NOOBIES: The "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread...
#121
CEL light came on during the weekend, so I went to my mechanic today for diagnosis (before reading that thread about self-diagnosis, of course). He pulled 3 codes off the car:
(1) 0103 Engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit
(2) 0304 Knock sensor 1 circuit bank 1
(3) 1005 MFR controlled aux emissions controls (exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) solenoid)
They suspect that the EGR solenoid is causing the stalling, but they will hook the car up to the real-time monitoring system tomorrow morning (so engine is cold upon start).
According to my own research, if EGR solenoid fails in open position or fails to close all the way, it results in rough idle, hesitation, and possible stalling (which were my symptoms). If it fails in closed position, detonation results, which may have set off the knock sensor alarm as well. I'm assuming the solenoid is sticky and takes longer to open / close than it should.
Any thoughts on this? I'm especially concerned about the #1 and #2 error codes, how likely is it that they're related to #3? My thoughts right now is that #1 is probably unrelated, but #2 is (even though the CEL came on right after one of those stalls and restarts).
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(1) 0103 Engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit
(2) 0304 Knock sensor 1 circuit bank 1
(3) 1005 MFR controlled aux emissions controls (exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) solenoid)
They suspect that the EGR solenoid is causing the stalling, but they will hook the car up to the real-time monitoring system tomorrow morning (so engine is cold upon start).
According to my own research, if EGR solenoid fails in open position or fails to close all the way, it results in rough idle, hesitation, and possible stalling (which were my symptoms). If it fails in closed position, detonation results, which may have set off the knock sensor alarm as well. I'm assuming the solenoid is sticky and takes longer to open / close than it should.
Any thoughts on this? I'm especially concerned about the #1 and #2 error codes, how likely is it that they're related to #3? My thoughts right now is that #1 is probably unrelated, but #2 is (even though the CEL came on right after one of those stalls and restarts).
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Originally Posted by D-3vil
Hi,
I've just purchased a '96 Maxima SE (stick, fully loaded) about 2 months ago. The car has 250,000km on it, but was extremely well maintained and is in excellent condition, save this one problem below.
Engine will stall about 2 out of 5 times after being started when cold (engine is cold, not outside temp). The behaviour before dying is what's baffling me.
Here's the scenario of events:
The car will start fine on the first crank. A few minutes into it, the engine will just die. This has happens regardless of whether I start driving the car or I just let it idle.
I can prevent the engine from shutting down by pumping the gas, but it almost feels like there isn't enough fuel getting to the engine. If the engine does indeed die, upon attempting a restart, engine will crank many times before starting, sometimes after several attempts.
Once it starts, though, all behaviour is back to normal.
So far, I was thinking one of the following things may be wrong with it. Some of these may sound idiotic (since my auto mechanics background is shaky at best):
(1) fuel pump ... but why would it act up only after a cold start
(2) idle sensor ... don't really know anything about it
(3) (possibly idiotic) somehow a void of air is being introduced on the fuel line and engine dies when void reaches spark plugs ... don't know what may cause this.
Before going to the mechanic with this, can anyone shed some light into this "mystery"? The car is bone stock, with no mods.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
I've just purchased a '96 Maxima SE (stick, fully loaded) about 2 months ago. The car has 250,000km on it, but was extremely well maintained and is in excellent condition, save this one problem below.
Engine will stall about 2 out of 5 times after being started when cold (engine is cold, not outside temp). The behaviour before dying is what's baffling me.
Here's the scenario of events:
The car will start fine on the first crank. A few minutes into it, the engine will just die. This has happens regardless of whether I start driving the car or I just let it idle.
I can prevent the engine from shutting down by pumping the gas, but it almost feels like there isn't enough fuel getting to the engine. If the engine does indeed die, upon attempting a restart, engine will crank many times before starting, sometimes after several attempts.
Once it starts, though, all behaviour is back to normal.
So far, I was thinking one of the following things may be wrong with it. Some of these may sound idiotic (since my auto mechanics background is shaky at best):
(1) fuel pump ... but why would it act up only after a cold start
(2) idle sensor ... don't really know anything about it
(3) (possibly idiotic) somehow a void of air is being introduced on the fuel line and engine dies when void reaches spark plugs ... don't know what may cause this.
Before going to the mechanic with this, can anyone shed some light into this "mystery"? The car is bone stock, with no mods.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
#122
Ignore #2. Always eliminate other codes before paying any attention to the knock sensor code - it appears with many other codes.
Replace the ECTS - it's a 10min job and it's cheap. It's also known for causing hard starting.
Get the EGR repaired, reset the ECU, and see if the knock code comes back after a few weeks. Only then is it worth troubleshooting.
Dave
Replace the ECTS - it's a 10min job and it's cheap. It's also known for causing hard starting.
Get the EGR repaired, reset the ECU, and see if the knock code comes back after a few weeks. Only then is it worth troubleshooting.
Dave
#123
I bought an aftermarket FPR. It has 3 ports and a pressure gauge. Can anyone tell me if this is going to work? And if so, how exactly do I get it to work? I know where the OE regulator is and how to disconnect it, but I want to make sure I don't mess anything up. Thanks.
#124
#126
Originally Posted by Peter66
Question about Tein S-techs. If I install these on stock SE struts how long could these last? Also will I need a camber kit/plates, or if I install them and then just get an alignment will I be good to go?
#127
Originally Posted by Maxima-4DSC
youll blow the struts very fast you need aftermarket ones. im runnin tein s-techs and GR2's. you will most likely need an alignment. mine aligned fine without and plates.
#129
I pulled the transmission out of my automatic 1996 GXE, when i went to start it it took about 3 minutes to start up. it continuously does this everytime i start it. When it starts up it runs a little rough for about a min, but after that it runs good. Help anyone, I've been on it for five months because it wouldn't start at all and then i replaced the cam sensor then it did this.
#130
I dont want to post this in the main forum because they are probably tired of hearing it, but What is everyones oppinions on the Maxspeed's lowering springs? Any experience with them? Will they pair with GR2s? Will the ride be harsh? I am considering this setup because it is cheap, but will give me a nice drop.
#131
A/C smells musty
Hey all,
I'm new to the fourm. Just bought a 98 GLE w/ 83K. The car is in great condition, but the air coming out of the vents smells musty when the A/C is running. Are these cars known for bacteria buildup on the coils?
Thanks in advance.
Paul
I'm new to the fourm. Just bought a 98 GLE w/ 83K. The car is in great condition, but the air coming out of the vents smells musty when the A/C is running. Are these cars known for bacteria buildup on the coils?
Thanks in advance.
Paul
#132
i geuss no one actually replies to newbies here, it's just a way to build up the post count, so that's the plan.
#133
Probably mold somewhere in the vents. is it only specific vents or all of them?
I'll check, I thought here was a place where you can spray a dis-infectant and let the ac run as your spraying for it to clean out the vents.
I'll check, I thought here was a place where you can spray a dis-infectant and let the ac run as your spraying for it to clean out the vents.
#134
thanks for the reply. i havn't checked to see if the smell is stronger in some vents than others, but will do though.
i did find articles on the web that talked about how over the years auto mfrs have reduced the size of evaporators due to space constraints. the smaller sizes promote bacteria formation, due to the fins being much closer together.
one of the aritcles mentioned a company called airsept (airsept.com). i went to their website and they have products to disinfect, then coat the evaporator to extend protection.
i was trying to find out if the 98 maxima was prone to this happening to see if i was on the right track.
thanks again
i did find articles on the web that talked about how over the years auto mfrs have reduced the size of evaporators due to space constraints. the smaller sizes promote bacteria formation, due to the fins being much closer together.
one of the aritcles mentioned a company called airsept (airsept.com). i went to their website and they have products to disinfect, then coat the evaporator to extend protection.
i was trying to find out if the 98 maxima was prone to this happening to see if i was on the right track.
thanks again
#135
I have rarely heard of any 4th gen with a foul smelling AC, but I'm sure its possible.
I think there is something in the Faqs that mention where and how to clean out a bad smelling A/C at the top of the 4th gen section. See if any information is there.
If not that airsept company and their product sounds like what you would want to get that fresh air smell back.
I think there is something in the Faqs that mention where and how to clean out a bad smelling A/C at the top of the 4th gen section. See if any information is there.
If not that airsept company and their product sounds like what you would want to get that fresh air smell back.
#136
Originally Posted by Hexon
I dont want to post this in the main forum because they are probably tired of hearing it, but What is everyones oppinions on the Maxspeed's lowering springs? Any experience with them? Will they pair with GR2s? Will the ride be harsh? I am considering this setup because it is cheap, but will give me a nice drop.
Not too bad for the money. But after a few years of northeast winters I've noticed the yellow paint cracking and some rust developing on them.
If I decide to keep the car much longer I'll probably switch to HR & Illumina.
#137
Originally Posted by MDeezy
I have rarely heard of any 4th gen with a foul smelling AC, but I'm sure its possible.
I think there is something in the Faqs that mention where and how to clean out a bad smelling A/C at the top of the 4th gen section. See if any information is there.
If not that airsept company and their product sounds like what you would want to get that fresh air smell back.
I think there is something in the Faqs that mention where and how to clean out a bad smelling A/C at the top of the 4th gen section. See if any information is there.
If not that airsept company and their product sounds like what you would want to get that fresh air smell back.
#138
Originally Posted by MaximaSE96
s-techs are too soft for the drop they give u...if u live where roads are crappy u will bottom out
#139
I have a question about spark plugs
I was looking at these NGK BKR5EIX-11 spark plugs. Are they good? Would there be any better reccommendations?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=960&ptset=A
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=960&ptset=A
#141
Does anyone have instructions for replacing the window motor? (front/drivers side). The motor just keeps spinning and the window doesnt move. I took the door panel off and the cover for the motor was laying on the bottom and the insides look chewed up..
My back window has also fallen off the track completely. *sigh*
My back window has also fallen off the track completely. *sigh*
#142
Originally Posted by triggz
Does anyone have instructions for replacing the window motor? (front/drivers side). The motor just keeps spinning and the window doesnt move. I took the door panel off and the cover for the motor was laying on the bottom and the insides look chewed up..
My back window has also fallen off the track completely. *sigh*
My back window has also fallen off the track completely. *sigh*
to download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your year.
#143
Originally Posted by triggz
Does anyone have instructions for replacing the window motor? (front/drivers side). The motor just keeps spinning and the window doesnt move. I took the door panel off and the cover for the motor was laying on the bottom and the insides look chewed up..
My back window has also fallen off the track completely. *sigh*
My back window has also fallen off the track completely. *sigh*
and then just put the window back on the track? I assume it cant be too hard, after you stare at it for 5-10 mins.
#145
engine replaced
Man! I removed my 1995 engine (pain in the butt) and replaced it with another engine in the same generation. Problems: The hoses are different.
The car runs in high idle (maybe due to recent CEL 1005)...but I'd like to post pictures here to hope that someone can Identify the parts.
Any suggestion?
The car runs in high idle (maybe due to recent CEL 1005)...but I'd like to post pictures here to hope that someone can Identify the parts.
Any suggestion?
#146
Originally Posted by plmont
thanks for the reply. i havn't checked to see if the smell is stronger in some vents than others, but will do though.
i did find articles on the web that talked about how over the years auto mfrs have reduced the size of evaporators due to space constraints. the smaller sizes promote bacteria formation, due to the fins being much closer together.
one of the aritcles mentioned a company called airsept (airsept.com). i went to their website and they have products to disinfect, then coat the evaporator to extend protection.
i was trying to find out if the 98 maxima was prone to this happening to see if i was on the right track.
thanks again
i did find articles on the web that talked about how over the years auto mfrs have reduced the size of evaporators due to space constraints. the smaller sizes promote bacteria formation, due to the fins being much closer together.
one of the aritcles mentioned a company called airsept (airsept.com). i went to their website and they have products to disinfect, then coat the evaporator to extend protection.
i was trying to find out if the 98 maxima was prone to this happening to see if i was on the right track.
thanks again
There's a FAQ on this, it involves spraying a can of Lysol in the intake vent. Inexpensive and effective.
#147
Originally Posted by JPMax
You can go here: http://www.phatg20.net/modules.php?n...ownload&cid=73
to download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your year.
to download the FSM (Factory Service Manual) for your year.
#148
Y-pipe question
New to the forum, first post ever, but ive been looking around and already you guys have been a big help. Picked up a 99 Black on Black 5-speed about 2 weeks ago now, love it, but it is a little slow. Already bought a short throw for it (cuz it was in desperate need of it) and now im looking for a bit more power. There are a few y-pipes I've found recently and I want some opinions on what to buy. There is a Stone Mountain Racing one, with headers for about 300 canadian, and theres a warpspeed one with a high-flow cat for approximately the same price. Is it worth it to go for the headers?
#149
Originally Posted by BlackMaxBoy
New to the forum, first post ever, but ive been looking around and already you guys have been a big help. Picked up a 99 Black on Black 5-speed about 2 weeks ago now, love it, but it is a little slow. Already bought a short throw for it (cuz it was in desperate need of it) and now im looking for a bit more power. There are a few y-pipes I've found recently and I want some opinions on what to buy. There is a Stone Mountain Racing one, with headers for about 300 canadian, and theres a warpspeed one with a high-flow cat for approximately the same price. Is it worth it to go for the headers?
Might want to look at LSS Exhaust too. http://www.lssexhaust.com/
I believe they were running a special for Maxima owners. See thread below:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=487450
#151
thanks guys, i'm leaning towards the one with headers, cuz im probably going to boost it eventually (supercharger). i was looking around on ebay today and i found another ypipe with headers by OBX. i havent heard anything about them, so i need some feedback. they're a little more expensive, but my friend says they are probably of better quality than the stone mountain racing ones. any feedback will help.
#152
oh, one other thing, there is another maxima service manual i found at http://carfish.mentally-challenged.com. havent really gone through it yet, but u can never have to much help.
#153
Best Way to attack the Alternator
I'm going to replace my alty and found that its in a very awkward place to reach. Whats the best/easiest way to get at this thing?
#155
pedal vibration from 2000-3200rpms
I just bought a 99 Maxima automatic with 85000 miles on it just last week and i noticed when i get above 2000 rpms to around 3200 rpms, there is a slight pedal vibration. Is there anything that is wrong when it does this or is it normal? I'm going to need to replace the battery soon as the mechanic said, would this have anything to do with it or possibly acceleration loss?
Thanks
Thanks
#157