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Rear PS Bolt loosening tricks?

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Old 03-15-2019, 10:21 AM
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Rear PS Bolt loosening tricks?

Any good tricks or favorite wrenches for loosening the mount/pivot bolt on the rear of the PS pump? I work in the driveway on stands so I have a foot of clearance but it makes getting up there very tricky since I cant stand under it like on a lift. My Craftsman std combo 14mm's angle just isn't right for this job. I can't keep it on the bolt head and push hard enough to break it free. I don't want to use the open end (which has a better angle - I don't want to slip and mess up the head).

Hints? Wrenches you like? Maybe a fine tooth ratcheting 14mm with just the right angle?
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Old 03-15-2019, 10:41 AM
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Yep. That square head 14mm is a pain. One of these Craftsman Flex Head long bent handle 3/8 drives has gotten me into and out of more impossible places than I can begin to recount.

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Old 03-17-2019, 08:19 PM
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Does that work with this specific bolt/area? I'll gladly buy one if it will get in there and get me the leverage I need on this one.

Thx
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Old 03-17-2019, 08:37 PM
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Both bolts/nuts on my 99 are hex head. So I bought a LONG double ended flex head Tekton ratcheting wrench (6 point 12mm and 14mm) I extended it with a 3/4" copper pipe I ovaled to make it fit snug and did it from the top.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-1...7107/207112546
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Old 03-17-2019, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by KP11520
Both bolts/nuts on my 99 are hex head. So I bought a LONG double ended flex head Tekton ratcheting wrench (6 point 12mm and 14mm) I extended it with a 3/4" copper pipe I ovaled to make it fit snug and did it from the top.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-1...7107/207112546
The '98 I'm working on is hex too. I didn't realize you could get there at all from the top... and 6 point looks like a real feature to avoid slipping. I may go this route.

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Old 03-18-2019, 03:46 AM
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Originally Posted by KP11520
Both bolts/nuts on my 99 are hex head. So I bought a LONG double ended flex head Tekton ratcheting wrench (6 point 12mm and 14mm) I extended it with a 3/4" copper pipe I ovaled to make it fit snug and did it from the top.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-1...7107/207112546
This looks like the better choice. I should get one of these.
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Old 03-18-2019, 09:15 AM
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It's been a couple years but this helped with one of the bolts and if I remember correctly, I did the other from underneath with a standard ratchet. The reason I did this from above was because it was torqued on way too tight and there was no way to get the kind of leverage necessary from underneath. With the copper pipe extension and 6 point, it worked like a charm., The Tekton wrench only has to move 5 degrees to the next click (72point). Nice offering.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-19-2019, 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by KP11520
It's been a couple years but this helped with one of the bolts and if I remember correctly, I did the other from underneath with a standard ratchet. The reason I did this from above was because it was torqued on way too tight and there was no way to get the kind of leverage necessary from underneath. With the copper pipe extension and 6 point, it worked like a charm., The Tekton wrench only has to move 5 degrees to the next click (72point). Nice offering.

Hope this helps
Yeah, my problem exactly... way too tight and the exact angle of the bolt head is exactly wrong for my stock 14mm combo wrench.

I'm thinking of getting the Tekton and cutting it in the middle... that way it will be easy to fit a pipe and it will fit in other places where I need a special fit. At 13" long, I end up with a 12 & 14mm 6.5" flex head ratchet.
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Old 03-19-2019, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by BobMax
Yeah, my problem exactly... way too tight and the exact angle of the bolt head is exactly wrong for my stock 14mm combo wrench.

I'm thinking of getting the Tekton and cutting it in the middle... that way it will be easy to fit a pipe and it will fit in other places where I need a special fit. At 13" long, I end up with a 12 & 14mm 6.5" flex head ratchet.
Well, don't cut it until after you get this bolt loosened and then tightened, and you know your repair is solid. Get 18" of 3/4 copper plumbing pipe and makke an extension that slips over the 12mm end. You'll then have the torque and swing room from the top! Otherwise you won't have knuckles with skin.

I'll be doing mine tomorrow moist likely as I have to replace my alternator. It will be a cooker out there. Might hit 46 degrees. I love Winter on my back under a car!
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Old 03-19-2019, 12:24 PM
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When I replaced mine, I didn't loosen the bolt. I cut the belt and "walked" the new one on. There are a number of threads on ways to do that here.
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Old 03-19-2019, 02:18 PM
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i go in where the drive shaft exits the tranny. I use a long extension and a swivel socket. Piece of cake.
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by KP11520

I'll be doing mine tomorrow moist likely as I have to replace my alternator. It will be a cooker out there. Might hit 46 degrees. I love Winter on my back under a car!

KP: I am thinking of using one of these with a socket. Unfortunately I don't have access to the car regularly. Can yoyou take a peek and let me know if there's enough horizontal clearance for this? It would need 1mm for the head and about 25mm for the socket itself on top of that.
https://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-...het-67994.html

Originally Posted by DBear
When I replaced mine, I didn't loosen the bolt. I cut the belt and "walked" the new one on. There are a number of threads on ways to do that here.
I had the harmonic balancer off to replace it so I reinstalled the old one with a similar technique. It wasn't all that old and the belt tension was good so I was comfortable with that. I didin't want to put a fresh belt on that way though since I could not move the pump (and I was i a bit of a rush to complete the work).

Originally Posted by sdunker
i go in where the drive shaft exits the tranny. I use a long extension and a swivel socket. Piece of cake.
I am having issues visualizing this but I don't know this car that well. Maybe I have to get to the junkyard and look at a sample car.

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Old 03-20-2019, 12:03 PM
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BobMax, I'm assuming this wrench at HF has a Square Drive head at each end? Didn't know they made them. Lot cheaper than having a double ended flex wrench for each size!

The bolt in question is at 10 o'clock near the PS Pump pulley.

EDIT, I just went out and brought the wrench to investigate: HOWEVER, the HF wrench with a socket will change the angle of the wrench to a bad position as the PS reservoir tube becomes a fulcrum in the middle and pushes the handle into the engine front, because the socket offsets the other side. GET THE TEKTRON WRENCH! The good news is you won't need the 3/4" copper pipe if you are careful. It doesn't fit over the end even if ovaled. Bigger pipe needed for that. And the bolt is 12mm.

I WOULD still get the HF wrench for all the other times its design will help!

Hope this helps!

And our transmissions use no driveshaft! Two CV axle assemblies yes, but a drive shaft means rear end. This might be like finding a Sky Hook when first time camping with your friends. Did you ask the other people camping nearby yet? How else are we going to hold the tent up? LOL

And if it is legit, much more clarity needed to picture this in my mind!

Last edited by KP11520; 03-20-2019 at 12:38 PM. Reason: New info!
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Old 03-20-2019, 03:57 PM
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Good to know that it doesn't fit. I was afraid it would offset too far towards the rear.

Yours is 12mm? Mine is definitely a 14mm head.
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Old 03-20-2019, 08:38 PM
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My PS Pump was replaced by the Dealer with an aftermarket rebuilt years ago.

Originally Posted by BobMax
Good to know that it doesn't fit. I was afraid it would offset too far towards the rear.

Yours is 12mm? Mine is definitely a 14mm head.
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