mastajonjon

iTrader: (2)

Hey all, I just replaced my rear brake pads and my car won't roll. Ok, I took off the caliper, took off the old pads, pushed in the caliper pistons all the way back, put the new pads on. Got inside car, cranked it, pushed brake pedal to build pressure, and then the car won't roll cuz the brakes won't release. Does this require bleeding the brakes? cuz I was informed that no bleeding was required when replacing just pads...any help would be appreciated.

GodFather

iTrader: (10)

when you pushed the piston all the way back in, did you just use a clamp pusher or did you attach that square piece of piston adaptor? This is important, because if you just pushed it in with a typical clamp pusher, then you brakes wouldn't retract correctly. Let me know what you've done.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

when u push in the caliper... make sure u take the cap off the brake reservour.. and watch for fluid over flowing... also if the caliper has a hard time going back in.. then it probably its probably bad...

GodFather

iTrader: (10)

for the rear brake caliper, you don't just push it in. You have to use that square piece adapter and turn it in while you're pushing, like a screw.

mastajonjon

iTrader: (2)

I used the square piece from autozone and turned it while pushing in...the only way to push it back...

L.I. I30t

First take the rear wheels off and turn the hub with your hands. If is does not spin freely (make sure that the emergency brake lever is down) then you may have a frozen caliper. Also did you use the right tool to push back the caliper? Did you line up the notches on the caliper so that slide onto that pads correctly? Make sure that the sliders are greased properly and go over your work. Good luck!!

mastajonjon

iTrader: (2)

everything was done properly...I used the correct tool to push piston back in, the brake reservior cap was taken off, all the shims and any part of the pads that would touch the caliper was greased, and I'm still having this problem...so i take it this problem has nothing to do with bleeding the brakes???

GodFather

iTrader: (10)

then there's 2 possiblilities:

something isn't right, causing your pistons to be statically stationed at the locking position. Could be due to some stuck fluid routes.

Another is that your pistons must be bad and got locked up. My brother had that before. He then bought caliper rebuild kit and it doesn't solve the problem till he replaced the whole caliper.

mastajonjon

iTrader: (2)

any suggestions on how 2 replace calipers?? where is the best place to purchase them? thanks for the input so far guys...

L.I. I30t

take the shims off then see what happens. also did you have a hard time moving the piston back into the caliper?

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

i get them from autozone.. they have a lifetime replacement warrantee... and i would go to midas or something to get the system bleed... cuz when u take the caliper off the fluid will run from that line until the resevour goes empty... so have some vice grips or something after u take the brake hose off...

mastajonjon

iTrader: (2)

yea, I had a hard time pushing them in...sweatin like a pig...so I assume they are shot. autozone says they're 150 plus tax for the pair after I bring back the old ones.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

yea looks like its time to spend some $$$$.. 150 seems about right for 2

L.I. I30t

Strange that two calipers went bad at the same time. Well it is not hard to do, just make sure that you bleed the brake system.

f550maranello2

iTrader: (2)

werd... both of mine were bad at the same time also.. its weird

FishyMan

Are you saying your REAR brakes won't ROLL BACK even w/ ebrake up/down ?

Did you attach your ebrake cable?

My problem was that it wouldnt' HOLD. Over time it developed the glazes and pulling up ebrake would hold the car from rolling. However, EVERYTIME i reverse, i hear the damn rear dronning.

MIXXMAX

iTrader: (1)

I would take the calipers off again and actually take a look at the piston. Check to see if the rubber boot did not twist and bind up inside. That's what happen to my passenger's side when I replaced my rear pads a couple of weeks ago...the caliper was real tight in pulling it off the rotor. After I got the caliper off, the boot was all twisted up. And, yeah, if you had trouble in turning the piston back in, then you know something is definitely wrong. Once you get the piston started, it shouldn't take that much effort in turning it back in. Just make sure you loosen the cap off the brake reservoir and you should be fine. Now, I have a 5th gener, but they are all the same anyways. It just seems odd that both of your wheels "froze" up at the same time. Good luck!

Frank Fontaine

Yep, on my 2nd rear brake job, the pistons went in and would not come back out, no matter how hard I pressed or repeatedly did the e brake. Essentially after getting those phat new pads installed, I had no rear brakes. Go figure.

Also, it was very difficult to to undo the caliper even with the pins out--that is a hint that things are not normal (piston not wanting to go in enough to separate the caliper from the torque member--I think it's definitely not floating when that is the case).

imho rear brakes seem to go bad by the time you get around to the 2nd changeover of the pads...

ManualMaxima

iTrader: (10)

you should hav called me earlier john.....i would of came and helpped.