how bad are my nuts?
#1
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
You should be able to get those off if you have the correct tools. You will need ratches, extensions, and a special socket to screw in new manifold studs. I forget what size those nuts are. The whole stud might come out when you try unscrewing them. Use penetration oil. It will help a lot!
Buy new nuts and studs from the dealer.
Buy new nuts and studs from the dealer.
#7
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does budget include new nuts ?..i heard they do but ...yea i'd also buy new nuts
they show all the tools u need here i guess : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/255278/3
they show all the tools u need here i guess : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/255278/3
#9
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Originally Posted by 2pb
am i the only one who was amused by the title of this thread
anyway, mine look the same and i'm changing my ypipe soon. I was told by a few people that PB-blaster would make quick work of it.
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#10
thats how mine looked at the cat, I tried everything, pblaster, wd40, nothing worked, stripped the nuts and even tried the bolt removers, no luck, so I just left the damn thing. doesnt matter anymore cause I just sold the car.
#11
I'd go with the penerating lube and an impact gun/wrench........why??
becasue I would rather shock them off than gorilla-twist-torque them off. That is what's going to break them....torque
I used an impact on my 1986 Buick Grand National to get the D/S exhause manifold off without a problem.
Other than that, your nuts look fine/normal to me!
just my opinion
becasue I would rather shock them off than gorilla-twist-torque them off. That is what's going to break them....torque
I used an impact on my 1986 Buick Grand National to get the D/S exhause manifold off without a problem.
Other than that, your nuts look fine/normal to me!
just my opinion
#14
Originally Posted by zeeman
these studs everyone s referring too isnt too expensive right? I m guessing 1 dollar each?
#16
I might as well go ahead and replace my y-pipe. I am dropping the trnas tomorrow and also the center member will be out which gives perfect access to all the nuts, woohoo. But my nuts look all rusted just like yours. That the thing I am worried about breaking the nut off due to the rust.
#19
I sprayed mine with liquid wrench, let them sit for 10 minutes and just got a breaker bar on them and slowly applied torque. They all broke loose with no problems. Course you live up north so yours are prolly worse than mine were.
#20
Originally Posted by Mxrider52
I might as well go ahead and replace my y-pipe. I am dropping the trnas tomorrow and also the center member will be out which gives perfect access to all the nuts, woohoo. But my nuts look all rusted just like yours. That the thing I am worried about breaking the nut off due to the rust.
#22
lol could have thought about a better title for the thread
i dont see any nuts in that picture......oh wait those nuts
PB blaster is your freind. Make sure the socket you use fits the nut exact, if its even slightly to big you will strip it faster then flys on ****. give it a good shot of penetrating fluid let it sit for a bit, give it another shot and soak it in it. then attack it , just try not to strip it. If none of those work, oxy-acetylene torches are your freind!
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#24
yours dont look too bad. When i replaced my exhaust system, the nuts and bolts were so rusted up by the resonator and cat, that we ended up having to just saw them off and use new ones all together. But yours dont look nearly as bad as mine did, so you shouldnt have much trouble.
#27
For those that may run into an issue like this in the future I strongly suggest using AeroKroil from Kano Labs. Works much better than PB and WD-40 is almost usless in such situations. Also, when reattaching the new hardware, use a little copper or aluminum based antisieze lubricant.
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