The noisemaker is part of the pad; it will be changed with the pad. The real risk is rubbing off all the friction compound and not being able to stop.

Dave

 

1999 Nissan Maxima SE 115000 miles

Last week:

codes thrown:
P0400
P0325
And 1 for a bad rear o2 sensor

Along with the CEL, I also have an idle problem. Car runs fine when first turned on. Drive a couple of minutes on the street and when at a complete stop, in drive, I get a stumble or pop/hop in the car. This only happens when it is in gear, but at a complete stop. Idle remains constant, 600-650rpm. Also, after running on the highway for any period of time, the car will idle really high, in gear around 1300rpm, and in park/neutral from 2000-2500rpm (again, this is only at a complete stop, red light/stop sign). If you turn the car off and wait a minute or 2, turn it back on and everything works just fine...but the process begins again, drive it on the city streets, I get a stumble, highway I get a high idle.

Yesterday:

Well I decided to change the EGR valve because I was getting P0400
Changed the rear o2 sensor because of the code
and changed the IACV, wishing and hoping that this would fix my high idle after highway speeds.
Cleaned MAF, TB, and TPS.

Well after about 5 minutes of driving, I got the stumble again...
then got on the highway, and drove, once I got off, high idle...
about 30 minutes later, the dreaded CEL came on
I got P0400 and P0325 x2

The car never feels like it is going to stall out, or gets rough...simply the stumble sometimes, and the rest (it is always doing 1 of the 2) of the time its idle is really high. It almosts feels as if the car just wants to take off. If you let off the brake just a tad it jumps forward like if you had your foot on the throttle.

Any and all help with this is greatly appriciated.
Thanks guys
Leo

edit/update:
after some much needed reading, I have gotten a ton of help/information off this site on the 2 codes (egr and KS) problems.
I have also learned there is not a shortage of 99 maxima owners who have/are experiencing idle problems, but I have not found a reason/culprit for my problems with a high idle and a stumble.
Thanks in advance.

 

Oh no! I've been unnecessarily cautious with how I treat my brakes?!
Thanks for enlightening me. I'll have to punch the bloke who told me about brakepad damage.

With that being said, I'm still curious about the pricing and registration tax on this Maxima

I also have one more question. Is it especially difficult to change the stock SE standard gearshift ****? I've never had the pleasure of doing it, myself. I haven't actually found a photo that's had the stock shift **** on there...at least I don't recall seeing one, since I've never seen a photo of the stock gearshift **** to begin with. All I've ever known is automatics!

 

Will a 2000 CA- spec cattman y pipe fit a 98?

here's the link

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cattm...QQcmdZViewItem

please help me out on this as quickly as possible!!
Thanks guys!

 

Also, would this intake fit my 98?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...QQcmdZViewItem

What do u guys think?

the reason why i like the injen is because i dont want to drill a hole into the fender.

 

come on...
no one has any ideas on what can cause my idle to be 1300 in drive, 2000-2500 in park/neutral?? As stated, this only happens after coming to a complete stop getting after traveling at highway speeds.

 

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a ypipe from lss exhaust (formerly budget exhaust) with plans to install it myself.. until my engine blew. Although I work at an auto shop, I was unable to swap the motor there and at home I have no garage or extensive tools . Forced to pay someone to do it for me. Since the pipe had to be removed anyways I told the guy to pop the new one in for me. The car is still there but is completed, he says that pipe doesnt fit but didnt really explain why.

My question is this: if i remember correctly there was only one pipe made by them for 95-99 maximas... So is it just really tough to get that sucker in? ive heard you really have to wrestle with these to line them up and maybe the guy never put an aftermarket one in. Any info on this would be appreciated. thanks

 

It's just threaded on, but it's loc-tited too. I needed a pipe wrench to get mine off, and even though I attempted to use a rag to avoid damaging it the leather cover tore right off and was destroyed.

Dave

 

I'm surprised this thread is only 13 pages.

 

im suprised I cant get 1 guy to help me after 9 hours

 

Give it a day or two, buddy. There's no guarantee anyone will read this thread within the next ten hours or even longer than that, but when you do get a response it's well worth the wait. And even if you don't get a response, it's not like you're worse off than when you started, right? I'm not answering your questions because I don't have a clue what to tell you. Sorry

 

This is my first post.
Wonder if this is a known problem (my car is a 95 SE):

When I use the key fob remote to open the doors, they often relock themselves about a second later. It happens right after the second button push to open all four doors. I don't think it happens after I do a single push to open the driver's door. Also, I think it has happened when a door is slammed closed after all four have been unlocked.

Anyone dealt with this before?
Thanks.

 

Do you have 2 key remotes? Do you get the same result with both? if so at least you can narrow it down a little. Also, I have noticed that if all the doors are unlocked and i manually lock the driver door using the latch, all the doors lock. Sort of sounds like the same thing, maybe there is a sensor in the door latch that corresponds to the remote?

 

not sure if you have checked this yet but.

check idle screw
clean TB (a classic move)
clean IACV
test IACV to make sure its not malfunctioning
check throttle cables.

 

I have two remotes. The problem is the same when using either one.

I think that what you observed is correct behavior: if you close the manual latch on the driver's door, all doors lock.

Picture this: When I'm approaching the car, I hit the open button on the remote once and the driver's door unlocks as it should. When I hit the button a second time, the OTHER three doors unlock and then almost immediately ALL doors relock. It's a pain!

 

the idle screw on the IACV? if so, yes, when we installed the new one we hooked her up to a scanner and set the idle.

I did clean the TB

I replaced the IACV with a NIB OEM IACV

I didnt check the new one, i guess I figured nissan did, but I guess I can do that too

everything with the throttle seems fine...starting to think it might be injectors or coils...
Im probably going to replace the EGR tube, the other metal pipe (not sure what its called) that leads to the EGR valve, and the EGR solenoid. That should at least clear my CEL and see if it helps any with the idle.
Also thinking, the intake manifold gaskets are new, plugs are new, wonder if one is not gapped correctly, or I have a leak in 1 of the gaskets...

 

Honestly, if I knew the answer I would post it.

But it's a two way street. Judging by how much diagnostic info you put in, you should have no trouble formulating a decent search that should give you plenty of good leads. It takes a lot less than 9 hours too.

Dave

 

Did you tighten the manifold to spec? Might be a leak. What CEL are you pulling?

 

Is it more difficult to find a 4th gen maxima with standard transmission than a 4th gen with automatic?

 

thanks for the help Dave, but as a newb, I CANT use the search feature.
I really wish I could, cause I would be more than happy to use it...


As for the manifold, I did not use a torque wrench, but I did what I was always taught...tighten each one, then tighten an extra 1/4 turn

as for the codes. I guess they are pretty common with these cars. They are
P0400 - EGR malfunction
P0325 - Knock Sensor Circuit 1 malfunction

thanks in advance

 

Yes......maybe 1/4 for a general idea.

 

Great. Makes me feel like I'm getting a really good deal. I took Dave's advice and convinced the sneaky jerk to pay for the 8% PST, meaning my 99 SE, standard, with all the trimmings, is going to cost me an even $8100 Canadian, where it would probably cost me between 11 and 14 grand from a dealership! Can you say, "extra cash for mods"?

 

can i get some help here guys?

 

I would say NO assuming your 98 is not a CA spec model.

CA spec Y pipes are completely different from ones found in other states.

 

I kinda like the Injen model too. However, as has been proven over and over again, the best overall intake is the stock one.

It's just not worth the minimal hp gains and loss of low end torque to do an aftermarket intake.

 

Looking to buy this 98 Maxima but seller cant tell me.Is there any way to tell,No markings on car!
Please help.
Thaks

 

Thats not true actually. A true cold air intake does give increase in power. Plus if you have any engine upgrades it all changes. Dyno done from someone (cant remember who, from all motor forum) Dyno'd with the best results from a JWT. But thats certain cars and all. Going with a true CAI will be good but nothing from Injen. PR or make your own.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=15

Read that.

Also, they each have 190 HP, stock everything.

 

Thanks very mutch

 

i checked my brake pads and there is a good amount left so i'ma just take it to the brake shop today and see whats going on.. ALSO IS ANYONE SELLING A GREDDY EXHAUST FOR 1997 LET ME KNOW PM ME OR SUMTIN NEED ONE THOSE IN MY LIFE

 

also lookin for crystal clear corners and headlights, also crysatl clear turn signals????? anyone got some of those for sale?????

 

i get a whostling noise at certain speed while driving, it does not depend on braking /not braking at the time but seems to go away below 40 km/h and above 60-70 km/h, my mech told me that its the breakxs having some kinda contact with soemthing else i dotn remember, he also said that these breaks on maximas have no spacing, not sure what that means, but he said its ok its normal and should go away after more use of break pads, i have brand new ones apparantly, i bought the car used i had noo idea,,, my question is, has anyone encountered this ?

 

ok i think i have a GXE but not sure, i love the fact that maxima options were available throught the gle gxe and se, this is what my car is : can some one tell me what i have ?

Black gauges
ABS
Sunroof
NO bose (used to have cassette and CD, but i installed an aftermarket deck)
factory alarm (although i had an aftermarket alarm installed)
heated seats
no fog lights
no spoiler
205/65 R15 tires
honeycomb hubcaps
cruise control
no climate control
regular AC
power mirrors, driver seat ONLY, all windows

i think thats it, great maxima i LOVE IT so much

 

oh yeah and NO leather, i got cloth

 

Well you could donate a few bucks and get the search function,
or you could use google's advanced search page to filter results from maxima.org.

Dave

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...3&postcount=15

Read the top bit.

 

dumb question but what is cefiro? please dont flame im new to the nissan scene, ive only ever had hondas

 

wow...and this whole time I thought this was a website for maxima owners and enthusiasts to share and gather information about their vehicles. Wasn't aware it was a pay for information site?

I have been around cars for the better part of my life, I am a member of a couple of different car clubs, a supporting member of 2 different car forums, and not once have I ever had a member come straight out and ask for money from a newB. I always figured the best way to keep a site like this up and running, and collect donations from its members was to help out people, give information, make them feel as if they just recieved a service...usually people respond pretty well to that, and wouldn't mind seperating themselves from money most of them had to work very hard to earn.
Im not really sure who you are, if you are a moderator, a founding member of this website, or just another average joe that, like most of us, has an interest in cars, but making comments like that only helps hurt the reputation of sites like this and I would not be suprised in the slightest that comments like that would be frowned upon by many members.

But if that is how this website feels, money is first, helping owners and enthusiasts is second, then I will more than gladly find my information elsewhere.

 

To answer your question, and hopefully change your view about the Org.
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...00&postcount=1

The whole reason this thread was created was to let newbies who arent able to start threads, or dont have access to the search feature is to ask there question here.

 

I have a very annoying, intermittent problem with my start circuit. I'm a newbie, so I apologize if I don't use the right terminology. What happens is, everything is fine, and then once in awhile, at random, I get in, turn the key, and nothing happens. The starter does not even begin to engage. This first happened back in April, and I had a feeling there was something wrong in the ignition or ECU circuit. I tried swapping relays under the hood and under the dash, thinking that it was the ECC relay (can't remember exactly what it is called on a '96) but that didn't help. Finally I gave up and took it to a shop and they replaced the starter.

I couldn't believe this was the problem, but I didn't have anymore trouble - for awhile.

Then about a month ago, it started happening again, so I took the car back to where the starter was done. They said that my ignition switch was bad, and showed me where unless you turn the key ALL the way (until it wont move anymore) they could see where it maybe wouldn't start sometimes. So I was pretty comfortable with this explanation, until tonight, when I take the car for a short ride to the grocery store, I come out, and it is doing it again. I turn the key ALL the way and - nothing. No click from the starter at all. Now I know what you think - bad battery, or positive terminal connection. That's not it. When I turn the key, all the interior lights, everything stays working after I let go of the key. Not like a dead battery, where you turn the key and everything goes out and stays out.

So now it looks like the original start problem is back and it can't be the starter this time. I tried to do a search on this problem and nothing jumped out at me. Has anyone seen this before?

John
evansREMOVETHIS62@hotmail.com