My Max is throwing this code and I need to know where it is so I can see what's wrong. As always help is appreciated, thanks...

 

It's the part that usually gets smushed by an FSTB. We had a thread about it earlier but I can't find it so I'll just go take a pic now.

 

that thar shiny black thingamajig.

 

thanks dude for the help, guess I gotta get it off now and go get a new one...

 

That is an evap valve, but the evap CANNISTER VENT control valve is mounted to your cannister with 2 bolts, directly behind your drivers rear wheel, under the car. These are notorious for going bad. Often times when these fail, pumping gas at the station can be a nightmare, as the pump will tend to stop quite often for no apparent reason, multiple times while fueling up..
This is a dealer item, and lists around $95. A busy Nissan dealer will have them in stock.
DJ

 

could this cause you to smell gas at stoplights? just trouble shooting.

did it only throw 1 code?

 

Damn, I was having second thoughts about that... "wait a minute, was it really the canister vent valve or the canister purge valve?"

 

ok, it's the vent control valve that's bad. my dad has a shop so I get 10% over dealer price or sometimes at cost if they are stuck with something they can't move, hopefully they have one I can get before the weekend.

would this have any effect on how the car runs?

 

yes, sometimes it can affect drivability..

Morpheus - yep, the one that definately does get crushed under FSTBs is the PURGE valve! I had to replace mine, cuz the fsb wore a hole in it! LoL Hadda do a lil modding to the fstb mounts..
DJ

 

looks like im getting both of em' and doing my KS at the same time-GREAT

 

FYI:

I have a 98 SE which was throwing a 1440 and 1448 code for the vent control valve. According to the TSB and FSM, it says that my valve was stuck open, which depressurizes the system. I thought it could be my gas cap, but a new didn't fix the problem. I called the discount dealer for a quote -- $95.00 because they recently went up (everythingnissan.com). I went to pull the evap canister to see if there was any moisture in the system that could show a faulty water separater as well.

I got the old canister out no problem (make sure you watch out for the plastic outlet tubes on the front that easily snap off) and turned it on its side -- no water, etc. came out of the vent valve, so that was encouraging. But, when I tried to remove the vent control valve, one bolt came out fine and the second just kept turning. To make a long story short, the mounting "nuts" are sandwiched in the plastic housing and they can break free, making it nearly impossible to remove the bolt. I ended up nearly destroying my perfectly good canister trying to wedge a knife with a slightly bent tip in between the valve edge and the canister housing to try and keep the nut from turning. After removing it, I figured it wouldn't seal properly because some of the plastic started to split near the opening where the o-ring seats.

I purchased another canister and vent valve assembly as a unit from a parts car for $40.00 and when I received it in the mail, I once again tried to remove the valve to see if I could make sure there was no crap/rust on the valve piston. Once again, one bolt came right out and as soon as the second nut began to turn in the canister, I stopped for fear of ruining another canister.

Total PITA. I figured you should be aware that it may be a common problem on our 4th Gens and you may have to either go my route and gamble or buy a new canister if you experience the same thing I did, twice. So far, everything seems to work correctly with the used canister and valve, knock on wood.

Good luck!!

Ted, Chicago

 

Yes, these are a common problem on our gen max.. it is USUALLY that valve, and unfortunately it usually IS a problem to get them off the cannister. Like I said before, $95 for the valve new at the stealer, and if you HAVE TO replace the cannister, around $150 for that! This is your problem.. good luck getting the valve off the cannister.. be gentle. Either way, when you put it back (whether with or without a new cannister) use some anti-seize on those bolts! This will help avoid this dilemma next time.
DJ'

 

thanks for the encouraging news guys(sarcasm), can't wait to go get started...

probly just endup getting both things so I don't have to worry about the nut thing.

 

You may still have to try and remove the vent valve to get the mounting bolts, unless you take the new canister to the hardware store and get the proper bolts (I believe they are 10mm IRC, but I don't know the length and thread size). Try stainless bolts and some anti-seize and you should never have this problem again.

Good luck.

Ted, Chicago

 

I was thinking about something before I buy this stuff:
aren't these parts emissions equipment-and aren't dealers required to
warranty ALL emissions equipment for 10 years after model year(97' until
2007)?
Thought I heard this somewhere...

 

i have the purge valve code and the ks code, is one able to trigger the other? the thread said to take apart the device and try to blow through it unpowered and powered with 12v test leads. if it passes this test, then the issue is in the wiring i presume?