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One Touch Sunroof Mod - Update

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Old Aug 27, 2006 | 05:25 PM
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One Touch Sunroof Mod - Update

So, in the "FAQ stickies" there's a link to instructions for making our sunroofs operate on touch open and closed:
One touch link on VQ Power

It bothered me that per these instructions that you have to "change the polarity of the sunroof motor" and "after you 'one touch' close it you will have to 'tilt' open and then closed before you can one touch open it again".

Determined to figure out a way around this, I finally did it. The trick is that you have to install two relays to accommodate the fact that the WC1000 wants to output +12V, and our sunroof controller wants a ground signal.

Basically you hook up one relay to take the +12V signal from the WC1000 for the OPEN command and make it actuate a relay that grounds the factory OPEN wire going into the sunroof module. You send the OPEN ground signal from the factory switch to the OPEN (-) trigger on the WC1000. The second relay is for the CLOSE function. I've implemented this on my own car and it works perfectly without needing to reverse polarity on the motor and without the need to hit TILT to reset the mechanism.

I just completed the mod today, and I need to make a neat schematic of what I did for you all to see. I'd like to post a schematic of what I did in the FAQ sticky when I'm done (not sure how to do this. I guess the Moderator just picks these up?). More to come...
Old Aug 27, 2006 | 05:44 PM
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This sounds really nice to have. gj!

EDIT: dumb question erased
Old Aug 27, 2006 | 05:47 PM
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I barely understood anything you said up there, but with the discovery and all that effort

: I'm keeping an eye for this schematic, I'm very interested in doing this
Old Aug 27, 2006 | 05:47 PM
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Nice Job!!!!
Old Aug 27, 2006 | 07:30 PM
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i'm totally looking forward to seeing this one...i've wanted this feature in my car since i got it, and in the one that i had before it
Old Aug 27, 2006 | 09:04 PM
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Here's the diagram of what I did (this is a Photoshopped FSM diagram):

You basically cut the GREEN and BROWN wires on the sunroof harness and run the appropriate switch ends to the WC1000. The other ends (the motor ends) go to the relays. The BLUE and GREEN wires from the WC1000 go to the relays and basically act to engergize them. When the relays energize they connect the GREEN or BROWN wires from the sunroof to ground.

It doesn't show in the diagram, but I ran all my ground wires together, put a ground lug on them and attached that to the bolt you can see next to the sunroof motor.

I also chose to power the WC1000 with the sunroof line instead of the dome light power because I don't intend to hook the sunroof to an alarm where I would need constant power to open the sunroof.

I did all my wiring with the motor out of the car by removing the three screws on the motor assembly. You have to cut the blue ground wire and disconnect the red power wire to get the motor out, but it was much easier to connect everything on a bench rather than in the car.

I'm sure this isn't a perfect description, so let me know if you have any questions.
Old Aug 27, 2006 | 10:08 PM
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i just keep wondering why nissan didnt have the one touch system out in the first place.. who really wants their sunroof HALF open?
Old Aug 28, 2006 | 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by nguyen925
i just keep wondering why nissan didnt have the one touch system out in the first place.. who really wants their sunroof HALF open?
maybe you want to trap someones' head in it without killing them
Old Aug 28, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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Awesome, very good discovery. I'd really like to do this, holding my arm up there for the 10 seconds when it should be shifting gets annoying.

This definitely deserves a sticky, although the descriptions are still a bit confusing for me.
Old Aug 28, 2006 | 08:17 PM
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Part 1 - Motor Assembly Removal

1. Items to buy:
[1] AutoLoc WC1000
[2] 12V Relays (Radio Shack 275-226 or equivalent)
[8] Female 1/4” crimp connectors (22-18 ga “red”)
[7] Union crimp connectors (22-18 ga “red”) – or solder and shrink tube if you’ve got it
[1] Grounding lug with a .250 hole (22-18 ga “red”)
[1] Crimp-on wire splice - or solder and shrink tube if you've got it
[10 ft] 20-16 ga wire (old speaker wire will work fine)

2. Remove overhead light/sunroof switch panel by prying on the passenger’s side edge (it will come out pretty easily. Disconnect the two plugs on the panel (the brown one goes to the switches and the white one goes to the light)

3. Slide open the sunroof shade and pull down on the front edge of the headliner in the sunroof opening. It is Velcroed to the roof of the car in about 4 places on that edge. Don’t pull too hard or you might crease your headliner.

4. Reach a pair of wire cutters in between the headliner and the roof of your car on the driver’s side and cut the BLUE wire as close to the nut it is attached to (as far to the driver’s side) as possible. This is the ground wire for your sunroof.

5. Reach your hand in between the headliner and the roof of your car on the driver’s side and pull on the connector that is attached to the front window beam. The goal is to disconnect the RED wire plug that goes to the sunroof motor in-tact (don’t damage the plug). Pulling the connector off the window beam will leave a small piece of plastic that is snapped onto the plug still attached to the window beam. Don’t worry about it. If the loose plug rattles around later, you can put some double-stick foam tape on it and stick the connector to the headliner or the roof, or you can just wrap foam around it. I could barely get to it, but it will come loose. Disconnect the YELLOW/RED STRIPE wire plug (male end) from the RED wire plug (female end).

6. Unscrew the three Phillips head screws that you see immediately through the map light/sunroof switch hole. This will allow you to remove the sunroof motor assembly. There are two short screws and one long screw. On the back side of the motor assembly where the long screw was there is a white plastic spacer. Keep track of all these parts; you will need them when you reinstall the motor.

7. To remove the motor assembly, pull down about ½ to ¾ of an inch and then slide the assembly to the passenger’s side and then pull it out. Pay attention to where the siring harness is when you are working the motor out because the metal supports in there are sharp and can cut the wires.

Now you’ve got the motor assembly out and you can begin the task of wiring.
Old Aug 28, 2006 | 08:59 PM
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Part 2 - Wiring

8. On the motor assembly, cut a slit about 2” long in the black tube that is covering the brown plugged harness that was connected to the sunroof switch panel. Cut the slit in the middle of the tube so you have some wire to work with.

9. Pull the black tube away from the wires and separate the wires. Cut the GREEN and BROWN wires in this harness and strip all 4 ends about ¼ inch for the crimp unions, or ½ inch for the solder/shrink wrap (I’ll only describe the crimp method from here out because I will assume that if you’re soldering you don’t need instructions on how to do it). Cut 2 individual one foot long pieces of wire and crimp the ends of each of these wires to the ends of the GREEN and BROWN wire ends that go into the motor assembly. On the other ends of these 2 wires, strip and crimp on 2 of the female ¼ inch crimp connectors. Connect each of these plugs to the “87” leg on each of the relays. Label the relay that is connected to the BROWN wire as “OPEN” and the relay that is connected to the GREEN wire as “CLOSE”. I double-stick taped the relays together to make handling them easier.

10. On the ends of the GREEN and BROWN wires that go into brown plug crimp on unions to the following wires from the WC1000 harness: GREEN goes to the WHITE/BLUE STRIPE wire and BROWN goes to the GRAY wire.

11. Next, strip and crimp on female connectors on to the BLUE and GREEN wires from the WC1000. Plug the BLUE wire into the “85” terminal of the OPEN relay. Plug the GREEN wire into the “85” terminal of the CLOSE relay.

Everything is now connected except for the ground wires and the power wire.

12. Splice (using the crimp splice or solder) the RED fused wire on the WC1000 into the large RED wire (with the gray plug) on the sunroof motor assembly. You will want to put the splice close to the motor assembly so you will have room to move the WC1000 around when putting it all back in the car.

13. Cut two pieces of wire about 2.5 inches long and two pieces 12 inches long. These will be ground wires, so if you’ve got black wire, now’s the time to use it. Strip both ends of all 4 wires. Crimp female connectors on to the ends of both 2.5 inch pieces. Hold the end of one 2.5 inch wire even with and side-by-side with one of the 12 inch wires and twist the ends together. Put this twisted end into a female connector and crimp. Repeat this process for the other two wires. Hold the remaining stripped ends of the 12 inch wires side-by-side and twist them together. Insert this end into a union connector and crimp. Cut another 12 inch wire and strip and insert it into the other end of this union. Plug the 4 female connectors into the 4 remaining terminals on the relays. Strip the end of the BLUE wire from the sunroof relay and hold it side-by-side with the ground wire you just made and twist them together. Crimp the last union onto this twisted end, cut another 12 inches of wire, strip both ends and crimp one end to the union and the other end to the grounding lug.

You can tie all the wires together to make it look neat if you want. Now you are ready to reinstall the motor back into the car.
Old Aug 28, 2006 | 09:15 PM
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Part 3 - Final Assembly

14. Plug the WC1000 onto its harness plug (if you haven’t already)

15. Remove the one nut that you can see through the map light/sunroof switch hole (10mm). Place the grounding lug over this stud and replace the nut. Torque it snug.

16. Shove the relays and the WC1000 through the map light/sunroof switch hole toward the passenger’s side. There’s plenty of room over there. Try to keep the fuse close to the map light/sunroof switch hole so you can access it later if the fuse ever blows.

17. Push the RED power wire plug through the hole over toward the driver’s side first. It’s not impossible to get it over there later, but it’s a lot easier to do it before putting the motor in.

18. Stick the motor back in the way it came out. Put the motor end in first and then position it so that the gear goes in the hole and the 3 screw holes line up. Put the white plastic spacer back in on top of the motor and hold it in place with the long screw. Give it a wiggle so that it spins around and seat correctly. Push the motor back into place with hand pressure until it is seated and reinstall the two short screws.

19. Pull down the head liner again on the driver’s side and do your best to plug the RED wire plug back into the YELLOW/RED STRIPE plug. Plug the map light/sunroof switch back into the brown and white plugs. Pop the map light/sunroof switch panel back in.

Turn your key and flip the switch. It should be one touch!
Old Aug 28, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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Maybe that's too wordy? I hope it's right (I think it is). Please, anyone who notices an error, let me know.
Old Sep 3, 2006 | 05:46 AM
  #14  
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sweet! sounds fairly easy...and im one youde call "electrically challenged"

if anyone else does this and it works, let me know! cause i wanna do it, but if i F it up i wont beable to fix it cause im dumb. lol
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