I am having a problem when I turn left I get a clicking/popping noise on the driver side. I cant seem to pinpoint the problem. When I first begin to turn left it pops and then usually I turn harder and it pops again or twice but it doesnt do it all the way through the turn just for a sec and it done. It also seems to make the noise when I am bringing the wheel back straight. I started inspecting all my bushings and I found nothing.

Today I decided hey I will jack up the car and check the driver axle. I jacked up the car looked under and seen this black sensor plug in the side of the trans and there was fluid on it a puddle and it seemed to have leaked a puddle onto the ground also. So I continued to exmined and I noticed there seemed to be trans oil on the bottom of the trans. Then I looked at the driver axle closer to where it inserts into the trans and noticed a slight layer of trans over covering it where it inserts into the trans all the way to the inner cv joint. I started pushing on the big gold piece and it moved side2side and up/down. I am sure there is to be no play there which is making me think I have bad diff. bearings. This is the original trans with 216K on it. If there is a problem which I am sure there is I would like to try to catch it and keep my costs down. I am sure it is probably fixable since the axle does not seem to be leaking major yet. I do not know if the popping noise is related to the play in the axle or something else.

If anyone does know the problem. Please let me know.

Pics below click to enlarge them.

 

2 more pictures

 

Well...I suppose it could be the axle itself, however, I doubt it. My '97 SE exhibited the same symptoms a year ago and it turned out to be the internal trans bearings (essentially, the trans needed a rebuild). If I were you, I'd plan on that (as Maximas are well-known for it).

 

The oil is coming from either the sensor or the axle. You need to clean the tranny of the oil and take it for a short drive to see if you can find the leak. I think you'll find it's entirely unrelated to the popping sound. I can't understand what you wrote - is there or is there not play between the axle and trans housing?

Continuous clicking during a turn is usually not associated with tranny problems - usually that indicates a bad CV joint (need a new axle). But you're describing a pop that doesnt' continue as you roll thru the turn. So I think you've probably got a bad strut bearing - it's a plastic thrust bearing that sits ontop of the shock. Those are pretty easy to fix and not expensive. If you take it out and wipe it down, it shouldn't be leaking grease and it shoudl turn smoothly while putting pressure on it (I do this by holding it in the palms of my hands).

Dave

 

The test for the tranny bearing seems to be to push vertically up on the drive axle where it exits the tranny and see if oil start coming out. The faster the oil comes out, the closer you are to a tranny failure.

My tranny looked much like yours during a recent suspension rebuild. I cleaned it all up, replaced the tranny axle seal and it seems to be holding. I don't have so many miles tho.

On the click sound, I agree with Dave. It sounds more like struts.

 

I can push on the brown piece hooked to the axle and it moves up and down and side2side.

As far as the bad strut bearing I have coilovers.

 

That rusted end of the axle is what should not have any wiggle. Your tranny diff bearings have died. I suggest you get that tranny rebuilt asap. It is in a weakened state, and with oil leaking it is even more prone to grenading. Keep the tranny oil topped off if you have to drive it.

You'll save a lot of money if you pull the tranny yourself and take the unit to a shop. Or, if you're fighting time, buy a used tranny, get it rebuilt (most have signficant bearing wear), and swap them.

Dave

 

How much do you think this will cost? I am trying to figure out if it worth fixing or buying a used one. It not leaking excessively yet which is a good sign. There not huge amounts of oil leaking out of the axle seal which means I dont have excessive amounts of play in the trans. It should be a pretty cheap job. $300-$400 or am I stupid?

 

It takes a lot of bearing wear before the axle starts to leak, so your bearings are really deteriorated. Not that you would have known to find the problem sooner, but the bearings are losing metal rapidly now.

If you bring me a tranny, and I rebuild it with new bearings and seals, and nothing else inside is damaged, I charge $450. Prices start there and go up - I don't have a storefront shop so my labor rate is really low and you probably won't find anyone who can beat that number. Don't forget the cost of parts, and if you want new synchros and stuff put in (not necessary unless you have trouble shifting into a particular gear) it's going to be almost double that.

Used trannys are a real mixed bag since they usually sell for 'like-new' prices but most of them need a rebuild. You can do a crude test for a really bad tranny by inserting something like a broomhandle into the diff and see if you can wiggle the diff inside the housing. Turn the input shaft back and forth - it should turn smoothly and silently, and no tapping sound when you change directions.

The best thing you can do is make sure the seller will accept a no-questions-asked return, and immediately take the tranny to a tranny shop so they can crack it open and inspect things. It will only take them maybe 1 hr of labor, and if the bearings are shot you can take it back to the seller and/or renegotiate the price. This will also help you get an accurate estimate on the rebuild price from the tranny shop. Just don't buy it and assume the world is sunny and warm inside that thing.

Dave

 

Great advice Dave!

 

Thanks for the advice Dave. I wish you lived closer as I would let you rebuild my trans. I have had no other problems with the trans it just that I noticed the play in the axle which makes me think it only my diff bearings. I also noticed leaking at the black sensor on the side so a new o-ring should probably fix that and I noticed a layer of oil on the transaxle control rod I believe(next to y-pipe). So those 2 seals probably need replaced. I really hope there is no other problems. But I guess the longer I wait the more problems I am asking for. I told my dad about the problem today and he didnt seem to think much of it. He told me it was no big deal until I started having more problems. I couldnt get it through him that the longer I wait to fix this the more the costs is going to be. I told him if we drained the trans fluid there would be metal flakes and stuff in the oil and he said no.

But now on to my question How hard is this to do yourself? There didnt seem to be much work as I have read the motorvate write up and the FSM. As far as removing the bearings I would probably take them and get them removed unless I could come up with the right tools.

 

If you don't have the pullers, measuring tools, and other assorted equipment, it's probably best to hand the tranny to a transmission shop. If you want to DIY, it's a tedious and messy job, and you'll probably want to hand the bearings and axles to a shop and have them do all the pulling/pressing.

I can assure you that the tranny should not be left alone. The play in the diff has now prevented the gear teeth from meshing fully, and under torque the gears can strip. http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=442307

Dave

 

Yea I know what your saying. I just kinda want to do it myself as I want to make sure everything is done right. As far as shimming and etc if you know what I mean. Once I get to the bearings I will probably just take that down to a shop and have to removed and put back on and see if they would shim them for me. But I would want to see the results by eye everytime to insure everything is going to be correct.

I just let my car sit overnight and I have a puddle of trans fluid on the ground. But it is all leaking out of the black thing on the side of the trans. Do I just need to get a new o-ring or is the metal gotten to the o-ring and opened a crack in it?

What is the best way to check the trans fluid? Does the car have to jacked on all 4 corners to be level or just the front lifted?

 

Yes, the car must be lifted level to check the tranny oil level. Use a 1/2" socket wrench and remove the plug with the square recess in it. It's fairly reachable with the battery removed, although that's not necessary.

The sensor that's leaking is probably worth replacing with a new one. It may be cracked. but then again it's also a low point on the tranny, so it could just be the oil from the diff seal. The sensor is only $25 from Nissan. Even if the oil on it is coming from the diff oil seal, it's good to replace this sensor during the rebuild since it gets so brittle and weak.

Dave

 

Can anyone tell me as to why motorvate website says to remove the y pipe and center member? But the FSM just says to unbolt the center member? But the FSM doesnt say anything about removing exhaust?

Is it safe to just place a jack under the oil pan? Is it strong enough to hold the weight of the engine(the oil pan)?

 

NO. dont put anything under the oil pan to support the weight of the motor. you will destroy both your oil pan and oil pickup, and probably damage the upper oil pan as well.

 

On the FSM it says support engine of transaxle by placing jack under oil pan. Then says caution: do not place jack under oil drain plug

 

Alright so today I drove the car and I noticed this new noise. Sounded like skateboard wheels spinning. The noise was only noticeable in neutral and with the clutch out. I couldnt notice the noise when I was driving.

Also where can I get a bearing kit? I looked on your link dgeesaman and noticed you purchased a bearing kit from gt transmission. I could not find that company anywhere on the net.

And if anyone can answer my questions in post 15 it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Axle seals



lucky they are cheap


unlucky it's a semi-decent ammount of work

 

How is it my axle seals when we already determined the play in the axle at the housing? I already know the trans has to be dropped. But I noticed this new noise and I wanna try to figure out what this is going to run me.

 

I think Motorvate is jus trying to get as much working room as possible. Taking off the exhaust prolly makes gettin to all the bolts on th tranny a breeze.

As for the jack on the oil pan, I think you're OK as long as you get a piece of wood to distribute the load. A 6"x6" piece of 5/8" ply is ideal. You're not taking the full load as the L and R engine mounts are still there, you jus don't want the full engine weight on 2 mounts.

Careful dropping the tranny. 100lbs wobbling on top of a jack is scarey esp when you're under it. You don't want to mash the input shaft into your clutch springs! Unless you're a stud I'd get help with that.

 

Well I start removing the trans tomorrow. I will have 2 other people helping. I sprayed all the bolts down tonight so hopefully everything will come off pretty easy.

I still need to figure out how to support the engine without damaging anything once I loosen up the center member I think I can shove some wood under there and get a jack under there. I guess I will find out tomorrow.

 

Well here an update as to what I have gotten done.

I begun the project at 1:30 today got everything in the engine bay off/out. Then it was about 3:30 jacked the car up took off wheels and then come to find out my 32mm socket wasnt big enough to accomadate the axle nut. So I had to take an hr and half to go get a 36mm. Get home get the nuts off. Decided to start with the passenger axle. Got the 3 bolts out went to pull it out and it didnt move. I pulled some more still nothing then I pulled again and then I noticed the inner cv boot was stretched out and I was like wtf. I felt it and it seems like maybe the joint came out. I really dont know. But now my boot stretched out. Anyone got any opinions? Then I was hitting at it and then the axle hits the brake line and so now my brake line broke. So I undone the 3 bolts securing it to the block after I read on here that piece becomes rusted and stuck together. So there 2-3 hrs trying to get the passenger axle off. Got the driver axle off and now it is dark. So I will begin the rest around 1:30 tomorrow.

 

Ouch!
There's an additional bracket holding the passenger side in. You'll notice the tranny is under the drivers seat and the diff is right there too. The passenger side axle is almost twice as long as the drivers side and has this additional bearing. Explore the shaft up to the tranny and you'll find it. 2 x 14mm but you can only get a wrench in there. Took me 30mins.

Good job you're replacing that axle. Sorry to hear you're doing brakes as well.

 

In your last 2 pictures. I have what looks to be the same leak as well. I don't have any noises though.

I would have thought with your drop on the D2s it probably just killed your axles.

 

I have a very similar issue to what has been discussed above.

Recently, due to a knocking CV I replaced the passenger CV halfshaft on a '96 (5sp non LSD) with a Duralast replacement (likely mistake #1).

After install the axle leaked at the seal, whereas it never leaked before. Assuming I must have damaged the seal on install I popped it out and tapped in a replacement from Napa. Again it leaks. I thought that perhaps the machined surface on the remanned axle was cut too small. I measured with a dial caliper, returned to Autozone and swapped for another axle that measured 8/1000s larger. Of course it still leaks, although it *seems* like it may be leaking less.

I've read the FAQ on the diff. bearings and of course the above thread discussing the same issue. What bothers me is that before pulling the original axle it never leaked. Perhaps I disturbed the peace and swapped axles just before the leak would have begun. I did refill with a GL5 oil as that was all the parts store stocked but I don't see that as a cause for the leak - (side note the trans shifts/works same on GL5 but I'll be filling GL4 once leak is resolved). The original oil that came out (had never been changed) was very clear and showed no signs of metal shavings - though there may be a magenetic catch in the trans somewhere.

Does this really sounds like the bearing going bad, given it never leaked before? Could the Duralast axles be out of tolerance on the machined surface against the seal? Any input is greatly appreciated.

Car:
1996
5sp non LSD
~100k miles
gently daily driven by my father who has owned car since ~15k miles
Believe it or not this is the very first problem this car has given us, other than a CEL due to a faulty knock sensor

Lastly, please accept my apologies on the semi-thread hijack especially on my first post - Dad would like his car back and the search feature doesn't even seem to work for new members under 15 post count.

Thank you,
John

 

Oil seals are fine with even several thous of tolerance, since the rubber inside diameter stretches over the journal surface. But the fact that one axle measure .008 larger than another at the seal location is kinda scary. I would try yet another seal, but from Nissan if possible. Check the id of the seal vs the od of the axle - there should be some interference to stretch the seal lip. If you're not sure, I can look up the catalog tolerances for the seal.

Make sure the axle is in all the way - it should click in solidly. Sometimes I have trouble getting it to snap in, and it will drive without being snapped in, but on the first hard turn with a big bump, you'll really leak the oil (don't ask - but trust me you don't want this situation). Also use vaseline on the axle splines and oil seal lip. When it's clicked in, push and pull on the big section of the axle right by the tranny. It should be rock solid, which indicates the bearings are properly preloaded.


If your gear oil is clean then bearing wear is unlikely. There is an internal magnet, but it won't pick up the metal dust that leaves the gear oil a nasty jet black color. So clean oil IME indicates very good bearings.

Dave

 

Thanks for the reply.

The plan right now is to replace the seal with one from Nissan as you have suggested.

However, regarding the axle 'clicking' in to place... it doesn't. This is the passenger axle and doesn't have a big end. Nor did it have a groove for a retaining clip like almost every other FWD axle I have seen. That has me a bit concerned, is the passenger axle supposed to click in? From what I have observed once the axle is bolted up to the bearing mount it is seated as far as it possibly can go... and yet no click? When I removed the original I unbolted the bearing mount from the engine block and the axle slid right out without any resistance and no 'unclicking' noise.

Upon install I used antiseize compound on the splined then and the machined seal journal to ensure a smooth entry.

Thanks again!
John

 

I wouldn't use the anti-seize, it usually contains copper flakes that add unnecessary dirt to the tranny oil. Vaseline is better.

The passenger side does not need to click into place. If you're getting leakage at the axle seal on that side, it's more likely that Napa gave you a drivers side seal - nearly the same size, but different.

Dave

 

I didn't know there was a difference between the drivers and passenger side axle seals. At Napa they cross referenced the numbers on the seal they gave me with the numbers on the original seal and said it matched. Either way I'll be getting a genuine Nissan seal (is there a cheap online source? my work schedule usually doesn't permit me to be able to get to a dealer parts counter during their hours). Good to know the passenger side axle does not snap in!

-John

 

Being in NE you may like Jerry Rome Nissan for online parts buying.

However, in the past I've had parts counters set aside the part you need and leave it with the cashier, who is open later.

I personally don't place much concern about OEM vs non-OEM seals, provided you get the right one.

 

I had my clutch changed at the school where I work. They replaced the left seal twice and it was still leaking abit. They took nearly two and a half weeks, so no more of this. Their liability is also limited by law. I was at my brother's a couple hundred miles away when I found alot of oil leaking. All but one of the carrier bolts on the right side had fallen out. The axle was probably flopping around in the seal. Got home and replaced the it with a seal from Napa which still leaked, second was OEM (which also has a lip to block external debris.). The good part is this one is still fine Car - 1, Me - 1. I have not found any metal in the drained oil, but pulling the left seal again, I found a deep scratch where the seal sits. I suspect, one of the students used a screw driver instead of a seal puller. Any suggestions for this?

 

So you're saying the scratch is such that it could allow oil around the seal?

I would use a shot of silicone sealant with the seal. Clean it really well with brake cleaner first.

Dave