drop restiter mod gurus please.
07-20-2006, 07:47 AM
#1
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drop restiter mod gurus please.
what would happen if you wire two or more drop restistor in a series? would it increase the pressure on the tranny with out the FULL line pressure that you get when you disconnect it??
07-20-2006, 07:58 AM
#2
According to Jime (who is the automatic master) Any other resistance besides the oem factory will create full line pressure. He checked many different ways and came to that conclusion. Good idea though.
07-20-2006, 10:37 AM
#3
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I was talking about the factory restistor just more than one. I was going to link 2 factory restistors in a series to increase restiatance. now if you unplug the restistor it creates an infinate resistance. I think the factory setting is like 12 ohms correct me if I'm wrong but wiring them in a series should give me 24 ohms (or double whatever the factory reistance is) and "IN THEORY" should increase the line pressure with out going to full line pressure. Right???????????????
07-20-2006, 11:03 AM
#4
In theory, it sounds good. According to Jime, however, any deviation from the stock resistance equals a fault, and therefore, max line pressure. I wish it would work also because i would like to firm up my shifts a little bit as well.
07-20-2006, 12:58 PM
#5
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=422883
Here's a link to a previous discussion. Note from response #14 on. If you have more questions, I would PM Jime and see what he says. If you find out anything let me know. I'm definately interested in something like this.
Here's a link to a previous discussion. Note from response #14 on. If you have more questions, I would PM Jime and see what he says. If you find out anything let me know. I'm definately interested in something like this.
07-20-2006, 02:00 PM
#6
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thanks mbandi
but jime was using a variable restistor not stock restistors wired into a series. there maybe something about the design of the stock restistor (I dont know what). in side of the factory restistor is a small heating element much like a stove eye or hair drier.
ok now for the testing I linked 2 restistors in a series and it DID NOT cause a fault (full pressure) and It seemed to shift slightly faster i.e. slightly harder(butt dyno and tach) and It DID NOT throw a code I only had 3 extras one of which was destroyed for the connector so I can not test any further at this point.
I have read about the drop restistor mod and I have tried it and the car did not shift like that but it did seem to be a little firmer. I believe that you could continue to link addition "factory" restistors until one of three things happens.
A.) began to shift much firmer increasing with each additional restistor to the point of desired effect. (49%)
B.) cause restistance high enough to cause a fault. (49%)
C.) unknown (very unlikely)(2%)the only other thing I can think of is for some reason the ohmns did not change in this config. and therefor did not change anything!!(i do not have my meters with me to check the ohms)
if any one has access to more factory restistors they could verify my findings.
but jime was using a variable restistor not stock restistors wired into a series. there maybe something about the design of the stock restistor (I dont know what). in side of the factory restistor is a small heating element much like a stove eye or hair drier.
ok now for the testing I linked 2 restistors in a series and it DID NOT cause a fault (full pressure) and It seemed to shift slightly faster i.e. slightly harder(butt dyno and tach) and It DID NOT throw a code I only had 3 extras one of which was destroyed for the connector so I can not test any further at this point.
I have read about the drop restistor mod and I have tried it and the car did not shift like that but it did seem to be a little firmer. I believe that you could continue to link addition "factory" restistors until one of three things happens.
A.) began to shift much firmer increasing with each additional restistor to the point of desired effect. (49%)
B.) cause restistance high enough to cause a fault. (49%)
C.) unknown (very unlikely)(2%)the only other thing I can think of is for some reason the ohmns did not change in this config. and therefor did not change anything!!(i do not have my meters with me to check the ohms)
if any one has access to more factory restistors they could verify my findings.
07-20-2006, 05:22 PM
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it seems to be shifting great so far like normal only quicker. I would like to get some more "restiters" (which is what you get from a bad speller with ADHD and 9 mountain dews in him) to try and increase the force applied. to see how far it will go before it faults. then I could tune the tranny for exactly the force I want to be applied
And I'm still not getting any codes!!
And I'm still not getting any codes!!
07-21-2006, 04:24 AM
#10
Keep us informed. It would be nice if you could hook up a line pressure gauge to a port on the transmission to confirm what you think is happening. If there is an actual increase in line pressure. Only because it's more accurate than your butt dyno.
07-21-2006, 05:37 AM
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I dont have one. I wish I did as this would make it alot easier and as you said more accurate. It still has not given me a code and it still has not faulted. you know what they say about butt dynos "they don't alway work because they all have a hugh crack in them"
07-21-2006, 06:20 AM
#12
Originally Posted by buttonhook
I dont have one. I wish I did as this would make it alot easier and as you said more accurate. It still has not given me a code and it still has not faulted. you know what they say about butt dynos "they don't alway work because they all have a hugh crack in them"
07-21-2006, 07:00 AM
#13
Originally Posted by mbandi
Keep us informed. It would be nice if you could hook up a line pressure gauge to a port on the transmission to confirm what you think is happening. If there is an actual increase in line pressure. Only because it's more accurate than your butt dyno.
Yes I have tried multiple stock resistors as well as numerous other fixed resistors. Never did find an adjustable one that could handle the current.
I seems to react just like a switch it will handle variation to a point and then it reacts just like its disconnected. That is by increasing the resistance and also reducing it.
WOT DR mod is the best setup for me because I don't care about part throttle shifts, they work just fine.
07-21-2006, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by mbandi
So True. Where are you getting the extra resistors?
07-21-2006, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Jime
I have a pressure gauge and temp gauge connected. With the DR unhooked the pressure goes from 175 to 225. All the other variations I have tried resulted it little or no change to make it worthwhile.
Yes I have tried multiple stock resistors as well as numerous other fixed resistors. Never did find an adjustable one that could handle the current.
I seems to react just like a switch it will handle variation to a point and then it reacts just like its disconnected. That is by increasing the resistance and also reducing it.
WOT DR mod is the best setup for me because I don't care about part throttle shifts, they work just fine.
Yes I have tried multiple stock resistors as well as numerous other fixed resistors. Never did find an adjustable one that could handle the current.
I seems to react just like a switch it will handle variation to a point and then it reacts just like its disconnected. That is by increasing the resistance and also reducing it.
WOT DR mod is the best setup for me because I don't care about part throttle shifts, they work just fine.
and a little off topic but do all I30's have the limited slip diff?? I found a tranny for $100 from an I30 and I want to know if it has it.
If increasing the number of resistors at all helps I still think it would be worth it given how cheap they are (3) for $5
07-21-2006, 11:46 AM
#17
Originally Posted by buttonhook
do you know what the numbers were?? at how many stock resistors did it fault?? and when you say worthwhile what do you mean how much did it change if any?? I really don't want to do a valve body change. but I would like to s/c at some point so firm shifting is going to be important.
and a little off topic but do all I30's have the limited slip diff?? I found a tranny for $100 from an I30 and I want to know if it has it.
If increasing the number of resistors at all helps I still think it would be worth it given how cheap they are (3) for $5
and a little off topic but do all I30's have the limited slip diff?? I found a tranny for $100 from an I30 and I want to know if it has it.
If increasing the number of resistors at all helps I still think it would be worth it given how cheap they are (3) for $5
Don't do a valve body change just do the DR mod at WOT. Can't get any simpler than that. Why try and build a better mousetrap when this one works. I wouldn't have a valve body because I don't want the part throttle any different that what it is and the line pressure of a valve body mod isn't as high as the drop resistor mod so I consider it pretty much worthless.
Not sure on the I30's, but all Cdn SE's have LSD. Best place to look is car-part.com, they list the locking (LSD) and non-locking (open diff). The LSD isn't really worth it, I have had 2 of each and there is no difference in 60' times unless you want it for something other than straight line performance.
07-21-2006, 11:52 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by Jime
Its been a long time so I can't really remember the numbers.
Don't do a valve body change just do the DR mod at WOT. Can't get any simpler than that. Why try and build a better mousetrap when this one works. I wouldn't have a valve body because I don't want the part throttle any different that what it is and the line pressure of a valve body mod isn't as high as the drop resistor mod so I consider it pretty much worthless.
Not sure on the I30's, but all Cdn SE's have LSD. Best place to look is car-part.com, they list the locking (LSD) and non-locking (open diff). The LSD isn't really worth it, I have had 2 of each and there is no difference in 60' times unless you want it for something other than straight line performance.
Don't do a valve body change just do the DR mod at WOT. Can't get any simpler than that. Why try and build a better mousetrap when this one works. I wouldn't have a valve body because I don't want the part throttle any different that what it is and the line pressure of a valve body mod isn't as high as the drop resistor mod so I consider it pretty much worthless.
Not sure on the I30's, but all Cdn SE's have LSD. Best place to look is car-part.com, they list the locking (LSD) and non-locking (open diff). The LSD isn't really worth it, I have had 2 of each and there is no difference in 60' times unless you want it for something other than straight line performance.
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