I will be changing my y pipe in a few weeks. I took a few pics of my nuts and bolts on the old y pipe. This is a pic of my exhaust manifold toward the catt.


Is it even possible to remove the nuts with all that rust even with alot of PB blaster or equivalent?

 

wd-40 ! ... works great... at work we always use those for those big a$$ concrete breaking machines

 

id use some lube on those nuts

 

is it that simple??? I though i have to take to exhaust shop for them to torch the nuts off.

So a DYI person should be able to take them off right??

 

if ur not a sissy - yes.. i saw it happen last week.... use some wd-40 on nuts...wait 5-10 minutes... and use the tools...its so much easier with the power tools...wish i had them..

 

You should be able to get those off if you have the correct tools. You will need ratches, extensions, and a special socket to screw in new manifold studs. I forget what size those nuts are. The whole stud might come out when you try unscrewing them. Use penetration oil. It will help a lot!

Buy new nuts and studs from the dealer.

 

does budget include new nuts ?..i heard they do but ...yea i'd also buy new nuts

they show all the tools u need here i guess : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/255278/3

 

am i the only one who was amused by the title of this thread anyway, mine look the same and i'm changing my ypipe soon. I was told by a few people that PB-blaster would make quick work of it.

 

damn..i jsut realized...i guess i got a clean mind

 

thats how mine looked at the cat, I tried everything, pblaster, wd40, nothing worked, stripped the nuts and even tried the bolt removers, no luck, so I just left the damn thing. doesnt matter anymore cause I just sold the car.

 

I'd go with the penerating lube and an impact gun/wrench........why??

becasue I would rather shock them off than gorilla-twist-torque them off. That is what's going to break them....torque

I used an impact on my 1986 Buick Grand National to get the D/S exhause manifold off without a problem.

Other than that, your nuts look fine/normal to me!

just my opinion

 

 

these studs everyone s referring too isnt too expensive right? I m guessing 1 dollar each?

 

one buck at the auto store ive got a few laying around for just such an emergency.....

 

All this talk about nuts, lube and penetration...what's wrong with you people ?

 

I might as well go ahead and replace my y-pipe. I am dropping the trnas tomorrow and also the center member will be out which gives perfect access to all the nuts, woohoo. But my nuts look all rusted just like yours. That the thing I am worried about breaking the nut off due to the rust.

 

no..............

 

No.

 

I sprayed mine with liquid wrench, let them sit for 10 minutes and just got a breaker bar on them and slowly applied torque. They all broke loose with no problems. Course you live up north so yours are prolly worse than mine were.

 

same here. dont feel like breaking any studs.

 

Laughed all the way through it.

 

lol could have thought about a better title for the thread i dont see any nuts in that picture......oh wait those nuts PB blaster is your freind. Make sure the socket you use fits the nut exact, if its even slightly to big you will strip it faster then flys on ****. give it a good shot of penetrating fluid let it sit for a bit, give it another shot and soak it in it. then attack it , just try not to strip it. If none of those work, oxy-acetylene torches are your freind!

 

it looks fine to me, just lube ur nuts up and it'll be nice and shiney

 

yours dont look too bad. When i replaced my exhaust system, the nuts and bolts were so rusted up by the resonator and cat, that we ended up having to just saw them off and use new ones all together. But yours dont look nearly as bad as mine did, so you shouldnt have much trouble.

 

show me your nuts.

 

soak it over night if u want DYI

 

For those that may run into an issue like this in the future I strongly suggest using AeroKroil from Kano Labs. Works much better than PB and WD-40 is almost usless in such situations. Also, when reattaching the new hardware, use a little copper or aluminum based antisieze lubricant.

 

LOL Nice title!

 

the title is the only reason that i read this thread, nuts, lube, penetration, and don't break any studs, also not comparing my nuts to yours

but the wd-40 sounds like a good idea!

 

 

anyone have part numbers for the nuts?