I have a 96 max and I need a new MAFS. Does any 4th gen MAFS work as a replacement? I'm just wondering because I figure a newer one would be better.

 

Question: My low beams went out, im getting by on foglights and highbeams. What would be the most likely cause?

good idea with this page, by the way...

 

Headlight problem: Low beams out on both, highbeams fine (but kill the fogs, is that normal?). Believe both sides stopped working at the same time, so I'll assume this is an electrical problem. But before i start voltage tests, i want to know if this is a common problem with a textbook solution.

Please help, I'm a traffic stop waiting to happen and my license is already suspended! (dont ask)

 

sorry for the double-post. not intended.

 

try an new light bulb first. Check all ground, make sure there arent any naked wires anywhere, or a short that might have cause the low's to go out in the first place

Yes they will all work. Check car-part.com to try and find one for a good price

 

I've got a busted right side fog light on my 95 max SE. Anyone bought one of these recently? Can your recommend a specific junk yard or other place that is reputable? I ordered one from a place I found on the Internet (D&J Auto Parts, 888-762-4333). They charged my cc, but still hadn't shipped it after 4 weeks, despite calling the manager twice, so I had my bank reverse the charge. Based on other recent experiences, it seems like if a company doesn't get back to you in 2-3 days you should fear the worst and take action.

 

Yes, fog lights go off when high beams come on. I think there is a way to get high + fog to work at the same time, search this site for answers. I would do that mod myself if it's not hard.

 

you can find some stuff using google. put this in the search field "site:forums.maxima.org <enter search term here>". But if you use the site a lot consider donating so you can use the search.

 

Misfire is due to no/poor spark, or not enough fuel in the cylinder, or poor compression (or a combination). You said compression is good so we can rule that out. Did you check that you're actually getting spark at the plug? Was the old injector bad (did you do the ohm test? did it make a clicking sound)? Was the old plug fouled or burned away? Maybe the sensor is wrong and it's not actually misfiring?

 

My driver side window failed. In the down position. I was in a hurry to fix obviously, didn't have time to find a used part. Freakin' expensive, like $500 for parts + labor as I recall.

 

Did you buy 4 new tires or just two? If just two, did you rotate them to the back? I'd guess those are shot?

 

So lots of people on this forum have lowered their maxima. I want to go the other way, and get about 1.5-2" more ground clearance so I can get up some of the rocky fire roads by my house to get to the good hiking trails. I know it won't handle as well, I'm okay with that since my SE is way better than most other stock sedans (plus my motorcycle is waaaaaay faster than any production car ;-). Anyone know what parts have to be replaced? Rough cost?

 

My car was in a front-end collision (got hit by moron that didn't see a red light) a few years ago. When I got it back from the body shop the headlights didn't turn off when I took the key out. Never got around to having the body shop fix it, then I moved. Anybody know how to fix this?

 

I checked my CEL codes and I get a code for my MAFS and IATS. I'm in the process of getting a new MAFS but I was wondering how important it is to replace the IATS. My car won't rev over 2k and when I try it dies. From what I gather it's probably the MAFS, but I'm not sure if the IATS is a problem too. Should I replace the IATS with the MAFS?

 

Do the MAF first. A bad MAF will keep rpms below 2k.

 

Was auto headlight turnoff an option on SE/GLE models?

As far as I know 4th gen headlights need to be turned on/off manually.

 

Sorry if this is covered already, but I can't find it. I have a 99 GLE that is getting no spark and no action at the injectors. I have it at the local shop, and the guy says the ECU needs to be replaced. I can't just use any ECU from a '99, right? What are my options in the used ECU arena? I know I could get a new one from Nissan, programmed for my car, at a cost of hundreds, but I'm looking for a less expensive route. Thanks in advance.

 

I read about how to test the ignition coils with the ohmmeter i tried it and the readings just dont make sense.i read readings are suppose to be between 1.3 and 1.7M but mine reads 0.436 or o.4 something on all coils.am i doing something wrong or missing something.I cant use search functions so please help out here.also my tester reads 1. for infinit resistance is this normal.Any input is appreciated thanks.

 

You cant get just any. if you are a 99 cali spec, you would want to get a 99 cali spec ecu.

How did he test the coils?
How did he test the injectors?
Did he check for fuel pressure?

I would try to have him exhaust all other resources before replacing the ecu, they arent normally prone to go out. It can happen, and there was a TSB but for the 95/96 years.
actually your coils should read as infinite. If it does that means they are good, if not then replace. This is whats stated by the haynes. THis testing sometimes hasnt been the most accurate.

A spark tester would be a little more accurate to test coils and spark at the same time.

 

I can't be sure, but when I bought my SE the headlights turned off when the key was removed. Since the original owner didn't even know that the car came with a tool kit I kind of doubt he would have done an electrical mod.

 

Quick question, and this may have been covered elsewear. I have the opportunity to pick up a set of 225/55/17 snow tires for free (mother is selling her car and said she'd give them to me, good deal eh?). Anyway, she needs an answer shortly, or shes not going to keep them. Anyone know if they will fit without rubbing? Also, I looked up the total diameter difference and its about an inch and a half. Good? Bad? Let me know.

 

MMMk here I go, 1999 max, cali exhaust, P0420 code. Can I buy an o2 simulator to pass my NYS inspection (just curious, not saying I am gonna do it). And if I did, do I have to reset the CEL or just drive and have it turn off. How far do i have to drive for the P0420 to be completely out of the ECU. HELP HELP HELP. hahaha. Is there anything else I would have to get with this simulator to make the whole thing work. Where do I find the best one. Thanks all I am a pain.

 

Do you have 17" rims?

 

Yes, the tires come with steel 17s. I'm currently running the stock 16s. I may just try throwing them on really quick this weekend to make sure, but any input is useful. I have to put in my new short throw anyway, so I'll probably just make an afternoon of it.

 

Ok what's the bolt pattern of the rims?

 

I'm not sure, but is P0420 a catalyst efficiency code? If it is you can buy o2 simulators HERE though you should just replace the cat or at least knock it out because they usually clog when they melt.

 

Changed the old injector, changed the spark plug, changed the coil. All are working. Still misfiring. Going to re-check the code and see what cylinder is misfiring now. I am thinking that my injectors are going bad one at a time.

 

Has anyone bought any brake rotors from ebay?
Are these rotors really brembo? does anyone know? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-Ma...spagenameZWDVW

and what about these? they look more real and are more expensive.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/94-99...spagenameZWDVW

 

It's the front cat, I can't find one on autozone.com. Would you know any other internet sellers that may have one. Is that one a b***h to replace?

 

I just failed my Maine State inspection, (which has been due well over a year now...).

94 GXE - 206312m

It was the catalytic converter. I know that a couple of years ago the cover came off, so I am not surprised that it might be getting old and less than efficient.

Now, remember, I am a chick, but I have repaired many a thing on the car lately (replaced shifter bushing, rebuilt two window regulators (rebuilt, not replaced!), etc). But I always get screwed when I take a car to a shop for repairs.

What can I expect for cost, any recommendations, anyone know of a shop that will give an inspection sticker to just about anything in Maine?

CHEERS!!!!

 

I have a '97 max with no spark. I brought it in, and they checked all the wiring, thought it was this or that sensor, and ended up replacing the entire computer. This cost me over $400, and it ran for 1 day, and wouldn't start the next morning.
Is it common for computers to go out in 97's? After replacing it, why would it stop starting again so quickly? Is there any advice you can offer?

 

A new oem cat will be around $800 just for the part.

You could get an aftermarket direct fit one online for under $200 and replace it yourself if the bolts aren't too rusted.
http://www.nissanpartspro.com/shoppi...N&model=MAXIMA

 

Have you tried replacing the Ignition Switch?
Checked the starter motor?
Checked the alternator? I believe some 97s had issues with alternators.

 

The ECU will post a code when it detects a bad sensor two times in a row. So for example, if it thinks the camshaft position sensor isn't responding properly, it won't start. If it happens two times in a row, it posts a code. It will only start if the sensor appears to respond correctly. So you *want* the code to appear. When my CmPS was going bad, it helped to pull the key out of the ignition before trying to start it again.

The other popular issue (aside from a bad starter or battery) is the ignition switch. It's a $25 parts and is fairly easy to replace. I suggest you change that first if you aren't getting any ECU codes.

The original 97 alternators had a faulty diode that caused a minor fire risk. It was a recall, so you should find out if the alternator is eligible for replacement under the recall. However, alternators have very little to do with starting problems, especially if your battery is charged.

Dave

 

Question:I forgot my lights on for a full day.Battery was obviously dead .Since then,every 3 days or so,I have to change the tail lights fuse, it just keeps blowing and then my tails and brake lights dont work.Worst part is,I dont know when it happens, and it could be dangerous on the road for me and everyone around me. Please help me, I dont know where to look.

 

Finally, a way to post a question. Although, if the @#$^& search function worked, I wouldn't need to post....

My wife's 98 Maxima SE in Rosewood will soon become my daily driver after we get her a new ride and I just can't be rolling in OEM style. It was OK for her though ;-) The tires will need replacing shortly, so I'm looking for new rubber on 18's and drop it down 1-2" -- what 18" tire is equivalent to the OEM size, what wheel offset should I be looking for to keep the tires in the wheelwells, and which suspension kit offers the necessary drop without a backbreaking ride? As for bumping HP, what CARB legal options are out there for CAI, exhaust, and chip? TIA

 

You have a short in the circuit, somewhere a wire has frayed (or somethng similiar) and the live wire is touching ground, causing the circuit to draw more amps than it is meant to, thereby popping the fuse instead of having all the wires in the circuit turn into a toaster oven. Start with the bulb sockets, could be wet or something, then move on to following the wires as best you can. Shorts can be easy to damn near impossible to find, good luck and look careful were wires and harnesses bend around something, and don't forget that the lightswitch itself is part of the circuit and can short out........

Oh and I agree, VERY dangerous, I had a headlight switch go bad in this oldsmobile beater I got for free, it stopped sending power to the taillights, and I came really close to getting rear-ended by someone doing 100+ at 2 in the morning, I assumed they were drunk and stupid, it was a really close call, then I got puled over later on

 

wow what a perfect thread for me, I was going to keep posting until I got to 15 posts just to ask a simple question, well here it is:

I just replaced my rotors and brake pads on the front of my car. They work fine as far as I know, no sounds but when I came home and got out I could smell them. Does this happen to all new brakes until they wear a bit? Or could it be because I put to much grease in the pins? When I greased the pins they slide perfectly.

 

Jack up the car and make sure the wheels spin freely. Press and release brakes and make sure they still spin freely again. New brakes must be broken in, your supposed to go real easy on the first few stops, allowing them to cool each time while using them harder and harder. You did use disc brake grease right? Also, did you use brake cleaner to take the anti-corrosion treatment off of the new rotors? anyways, jack it up and let us know.

 

^^^When you put too much grease on the pins it creates a vacuum that draws the pin in and causes the brakes to drag more than normal.