes with the blow-by gases and funneled out of the valve cover vacuum in the intake manifold through the PCV valve. The PCV is a tapered plunger and two springs, and limits airflow based on intake manifold vacuum. Most NA cars are not set up with sufficient PCV systems to exhaust these pressurized conditions, the RIPP PCV eliminates the following conditions.
• Blow by
• Crank Case stress
• Sludge build up
• Oil acidity levels
Under idle, deceleration and cruise conditions the blow-by gases are minimal, the engines vacuum will do a sufficient job in removing the pressure built in the crankcase. However, under boosted conditions and heavy acceleration, the PCV system is under a much heavyier load because blow-by gases are at their highest, a completely normal condition. The intake manifold becomes pressurized and the plungers seat on the factory PCV is forced closed preventing air from entering or exiting the crankcase, ultimately building excess crankcase pressure. Additionally, when the manifold is pressurized the excess blow-by gases now under pressure flow out of any part of the engine it can find such as the valve cover seal or gaskets, oil dip stick tubes, valve cover relief vent and various other “escape routes” the pressure manages to find.
RIPP Modifications developed a low cost and simple solution to this problem, a one-way valve that modify the operation of the PCV system and prevent air from entering the crankcase through the factory PCV valve or the intake hose. Used in conjunction with the Oil Catch Can system we provide you will eliminate the conditions described above. The larger valve assembly installs in the hose that connects the rear rocker cover to the intake hose. Our valves allow air to flow through them in only one direction, the crank will flow only away from the valve covers, maintaining a partial vacuum in the crankcase at all times. The new system will increases engine power and response because power is not wasted compressing air in the crankcase on the downward piston stroke.
This method of releasing crank case pressure is time proven and practiced across the board by all professional tuners and engine builders, no matter what engine you choose to run. However, the RIPP valve is derived specifically for the engine supported in its program, a perfect match for your application. The valve comes with instruction on how to best utilize it in your application, high compression, NOS or Forced Inductions engine will all benefit from it.
NOTE: NOT included in kit see products for more info
.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
30psi PCV valve for Forced induction Price:$ 69.95 Part Number: PCV001
[F.A.Q.
Positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system
The PCV system in modern day engines is designed to remove blow-by gases (un-burnt fuel-air mixture that escapes past the piston rings on the compression stroke). These crankcase gases can foul the engine oil or increase the crankcase stress. Additionally it raises the acidity levels in the oil, which breaks down the oils ability to lubricate properly. Filtered air supplied to the crankcase from the intake hose through the valve cover mixes with the blow-by gases and funneled out of the valve cover vacuum in the intake manifold through the PCV valve. The PCV is a tapered plunger and two springs, and limits airflow based on intake manifold vacuum. Most NA cars are not set up with sufficient PCV systems to exhaust these pressurized conditions, the RIPP PCV eliminates the following conditions.
• Blow by
• Crank Case stress
• Sludge build up
• Oil acidity levels
Under idle, deceleration and cruise conditions the blow-by gases are minimal, the engines vacuum will do a sufficient job in removing the pressure built in the crankcase. However, under boosted conditions and heavy acceleration, the PCV system is under a much heavyier load because blow-by gases are at their highest, a completely normal condition. The intake manifold becomes pressurized and the plungers seat on the factory PCV is forced closed preventing air from entering or exiting the crankcase, ultimately building excess crankcase pressure. Additionally, when the manifold is pressurized the excess blow-by gases now under pressure flow out of any part of the engine it can find such as the valve cover seal or gaskets, oil dip stick tubes, valve cover relief vent and various other “escape routes” the pressure manages to find.
RIPP Modifications developed a low cost and simple solution to this problem, a one-way valve that modify the operation of the PCV system and prevent air from entering the crankcase through the factory PCV valve or the intake hose. Used in conjunction with the Oil Catch Can system we provide you will eliminate the conditions described above. The larger valve assembly installs in the hose that connects the rear rocker cover to the intake hose. Our valves allow air to flow through them in only one direction, the crank will flow only away from the valve covers, maintaining a partial vacuum in the crankcase at all times. The new system will increases engine power and response because power is not wasted compressing air in the crankcase on the downward piston stroke.
This method of releasing crank case pressure is time proven and practiced across the board by all professional tuners and engine builders, no matter what engine you choose to run. However, the RIPP valve is derived specifically for the engine supported in its program, a perfect match for your application. The valve comes with instruction on how to best utilize it in your application, high compression, NOS or Forced Inductions engine will all benefit from it.
NOTE: NOT included in kit see products for more info
.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
#24
I purchased the deutch pvc from autozone, it did not look like the stock version but I tried it anyways. When I went to install it, the size difference pushed the grommet down inside the valve cover. I had to remove the cover to get the grommet out...needless to say I purchase oem now...
#26
i worked at Advance Auto Parts for 2 years and for 6 months at Pep Boys and in that time of dealing with impatient f***s who dont wanna spend more than a dollar on their car i learned....(inhales deeply) although a very good question an aftermarket PCV valve should work just like the OE, due to the fact that if PCV valves offered performance there might be a question of quality. there is no real science to how it works, once the crankcase and/or heads reach a certain pressure it vents out the pressure and has that pressure sucked out by recirculating it through the intake. hence the engine vents its own pressure. aftermarket ones should be identical to OE if not they will cause engine failure and will either never hit the shelves or get pulled within a few months. you can try cleaning it with TB cleaner like some said or WD 40 but make sure you wipe it really clean before installing it back on. if you buy one and it looks nothing like the OE take it back chances are the GENIUS at the auto parts that doesnt even know how to change oil but for some reason has a job there gave you the wrong one OR the computer system for the store/company pulls up the wrong one. point is...
go to advance or autozone, ask for it. pull out your old one, if it looks nothing like the old one take it back and try another store like pep boys, a private auto parts dealer, or even walmart i think sells them ?!
and dont just grab one off the shelf actually look for it because youll notice that there might be like 3 or 4 that look the same, thats because they all open at different pressures due to engine design/compression.
buy an aftermarket, save money
waste those dollars on good oil and a good filter
go to advance or autozone, ask for it. pull out your old one, if it looks nothing like the old one take it back and try another store like pep boys, a private auto parts dealer, or even walmart i think sells them ?!
and dont just grab one off the shelf actually look for it because youll notice that there might be like 3 or 4 that look the same, thats because they all open at different pressures due to engine design/compression.
buy an aftermarket, save money
waste those dollars on good oil and a good filter
#28
Originally Posted by ManualMaxima
then you must of gotten the wrong one......the one ffom autozone for out cars is PCV169, and side by side it was the exact same when i looked at it. it went in 100% okay and i had no problems with it at all.
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