Recently my car was jerking a lot when I was at a stop. Now when I drive and come to a stop, the car would just stall out like it feels like no fuel is going through. I checked all the coilpacks and its fine. I was just wondering what this problem would be. Would it be the fuel filter? Fuel pump? or injectors? I changed the fuel filter with the 300zx filter about year and half a ago. So I don't know if that would be the problem. Or it would it be my tranny about to go?

 

Do you have any ECU codes? The same happened to me when I got an Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor code. Problem disappeared after replacing the ECTS.

 

Nope, I have no codes at all.

 

Check for a vacuum leak on any of the little black hoses that run along your chosen air intake system.

 

its a 99.. i bet its coil packs

 

coil packs were replaced last year, I replaced them with new ones.

 

It would have codes stored for coil packs, which he said it doesnt.


Remove the air intake, and clean the hell out of the throttle body. Inside and out. I guarantee that's the problem. My 99 SE-L did the same exact thing, and cleaning the throttle body cured it instantly.

 

Wow, I just got that code + 0304 ( Knock Sensor) I guess you just accidently solved my problem, but I have to ask why the ECTS would stall the car?

 

It is one of the factors that determines how much fuel the engine needs. It is especially critical when the engine is not warmed up. The cooler the engine, the more additional fuel it requires.

 

Hi Maxima95,

How do you clean throttle body??? How it looks like??? I'm not mechanic type.

 

Clean the throttlebody, clean your IACV.

 

Check for vacuum leaks going to the IACV. I had the same problem when the IACV could not control/read the vacuum.

 

is your car an automatic?

 

too much rice in the intake, I had the same problem after driving through a honda meet..

 

i had the same problem and it was the mass air flow meter (MAF)....got one used here in the classifieds for thirty bux shipped.

 

Could be a lot of things, is the car auto or manual??

As everyone else stated, check for an intake leak, clean your IAVC, clean your throttle body. Could be a bad maf, the problem most likely has something to do with air intake....

 

Having the same stalling/almost stalling issue when I go to accelerate after stop light. If... if I can feed the gas very very slowly - I can avoid the stall - usually. NIssan said I needed knock sensor, and fuel filter (and tuneup) and MAF replaced if sensor replacement did help??? I installed fuel filter.

An then installed I install new knock sensor to see if that made a change. But when I went to clear the PCM (why is it called ECU) I don't get any flashing codes!!! What's up?

By the way - I wanted to buy new wire and connector for knock sensor. Nissan wanted to sell me entire wiring replacement for car only $1200.00 . Another dealer said they stop making wires and connector for sensor. That true?

 

Forgot to add. Whenever the stall happens - I can put the car in neutral (automatic trans.) - and I can reve the engine without any hint of stalling. But it back into drive and same problem.

Took the car into ACE Transmission (before I installed knock sensor). No trans error codes showed up. Then 30 minute road test - no stalling!!

 

also try raising your idle a little bit, see if it helps. My car used to stall out once in a while when it was idling at 650(where manuals are supposed to idle)....i turned it to 685 or so and it never stalled again.

 

I had a prob with stalling last year, and it was the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. I had a code for it but it was like the last thing I did cuz I didn't think that would cause stalling but it was. It is the one that only goes to the computer not the dashboard.

 

Here's What I do to "dodge the stall":

Note-This only Applies to Automatics, Since I only have an Auto, so this method only works with autos.

So, you're crusing happily in D when you crest a light hill or small rise and...huh? did my engine just fart....and , QUICKLY, before the engine has a chance to quit, I put the O/D off and , while it still misfires, it puts the car in a higher gear/RPM, so it'll still sound ugly, but at least it won't die on you....

The engine only seems to stall when I'm on a slight incline or dip. It stalls at the same exact spot in the road every time I commute to work, which is how I discovered the O/D off countermeasure....

 

My stalling is just at lights or any time I have to stop ( not on hills) - that is when I come to a full stop. Again it's intermittent.

About a week ago - it seemed like I got a trans "lockup". Engine would stall and die each time I tried to feed gas. Couldn't move!! Finally put my foot on break and fed a bunch of gas - car finally moved.

I had the trans solenoids replaced a year ago and I thought maybe a trans problem - but ACE says no. ACE didn't do the solenoid replacement.

To me it seems like a problem going into first gear (in the automatic trans) ---help!

 

Best Way to dodge this : Left-foot brake and lightly advance the gas so that at a stop, youre idling at , say, 1000 RPM instead of the regular idle of 500 RPM. THis should cure the misfiring/quitting , and leave her on O/D off until you get this fixed.I drive a "state highway" that's more like an Interstate with stoplights, and its pretty embarassing to be on a 70 MPH highway( semis and all) trying to restart your KS-Busted, fuel-starved ride. Its pretty embarassing, hence the left-foot braking and Throttle-conrol....

I didn't think the ECTS was as importaint as this, but wow....learn something new everyday lol.....