Well....I've probably read a hundred posts regarding handling issues, and have very similar symptoms. I've replaced struts, strut bearings and sway bar end links and bushings. I've inspected ball joints and tie rods, which look fine; and rotated tires. The two remaining symptoms include a left-side clunk over bumps at low speeds and quick drift when taking a sweeping high speed right turn or during acceleration during [automatic] shifts. The clunk isn't my biggest complaint...But the unpredictable drift is an issue. I'm thinking of taking the shotgun approach with replacing the LCA, but would like to feel better about the move. Does anyone have suggestions on how to inspect and diagnose problems with the LCA bushings?

 

Take them off and look at them. You can see both of them bushings easily without removing the balljoint.

Dave

 

Strut insulator on the mount wasn't mentioned as being checked or replaced?

 

The strut mount insulator and bracket were both fine.

 

So....If I remove the 6 bolts under the LCA, I can drop it enough to inspect the bushings without disassembling the rest?

 

i'm not sure which 6 bolts you are refering to, but you don't really need to take any bolts off. the lca bushings hold the lca on to the frame /chassis of the car. if you want, you can take the big nut off of the front bushing and get a real clear view of it. I think the nut is 27mm (a 1 1/16 in wrench fits). the pivot bolt/stud should be perfectly centered in the bushing.

 

The front suspension diagram shows a "compression rod bushing" that is held to the subframe with a compression rod bushing clamp by 3 bolts. It's this bushing, in addition to the link pin bushing that I thought might also be suspect.

 

you're right. they are both suspect and should be checked. from what i've read here in the org, it seems that the front bushing is more likely to be the one that goes bad.

 

Thanks for the feedback....I'll check 'em both.

 

Sorry I didn't answer earlier: yes, you can. If you unbolt all the big (22mm?) bolts that hold the inner part of the arm to the frame, the only things holding it are the ball joint and end link. At that point you should have plenty to see/inspect if the bushings are solid.

 

That may work but there is alot of pressure on that assembly pushing against those 3 bolts. Try and keep the strut and wheel assm from pushing against it when you undo.

 

Good point. I usually use my floor jack to lift under the ball joint.

Dave

 

Thanks all.....especially dgeesaman....I see by many of your posts re: this subject that you can feel my pain. Sounds like you've been all through these problems.

thanks again

 

Did you get the wheels off of the ground to check the ball joints and inner & outer tie rods?? You can't just visually look at them and tell that they are good or not you gotta shake it down. Where are you hearing the noise over bumps. As for the drifting issue sounds like someone is going too fast on tires that dont like to grip at high speeds.

 

The drifting happened at both low and high speeds on Potenzas with about 5K miles on them. I had done all of the standard tests for ball joints and tie rods....and inspected the LCA bushings according to the above info. Then I had my son rock the steering wheel back & forth while I watched the tie rod. At this moment, I suspect the left inner tie rod...which seems to be loose.

 

okay, i seem to be having the same clunks as rickalodeon, and i think my lca bushings are bad too. but how can u tell its just the bushings that are bad and not the entire control arm??? i had this same symptom in an old camry i had and i had to change the entire arm which came w/ the bushings..

any advice on how to diagnose the arm itself?