Which lowering springs?
07-30-2006, 03:21 PM
#1
Which lowering springs?
I'm thinking about getting the Tein S. techs, are there any other springs that you would recommend, will I need to buy new shocks too? I'm thinking about a sway bar and front/rear struts, what do you all reccomend for a new guy with a limited budget?
07-30-2006, 06:28 PM
#6
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 127
Originally Posted by Dark99GLE
I'm thinking about getting the Tein S. techs, are there any other springs that you would recommend, will I need to buy new shocks too? I'm thinking about a sway bar and front/rear struts, what do you all reccomend for a new guy with a limited budget?
To do a suspension the "right" way, its going to run you at least $3000.
Figure about $300 on springs, $500+ on struts/shocks, and then of course you are going to end up wanting wheels/tires, because that stiffer suspension will be too much for those soft sidewalls on the OEM tires...
And those wheels and low profile tires will run you $2000 for good quality stuff that is strong with low unsprung weight. Don't forget about thost strut tower braces that will run you about $200+. Throw in another $300 for installation labor and alignment.
And after that, you will notice the ride quality isn't all that good anymore, and you will want/need subframe connectors which will run you $1000 for materials and labor.
And then you'll notice still that the interior panels resonates and rattles a lot over rough roads... so you'll need to go off to the local car stereo shop to get $1000+ dollars of damping materials added to the door panels, roof panels, floor, etc.
Where is the price tag now??? $5,000 and climbing... and we haven't gotten to the horsepower modifications -- and we haven't put in a good stereo system yet...
It is really expensive to modify a Maxima for the following reasons :
1. Maxima unibody isn't strong enough for stiffer aftermarket suspensions.
2. Interior build quality isn't tight enough for stiffer suspensions.
3. Interior road noise insulation isn't good enough for high performance tires.
4. OEM shocks are not good enough to handle lowering springs.
5. Maxima needs a lot more lowering than other cars to look acceptable. This takes away a lot more suspension travel and creates all sorts of bad side effects on ride quality and handling.
07-30-2006, 06:47 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Fulltone74
On a limited budget, I would recommend doing nothing to the car and finding another car that has more of what you want already included. In terms of cost, it is actually cheaper in the long-run to buy the "nicer" car up front.
To do a suspension the "right" way, its going to run you at least $3000.
Figure about $300 on springs, $500+ on struts/shocks, and then of course you are going to end up wanting wheels/tires, because that stiffer suspension will be too much for those soft sidewalls on the OEM tires...
And those wheels and low profile tires will run you $2000 for good quality stuff that is strong with low unsprung weight. Don't forget about thost strut tower braces that will run you about $200+. Throw in another $300 for installation labor and alignment.
And after that, you will notice the ride quality isn't all that good anymore, and you will want/need subframe connectors which will run you $1000 for materials and labor.
And then you'll notice still that the interior panels resonates and rattles a lot over rough roads... so you'll need to go off to the local car stereo shop to get $1000+ dollars of damping materials added to the door panels, roof panels, floor, etc.
Where is the price tag now??? $5,000 and climbing... and we haven't gotten to the horsepower modifications -- and we haven't put in a good stereo system yet...
It is really expensive to modify a Maxima for the following reasons :
1. Maxima unibody isn't strong enough for stiffer aftermarket suspensions.
2. Interior build quality isn't tight enough for stiffer suspensions.
3. Interior road noise insulation isn't good enough for high performance tires.
4. OEM shocks are not good enough to handle lowering springs.
5. Maxima needs a lot more lowering than other cars to look acceptable. This takes away a lot more suspension travel and creates all sorts of bad side effects on ride quality and handling.
To do a suspension the "right" way, its going to run you at least $3000.
Figure about $300 on springs, $500+ on struts/shocks, and then of course you are going to end up wanting wheels/tires, because that stiffer suspension will be too much for those soft sidewalls on the OEM tires...
And those wheels and low profile tires will run you $2000 for good quality stuff that is strong with low unsprung weight. Don't forget about thost strut tower braces that will run you about $200+. Throw in another $300 for installation labor and alignment.
And after that, you will notice the ride quality isn't all that good anymore, and you will want/need subframe connectors which will run you $1000 for materials and labor.
And then you'll notice still that the interior panels resonates and rattles a lot over rough roads... so you'll need to go off to the local car stereo shop to get $1000+ dollars of damping materials added to the door panels, roof panels, floor, etc.
Where is the price tag now??? $5,000 and climbing... and we haven't gotten to the horsepower modifications -- and we haven't put in a good stereo system yet...
It is really expensive to modify a Maxima for the following reasons :
1. Maxima unibody isn't strong enough for stiffer aftermarket suspensions.
2. Interior build quality isn't tight enough for stiffer suspensions.
3. Interior road noise insulation isn't good enough for high performance tires.
4. OEM shocks are not good enough to handle lowering springs.
5. Maxima needs a lot more lowering than other cars to look acceptable. This takes away a lot more suspension travel and creates all sorts of bad side effects on ride quality and handling.
i'm not even going to say anything...
EDIT: ok, i couldn't resist.
$3k? are you serious? yea, you could easily drop that much on ANY car. of course, the max is not on the same level as many cars as far as handling. however, by doing things right, you can get a pretty impressive ride out of it and still be able to get the groceries home in record time!
Spring/struts, wheels/tires, SFCs, and a FSTB can all be had for less than 2k. don't state your opinion or experience as FACT.
07-30-2006, 08:57 PM
#8
Originally Posted by Fre$h_TurK
a stupid question... what are struts ?... i mean isnt the AM shocks+ AM springs good enough for a smooth ride?
07-30-2006, 09:20 PM
#11
Fulltone74, that scenario is a bit extreme. It doesn't take remotely $5k for most people to lower their cars and be happy with them. The approach you're suggesting would really only be appropriate for someone who's looking to make their car feel newer or more European (depending on the specifics).
As for the original questions...
Your car has less than 4" of suspension travel in the front. S-Techs lower your car 2.2" in front. That leaves you with less than 1.8" of suspension travel, and for many people S-Techs aren't stiff enough to keep you from bottoming out. You decide.
Either way, you DEFINITELY need new struts with lowering springs. If you want to drop your car ~2", your only good options are Tokico Illuminas or Koni Yellows. Anything else will make the ride too harsh or bouncy, and probably blow out prematurely.
As for the original questions...
Your car has less than 4" of suspension travel in the front. S-Techs lower your car 2.2" in front. That leaves you with less than 1.8" of suspension travel, and for many people S-Techs aren't stiff enough to keep you from bottoming out. You decide.
Either way, you DEFINITELY need new struts with lowering springs. If you want to drop your car ~2", your only good options are Tokico Illuminas or Koni Yellows. Anything else will make the ride too harsh or bouncy, and probably blow out prematurely.
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