If you already have the red/clears for 97-99 then all you need is the harness for them as well.

 

where can I get this harness?

 

does any1 have a pic of the 5spd transmission fluid filler and drain bolt? any help would be great thanx.

 

Filler is the big plug on the front of the tranny just below the battery. You use a 1/2" drive wrench to turn it.

The drain is harder to reach - it's on the rear end of the tranny, about 5" forward of the black accordian rubber boot, facing the middle. You'll need a ratcheting box wrench or open ended 12mm wrench to open it.

Some people use the round balck plastic gear position sensor to drain the oil. It works, but the sensor often breaks. If you apply the slightest prying force it will crack. I don't recommend using that unless you damage the normal drain plug.

 

i have a 95 maxima its automatic i want to do the vq35 swap.i was wodering if i could drop a 6 speed trans in there

 

Hi guys. I read on one of the forums about a US Intake Manifold and that it will increase low end power. I don't really know what the USIM is and I cant seem to find it anywhere to see a price. If anyone has any info that would be great. Also, if anyone has any other tips to get the car to accelerate faster on the low end I would greatly appreciate it. I'm not looking to race on a track or at high speeds but just to cruise around the streets faster.

 

USIM is your stock manifold....the only other manifolds are a MEVI, which isnt for low end and an 00vi swap. If you don't know what the USIM is you should probably not attempt either swap yet. Research them in the All Motor forum.

 

Hey, I am looking at putting on a ram air intake on my 97, looked at some on ebay and they are dirt cheap, like 1/4 the price of an ingen, are these legit kits or should i spend the money for a brand name one, i plan on buying a decent filter after the winter, heres a link to the one i was looking at.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...5916680&rd=1,1

 

HAI lose low end and gain some high end. Get a real CAI.

 

my hazard lights dont work for some reason and when i push down the button theres nothing and i cant use my turn signals when is down i checked the fuse under the steering its fine can it be something else ???

 

Yes. But if you have to ask, you might not be mechanically up to the task.

Next time, try a basic search.

 

I just got a 95 maxima the other day. It drives good but it squeaks when driving, especially on a bumpy road. I was told from the person who I got it from that it needs new front struts. So my question is if the struts are bad would it cause this squeaking now or something different? Also I want to replace the keyless entry remote since the guy didnt give it to me. how can I do about doing that? Thanks in advance

 

You can get a keyless remote on ebay for around 20 bucks. Make sure you don't get the 5th or 6th gen versions they won't work. There is a tutorial on this site on how to program it.

 

Also, I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to remove the heated seat switch. I want to replace the light in the drivers side switch, it is out. Is this possible, or do I need to replace the switch itself? I am guessing the switch will just pop out with a flathead, but I want to see anyone has done anything like this first.

 

Something different. Bad struts cause the car to bounce like crazy over bumps. It's also the last thing I'd suspect causing the squeak.

Squeaks in the front suspension commonly come from the insulating material that is wrapped around the ends of the coil springs. If you buy some plastic spiral wiring wrap from radio shack for $5, you can replace this insulating material.

Another squeak spot that's kind of hard to find is the front swaybar bushings. Mine liked to rub thru the bushing and cause invisible metal-on-metal contact.

Dave

 

is there a write up on how to change rear brake pads? are the calipers screw type or piston type?

 

they are pistons that must be screwed in.

 

i tried that today but the boot looked like it was gonna rip. it kept turning with the piston so i stopped, fixed the boot and put it back together. i'd like to know how to do it properly so any info. would help. thanx

 

Your doing it fine. The boot will move. I only had one boot stick like that on me. Just play with it. Should only have to turn the boot a little after you turn a few times.

 

Long story short, I over torqued the bolts on the front valve cover. Got the broken bolts out and didn't need to tap the holes out.

What can be used as replacement bolts. Dealership gave me the part number of - 13224-31u00, 6.50 each

Courtesy parts lists 2 other part numbers
13224-f6505 .86
13224-53f01 1.50

Bolt Depot has some for .32 each, but are not exactly like the Nissan parts.

Any one had to use another bolt in this situation?

 

WHAT YEAR MAXIMA IS YOURS

 

1995 GXE VQ Eng.

 

The Part# Is 13224-31u00 I HAVE KNOW IDEA WHAT THE OTHER ONES ARE

 

Does 97 Maxima have a cabin air filter? Everytime I pushed down the button to close all vent (I don't know what's to call that button), I can smell damp and bad air (like wet leaves gone bad) in the cabin. Is there a filter somewhere I can replace to get rid of the smell? Thanks,

 

NO CABIN FILTERS IN 95-98 MAY BE IN 99 BUT I DONT THINK SO

 

No, but their is information in the sticky threads about how to fix this problem...

 

Spray or wipe the piston with fast-drying rubber conditioner. I had the same problem with my rear brakes on my 97 and my 00. In both cases, I rolled the dice (did not treat them) and it worked out fine.

 

I am considering buying a Cold Air Intake System online, but I dont really wanna spend 270 or w/e the Place Racing Intake is, I wanted to know you guys opinion on these I found.

http://www.procarparts.com/store-det...=onlinestoreDB $45.00

http://www.procarparts.com/store-det...=onlinestoreDB $74.99

I've been looking at these forums for weeks now and decided to finally join, just been so interested in reading other peoples stories lately, and I wanted to contribute to the community, so I finally joined

 

Welcome to the club.

OT those intakes are a true style CAI but you will need to cut into the fender wall on the driver side to make it work. You can find one on EBAY as well. You are only looking at maybe 5 HP and more sound above 3000 RPM.

 

aww man, thanks I thought those were the Normal Intakes that i did'nt have to cut a hole in it, I thought the Injen and Place Racing Intake were the only ones you had to cut a whole in the Fender for, Those to me didn't look as long as the Injen or PR Intake.

If you dont mind could you point out some CAI that dont involve drilling a hole in my beautifull Maxima

 

Hi, Thanks for tolerating my noobieness. When my maxima shifts into 4th(auto trans) the car wants to pull to the right just for a second.It's almost like the trans gives the left wheel more power. I can't get it to do it every time. I've checked the fluid level(and changed it 6 mo. ago), tire pressure, and also the P/S fluid and function.
Thanks for your time,
fasternat

 

Since There Is No More 7000bct, What Lcd Are People Using????

 

None. Every true CAI needs cold air. You don't have it in the engine bay so you need to drill. Simple as that.

 

Hey guys im new here, Ive got five questions (1995 maxima gle auto):

1. Would a leaky intake manifold gasket cause the car to stall as soon as it starts? When I turn the key the car fires up then instantly dies unless I feather the throttle for a few seconds then it idles fine. Usually only happens when the engine is cold. I also get a gasoline smell from time to through the vents. It looks like the manifold may be leaking in the front.

2. I replaced the a/c pulley tensioner and replaced the belt. The new belt won't stop squealing. How tight is it supposed to be? The last belt squealed and burned up until it stopped grabbing and the alternator stopped spinning (car died at a stop light).

3. When I close the front passenger door sometimes all of the doors automatically lock. Is this supposed to happen?

4. Sometimes when I turn the key to start the car nothing happens. Ill turn it again and it starts fine (some times it takes a of couple turns). What could cause that?

5. The odometer just stopped working one day three years ago. It works every now and then, clocking a few miles here and there. If I watch the trip odometer it seems to hang up when the 1/10 mile reaches 9 (when it decides to work). The odometer only works when the trip odometer works. How can I fix the odometer so it works properly?

thanks

 

1. You'll have a bad idle and possibly stall out with a leaking manifold but it's most likely the cold. If you look in the 4th gen area there is a starting problem thread.
2. The pulley needs to be tightened to spec or it will squeal like a mad pig and possibly could snap. Trying to look in the FSM but can't seem to find the correct spec now. Someone should know tho.
3. Not sure about the doors. Heard of it happeneing but don't know why. Possibly wiring?
4. Wiring could be messed up between key and starter. Is the starter good? How old?
5. IDK about the odometer, again I've heard of it but I always read that it was shot.

 

K Thanks so much for your help, did you think those two I posted seemed like an ok deal?, if so should i get the K&N one?

If possible Im also considering coughing up the money this one since it has a heat shield but I dont know how good it would work, or if it would really make a difference.

Im not sure if the sheild/black plastic is included
http://www.procarparts.com/store-det...=onlinestoreDB

WTB: 6 Cold Packs/Ignition Coils 3 front/3 rear needed, They have to be in good condition, I dont play on replacing these again...
If you are interested in Selling Please PM me or Email me through my Profile

 

Hi, I went thru that prob(no or delayed start when turning key) w/my '95. It is one of 2 things: the neutral safety switch contacts(inside the switch)are going bad/dirty or the actual switch behind the ignition lock(where you put the key) is bad. Mine was the neutral safety switch and I took it apart,cleaned the contacts and it was fixed.You can unplug the n.s.s. and put a jumper in the connector to bypass the switch. That will tell you if the switch is bad. BTW the Haynes manual I have says you have to take out more stuff to get the ig switch out than is really needed .e me for details if you get that far.

 

Are you doing a HAI? If I recommend not spending money really. Get a good filter and take off the top of the airbox and connect it to the maf. It's much cheaper since all you're getting is name brand on HAI. If you're going with CAI just the ebay one is fine with a better filter. I don't know what links you posted so send me a pm or something if you need help deciding.

 

I need help in deciding between, these two. If im not mistaken these two are CAI that involve cutting... a whole in my fender, which idk about yet but, i've seen some on Ebay but i dont trust ebay..
I just want the cheapest option for some more power.. I already love the power the car has, I think its plenty but having some more would be nice.:P im a little greedy..

http://www.procarparts.com/store-det...=onlinestoreDB $45.00
http://www.procarparts.com/store-det...=onlinestoreDB $74.99

I do need to solve the problems with my missfiring/ignition coils crap..
it's pissing me off latley but, im always thinking about putting a CAI on my maxima so, I wanna do it!.

Is this considered a HAI?
http://www.procarparts.com/store-det...=onlinestoreDB

 

lol, mine does that too , surprised me the first time, but its prolly just an electrical problem