Anyone have any suggestions to loosen a seized knock sensor bolt? I tried pb blaster and let it soak overnight but that didnt help. So far i broke one u-joint and a flex joint tryin to take this off. (thank you craftsman)

Help please?

-Justin

 

Wasn't aware the knock sensor had a bulb..

I used my jack handle as leverage on a 1/4 drive socket.. worked for me.

Did you take the IM off so you can properly torque it down It be easier.

 

1/2" drive
short socket
impact strength universal (dark colored not chrome)
breaker bar
16" or longer extensions

if you strip the bolt your gonna have to take the IM off.

 

haha whoopse, i guess my mind was wondering with bulbs.

But impact strength universal what? socket you mean?

 

Make sure you are applying torque in the proper direction. What I mean is, be sure that you are loosening the bolt, not tightening it... COUNTER-CLOCKWISE to loosen. (simple, I know--but I have heard of people like myself that couldn't get it loose, then realized they were tightening it...). The threads should not get stripped from an attempt to loosen...It would only be seized with either extreme heat or rust. Keep working at it. Maybe your best bet is to remove the IM.

 

a universal joint or whatever you wanna call it knuckle joint ?

there are 2 kinds....the regulr ones that are chrome in color ilke regular socket
and there are the gunpowder colored ones that are air impact gun rated they hold alot more pressure i havent seen one break yet by hand.

 

while on the topic of knock sensors, i found out today when i got my check engine light diagnosed that the knock sensor and the oxygen sensor were bad. Anyway, just wondering if you guys could give me an estimate as to how much it is going to cost me to get them fixed. Thanks in advance.

 

simple way to remember is Lefty-Loosey, Righty-Tighty

 

yeah i always say that in my head. i think my 7th grade shop teacher taught me that.

 

Yes, I know...but sometimes things get turned around, and I was confused for a bit.

Thanks for the reminder, though it's two months late!

 

Do some reading on the ORG before you run out and have your knock sensor replaced. The oxygen sensors may be bad, or both--but sometimes you will get a knock sensor code without it really going bad...like I did.

I have my used sensor if you want to buy one. I bought a new one unnecessarily.

 

i have yet to enounter any nuts or bolts on cars thats reverse threaded...what have you tried that is reversed?

 

My Honda had the windshield wiper bolt threads reversed. But I am not talking about bolts being reversed, I was talking about myself getting turned around. I was frazzled when I was working on the car that day, and I just wasn't thinking for a split second.

 

A u-joint didn't work for me, the combination of the ujoint and socket made the angle on the ujoint too sharp to get any torque on the bolt. I had to use a 12mm swivel socket. Try to find one with the shortest distance from the joint to the bottom of the socket.

 

Bingo. There it is. That is what I used, and it was a piece of cake.

Want to make it even easier yet? Use a magnetic pickup to reach in there.

 

Ill try that tomorrow,

You think sears will let me return all of this un-needed junk with a receipt?

What do i say LoL

-Justin

 

Absolutely they will, especially if it is "Craftsman".

 

So i dont buy a u-joint, what about the craftsman flex-joints? Thats the one i have that didnt work a 12mm Flex-joint from craftsman. So if its not that, then what else? I only saw those two that would pivit at sears.


EDIT:

well i just went to sears and returned my junk with no problems. But i was looking all over the place for a 12mm swivel socket, i assume its one of those gun-metal looking ones for the air tools. Is what u use a craftsman? or some other brand.

 

Hmm what other brand of tools are out there?

Nothing beats craftsman though

 

Oh, you know, just snap-on, mac and matco. Nothing big...

 

Ill have to say Snap-On in a heartbeat. If you got the money, get Snap-On.

If you want a great tool for the money, Craftsman.

-matt

 

Just read this post......I`m just about to jump in the deep end and change the knock sensor on my 95 Maxima 2.0 se ......So it is possible to change without removing the inlet manifolds?
Sorry to butt in the middle of this education tour!

 

Yes, most of us have done is without removal of manifold covers. Just get a good swivel and go at it!

 

make sure u get a low profile swivel, i had to goto two differnet sears to find the right one with the lowest profile. Dont get those u-joints get the flex joints one.

 

Well Job done......Up to now seams to have fixed the stalling problem and lack of power when hot! Then refusing to start.
Hand got cut up a bit...but better than removing I.M and completed in about 1 hour!
Local Nissan agents quoted around £386.00 ($736.00) to do job.....cost me $275.00 for parts and shipping from Courtesy Nissan of Texas.

 

I've been wondering how you tell if you have a bad knock sensor that needs to be replaced or if your knock sensor is telling the truth -- that you have some problem causing the engine to knock. I have a '96 with 111,000 mi that's beginning to run a little rough until it's warmed up. I do have two ECU codes 0908 (engine coolant temp sensor), and 0304 (knock sensor). I've reset the ECU a couple of times to clear the CEL but it keeps coming back now after only a few miles.

 

Change the sensors to clear the codes, it's not that hard to figure out.

Running rough = ECTS, loss of power = KS. Any questions?

 

i wasn't clear if the ECU is telling me that the knock sensor is bad or if the knock sensor is telling me that knocking is happening. Said a different way, is there a code for excessive knocking separate from the code for knock sensor?

 

The KS code does not indicate knock, it indicates a malfuncion with the sensor itself.

 

10 bucks you're turning the ratchet the wrong way.

 

Today my check engine light comes ON. " knock senor circuit open" Loose wire or a bad senor? TIA