View Poll Results: Which Tranny fluid should I get on my 5spd mAx SE?
Amsoil
30
40.54%
Redline MT-90
37
50.00%
Stock; you don't need the other crap...
7
9.46%
Voters: 74. You may not vote on this poll
Amsoil VS Redline MT-90
#41
Originally Posted by n2o_matt
how do these synthetics compare to the normal gear oil?
I went to autozone and all i could find for GL4 was a bottle of Coastal 75w90 that says API - GL5 GL4 and GL3. How can it be all three? Think its safe?
I went to autozone and all i could find for GL4 was a bottle of Coastal 75w90 that says API - GL5 GL4 and GL3. How can it be all three? Think its safe?
........nope
GL-4only
#43
Originally Posted by n2o_matt
how do these synthetics compare to the normal gear oil?
I went to autozone and all i could find for GL4 was a bottle of Coastal 75w90 that says API - GL5 GL4 and GL3. How can it be all three? Think its safe?
I went to autozone and all i could find for GL4 was a bottle of Coastal 75w90 that says API - GL5 GL4 and GL3. How can it be all three? Think its safe?
The issue (if you think it matters to you) is that EP additives cost you a little bit in terms of bearing life, and affect how well the synchros synchronize. In some cases, the type and quantity of EP additives will even chemically attack the synchros. If you use a GL-5, look for a label that says 'yellow metal friendly' or 'safe for brass parts', which means the EP additives in that oil are not very corrosive.
So it's a tradeoff - a judgment call. I use MT-90, which is a GL-4 but not GL-5. Only this and an Amsoil are GL4/non-GL5, to my knowledge, so yes we're talking synthetic prices.
This should in theory be best for shifting, and the extra gear wear is not a big deal to me since Maxima trannys don't really need EP additives at a GL-5 level. But I say in theory since really this is a pretty small effect IME, if you can find it at all. Things like the condition of the tranny hard parts (which comes from wear and abuse), shifter bushing, etc have much more to do with it. If you don't feel like spending the money for the true GL-4 IMHO using a brass-friendly GL-5 is just fine.
Dave
#44
Synthetic gear oil > normal ("dino") gear oil.
I've only used stock and Amsoil MTG, but I know the Amsoil was much much much better. It shifted more smoothly and worked way better in winter. I will be trying MT-90 soon.
Keep in mind, sometimes different trannies like different fluid. Amsoil and Redline both make top-of-the-line products that are way better than stock, but if you're looking for the best there's no way to know until you try both for a while.
FWIW, most Maximas seem to like Amsoil MTG better than Redline MT-90, but a few people say MT-90 felt better.
I've only used stock and Amsoil MTG, but I know the Amsoil was much much much better. It shifted more smoothly and worked way better in winter. I will be trying MT-90 soon.
Keep in mind, sometimes different trannies like different fluid. Amsoil and Redline both make top-of-the-line products that are way better than stock, but if you're looking for the best there's no way to know until you try both for a while.
FWIW, most Maximas seem to like Amsoil MTG better than Redline MT-90, but a few people say MT-90 felt better.
#47
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
The big difference between GL3, 4, and 5 is the amount and type of EP additives. EP additives really protect the gears against wear, and the higher the GL number the more EP additives it has. So I think nearly all GL-5s also qualify as GL4 and GL3.
The issue (if you think it matters to you) is that EP additives cost you a little bit in terms of bearing life, and affect how well the synchros synchronize. In some cases, the type and quantity of EP additives will even chemically attack the synchros. If you use a GL-5, look for a label that says 'yellow metal friendly' or 'safe for brass parts', which means the EP additives in that oil are not very corrosive.
So it's a tradeoff - a judgment call. I use MT-90, which is a GL-4 but not GL-5. Only this and an Amsoil are GL4/non-GL5, to my knowledge, so yes we're talking synthetic prices.
This should in theory be best for shifting, and the extra gear wear is not a big deal to me since Maxima trannys don't really need EP additives at a GL-5 level. But I say in theory since really this is a pretty small effect IME, if you can find it at all. Things like the condition of the tranny hard parts (which comes from wear and abuse), shifter bushing, etc have much more to do with it. If you don't feel like spending the money for the true GL-4 IMHO using a brass-friendly GL-5 is just fine.
Dave
The issue (if you think it matters to you) is that EP additives cost you a little bit in terms of bearing life, and affect how well the synchros synchronize. In some cases, the type and quantity of EP additives will even chemically attack the synchros. If you use a GL-5, look for a label that says 'yellow metal friendly' or 'safe for brass parts', which means the EP additives in that oil are not very corrosive.
So it's a tradeoff - a judgment call. I use MT-90, which is a GL-4 but not GL-5. Only this and an Amsoil are GL4/non-GL5, to my knowledge, so yes we're talking synthetic prices.
This should in theory be best for shifting, and the extra gear wear is not a big deal to me since Maxima trannys don't really need EP additives at a GL-5 level. But I say in theory since really this is a pretty small effect IME, if you can find it at all. Things like the condition of the tranny hard parts (which comes from wear and abuse), shifter bushing, etc have much more to do with it. If you don't feel like spending the money for the true GL-4 IMHO using a brass-friendly GL-5 is just fine.
Dave
FWIW I put MT-90 in mine after the rebuild (damn crappy bearing issue) a few years ago. I must admit, it shifts way better than the dino oil that was in there, in both winter & summer.
I concur with others that Redline or Amsoli, you can't go wrong.
#49
Originally Posted by 95bluse
I agree...GL-5 will wear away the brass used in the 4th gen. It's a big no-no to use GL-5 in our trannies!
The corrosive GL-5s typically are designed for maximum protection of hypoid (RWD) differential gears. They usually state they are not for use in synchromeshed transmissions (which we have). Mobil1 Synthetic 75w-90 GL-5 is one such example.
The cheap GL-5s remain an unknown quantity.
Dave
#50
Originally Posted by dgeesaman
It's not that simple. There are different chemicals that can be put in to make a GL-5 level EP addtive package. Some are yellow-metal corrosive, some are not. Royal Purple for example doesn't make a GL-4 only gear oil, but their GL-5 is safe for synchros.
The corrosive GL-5s typically are designed for maximum protection of hypoid (RWD) differential gears. They usually state they are not for use in synchromeshed transmissions (which we have). Mobil1 Synthetic 75w-90 GL-5 is one such example.
The cheap GL-5s remain an unknown quantity.
Dave
The corrosive GL-5s typically are designed for maximum protection of hypoid (RWD) differential gears. They usually state they are not for use in synchromeshed transmissions (which we have). Mobil1 Synthetic 75w-90 GL-5 is one such example.
The cheap GL-5s remain an unknown quantity.
Dave
#51
Originally Posted by 95bluse
But is Royal Purple fully synthetic? as in group IV vs group III? For years they've been charging ridiculous prices for semi-synthetic oil. I'd never touch that stuff.
Dave
#52
Originally Posted by 95bluse
But is Royal Purple fully synthetic? as in group IV vs group III? For years they've been charging ridiculous prices for semi-synthetic oil. I'd never touch that stuff.
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