jerking when i drive and a rough idle when i stop....
08-19-2006, 06:01 AM
#1
jerking when i drive and a rough idle when i stop....
my car is auto......i am getting some jerking ang some rough idling from my car, i got codes for the O2 sensor and the MAF sensor, and the Cam Shaft Position sensor...
i changed the O2 sensors and the MAF sensor, and the camshaft position sensor, i even got a brand new air filter...my car is still get jerking, most of the jerking happen when i am cruising between 1500-2000 rpm...... once my rpm is in the range and i am cruising, the car jerks real bad.. do yall think i have a badd coilpack.. or bad plugs..the plugs are only 8 months old.... how do u test your coils and plugs?
i changed the O2 sensors and the MAF sensor, and the camshaft position sensor, i even got a brand new air filter...my car is still get jerking, most of the jerking happen when i am cruising between 1500-2000 rpm...... once my rpm is in the range and i am cruising, the car jerks real bad.. do yall think i have a badd coilpack.. or bad plugs..the plugs are only 8 months old.... how do u test your coils and plugs?
08-19-2006, 08:03 AM
#4
Well I should wrap this up before I start to ramble.
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,830
If you have bad coil pack for sure you will recive a SES(CEL). And your car will have major peformance issues, and you feel heavy shakes. I would recommend get a ODBII Scanner and scan for codes, they are cheap now and days.
Good Luck!
Take a look....
The Engine idle is un-balanced and is hunting.
Follow this link for, CASE HISTORIES
THE SLOW RETURN TO IDLE PROBLEM MAY OCCUR IF BATTERY POWER IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE ECU, OR IF THE BATTERY HAS BEEN RECENTLY FLAT.
THE CAUSE OF THE SLOW TO RETURN TO IDLE IS THE EEC IV COMPUTER NOT KNOWING WHERE THE T.P.S. IS POSITIONED.
REMEDY - TO RE-ESTABLISH THE IDLE MEMORY INTO THE EEC IV COMPUTER DO THE FOLLOWING :
* START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW IT TO REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE.
* ALLOW THE ENGINE TO IDLE FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE IN NEUTRAL POSITION, IF A MANUAL OR IN DRIVE IN AN AUTOMATIC.
*NOTE ALL ACCESSORIES MUST BE TURNED OFF WHILE IDLING.
Follow this link for, " KNOW HOW"
CAUSE: - A FAULTY CONNECTION AT THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL MOTOR D.C. IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS.
REMEDY - REPAIR THIS CONNECTION AND RETRY.
CAUSE: - THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL MOTOR slide IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS. (jammed, lifted by carbon build up etc.)
REMEDY - REPAIR THIS FAULT WITH THE INTER-JECT SERVICE ONLY!
CAUSE: - THE OPTICS MODULE AND PLATE IN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS DIRTY CAUSED BY A FAULTY SHAFT SEAL AND ENGINE BACK PRESSURE OILS ALL COMPONENTS INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR (NISSAN, VL, RODEO. ETC.)
CAUSE: - SOME ONE ALTERED THE THROTTLE BLADE STOP.
EA, EB, GAS CONVERSION FITTERS DO THIS, AND ALSO CAR OWNERS THEM SELF'S TO IMPROVE IDLING CHARACTERISTICS.
THIS CAUSES A CONFLICT BETWEEN OXYGEN SENSOR, ECU, AND THE IDLE STABILISER VALVE.
REMEDY - SET THE BUTTERFLY STOP TO CLOSED, DO A FULL INTERJECT SERVICE.
PROBLEM - ENGINE MISFIRING, ENGINE HUNTING AND INTERMITTENT FLAT SPOTS.
CAUSE: - FUEL PUMP.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP.
PROBLEM - FUEL STARVATION. CAUSE: - PLASTIC STRAINER AT THE FUEL PUMP INLET BLOCKED. REMEDY - BACK FLUSH AND CLEAN THE STRAINER WITH INTER-JECTRON.
| Shortcut back to Menu for more faults |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Engine has a very bad hesitation on acceleration.(flat spot)
Follow this link for, CASE HISTORIES
Most common faults as follow:
1. T.P.S SWITCH, TEMP SENSOR, DIRTY INJECTORS, FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR BELOW REQUIRED SETTING, AIR FLOW METER FAULTY, CARBON ON THE BACK OF THE VALVES IS THE MOST COMMON FAULT
REMEDY:- A FULL INTER-JECT SERVICE WITH THE LB-291/2F IS REQUIRED!
2. WATER IN FUEL, (it's very common), FUEL FILTER, FUEL PUMP, LEAKY FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR.
3. SPARK PLUG, LEADS, CONNECTORS, DISTRIBUTOR CAP, COIL PACK, IGNITION MODULE, IGNITION TIMING, WRONG FUEL WITH LOWER FLASH POINT AND OCTANE RATING.
4. VACUUM LEAKS ABOUT THE MANIFOLD AREA AND AIRFLOW METER, MAP SENSOR AREA,
5. SYSTEM IS NOT MATCHED PROPERLY TO A NEW OR SECOND HAND ENGINE, WRONG INJECTORS FITTED TO A LARGER ENGINE, STANDARD INJECTORS FITTED TO A TURBO ENGINE.
5. CAM BELT, VALVE TIMING, BENT OR SLIGHTLY BURNED VALVE, VALVE TO TIGHT, DISTRIBUTOR GEAR WORN, DISTRIBUTOR NEEDS REGRAPHING,
6. HIDDEN RESISTOR FITTED BY SOME ONE INTO THE TEMP CIRCUIT TO FOOL THE COMPUTER, SHORT OR DISCONNECTED AIR TEMP WIRING
7. THROTTLE BODY VERY DIRTY AND NOT CLOSING PROPERLY, ACCELERATOR CABLE FAULTY OR WRONG ADJUSTED, CRUSE CONTROL FAULTY.
8. WATER IN THE COMPUTER OR CORROSION ON THE CONNECTORS, VOLTAGE DROP FROM THE BATTERY, BAD EARTH.
9. ALTERNATOR DIODES FAULTY, TO MUCH AC CURRANT INTERFERING INTO THE DUTY CYCLE CURRENT OF THE IDLE STABILISER VALVE.
10. ECU RANDOM ACCESS MEMORY FAULTY, ECU NOT SET TO TPS LOCATION.
PROBLEM - INTERMITTENT NO SPARK. FUEL PUMP WORKING O.K.
CAUSE: - LOOSE EARTH CONNECTION ON THE RIGHT HAND STRUT TOWER.
REMEDY - REPAIR THE EARTH AND TIGHTEN.
CAUSE: - FAULTY HALL SENSOR IN DISTRIBUTOR.
REMEDY - REPLACE HALL DEVICE.
CAUSE: - INCORRECT ROUTING OF THE AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR WIRING CAN INTERFERE WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL THROTTLE LINKAGE.
REMEDY - RELOCATE THE WIRING AWAY FROM THE THROTTLE LINKAGE AND SECURE IT WELL AS SO IT WILL NOT AFFECT ANY OTHER MOVING PARTS OF THE ENGINE.
PROBLEM - STALLS WHEN ACCELERATOR IS USED. IDLES GOOD THOUGH.
CAUSE: - FAULTY THROTTLE VALVE SWITCH.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE THROTTLE VALVE SWITCH.
PROBLEM: - THE ENGINE WOULD START O.K. AND RUN AT IDLE O.K., BUT WHEN THE CARS ACCELERATOR WAS USED, IT WOULD NOT ACCELERATE.
CAUSE: - THE FUEL PUMP WAS FOUND TO BE FAULTY.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP.
PROBLEM - THE ENGINE WOULD START BAD. RUN AT IDLE O.K., BUT WHEN THE CARS ACCELERATOR WAS USED, IT WOULD NOT ACCELERATE.
CAUSE:- THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR WAS FOUND TO BE FAULTY. (LEAKING BADLY)
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR ONLY AFTER AN ATTEMPTED CLEANING PROCESS WITH INTER-JECTRON. IF NO GO REPLACE THE REGULATOR.
The Engine has a hesitation only just above idle by moving the accelerator slightly. (noticeable flat spot)
Follow this link for, CASE HISTORIES
Most common faults:-
1. FAULTY SPARK PLUG LEADS, LEADS ARCING ACROSS, IMPEDANCE TO HIGH, WRONG TYPE OF SPARK PLUG, GAP TOO FAR APART, COIL, COIL PACK FAULTY.
2. T.P.S. CONTACTS DIRTY, WRONG ADJUSTED OR FAULTY.
3. THROTTLE SHAFT WORN, BUTTERFLY WORN ON THE EDGES, DIRTY THROTTLE BODY, AIR LEAK IN GENERAL.
4. AIR FLOW METER OUT OF CALIBRATION. (SEE CALIBRATION IN THE DATA POOL) |Trade-Secrets|
5. BRAKE POWER BOOSTER AIR LEAK, BOLT OR NUT LOOSE NEAR THE POWER BOOSTER HOSE CONNECTION ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD OR GASKET LEAK.
6. OXYGEN SENSOR FAULTY, NO GOOD EARTH, EXHAUST HAS NO GOOD EARTH.
7. WORN DISTRIBUTOR, OR WORN DISTRIBUTOR GEAR.
8. VACUUM ADVANCE NOT WORKING, SPOUT WIRE NOT CONNECTED, ALTERNATOR EARTH POOR, POWER TRANSISTOR FAULTY.
CAUSE: - CHECK ALL EARTHING POINTS ARE UNDER 0.03V.
IF ANY ARE OVER THIS, THERE MAY BE PROBLEMS WITH THE CARS FLAT SPOT ABOVE IDLE.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE EARTHS.
SYMPTOM - SPARK PLUGS FOULED, DUE TO OVERFUELING.
CAUSE: - FAULTY ECU.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE ECU.
PROBLEM - MISFIRING AND STALLING WHEN UNDER LOAD CONDITIONS. CAUSE: - ROTOR BUTTON HAS BURNT OUT.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE ROTOR BUTTON WITH THE GENUINE PART ONLY.
CAUSE:- INTEGRATION IGNITION ASSEMBLY (I.I.A.)
PICK-UP COIL WIRES INSULATION RUBBED THROUGH AND WERE INTERMITTENTLY SHORTING.
REMEDY - RE-INSULATE THE WIRES AND RE-ROUTE THEM.
| Shortcut back to Menu for more faults |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Engine has a hesitation only just above idle by moving the accelerator slightly. (noticeable flat spot)
Follow this link for, CASE HISTORIES
Most common faults:-
1. FAULTY SPARK PLUG LEADS, LEADS ARCING ACROSS, IMPEDANCE TO HIGH, WRONG TYPE OF SPARK PLUG, GAP TOO FAR APART, COIL, COIL PACK FAULTY.
2. T.P.S. CONTACTS DIRTY, WRONG ADJUSTED OR FAULTY.
3. THROTTLE SHAFT WORN, BUTTERFLY WORN ON THE EDGES, DIRTY THROTTLE BODY, AIR LEAK IN GENERAL.
4. AIR FLOW METER OUT OF CALIBRATION. (SEE CALIBRATION IN THE DATA POOL) |Trade-Secrets|
5. BRAKE POWER BOOSTER AIR LEAK, BOLT OR NUT LOOSE NEAR THE POWER BOOSTER HOSE CONNECTION ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD OR GASKET LEAK.
6. OXYGEN SENSOR FAULTY, NO GOOD EARTH, EXHAUST HAS NO GOOD EARTH.
7. WORN DISTRIBUTOR, OR WORN DISTRIBUTOR GEAR.
8. VACUUM ADVANCE NOT WORKING, SPOUT WIRE NOT CONNECTED, ALTERNATOR EARTH POOR, POWER TRANSISTOR FAULTY.
CAUSE: - CHECK ALL EARTHING POINTS ARE UNDER 0.03V.
IF ANY ARE OVER THIS, THERE MAY BE PROBLEMS WITH THE CARS FLAT SPOT ABOVE IDLE.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE EARTHS.
SYMPTOM - SPARK PLUGS FOULED, DUE TO OVERFUELING.
CAUSE: - FAULTY ECU.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE ECU.
PROBLEM - MISFIRING AND STALLING WHEN UNDER LOAD CONDITIONS. CAUSE: - ROTOR BUTTON HAS BURNT OUT.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE ROTOR BUTTON WITH THE GENUINE PART ONLY.
CAUSE:- INTEGRATION IGNITION ASSEMBLY (I.I.A.)
PICK-UP COIL WIRES INSULATION RUBBED THROUGH AND WERE INTERMITTENTLY SHORTING.
REMEDY - RE-INSULATE THE WIRES AND RE-ROUTE THEM.
| Shortcut back to Menu for more faults |
http://www.users.bigpond.com/INTERJE...20is%20hunting.
Good Luck!
Take a look....
The Engine idle is un-balanced and is hunting.
Follow this link for, CASE HISTORIES
THE SLOW RETURN TO IDLE PROBLEM MAY OCCUR IF BATTERY POWER IS DISCONNECTED FROM THE ECU, OR IF THE BATTERY HAS BEEN RECENTLY FLAT.
THE CAUSE OF THE SLOW TO RETURN TO IDLE IS THE EEC IV COMPUTER NOT KNOWING WHERE THE T.P.S. IS POSITIONED.
REMEDY - TO RE-ESTABLISH THE IDLE MEMORY INTO THE EEC IV COMPUTER DO THE FOLLOWING :
* START THE ENGINE AND ALLOW IT TO REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE.
* ALLOW THE ENGINE TO IDLE FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS AT OPERATING TEMPERATURE IN NEUTRAL POSITION, IF A MANUAL OR IN DRIVE IN AN AUTOMATIC.
*NOTE ALL ACCESSORIES MUST BE TURNED OFF WHILE IDLING.
Follow this link for, " KNOW HOW"
CAUSE: - A FAULTY CONNECTION AT THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL MOTOR D.C. IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS.
REMEDY - REPAIR THIS CONNECTION AND RETRY.
CAUSE: - THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL MOTOR slide IS RESPONSIBLE FOR THIS. (jammed, lifted by carbon build up etc.)
REMEDY - REPAIR THIS FAULT WITH THE INTER-JECT SERVICE ONLY!
CAUSE: - THE OPTICS MODULE AND PLATE IN THE DISTRIBUTOR IS DIRTY CAUSED BY A FAULTY SHAFT SEAL AND ENGINE BACK PRESSURE OILS ALL COMPONENTS INSIDE THE DISTRIBUTOR (NISSAN, VL, RODEO. ETC.)
CAUSE: - SOME ONE ALTERED THE THROTTLE BLADE STOP.
EA, EB, GAS CONVERSION FITTERS DO THIS, AND ALSO CAR OWNERS THEM SELF'S TO IMPROVE IDLING CHARACTERISTICS.
THIS CAUSES A CONFLICT BETWEEN OXYGEN SENSOR, ECU, AND THE IDLE STABILISER VALVE.
REMEDY - SET THE BUTTERFLY STOP TO CLOSED, DO A FULL INTERJECT SERVICE.
PROBLEM - ENGINE MISFIRING, ENGINE HUNTING AND INTERMITTENT FLAT SPOTS.
CAUSE: - FUEL PUMP.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP.
PROBLEM - FUEL STARVATION. CAUSE: - PLASTIC STRAINER AT THE FUEL PUMP INLET BLOCKED. REMEDY - BACK FLUSH AND CLEAN THE STRAINER WITH INTER-JECTRON.
| Shortcut back to Menu for more faults |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Engine has a very bad hesitation on acceleration.(flat spot)
Follow this link for, CASE HISTORIES
Most common faults as follow:
1. T.P.S SWITCH, TEMP SENSOR, DIRTY INJECTORS, FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR BELOW REQUIRED SETTING, AIR FLOW METER FAULTY, CARBON ON THE BACK OF THE VALVES IS THE MOST COMMON FAULT
REMEDY:- A FULL INTER-JECT SERVICE WITH THE LB-291/2F IS REQUIRED!
2. WATER IN FUEL, (it's very common), FUEL FILTER, FUEL PUMP, LEAKY FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR.
3. SPARK PLUG, LEADS, CONNECTORS, DISTRIBUTOR CAP, COIL PACK, IGNITION MODULE, IGNITION TIMING, WRONG FUEL WITH LOWER FLASH POINT AND OCTANE RATING.
4. VACUUM LEAKS ABOUT THE MANIFOLD AREA AND AIRFLOW METER, MAP SENSOR AREA,
5. SYSTEM IS NOT MATCHED PROPERLY TO A NEW OR SECOND HAND ENGINE, WRONG INJECTORS FITTED TO A LARGER ENGINE, STANDARD INJECTORS FITTED TO A TURBO ENGINE.
5. CAM BELT, VALVE TIMING, BENT OR SLIGHTLY BURNED VALVE, VALVE TO TIGHT, DISTRIBUTOR GEAR WORN, DISTRIBUTOR NEEDS REGRAPHING,
6. HIDDEN RESISTOR FITTED BY SOME ONE INTO THE TEMP CIRCUIT TO FOOL THE COMPUTER, SHORT OR DISCONNECTED AIR TEMP WIRING
7. THROTTLE BODY VERY DIRTY AND NOT CLOSING PROPERLY, ACCELERATOR CABLE FAULTY OR WRONG ADJUSTED, CRUSE CONTROL FAULTY.
8. WATER IN THE COMPUTER OR CORROSION ON THE CONNECTORS, VOLTAGE DROP FROM THE BATTERY, BAD EARTH.
9. ALTERNATOR DIODES FAULTY, TO MUCH AC CURRANT INTERFERING INTO THE DUTY CYCLE CURRENT OF THE IDLE STABILISER VALVE.
10. ECU RANDOM ACCESS MEMORY FAULTY, ECU NOT SET TO TPS LOCATION.
PROBLEM - INTERMITTENT NO SPARK. FUEL PUMP WORKING O.K.
CAUSE: - LOOSE EARTH CONNECTION ON THE RIGHT HAND STRUT TOWER.
REMEDY - REPAIR THE EARTH AND TIGHTEN.
CAUSE: - FAULTY HALL SENSOR IN DISTRIBUTOR.
REMEDY - REPLACE HALL DEVICE.
CAUSE: - INCORRECT ROUTING OF THE AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR WIRING CAN INTERFERE WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL THROTTLE LINKAGE.
REMEDY - RELOCATE THE WIRING AWAY FROM THE THROTTLE LINKAGE AND SECURE IT WELL AS SO IT WILL NOT AFFECT ANY OTHER MOVING PARTS OF THE ENGINE.
PROBLEM - STALLS WHEN ACCELERATOR IS USED. IDLES GOOD THOUGH.
CAUSE: - FAULTY THROTTLE VALVE SWITCH.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE THROTTLE VALVE SWITCH.
PROBLEM: - THE ENGINE WOULD START O.K. AND RUN AT IDLE O.K., BUT WHEN THE CARS ACCELERATOR WAS USED, IT WOULD NOT ACCELERATE.
CAUSE: - THE FUEL PUMP WAS FOUND TO BE FAULTY.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUEL PUMP.
PROBLEM - THE ENGINE WOULD START BAD. RUN AT IDLE O.K., BUT WHEN THE CARS ACCELERATOR WAS USED, IT WOULD NOT ACCELERATE.
CAUSE:- THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR WAS FOUND TO BE FAULTY. (LEAKING BADLY)
REMEDY - REPLACE THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR ONLY AFTER AN ATTEMPTED CLEANING PROCESS WITH INTER-JECTRON. IF NO GO REPLACE THE REGULATOR.
The Engine has a hesitation only just above idle by moving the accelerator slightly. (noticeable flat spot)
Follow this link for, CASE HISTORIES
Most common faults:-
1. FAULTY SPARK PLUG LEADS, LEADS ARCING ACROSS, IMPEDANCE TO HIGH, WRONG TYPE OF SPARK PLUG, GAP TOO FAR APART, COIL, COIL PACK FAULTY.
2. T.P.S. CONTACTS DIRTY, WRONG ADJUSTED OR FAULTY.
3. THROTTLE SHAFT WORN, BUTTERFLY WORN ON THE EDGES, DIRTY THROTTLE BODY, AIR LEAK IN GENERAL.
4. AIR FLOW METER OUT OF CALIBRATION. (SEE CALIBRATION IN THE DATA POOL) |Trade-Secrets|
5. BRAKE POWER BOOSTER AIR LEAK, BOLT OR NUT LOOSE NEAR THE POWER BOOSTER HOSE CONNECTION ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD OR GASKET LEAK.
6. OXYGEN SENSOR FAULTY, NO GOOD EARTH, EXHAUST HAS NO GOOD EARTH.
7. WORN DISTRIBUTOR, OR WORN DISTRIBUTOR GEAR.
8. VACUUM ADVANCE NOT WORKING, SPOUT WIRE NOT CONNECTED, ALTERNATOR EARTH POOR, POWER TRANSISTOR FAULTY.
CAUSE: - CHECK ALL EARTHING POINTS ARE UNDER 0.03V.
IF ANY ARE OVER THIS, THERE MAY BE PROBLEMS WITH THE CARS FLAT SPOT ABOVE IDLE.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE EARTHS.
SYMPTOM - SPARK PLUGS FOULED, DUE TO OVERFUELING.
CAUSE: - FAULTY ECU.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE ECU.
PROBLEM - MISFIRING AND STALLING WHEN UNDER LOAD CONDITIONS. CAUSE: - ROTOR BUTTON HAS BURNT OUT.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE ROTOR BUTTON WITH THE GENUINE PART ONLY.
CAUSE:- INTEGRATION IGNITION ASSEMBLY (I.I.A.)
PICK-UP COIL WIRES INSULATION RUBBED THROUGH AND WERE INTERMITTENTLY SHORTING.
REMEDY - RE-INSULATE THE WIRES AND RE-ROUTE THEM.
| Shortcut back to Menu for more faults |
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The Engine has a hesitation only just above idle by moving the accelerator slightly. (noticeable flat spot)
Follow this link for, CASE HISTORIES
Most common faults:-
1. FAULTY SPARK PLUG LEADS, LEADS ARCING ACROSS, IMPEDANCE TO HIGH, WRONG TYPE OF SPARK PLUG, GAP TOO FAR APART, COIL, COIL PACK FAULTY.
2. T.P.S. CONTACTS DIRTY, WRONG ADJUSTED OR FAULTY.
3. THROTTLE SHAFT WORN, BUTTERFLY WORN ON THE EDGES, DIRTY THROTTLE BODY, AIR LEAK IN GENERAL.
4. AIR FLOW METER OUT OF CALIBRATION. (SEE CALIBRATION IN THE DATA POOL) |Trade-Secrets|
5. BRAKE POWER BOOSTER AIR LEAK, BOLT OR NUT LOOSE NEAR THE POWER BOOSTER HOSE CONNECTION ON THE INTAKE MANIFOLD OR GASKET LEAK.
6. OXYGEN SENSOR FAULTY, NO GOOD EARTH, EXHAUST HAS NO GOOD EARTH.
7. WORN DISTRIBUTOR, OR WORN DISTRIBUTOR GEAR.
8. VACUUM ADVANCE NOT WORKING, SPOUT WIRE NOT CONNECTED, ALTERNATOR EARTH POOR, POWER TRANSISTOR FAULTY.
CAUSE: - CHECK ALL EARTHING POINTS ARE UNDER 0.03V.
IF ANY ARE OVER THIS, THERE MAY BE PROBLEMS WITH THE CARS FLAT SPOT ABOVE IDLE.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE EARTHS.
SYMPTOM - SPARK PLUGS FOULED, DUE TO OVERFUELING.
CAUSE: - FAULTY ECU.
REMEDY - REPAIR / REPLACE ECU.
PROBLEM - MISFIRING AND STALLING WHEN UNDER LOAD CONDITIONS. CAUSE: - ROTOR BUTTON HAS BURNT OUT.
REMEDY - REPLACE THE ROTOR BUTTON WITH THE GENUINE PART ONLY.
CAUSE:- INTEGRATION IGNITION ASSEMBLY (I.I.A.)
PICK-UP COIL WIRES INSULATION RUBBED THROUGH AND WERE INTERMITTENTLY SHORTING.
REMEDY - RE-INSULATE THE WIRES AND RE-ROUTE THEM.
| Shortcut back to Menu for more faults |
http://www.users.bigpond.com/INTERJE...20is%20hunting.
08-19-2006, 11:30 AM
#5
wow.. that was alot to read, i am gonna go buy the stuff and test them cause this feels real serious to me.... i feel like its affecting my gas milage slightly, i am getting 380 miles per tank wth 80% high drivin.... i think i will check the TPS while i am under there, because i have some hesitation when i increase acceleration at low RPMs.....
08-19-2006, 09:35 PM
#6
i got some new codes....
03 07 - Closed Loop Control
08 07 - EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit
09 01 - Front Right Htd 02 sensor heater
and i just changed both fron O2 sensors....someone please help.... and i dont know what the heck that first one means... help please
03 07 - Closed Loop Control
08 07 - EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit
09 01 - Front Right Htd 02 sensor heater
and i just changed both fron O2 sensors....someone please help.... and i dont know what the heck that first one means... help please
08-21-2006, 08:44 AM
#7
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=104931 (scroll down)
0307 & 0901 have to do with your O2 sensors (did you put in new ones or used ones? Did you plug the connector in tightly?)
0307 & 0901 have to do with your O2 sensors (did you put in new ones or used ones? Did you plug the connector in tightly?)
08-21-2006, 12:45 PM
#8
i bought both of em new from www.automedicsupply.com. i bought the walker band (universal).... what do i do now?
08-22-2006, 02:48 PM
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 301
You may be able to WD-40 the solenoid back to life if thats what the problem is. You can check it by connecting it across the battery with a couple of flying leads. If you hear/feel the solenoid click it's OK, if not, WD the cr@p out of it from all directions until it does.
I bought a new one but regretted it once I saw the old one.
I bought a new one but regretted it once I saw the old one.
11-21-2006, 03:46 PM
#17
I had the same symptoms 2 months ago. Jerking and rough idle, I popped the hood and i saw that my air intake hose was worn out and started developing cracks. The engine was gasping for air which caused the jerking. Check your intake hoses if you havent done so yet. I put in a new hose and all the symptoms went away.
03-31-2008, 07:10 PM
#26
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 20
my air intake hose is ripped on my 2000 and i'm having the exact same symptoms described above. I taped the rip and the problem is gone. I've been searching for a replacment but am having not luck. anyone know where i can find a replacment air intake hose for my 2000 max?
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