what r the best spark plug for the 4 gen?
06-05-2006, 07:52 AM
#3
NGK copper if you want a better burn with frequent changes, about 30K
NGK platinums if you wants a factory burn with longer change intervals, about 75K
NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK
NGK platinums if you wants a factory burn with longer change intervals, about 75K
NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK NGK
06-05-2006, 08:26 AM
#4
Denso plugs are fine. Jeez.
Copper (e.g. NGK V-Power) gives the performance and costs the least. You have to change them every 15k-30k miles, but that will still be cheaper than buying platinum or iridium. On the other hand, it can get tedious to change your plugs that often, and generally you want to minimize the number of opportunities for dropping gunk into your engine...
Platinum is what came with your car originally. It works well and lasts a long time (~60k miles). There's no reason to buy it over iridium, though...
Iridium plugs are the best right now. Denso Iridiums give the best spark and last 40k-60k miles; NGK Iridiums don't spark quite as well, but they will last over 100k miles. Either one will spark as well as or better than copper (and of course much better than platinum).
Copper (e.g. NGK V-Power) gives the performance and costs the least. You have to change them every 15k-30k miles, but that will still be cheaper than buying platinum or iridium. On the other hand, it can get tedious to change your plugs that often, and generally you want to minimize the number of opportunities for dropping gunk into your engine...
Platinum is what came with your car originally. It works well and lasts a long time (~60k miles). There's no reason to buy it over iridium, though...
Iridium plugs are the best right now. Denso Iridiums give the best spark and last 40k-60k miles; NGK Iridiums don't spark quite as well, but they will last over 100k miles. Either one will spark as well as or better than copper (and of course much better than platinum).
06-05-2006, 05:05 PM
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 241
Originally Posted by Eyemfaster
when do you know when to replace them, just by looking at them or what?
06-05-2006, 05:52 PM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 60
Try this site :
http://www2.nisspartswholesale.com/p...k+Plug&dp=true
has good OEM parts at lot less than dealer.
Hope this info is helpful !!!
http://www2.nisspartswholesale.com/p...k+Plug&dp=true
has good OEM parts at lot less than dealer.
Hope this info is helpful !!!
06-05-2006, 05:54 PM
#11
Originally Posted by MikAus
Try this site :
http://www2.nisspartswholesale.com/p...k+Plug&dp=true
has good OEM parts at lot less than dealer.
Hope this info is helpful !!!
http://www2.nisspartswholesale.com/p...k+Plug&dp=true
has good OEM parts at lot less than dealer.
Hope this info is helpful !!!
06-05-2006, 07:34 PM
#15
I take really good care of my car, but I let changing the spark plugs go a little long. I bought my car used in January 2004 with 40K miles on it, and now it has 85K miles (many highway miles). I have done all of the routine maintenance, (oil and filter change every 3K miles, radiator flushed each fall, new pads and rotors, and new belts) except for changing the spark plugs and wires and now my check engine light has come on. I had a local garage read the code, and the code is as follows: PO 420. Apparently it indicates a catalyst problem in Bank 1. Now, I am not overly familiar with this, so does anyone know what might be my problem? The guy at the garage said he thinks it could be the fuel injectors, but I really find that hard to believe. I ran fuel injector cleaner, and always run 93 octane gas. So I am hoping to change the plugs and wires, reset the computer and the check engine light will go away. Denso Iridium plugs seem to have some quality, which wires would you use? Thanks in advance for any help.
06-05-2006, 09:38 PM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 6,190
Originally Posted by MTVTMaxima
I take really good care of my car, but I let changing the spark plugs go a little long. I bought my car used in January 2004 with 40K miles on it, and now it has 85K miles (many highway miles). I have done all of the routine maintenance, (oil and filter change every 3K miles, radiator flushed each fall, new pads and rotors, and new belts) except for changing the spark plugs and wires and now my check engine light has come on. I had a local garage read the code, and the code is as follows: PO 420. Apparently it indicates a catalyst problem in Bank 1. Now, I am not overly familiar with this, so does anyone know what might be my problem? The guy at the garage said he thinks it could be the fuel injectors, but I really find that hard to believe. I ran fuel injector cleaner, and always run 93 octane gas. So I am hoping to change the plugs and wires, reset the computer and the check engine light will go away. Denso Iridium plugs seem to have some quality, which wires would you use? Thanks in advance for any help.
On a separate subject, you don't need to flush your radiator every year, by the way! That is a waste of time and money. Do a pH test with the tester strip. You should be able to go 2 years/30K without flushing the radiator and could extend it beyond 2 years if you drive less.
06-06-2006, 05:01 AM
#18
I am new concerning my Maxima engine, thus my reason for thinking there were spark plug wires. To be honest, I never really looked for the spark plugs on the Max, and I am embarrassed to say that I just went out and quickly looked under the hood and I couldn't tell you for sure where the hell the spark plugs are on the engine block. I had two Mustangs and those engines were really easy to work on (I only did light work). Is there a particular maintenance book I should purchase? I know the Hayne's manual isn't usually the best, but would that do?
Also concerning my problem I would think that if my plugs are bad, I would see a noticeable difference in performance like a rough idle, poor acceleration, etc. However, my car runs great, except for the check engine light being on and giving me a PO 420 code. Does anyone know anything about this?
Bobo, thanks for the advice on radiator flushing.
Also concerning my problem I would think that if my plugs are bad, I would see a noticeable difference in performance like a rough idle, poor acceleration, etc. However, my car runs great, except for the check engine light being on and giving me a PO 420 code. Does anyone know anything about this?
Bobo, thanks for the advice on radiator flushing.
06-06-2006, 07:40 AM
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 27
On the off chance it is something to do with your spark plug system, your coilpack on cylinder1 could be starting to get faulty. Reset the ECU code then if the SES light comes back on then you know something is going wrong. My ECU was displaying a SES based on the EVAP sensor i reset it a year ago and hasn't come back on .
06-06-2006, 09:46 AM
#21
Originally Posted by z0dE
On the off chance it is something to do with your spark plug system, your coilpack on cylinder1 could be starting to get faulty. Reset the ECU code then if the SES light comes back on then you know something is going wrong. My ECU was displaying a SES based on the EVAP sensor i reset it a year ago and hasn't come back on .
I had the ECU code reset, and it came back on two weeks later. Like I said I am not overly concerned because my car runs great, but I don't want the SES light to keep coming back on, and obviously I would like to fix the problem. So does anyone know how I drill down to what exactly is the problem? With Ford's, the ECU code was very specific, but from what the mechanic said the PO 420 code could be a range of things. So, since I have never replaced the spark plugs, I figured that I will start there, and then see what kind of feedback I get here as to what I should do next?? Since there are no wires, when changing the spark plugs, does anything else need to be done? Thanks for your feedback.
06-06-2006, 12:44 PM
#22
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Denso plugs are fine. Jeez.
Copper (e.g. NGK V-Power) gives the performance and costs the least. You have to change them every 15k-30k miles, but that will still be cheaper than buying platinum or iridium. On the other hand, it can get tedious to change your plugs that often, and generally you want to minimize the number of opportunities for dropping gunk into your engine...
Platinum is what came with your car originally. It works well and lasts a long time (~60k miles). There's no reason to buy it over iridium, though...
Iridium plugs are the best right now. Denso Iridiums give the best spark and last 40k-60k miles; NGK Iridiums don't spark quite as well, but they will last over 100k miles. Either one will spark as well as or better than copper (and of course much better than platinum).
Copper (e.g. NGK V-Power) gives the performance and costs the least. You have to change them every 15k-30k miles, but that will still be cheaper than buying platinum or iridium. On the other hand, it can get tedious to change your plugs that often, and generally you want to minimize the number of opportunities for dropping gunk into your engine...
Platinum is what came with your car originally. It works well and lasts a long time (~60k miles). There's no reason to buy it over iridium, though...
Iridium plugs are the best right now. Denso Iridiums give the best spark and last 40k-60k miles; NGK Iridiums don't spark quite as well, but they will last over 100k miles. Either one will spark as well as or better than copper (and of course much better than platinum).
You guys know that there are 2 types of Iridium plugs, right? Can someone come up with the better iridium part #'s? Be they NGK or Denso...
Thx
06-06-2006, 05:00 PM
#23
Originally Posted by 95bluse
You guys know that there are 2 types of Iridium plugs, right? Can someone come up with the better iridium part #'s? Be they NGK or Denso...
Thx
Thx
The Denso plugs I was talking about were the Iridium Power; the NGK plugs I was talking about were the Iridium IX.
I think Denso also came out with an iridium plug optimized for life rather than performance, but if you're gonna go that route you might as well just go for NGK's iridium plugs.
06-06-2006, 05:21 PM
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
As far as the ECU, my bet is...You are going to end up replacing all of your coils, all plugs, and then your O2 sensor. All in all...You are going to need that done anyways. Anything above 75K miles, and all three are going to need some attention. Plugs? go with the NGK's...Coils? Go to Courtesy or NISMOparts.com. O2 sensor? I went down to NAPA. You may want to check your PCV valve while you are in there too...
06-06-2006, 06:02 PM
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 821
Originally Posted by Judas
As far as the ECU, my bet is...You are going to end up replacing all of your coils, all plugs, and then your O2 sensor. All in all...You are going to need that done anyways. Anything above 75K miles, and all three are going to need some attention. Plugs? go with the NGK's...Coils? Go to Courtesy or NISMOparts.com. O2 sensor? I went down to NAPA. You may want to check your PCV valve while you are in there too...
06-06-2006, 06:31 PM
#27
Originally Posted by Dexter
how would I know if coils need replacing?
-turn car on.
-start by removing 1 ignition coil at a time.
-if the engine begins to bog or idle rough, put coil back in because its fine.
-if you remove a coil and it does not affect the engine or idle at all, it is a bad coil. Replace it.
06-06-2006, 08:19 PM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 821
Originally Posted by 99se5speed
-remove bolts so that the coils can be easily removed, but dont remove them.
-turn car on.
-start by removing 1 ignition coil at a time.
-if the engine begins to bog or idle rough, put coil back in because its fine.
-if you remove a coil and it does not affect the engine or idle at all, it is a bad coil. Replace it.
-turn car on.
-start by removing 1 ignition coil at a time.
-if the engine begins to bog or idle rough, put coil back in because its fine.
-if you remove a coil and it does not affect the engine or idle at all, it is a bad coil. Replace it.
06-06-2006, 09:38 PM
#29
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 27
It will jsut result in non-firing cylinders, only thing that can happen is flooded cylinder and wasted gas. If your coilpack is bad then its mostlikely not firing all the time or non of the time. In which case you should replace it before it corodes your spark plug. Oh, and something else, you might want to make sure the car is off when replacing the coils, just to reduce the risk of shocking your self :-D
06-07-2006, 04:35 AM
#32
Originally Posted by z0dE
It will jsut result in non-firing cylinders, only thing that can happen is flooded cylinder and wasted gas. If your coilpack is bad then its mostlikely not firing all the time or non of the time. In which case you should replace it before it corodes your spark plug. Oh, and something else, you might want to make sure the car is off when replacing the coils, just to reduce the risk of shocking your self :-D
The coil packs are completely sealed, and the wiring harness connectors are female. There is absolutely no risk of shocking yourself unless you connect a coil pack and somehow jam a finger up into where the spark plug fits.
But connecting and disconnecting electrical parts through which so much power flows is a great way to burn them up. You will be causing some pretty violent surges and dips in voltage, and there is a risk that those can damage the coils or other parts of the ignition circuit.
06-07-2006, 05:54 AM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 821
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Replacing your coils with the car running is dangerous, but connecting and disconnecting them is not? You have it backwards.
The coil packs are completely sealed, and the wiring harness connectors are female. There is absolutely no risk of shocking yourself unless you connect a coil pack and somehow jam a finger up into where the spark plug fits.
But connecting and disconnecting electrical parts through which so much power flows is a great way to burn them up. You will be causing some pretty violent surges and dips in voltage, and there is a risk that those can damage the coils or other parts of the ignition circuit.
The coil packs are completely sealed, and the wiring harness connectors are female. There is absolutely no risk of shocking yourself unless you connect a coil pack and somehow jam a finger up into where the spark plug fits.
But connecting and disconnecting electrical parts through which so much power flows is a great way to burn them up. You will be causing some pretty violent surges and dips in voltage, and there is a risk that those can damage the coils or other parts of the ignition circuit.
When I changed my plugs I took a look into the cyl's and none of them seemed flooded. So I guess I'm not having trouble there.
06-07-2006, 06:44 AM
#34
Originally Posted by d00df00d
...Uh... What "types"?
The Denso plugs I was talking about were the Iridium Power; the NGK plugs I was talking about were the Iridium IX.
I think Denso also came out with an iridium plug optimized for life rather than performance, but if you're gonna go that route you might as well just go for NGK's iridium plugs.
The Denso plugs I was talking about were the Iridium Power; the NGK plugs I was talking about were the Iridium IX.
I think Denso also came out with an iridium plug optimized for life rather than performance, but if you're gonna go that route you might as well just go for NGK's iridium plugs.
I'm not sure about the Denso Iridiums, but there are two different NGK Iridiums:
- IFR5E-11 --> this has an iridium tip & platinum ground - $11.71 ea
- BKR5EIX-11 --> only the tip is Iridium, ground is not - $6.95 each
Source : http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1211409
Hence, the BKR5EIX-11 is "similar" to the single platinum plugs (BKR5EGP) which are available for a much lower price than the double platinum (PFR5G-11).
As you can see from the link provided, the IFR5E-11/BKR5EIX-11 & PFR5G-11are marketed as "Premium class" plugs with longevity being IFR5E-11>PFR5G-11>BKR5EIX-11.
Incidentally, I've had the BKR5EIX-11 & PFR5G-11 in my car & couldn't tell the difference. I currently run NGK coppers.
06-07-2006, 12:58 PM
#36
Originally Posted by 95bluse
I'm not sure about the Denso Iridiums, but there are two different NGK Iridiums:
- IFR5E-11 --> this has an iridium tip & platinum ground - $11.71 ea
- BKR5EIX-11 --> only the tip is Iridium, ground is not - $6.95 each
Source : http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1211409
Hence, the BKR5EIX-11 is "similar" to the single platinum plugs (BKR5EGP) which are available for a much lower price than the double platinum (PFR5G-11).
As you can see from the link provided, the IFR5E-11/BKR5EIX-11 & PFR5G-11are marketed as "Premium class" plugs with longevity being IFR5E-11>PFR5G-11>BKR5EIX-11.
- IFR5E-11 --> this has an iridium tip & platinum ground - $11.71 ea
- BKR5EIX-11 --> only the tip is Iridium, ground is not - $6.95 each
Source : http://www.ngk.com/results_app.asp?AAIA=1211409
Hence, the BKR5EIX-11 is "similar" to the single platinum plugs (BKR5EGP) which are available for a much lower price than the double platinum (PFR5G-11).
As you can see from the link provided, the IFR5E-11/BKR5EIX-11 & PFR5G-11are marketed as "Premium class" plugs with longevity being IFR5E-11>PFR5G-11>BKR5EIX-11.
I think you got a couple of things wrong, though.
The key distinction is that the BKR plug (Iridium IX) has the fine wire center electrode tip, while the IFR plug (plain Iridium) has a more normal-size electrode tip (same as the platinum plug). So...
Power: BKR > IFR > PFR
Longevity: IFR (120k+) > BKR (100k) > PFR (60k)
And of course, the Denso Iridium Power plug will be better in power than all of them (it has a much finer center electrode tip than even the BKR), but won't last more than 50k miles or so.
06-07-2006, 10:25 PM
#37
Alright, but in the end how much of a difference will you actually notice between platinums and Denso iridiums? Yes they may burn hotter but how much of a difference will it really make?
Has anyone actually dynoed different plugs? Although I suppose it would vary from engine to engine..?
(that's a lot of question marks)
Has anyone actually dynoed different plugs? Although I suppose it would vary from engine to engine..?
(that's a lot of question marks)
06-08-2006, 04:47 AM
#38
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Alright, but in the end how much of a difference will you actually notice between platinums and Denso iridiums? Yes they may burn hotter but how much of a difference will it really make?
In terms of the butt dyno, though... not so much, honestly. It would make a clear difference with extensive mods (think FI), but on a stock or near-stock engine the differences will not be easily perceptible. And before anyone asks, an intake, cams, VI, headers, and cat-back don't even remotely count as extensive mods.
I noticed small differences in mileage and power... but I am UBER picky about these things when I'm given the chance, so I latch on to any difference I find, even if it's tiny. I also drive my car every damn day, and I'm harder on it than most people I know...
Except my one friend with the Jetta. But eh, you know... some Jetta drivers...
Originally Posted by MorpheusZero
Has anyone actually dynoed different plugs? Although I suppose it would vary from engine to engine..?
(that's a lot of question marks)
(that's a lot of question marks)
Again, mileage would likely be the more easily measurable indicator.
06-08-2006, 05:30 AM
#39
Originally Posted by d00df00d
Ah, right. Forgot about the NGK IFR plug.
I think you got a couple of things wrong, though.
The key distinction is that the BKR plug (Iridium IX) has the fine wire center electrode tip, while the IFR plug (plain Iridium) has a more normal-size electrode tip (same as the platinum plug). So...
Power: BKR > IFR > PFR
Longevity: IFR (120k+) > BKR (100k) > PFR (60k)
And of course, the Denso Iridium Power plug will be better in power than all of them (it has a much finer center electrode tip than even the BKR), but won't last more than 50k miles or so.
I think you got a couple of things wrong, though.
The key distinction is that the BKR plug (Iridium IX) has the fine wire center electrode tip, while the IFR plug (plain Iridium) has a more normal-size electrode tip (same as the platinum plug). So...
Power: BKR > IFR > PFR
Longevity: IFR (120k+) > BKR (100k) > PFR (60k)
And of course, the Denso Iridium Power plug will be better in power than all of them (it has a much finer center electrode tip than even the BKR), but won't last more than 50k miles or so.
06-08-2006, 05:49 AM
#40
Originally Posted by 95bluse
Hmm..I missed that "fine wire" feature on the IX series. Agree with you on that then. My assumption that the double platinum would last longer than the IX was based on the fact that the ground was not coated with iridium. The PFR's ground in platinum-plated...oh well who knows?
But the PFR, BKR, and IFR all have platinum ground electrodes anyway. Almost all of the regular wear and tear on a spark plug is at the center electrode in the first place, so that's what matters most for longevity.
Never forget... Iridium is superior to platinum in every way that matters in a spark plug. The only reason platinum was ever used instead of iridium is that the technology to make spark plugs from iridium was not widely and cheaply available until fairly recently.