Knock Sensor replacement
#44
Changed out my KS yesterday, and it was easier than I ever thought. Used a 3/8" socket & rachet with universal joint and a long extension to remove. I also bought a new harness and found that changing the harness was more work than changing the KS. I used a long piece of thin, flat metal (miscellaneous junk I found in my garage) to push the new KS over the bolt hole to align, then used a 1/4" drive socket with univeral joint and extension to start threading it in the hole. I had already lightly taped the bolt to the socket with electrical tape. Finished up with the 3/8" socket and drive and universal joint to finish and get enough torque on the bolt. Didn't cut my hands up because I used the thin, flat metal piece to line up the KS before installing the bolt...so I never stuck my hand in there at all. The only quirks I had with this system is leaving behind the sockets and universal joints when I tried to remove them after tightening the KS bolt. Used a magnetic pickup tool to easily fish them out each time.
Overall, the car is much improved. I feel like I have much more torque and HP back at the low end, and highway cruising is effortless with minimal throttle to maintain 65 mph. The car feels much more like what it did when it was new.
Overall, the car is much improved. I feel like I have much more torque and HP back at the low end, and highway cruising is effortless with minimal throttle to maintain 65 mph. The car feels much more like what it did when it was new.
#45
replaced the Knock sensor today...
Hey fellows,
i finally replaced the KS today, i had been putting it off for a few months.
My CEL was on, previously it had the KS code and O2 code, I had reset it a few weeks back, and the light came back ON. Today after changing the KS, the codes were for KS and P0400 (EGR i think), I have reset the codes, i'll wait and see if the other codes come back on. Also while monitoring the O2 sensors, thru the OBDII, the O2 reading were oscillating on 2 sensors, but flatlined on the third... i guess i'll wait and see if that throws a code.
Ok, now the rant about actaully changing the KS:
call me a wus.. but took me a good hr and a half to do it.. i was using the skippynet method of using the 1/4" socket with a U-joint, and a 6" extension, i must have gotten the socket on the bolt like 6 - 7 times, but each time as i tried to put some torque on it, the socket would slip off, and there was just too much twist in the u-joint and the extension to make this method work, after about an hour in 110 deg. weather (under a car port..) I was cursing, sobbing over my cut-up hands and ready to give up, i started packing my tools up and was laminting the lose of a good $225 bucks i'll have to give the neighbourhood mechanic to do it. Ofcourse their story for this highway robbery is that they have to remove the intake...buloney...
I took a little breather.. replaced the airfilter , and started to acess the situation, I was getting pretty good at 'feeling' the KS bolt and the only reason for failure was that i couldn't get any torque to the socket. So i broke out the 12mm 3/8" socket wrench, and got it over the bolt, next i picked up a medium screw driver and stuck it into a hole on the engine block with the wrench coming across the screw driver, and applied some pressure, (i can send pictures i anyone ..after reading this far wants to attempt this method), I heard the bolt breaking loose.. and then it was downhill from here, i gingerly unscrew the bolt, it came off pretty easily. Put the new KS on the harness removing the metal clip holder.. do not try to take the brownish connector its so brittle that mine cracked a little when i tried to pry it. I put a little tape on the bolt to hold it in place in the KS, hand tightend it till snug, then used a 12mm 1/4" socket wrench to tighten it..
If i have to do it again...i'll use gloves with finger hole cut-offs, take a tylenol before sticking my hand in there.. and it should probably take me under 15 min....
Well, thanks for reading my rant, i feel much better, my hands are a different story ...
i finally replaced the KS today, i had been putting it off for a few months.
My CEL was on, previously it had the KS code and O2 code, I had reset it a few weeks back, and the light came back ON. Today after changing the KS, the codes were for KS and P0400 (EGR i think), I have reset the codes, i'll wait and see if the other codes come back on. Also while monitoring the O2 sensors, thru the OBDII, the O2 reading were oscillating on 2 sensors, but flatlined on the third... i guess i'll wait and see if that throws a code.
Ok, now the rant about actaully changing the KS:
call me a wus.. but took me a good hr and a half to do it.. i was using the skippynet method of using the 1/4" socket with a U-joint, and a 6" extension, i must have gotten the socket on the bolt like 6 - 7 times, but each time as i tried to put some torque on it, the socket would slip off, and there was just too much twist in the u-joint and the extension to make this method work, after about an hour in 110 deg. weather (under a car port..) I was cursing, sobbing over my cut-up hands and ready to give up, i started packing my tools up and was laminting the lose of a good $225 bucks i'll have to give the neighbourhood mechanic to do it. Ofcourse their story for this highway robbery is that they have to remove the intake...buloney...
I took a little breather.. replaced the airfilter , and started to acess the situation, I was getting pretty good at 'feeling' the KS bolt and the only reason for failure was that i couldn't get any torque to the socket. So i broke out the 12mm 3/8" socket wrench, and got it over the bolt, next i picked up a medium screw driver and stuck it into a hole on the engine block with the wrench coming across the screw driver, and applied some pressure, (i can send pictures i anyone ..after reading this far wants to attempt this method), I heard the bolt breaking loose.. and then it was downhill from here, i gingerly unscrew the bolt, it came off pretty easily. Put the new KS on the harness removing the metal clip holder.. do not try to take the brownish connector its so brittle that mine cracked a little when i tried to pry it. I put a little tape on the bolt to hold it in place in the KS, hand tightend it till snug, then used a 12mm 1/4" socket wrench to tighten it..
If i have to do it again...i'll use gloves with finger hole cut-offs, take a tylenol before sticking my hand in there.. and it should probably take me under 15 min....
Well, thanks for reading my rant, i feel much better, my hands are a different story ...
#46
haha newbs.. its not that bad, like I said battlescars and beer = good.
btw I got a new cellphone check it out.
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y91...rent=sony2.jpg
it rotates instead of sliding or flipping and it does this amazing thing and makes boring threads like this kinda fun.. at least to me.
btw I got a new cellphone check it out.
http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y91...rent=sony2.jpg
it rotates instead of sliding or flipping and it does this amazing thing and makes boring threads like this kinda fun.. at least to me.
#49
Originally Posted by zeeshan73
dude.. who you calling newbie?... i was on this forum while you were in diapers...
Originally Posted by gmax96
apparition ur OFF topic! any way back to the topic, my car runs smooth now, no hesitation whatsoever and has more power on lower rpms. no im actually feeling teh power of PREMIUM GASOLINA
ps. this thread was over a long time ago. get off it seriously its nothing new.
#51
Originally Posted by samito
i just did my KS it took me about ten min. i used a 12mm socket/swivel/9 in extension 3/8 drive ratchet. i also had a code 325-car runs smoother and i no longer have a ping at 3500 rpms-hoping my gas mileage goes up-
you will possibly see lots of ping, as i did, if you relocate you ks to your battery tray...
#52
I just replaced my knock sensor as well. I had a hard time with it initially. First, I started trying to loosen it with a 12 mm wrench inside the cavity, but there was not enough room to get any torque on the bolt. Then I tried a 10" extension with a u-joint to a 12mm socket, this didn't work either because it kept on slipping off. Finally I went to sears and picked up a 12mm swivel socket, which finally worked for me. The engine is not throwing any codes so I'm assuming it will be ok.
#53
Wow, I chose to take off both the manifolds, and let me tell you, it is frickin nuts. not worth it, just use the wrench from the side.
yeah, i am going okay, I am cleaning out the EGR at the same time. So far I've gotten everything off except for the bottom manifold (just need to undo more screws)
parts that got broke along the way. (2 small gas hoses, they would not come out, so i had to use a razor to cut them) 2 hose clips, some weird plastic bracket that doesnt do much, and i also busted a little adapter in my wrench set lost a little fuel and coolant on the driveway.
and i stripped a screw (so i removed that part from my car and will have to get that fixed by somebody)
other than that i did pretty well
yeah, i am going okay, I am cleaning out the EGR at the same time. So far I've gotten everything off except for the bottom manifold (just need to undo more screws)
parts that got broke along the way. (2 small gas hoses, they would not come out, so i had to use a razor to cut them) 2 hose clips, some weird plastic bracket that doesnt do much, and i also busted a little adapter in my wrench set lost a little fuel and coolant on the driveway.
and i stripped a screw (so i removed that part from my car and will have to get that fixed by somebody)
other than that i did pretty well
#54
Originally Posted by zeeshan73
Hey, no offense taken, i was just mess'n with you...
ditto: this thread is ...getting lame.
ditto: this thread is ...getting lame.
#55
hey guys where can you find a 12mm universal socket? i went just about everywhere (home depot, strauss auto, autozone, local hardware store). it's pretty hard to find just that one little (but important) piece. i even tried using a 3/8 ratchet with a 10" extension, 3/8 u-joint, 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor(the 12mm was a 1/4" rather than 3/8", and 12mm socket, i still couldnt get the socket into the bolt b/c the 1/4 adaptor made it too long.
#56
sears has it for sure. i used a 10 inches 1/4 inch drive extension and a 12mm universal joint. it took me weeks to replace it cuz i was afraid that sh*t might happen and not be able to use my car but on sunday ive done it in less than an hour with the help of my brothers kind of skinny hands to hand tighten the bolt and BAM! finally done it runs WAY BETTER than ever since i had my car.
#57
Go to Sears...most of my sockets are from them. I also bought a set of 3 u joints...1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 in a set a while back. I had no problem with clearance with any of the combinations. A 1/4 socket and 1/4 u joint followed by the 3/8 adapter will also fit.
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