about to order flywheel. any tips or suggestions for installing?
#1
about to order flywheel. any tips or suggestions for installing?
im about to order the fidanza flywheel and the 5th gen clutch, the 5th gen pressure plate and clutchplate both fit right? what grade loctiite do i use on the flywheel bolts?
#2
Originally Posted by acidspit86
im about to order the fidanza flywheel and the 5th gen clutch, the 5th gen pressure plate and clutchplate both fit right? what grade loctiite do i use on the flywheel bolts?
bump.... also, does anyone know the weight of the stock flywheel?
#3
i have never held a stock flywheel but its probably steel like most and most weigh around 23 pounds or so. the fidanza weighs about 8 pounds and is a nice piece to have (i have one on another car). why would you want to use a factory clutch that may not even fit your application? just get a nice stage 2 or 3 clutch from spec or clutchmasters, you know it'll fit and they are good clutches. i have a clutchmasters stage 4 on my other car and i have to say its the nicest clutch i have ever driven. its a little harsh on the engagement but its nice to have one that feels like its actually engaging and not slipping.
#5
I have a few questions relating to this. I am replacing my Spec Stage one and stock flywheel with another Spec Stage 1 and Fidanza.
1) I was reading the service manual and was wondering how difficult it is to remove the drive axle.
2) Do I have to remove the Y-Pipe?
3) I was told I have a leaky Drive Axle Seal. I presume that this is the seal that is found where the drive axle meets the trans?
4) What else should I replace while down there (already got new Throw out Bearing)
5)How long should this take. Can it be done with one person. And what is the most important tool.
Thanks in advance. I've gotta get this done soon...the slipping is unbearable.
1) I was reading the service manual and was wondering how difficult it is to remove the drive axle.
2) Do I have to remove the Y-Pipe?
3) I was told I have a leaky Drive Axle Seal. I presume that this is the seal that is found where the drive axle meets the trans?
4) What else should I replace while down there (already got new Throw out Bearing)
5)How long should this take. Can it be done with one person. And what is the most important tool.
Thanks in advance. I've gotta get this done soon...the slipping is unbearable.
#6
Originally Posted by 96Turbo3.5
i have never held a stock flywheel but its probably steel like most and most weigh around 23 pounds or so. the fidanza weighs about 8 pounds and is a nice piece to have (i have one on another car). why would you want to use a factory clutch that may not even fit your application? just get a nice stage 2 or 3 clutch from spec or clutchmasters, you know it'll fit and they are good clutches. i have a clutchmasters stage 4 on my other car and i have to say its the nicest clutch i have ever driven. its a little harsh on the engagement but its nice to have one that feels like its actually engaging and not slipping.
Originally Posted by MireLanski
1) I was reading the service manual and was wondering how difficult it is to remove the drive axle.
Originally Posted by MireLanski
2) Do I have to remove the Y-Pipe?
Originally Posted by MireLanski
3) I was told I have a leaky Drive Axle Seal. I presume that this is the seal that is found where the drive axle meets the trans?
Originally Posted by MireLanski
4) What else should I replace while down there (already got new Throw out Bearing)
Originally Posted by MireLanski
5)How long should this take. Can it be done with one person. And what is the most important tool.
#8
It's really a pretty easy job. Have a pry bar at the ready to pop the drive axles out...just line up the splines, push and wiggle them back in when you're done. A small tap at the end with a rubber mallet can help if/when they're stubborn. Also, be careful when you dismount the ball joints (the rubber boots tear very easily). I just pried down on the a-arm and then gave it a good whack right near the ball joint and it separated immediately. Aside from this, just take your time and MAKE SURE nothing's connected b4 pulling the tranny out and down...oh, and use your alignment tool (makes install soooo much easier). I don't have many mods (3.5/intake/full exhaust, Fidanza), however, I wanted to be sure that my clutch would easily hold up even if/when I go to a S/C'er. I've heard of several people with stock 5th gen clutches that failed soon after the 3.5 swap, so I didn't want to take any chances. Lastly (and this may seem like a stupid reminder), but be sure to transfer your timing ring over from the OEM flywheel to the Fidanza, or you'll have no spark. Good luck.
#9
I had a fidanza flywheel with an Act Stage 1 installed about 2 years ago and I have been living with a shudder if I don't shift at just the right rpm since then. Example: If I am on the highway in 5th gear and someone cuts me off and I take my foot off the gas and then change lanes and punch the gas while still staying in 5th gear, the car will shudder for a second or two and then acclerate. There was a thread about this long ago but nothing was resolved. Unfortunately, I did not do the install myself because I didn't have the time and space to do it. Reading the previous post by csb, could it have something to do with the timing ring not being installed correctly? Is it even possible to install the timing ring incorrectly?
#11
my timing ring is like welded on my flywheel..and I didnt do it. but I have a new clutch and pp and t/o bearing. I was wondering about reliability and longevity of the fidanza? I think my flywheel has been resurfaced at least twice now maybe 3 times and dunno if I should get another?
#13
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Originally Posted by MireLanski
CSB,
Can you go more in depth about the timing ring. Is it in the center of the flywheel? On it behind it? Where and what does it look like?
Can you go more in depth about the timing ring. Is it in the center of the flywheel? On it behind it? Where and what does it look like?
-matt
#15
Originally Posted by MDeezy
5th Gen Clutch is a direct bolt on to our cars, there is no question of weather it will fit. Plus if he isnt running any serious mods, no need for a Stage 2 or 3 clutch. the 5th gen will be nice and grippy, perform well, plus is cost effective.
Easy.
No.
Yes.
When changing your clutch replace all, clutch, Pressure Plate, and Throw out bearing, re-grease Throw out bearing and fork.
It can be done with one person, if its your first time I’d say a few hours it would probably take you.
Easy.
No.
Yes.
When changing your clutch replace all, clutch, Pressure Plate, and Throw out bearing, re-grease Throw out bearing and fork.
It can be done with one person, if its your first time I’d say a few hours it would probably take you.
Concerning changing the clutch and flywheel, what large tools do I need (prybar, 17mm sockets", breakerbar, punches)? I have one jack, one bottle jack and two jack stands. Would that suffice?
Do I need to drain the tranny fluid?
#16
Yes you'll need to drain the tranny, either have new fluid to go back in or catch the old and put it back in.
Pry bar
Deep sockets and/or strong impact sockets 14mm-22mm to be on the safe side
brake bar 3'+ or air tools or electric impact wrench
Jack stands
bottle jack would be good to help support the tranny. A tranny jack/stand would be best but its not always needed.
have some DOT 3 brake fluid to bleed to clutch line
I think thats all . . . I'll post back if I remember anything I forgot
Pry bar
Deep sockets and/or strong impact sockets 14mm-22mm to be on the safe side
brake bar 3'+ or air tools or electric impact wrench
Jack stands
bottle jack would be good to help support the tranny. A tranny jack/stand would be best but its not always needed.
have some DOT 3 brake fluid to bleed to clutch line
I think thats all . . . I'll post back if I remember anything I forgot
#17
Originally Posted by aatorres83
My clutch is starting to slip (the RPMs jump unusually high when I accelerate, then the engine "catches" and the RPMs drop to where they should be, this happens when I'm driving anywhere from 10mph to 75mph) when I accelerate, and a greasy mechanic gave it a quick 60 sec inspect and confirmed that my cluch is bad and needs to be replaced. I know a little under the hood but replacing a clutch is beyond me.
I think the labor is going to be a lot because they have to pull out the transmission. If they're going to pull the guts of my car out I figure I might as well upgrade some parts while they're in there since I have the cash on hand. The car is approaching 180k miles. What performance clutches/flywheels are available for a '97 Maxima SE? Where can I buy them online? What other parts should I have checked/replaced/upgraded while the mechanic is in there?
I think the labor is going to be a lot because they have to pull out the transmission. If they're going to pull the guts of my car out I figure I might as well upgrade some parts while they're in there since I have the cash on hand. The car is approaching 180k miles. What performance clutches/flywheels are available for a '97 Maxima SE? Where can I buy them online? What other parts should I have checked/replaced/upgraded while the mechanic is in there?
Originally Posted by Flava_24/7
For an OEM clutch replacement look into a Exedy/Dayco. It will grab really well and you will be happy with it.
make sure you have the flywheel resurfaced and also check the rear main seal. You should repolace it even if its not leaking just as a sign of good measure. It will give you a good estimate of how long it should last considering it was done when the clutch was done. When changing your clutch replace all, clutch, Pressure Plate, and Throw out bearing, re-grease Throw out bearing and fork. Many Org members have been reall hapy with the 01 clutch so thats also a canidate.
make sure you have the flywheel resurfaced and also check the rear main seal. You should repolace it even if its not leaking just as a sign of good measure. It will give you a good estimate of how long it should last considering it was done when the clutch was done. When changing your clutch replace all, clutch, Pressure Plate, and Throw out bearing, re-grease Throw out bearing and fork. Many Org members have been reall hapy with the 01 clutch so thats also a canidate.
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