99 se cali to fed swap complete
07-17-2006, 03:51 PM
#1
99 se cali to fed swap complete
well i did it this weekend and let me tell you its 100% a$$ dyno certified
heres the run down on parts :
fed spec y pipe (i used warpspeed)
fed spec intake manifold (courtesy of tavarish)
fed spec rear bank exhaust manifold (closest to radiator-courtesy of tavarish)
upper plenum intake gasket (nissan)
lower intake plenum intake gaskets (nissan)
exhaust gasket (nissan)
dual oxygen sensor simulator (ebay)
2 194 bulbs and sockets (autoparts store)
few zip ties
one small vaccum hose plug (auto parts store)
fed spec front o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1 (ebay)
butt connectors
shrink wrap (if you want it)
black wire loom (or the color of your choice)
TOOLS :
socket set
torque wrench
pliers
volt tester
Heres how you do it :
First change out your intake manifold
UNPLUG YOUR BATTERY
1) remove the upper intake manifold by removing the 4 bolts on the top
2) then there are two bolts on the rear of the manifold
2a) after that remove the egr tube bolts off the back of the manifold also carefully watching the gasket for the egr dosent fall out.
3) unplug the harness that goes across the top of the manifold so you can push the upper plenum out of your way unplug the iacv plugs the coil pack plugs ect....
3a) move the harness to the side
3b) remove your air box or cai if you have one
4) remove the small coolant hose on the throttle body temp no fluid will really leak out youll see why you need to unplug it when you get into this just temporarily.
5) you should be able to push the upper manifold out of your way just enough to start wrok on the injector rail.
6) unbolt the injector rail and ever so gently push it out of your way also
6a) unplug the vaccum hose to the swil valve actuator (the mushroom lookin thing on the lower intake.) unplug the injector harness.
7) unbolt the lower intake and remove it and make sure you take the old gaskets off they are a metal like material so they should come off fairly easy.
8) Take your vaccum hose plug and plug that vacum hose you just removed from the swirl valve.
9) take 5 and have a drink......NOW GET BACK TO WORK !
10) install your new lower gaskets and then your new fed lower intake
11) the fsm has the torque down pattern and lbs per inch of torque for all the bolts just pm me b4 you do it i have the fsm.
12) torque down the lower intake followed by the fuel rail and dont forget those two little grounds on the intake
13) plug the injector harness back in
14) reconnect the throttle body coolant hose and any other hoses you may have disonnecetd in the lower intake area.
15) lay back down your upper intake and bolt it up.
16) put your wire harness back together..
17) take another drink and some food.....ok your done get back to work
PART II
18) remove your cali y pipe and the o2 sensors (this may be harder than it sounds depending on rusted bolts.)
FYI get a few exhaust studs they are like 3 bucks at the auto store to have on hand
18a) you will keep the o2 sensors that are
1) in the manifold
2) the first one after the exhaust manifold between firewall and
engine.
DISCARD AND CUT
1) after the front precat
2) in rear precat (just unplug them in front of your valve cover first its
the one with the white and the one with red covering on the wires
trace those and cut at the sensor.
19) next remove the o2 sensor and unbolt the precat on the exhaust manifold
discard the precat (YEA !)
20) unbolt your exhaust manifold and remove (it drops down under the car dont try to pull it out the top) get the old gasket off.
21) put the new gasket on and bolt the new fed spec manifold in place.
22) get your fed spec y pipe (finally) and install it. remove the o2 sensor that was in the old cali manifold and replace it with your fed spec o2 sensor..see why you needed it now ? lol
23) well the hard parts done now lets fool the ecm into thinking the secondary sensor are still there......
24) take the cut o2 sensor wires and pull a bit of the heat covering off about 3-4 inches. dont take all of it or it will burn on the manifold. just pull it all off the wires and cut a bit off then slide it back on. there will be 2 white wires one black wire and one gray wire on each sensor...
25) take your 194 bulb harness and wire one into each sensor on the white wires (one side of the harness on one wire the other side on the other white wire) repeat for the other sensor except on this on your also going to inclue the RED wire 12+ of the o2 simulator. use you tester turn the key to on and test the wires for 12+ use the 12+ white wire on one side of the bulb harness and include the red o2 sim wire. now conect the other white wire to the other side of the bulb harness
im tired..... . . . . . . . .. . .. .. . ... .
ok
26) you have just replicated the sensor heaters
27) connect the gray from BOTH sensor to the black (ground on the o2 sim) gray is ground on the sensor harness.
28 ) connect the purple or dual signal out of your o2 sim to the black of the cars sensor harness one for each sensor. so purple on simulator to black on car and repeat for other sensor......phew...
tie wrap it all up in a neat place out of site (mines under the batt tray)
remember the bulbs may get hot so dont just flop them in the engine compartment on other wires.....
29 ) reset your engine codes and start your engine.....
enjoy your new fed spec car may your a$$ dyno approve also
no ecu codes as of yet.....
heres the run down on parts :
fed spec y pipe (i used warpspeed)
fed spec intake manifold (courtesy of tavarish)
fed spec rear bank exhaust manifold (closest to radiator-courtesy of tavarish)
upper plenum intake gasket (nissan)
lower intake plenum intake gaskets (nissan)
exhaust gasket (nissan)
dual oxygen sensor simulator (ebay)
2 194 bulbs and sockets (autoparts store)
few zip ties
one small vaccum hose plug (auto parts store)
fed spec front o2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1 (ebay)
butt connectors
shrink wrap (if you want it)
black wire loom (or the color of your choice)
TOOLS :
socket set
torque wrench
pliers
volt tester
Heres how you do it :
First change out your intake manifold
UNPLUG YOUR BATTERY
1) remove the upper intake manifold by removing the 4 bolts on the top
2) then there are two bolts on the rear of the manifold
2a) after that remove the egr tube bolts off the back of the manifold also carefully watching the gasket for the egr dosent fall out.
3) unplug the harness that goes across the top of the manifold so you can push the upper plenum out of your way unplug the iacv plugs the coil pack plugs ect....
3a) move the harness to the side
3b) remove your air box or cai if you have one
4) remove the small coolant hose on the throttle body temp no fluid will really leak out youll see why you need to unplug it when you get into this just temporarily.
5) you should be able to push the upper manifold out of your way just enough to start wrok on the injector rail.
6) unbolt the injector rail and ever so gently push it out of your way also
6a) unplug the vaccum hose to the swil valve actuator (the mushroom lookin thing on the lower intake.) unplug the injector harness.
7) unbolt the lower intake and remove it and make sure you take the old gaskets off they are a metal like material so they should come off fairly easy.
8) Take your vaccum hose plug and plug that vacum hose you just removed from the swirl valve.
9) take 5 and have a drink......NOW GET BACK TO WORK !
10) install your new lower gaskets and then your new fed lower intake
11) the fsm has the torque down pattern and lbs per inch of torque for all the bolts just pm me b4 you do it i have the fsm.
12) torque down the lower intake followed by the fuel rail and dont forget those two little grounds on the intake
13) plug the injector harness back in
14) reconnect the throttle body coolant hose and any other hoses you may have disonnecetd in the lower intake area.
15) lay back down your upper intake and bolt it up.
16) put your wire harness back together..
17) take another drink and some food.....ok your done get back to work
PART II
18) remove your cali y pipe and the o2 sensors (this may be harder than it sounds depending on rusted bolts.)
FYI get a few exhaust studs they are like 3 bucks at the auto store to have on hand
18a) you will keep the o2 sensors that are
1) in the manifold
2) the first one after the exhaust manifold between firewall and
engine.
DISCARD AND CUT
1) after the front precat
2) in rear precat (just unplug them in front of your valve cover first its
the one with the white and the one with red covering on the wires
trace those and cut at the sensor.
19) next remove the o2 sensor and unbolt the precat on the exhaust manifold
discard the precat (YEA !)
20) unbolt your exhaust manifold and remove (it drops down under the car dont try to pull it out the top) get the old gasket off.
21) put the new gasket on and bolt the new fed spec manifold in place.
22) get your fed spec y pipe (finally) and install it. remove the o2 sensor that was in the old cali manifold and replace it with your fed spec o2 sensor..see why you needed it now ? lol
23) well the hard parts done now lets fool the ecm into thinking the secondary sensor are still there......
24) take the cut o2 sensor wires and pull a bit of the heat covering off about 3-4 inches. dont take all of it or it will burn on the manifold. just pull it all off the wires and cut a bit off then slide it back on. there will be 2 white wires one black wire and one gray wire on each sensor...
25) take your 194 bulb harness and wire one into each sensor on the white wires (one side of the harness on one wire the other side on the other white wire) repeat for the other sensor except on this on your also going to inclue the RED wire 12+ of the o2 simulator. use you tester turn the key to on and test the wires for 12+ use the 12+ white wire on one side of the bulb harness and include the red o2 sim wire. now conect the other white wire to the other side of the bulb harness
im tired..... . . . . . . . .. . .. .. . ... .
ok
26) you have just replicated the sensor heaters
27) connect the gray from BOTH sensor to the black (ground on the o2 sim) gray is ground on the sensor harness.
28 ) connect the purple or dual signal out of your o2 sim to the black of the cars sensor harness one for each sensor. so purple on simulator to black on car and repeat for other sensor......phew...
tie wrap it all up in a neat place out of site (mines under the batt tray)
remember the bulbs may get hot so dont just flop them in the engine compartment on other wires.....
29 ) reset your engine codes and start your engine.....
enjoy your new fed spec car may your a$$ dyno approve also
no ecu codes as of yet.....
07-17-2006, 03:54 PM
#2
oh and by the way for those confused 99 cali owners
bank one sensor one (front) is the first one after the manifold between the firewall and engine.
bank two sensor one (front) is in the manifold itself between the radiator and engine
bank one sensor two (rear) is after the precat on the manifold between the radiator and engine
bank two sensor two (rear) is IN the second precat under the engine
bank one sensor one (front) is the first one after the manifold between the firewall and engine.
bank two sensor one (front) is in the manifold itself between the radiator and engine
bank one sensor two (rear) is after the precat on the manifold between the radiator and engine
bank two sensor two (rear) is IN the second precat under the engine
07-20-2006, 12:01 PM
#5
so what's the point? so your car is like fast as mine now or something?
nice write up but not many people will do it if they're not going get some hard facts of improvement for all this work other than your a$$ feeling better.
happy polluting
nice write up but not many people will do it if they're not going get some hard facts of improvement for all this work other than your a$$ feeling better.
happy polluting
07-20-2006, 04:53 PM
#7
the improvment is if you got screwed with a cali spec car and want to be normal like everyone else i was trying to show people its not as hard they think to get rid of all that uneeded extra junk. the fed spec maxes are well within the emissions limit you dont need cali spec all it does it kill power.
as far as polluting well.....if you take as meticulous care of your car as i do pollution is never a problem.
im sorry i dont have dyno facts there isnt one around here that i know of..if there is please enlighten me id love to go....
plus i did this conversion cause im boosting soon im sick of 190 horse its not enough and im aiming for 300....
as far as polluting well.....if you take as meticulous care of your car as i do pollution is never a problem.
im sorry i dont have dyno facts there isnt one around here that i know of..if there is please enlighten me id love to go....
plus i did this conversion cause im boosting soon im sick of 190 horse its not enough and im aiming for 300....
07-20-2006, 04:58 PM
#9
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
Wow.. that seems semi-useless.
have you seen a cali spec lower intake manifold for 1999 cars ?
how about the y pipe with those HEAVY precats that kill exhaust flow...
look bottom line is before i could barely pull from a stop light now even with my automatic thast comming out tommorrow for a 5spd i can lay two nice tracks down my street easily.....the freed up hp is worth it if your serious about your maxima and want all the power out of if but if your just about looks then dont worry about it.
see im all about power and a good challenge. i could have bought a trans am and popped a blower on but i LOVE my maximas im hooked...
i just gave the org some info thats all
:
07-20-2006, 05:30 PM
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Alta Loma, California
Posts: 101
Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
the fed spec maxes are well within the emissions limit you dont need cali spec all it does it kill power.
and seeing how it is that you're not from cali how do you know it is 'well within the emissions limit'?
07-21-2006, 03:04 PM
#14
Originally Posted by joel pixton
so you are saying that you noticed an increase in horsepower in this swap? what would you say is the biggest killer of power in the cali-spec?
and seeing how it is that you're not from cali how do you know it is 'well within the emissions limit'?
and seeing how it is that you're not from cali how do you know it is 'well within the emissions limit'?
as far as emmission go it will pass in NJ with flying colors im not from california so i dont need their emissions stuff.
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