So I made my own grounding kit, and I still have a lot of wire left to work with. I've only done 4 ground points so far, so I'd like to do some more just to make use of the remaining wire.

So far, I have the same 4 grounding points as the Active Tuning grounding kit:
1. Battery to chassis
2. Motor (1) to chassis
3. Motor (2) to chassis
4. Intake plenum to chassis

What other ground points could I do?

Also, quick question: Is it better to ground things straight to the chassis, or should I try running some wires around to ground certain parts to the battery? For example, I'm following a guide and the person grounds the alternator to the motor, and then he grounds the alternator to the battery. What are the benefits of doing it like so? Couldn't I just ground the alternator to the chassis?

And for those who are wondering, the grounding kit helped, but I don't believe it made a significant difference. The Max does seem to start easier, lights are brighter, and overall, everything seems to be smoother. I wouldn't recommend buying a kit, but if you're making your own, it's good bang for the buck.

 

There are also starter, alternator, fuel injector and knock sensor, and transimission grounds. Also, I guess you can run another to the factor ground. Have you notice any better mpg gains with it?

 

I just installed it tonight so I can't really say

 

Alright, someone directed me to this guide so I'm going to give those a shot.

Edit: Dumb question: Is it better to ground things straight to the chassis, or should I try running some wires around to ground certain parts to the battery? For example, in the above guide, the person grounds the alternator to the motor, and then he grounds the alternator to the battery. What are the benefits of doing it like so?

 

I need to do mine again, I wired up a few points and the car immediately turned on the CEL. Gotta figure out what I did and reconsult that guide.

 

When I had my grounding kit, I grounded the knock sensor and fuel injector grounds, and it didn't start and when it did, it drove like $hit!

 

Weird...

 

Yeah, I'd just stick to the basics like you did to avoid any complications.

 

Can someone give me feedback on this?

 

It won't matter too much. As long as all contact points have high conductance.. ie aren't rusted or covered in paint etc. Theoretically the best would be having everything go directly to the battery ground so you eliminate the possibility of gaining more resistance through dirty ground points. Best thing to do is make sure you sand down where you bolt the wires to so that bare metal is exposed, and maybe apply some dielectric grease.

 

Thanks for the input!

 

I've also heard grounding the alternator helps with eliminating spikes from your radio (Aftermarket). I think this is true b/c the alternator is not directly connected to the engine. Its more like a braket is used. I still need to investigate this though.

 

I ran my grounding kit as follows:

1. (-) battery terminal to existing grounding site on frame below, and to the right of the fuse box on driver's side.

2. Cylinder head to existing grounding site on frame near filler tube for window washer.

3. Intake manifold to existing grounding site on frame near where #2 was attached.

4. Timing valve cover to frame under the cruise control servo vaccum.

I skipped a loop that would have had me going from #1 to a spot on the transmission, and then on to #2.

The reason I skipped it was that I was basically lazy -- I would have had to take out the battery and battery tray in order to get to the right spot on the tranny...and since I had just installed a new battery before doing the grounding wires, I did not feel like pulling it out and putting it back in.

BTW, I also have a voltage stabiizer hooked to the battery and #1 grounding wire. I'd be happy to provide photos, if you like.