Seafoam + Maxima = FTW?
#1
Seafoam + Maxima = FTW?
My car has 82.5K miles on it and previous owner has no idea what an engine is lol...
I recently learned about Seafoam and the magical powers it has and was wondering whether it'd be worth trying to put some in my car.
Should I:
Just dump it into my gas tank and use it as if it was a fuel treatment solution?
Or:
Should I attempt and have it sucked up by the vacuum lines, then spray some on the throttle body and then dump the rest in the gas tank?
If the latter - does someone have a nice tutorial on how to do it?
I recently learned about Seafoam and the magical powers it has and was wondering whether it'd be worth trying to put some in my car.
Should I:
Just dump it into my gas tank and use it as if it was a fuel treatment solution?
Or:
Should I attempt and have it sucked up by the vacuum lines, then spray some on the throttle body and then dump the rest in the gas tank?
If the latter - does someone have a nice tutorial on how to do it?
#4
!!!!get ready for the FLAMES!!!!
if you really wanna do it, w/ around 1/4 tank of gas put 1/2 can of Seafoam, then run the other 1/2 can of Seafoam through the brakebooster hose with the engine running. When the can is empty, shut the car off and let sit for 10-15 min, then start and let run until smoke stops, then go drive it kinda hard to clean it out and you're done. Although, I do have my doubts about the brakebooster connection feeding all the cylinders, it seems to me it would more or less only feed like the last 2 or 3 on the intake, becasue the air is not going to flow back up the intake into the first couple, but I do not know of a better spot as of right now. I was going to further investigate this when I put on my knocksensor this weekend, possibly looking into on of the EGR hoses that go into the intake manifold near the top of the throttlebody, but I don;t know if the car will run with this line unplugged...
there are many different ways to do it and 5 other people will probably tell you 5 different ways, but this works and is easy. just don't expect it to make a durastic difference like a y-pipe or anything...
if you really wanna do it, w/ around 1/4 tank of gas put 1/2 can of Seafoam, then run the other 1/2 can of Seafoam through the brakebooster hose with the engine running. When the can is empty, shut the car off and let sit for 10-15 min, then start and let run until smoke stops, then go drive it kinda hard to clean it out and you're done. Although, I do have my doubts about the brakebooster connection feeding all the cylinders, it seems to me it would more or less only feed like the last 2 or 3 on the intake, becasue the air is not going to flow back up the intake into the first couple, but I do not know of a better spot as of right now. I was going to further investigate this when I put on my knocksensor this weekend, possibly looking into on of the EGR hoses that go into the intake manifold near the top of the throttlebody, but I don;t know if the car will run with this line unplugged...
there are many different ways to do it and 5 other people will probably tell you 5 different ways, but this works and is easy. just don't expect it to make a durastic difference like a y-pipe or anything...
#5
Originally Posted by ComradeJew
considering the fact that i can't search -
#12
#17
When I did it for the first time I thought I wasn't getting any smoke. I fed through the brake booster line. Let it sit for 30min. Turned it back on. My first surprise was that it started right up. Everything I read said it would struggle to get going at first. So I turned it on and only some really light gray barely visible smoke came out of exhaust. I let it sit for a couple minutes.
Then I decided to drive around for a bit so I backed out of the driveway went about 100 feet. THEN THE SMOKE STARTED. If I was looking at it from someone else's perspective I would have thought the car was on fire. It was pretty crazy. So I drove around, the smoke lasted about 10 minutes and then went away.
I think I did about a 1/4 through the BB line. Didn't put any in the gas.
Then I decided to drive around for a bit so I backed out of the driveway went about 100 feet. THEN THE SMOKE STARTED. If I was looking at it from someone else's perspective I would have thought the car was on fire. It was pretty crazy. So I drove around, the smoke lasted about 10 minutes and then went away.
I think I did about a 1/4 through the BB line. Didn't put any in the gas.
#20
Originally Posted by nismology
Snake oil...
Forget Seafoam. Deep Creep it, instead! (Click here for video)
#22
Why would anyone want to put Sea Foam in their engine?
Originally Posted by Cdg2125
yeah thats a good video. I saw that a while back but couldnt find it lately. Thanks for reposting it.
#25
Originally Posted by ComradeJew
Holy, Mother, of, God.
I cannot believe I have never done this... the difference is like night and day... wow.
I cannot believe I have never done this... the difference is like night and day... wow.
How much seafoam did you use and where (how much in the brake booster line and gas tank) ?
#27
SeaFoam can restore a nearly "junk" engine to nearly new if you know how to use it.
I just took a Saturn inline 4 with 220k miles on it that was missing so bad and making so much noise that it was literally like an aggressively cammed v8 with a broken rod on loose engine mounts .... AND buring A LOT of oil and blowing A LOT of it out the exhaust constantly ....
.....and after SeaFoam in the crank case, gas tank and into the cylinder chambers via vacuum line on the intake manifold and via spark plug valley while I had the plugs out .... plus .... SHORTLY AFTER the SeaFoam process ... plugs, wires, EGR cleaning with carb cleaner, fuel filter, oil filter and switch to synthetic oil with Engine Restore additive (which I have plenty of Compression Test data on with excellent results and which is a fluid that will flow well in the engine and work well with syn) .... THE ENGINE NOW RUNS LIKE NEW.
A VAST DIFFERENCE was seen in power, engine rev speed, engine operating smoothness, throttle modulation, mpg, emissions and maybe something I forgot. Fantastic. This is definitely largely attributed to the SeaFoam cleaning process. Much of the evidence of cleaning was found with the large pitch black circle of crap that was left on the ground behind the tail pipe .... after all the smoke cleared. There is also no longer any visible anything coming out the tail pipe under ANY acceleration/rev range. Clean.
You may also enjoy my comments and data on the crap they call Lucas Oil Stabilizer and the wonders of Engine Restore .... along with more praise for SeaFoam ... here .... http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...1&postcount=72 .
Here's what I did with the Saturn and will be doing to the VG30E Maxima soon:
I'll add about 1/3 a can of SeaFoam into the crank case, 1/3-1/2 a can into the gas tank, and will use 1/3 of a can "per cycle" to SLOWLY suck it in through the intake manifold ( so it can get into the piston chambers ) with the engine running by some random vacuum access line I haven't decided on yet (anything that will provide good suction into the intake manifold and be large enough to accomodate the fluid - like maybe the PCV line on the manifold side). I'll then cut the engine off, let it sit for a 15 minutes or so, turn on the engine (which sometimes requires a few tries and some pressing of the throttle {"gas pedal"}) and keep revving it for as long as you have too until there aren't clouds of smoke and chunks of carbon/various deposits of gunk being spit out your tailpipe/exhaust and the engine is idling better and cleaner on it's own (which may take 5-15 minutes depending on how dirty the engine internals are/were). Then, I repeat the "cycle" and, again, suck 1/3 of can into the intake manifold, let it sit for 15 minutes, do the revving etc. I do this for a few cycles until it seems I have cleaned things out really well.
Next I'll pull the plugs/wires, dry up the plug valleys, inspect for any valve cover gasket leaks (especially if the valleys are full of oil ), replace the valve cover gaskets if necessary (hopefully this won't be necessary ), use a syringe to squirt a little bit (1/8-1/4 can MAX - evenly dispersed onto each cylinder/into each plug valley) of SeaFoam into the plug valleys so it'll get directly to the pistons, get my plugs and wires prepped with Dialectric Grease and Anti Seize, install the plugs and wires, fire the sucker up and add SeaFoam to the gas tank if I feel like it could use some more and drive it around for a bit and see if the miss is gone ... which it will likely/hopefully be.
** Valve Cover gaskets can leak, causing oil to fill the spark plug valleys which can flood spark and fill the wire boot to foul up the wire to plug connection, which can cause mising too and which will only be fixed by drying everything up and replacing the gasket and torquing everything down correctly.
Somewhere in the process (probably when the plugs/wires are out/off), I'll probably pull the EGR and clean everything up with some towels, toothbrush, q-tips and some Carb Cleaner and reinstall it.
Finally, I'll change the oil/filter and add some syn ... probably 10w30 or40 or maybe even 15w50 Mobil 1 Synthetic ... and some Engine Restore ... depending on how I think it is running after the work.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....60#post5261060
Good luck!
I just took a Saturn inline 4 with 220k miles on it that was missing so bad and making so much noise that it was literally like an aggressively cammed v8 with a broken rod on loose engine mounts .... AND buring A LOT of oil and blowing A LOT of it out the exhaust constantly ....
.....and after SeaFoam in the crank case, gas tank and into the cylinder chambers via vacuum line on the intake manifold and via spark plug valley while I had the plugs out .... plus .... SHORTLY AFTER the SeaFoam process ... plugs, wires, EGR cleaning with carb cleaner, fuel filter, oil filter and switch to synthetic oil with Engine Restore additive (which I have plenty of Compression Test data on with excellent results and which is a fluid that will flow well in the engine and work well with syn) .... THE ENGINE NOW RUNS LIKE NEW.
A VAST DIFFERENCE was seen in power, engine rev speed, engine operating smoothness, throttle modulation, mpg, emissions and maybe something I forgot. Fantastic. This is definitely largely attributed to the SeaFoam cleaning process. Much of the evidence of cleaning was found with the large pitch black circle of crap that was left on the ground behind the tail pipe .... after all the smoke cleared. There is also no longer any visible anything coming out the tail pipe under ANY acceleration/rev range. Clean.
You may also enjoy my comments and data on the crap they call Lucas Oil Stabilizer and the wonders of Engine Restore .... along with more praise for SeaFoam ... here .... http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...1&postcount=72 .
Here's what I did with the Saturn and will be doing to the VG30E Maxima soon:
I'll add about 1/3 a can of SeaFoam into the crank case, 1/3-1/2 a can into the gas tank, and will use 1/3 of a can "per cycle" to SLOWLY suck it in through the intake manifold ( so it can get into the piston chambers ) with the engine running by some random vacuum access line I haven't decided on yet (anything that will provide good suction into the intake manifold and be large enough to accomodate the fluid - like maybe the PCV line on the manifold side). I'll then cut the engine off, let it sit for a 15 minutes or so, turn on the engine (which sometimes requires a few tries and some pressing of the throttle {"gas pedal"}) and keep revving it for as long as you have too until there aren't clouds of smoke and chunks of carbon/various deposits of gunk being spit out your tailpipe/exhaust and the engine is idling better and cleaner on it's own (which may take 5-15 minutes depending on how dirty the engine internals are/were). Then, I repeat the "cycle" and, again, suck 1/3 of can into the intake manifold, let it sit for 15 minutes, do the revving etc. I do this for a few cycles until it seems I have cleaned things out really well.
Next I'll pull the plugs/wires, dry up the plug valleys, inspect for any valve cover gasket leaks (especially if the valleys are full of oil ), replace the valve cover gaskets if necessary (hopefully this won't be necessary ), use a syringe to squirt a little bit (1/8-1/4 can MAX - evenly dispersed onto each cylinder/into each plug valley) of SeaFoam into the plug valleys so it'll get directly to the pistons, get my plugs and wires prepped with Dialectric Grease and Anti Seize, install the plugs and wires, fire the sucker up and add SeaFoam to the gas tank if I feel like it could use some more and drive it around for a bit and see if the miss is gone ... which it will likely/hopefully be.
** Valve Cover gaskets can leak, causing oil to fill the spark plug valleys which can flood spark and fill the wire boot to foul up the wire to plug connection, which can cause mising too and which will only be fixed by drying everything up and replacing the gasket and torquing everything down correctly.
Somewhere in the process (probably when the plugs/wires are out/off), I'll probably pull the EGR and clean everything up with some towels, toothbrush, q-tips and some Carb Cleaner and reinstall it.
Finally, I'll change the oil/filter and add some syn ... probably 10w30 or40 or maybe even 15w50 Mobil 1 Synthetic ... and some Engine Restore ... depending on how I think it is running after the work.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....60#post5261060
Good luck!
#29
BTW, for use by vacuum into the engine, I pour SeaFoam into a large measuring glass and then I use some vacuum hose ( that you can buy for cheap from any auto parts store ) to lengthen any vacuum lines I am using from the intake manifold and suck it into the engine in very gradual amounts.
I NEVER use more than about 1/3 of a can at a time before I let the engine sit, turned off, for about 15 minutes ... start it up and burn it all up/spit it all out the tail pipe along with all the carbon and various sludge/dirty deposits. I may do this multiple times depending on what the condition of the engine is.
I NEVER use more than about 1/3 of a can at a time before I let the engine sit, turned off, for about 15 minutes ... start it up and burn it all up/spit it all out the tail pipe along with all the carbon and various sludge/dirty deposits. I may do this multiple times depending on what the condition of the engine is.
#32
Originally Posted by shadyonedeath
Is Seafoam the Faster version of Auto-RX?
Or are they apples and oranges?
Or are they apples and oranges?
SeaFoam works fantastically if you use it right. No need to use anything else or to be concerned with other comparisons IMO.
#33
Originally Posted by shadyonedeath
Is Seafoam the Faster version of Auto-RX?
Or are they apples and oranges?
Or are they apples and oranges?
I don't care for seafoam because there are better dedicated crankcase cleaners (Auto-RX) and better dedicated fuel systems cleaners (BGK44, Techron fuel/injector cleaner). I've used it and in my experience, seafoam is just a smoke show and (in my case) o2 sensor killer.
#34
Seafoam can kill O2 sensors if there is so much carbon build up that it will just cover/damage them. I have heard that if it is the case that your O2 sensors are working their ways out the doors then this will only promote it.
There are also reports of excessive carbon build up knocking loose and clogging/blocking up EGR.
I have also read that if a chunk of carbon decides to come out then it may get caught in your Cat Conv.
I ran it and had no problems.
There are also reports of excessive carbon build up knocking loose and clogging/blocking up EGR.
I have also read that if a chunk of carbon decides to come out then it may get caught in your Cat Conv.
I ran it and had no problems.
#35
Originally Posted by ComradeJew
Holy, Mother, of, God.
I cannot believe I have never done this... the difference is like night and day... wow.
I cannot believe I have never done this... the difference is like night and day... wow.
I've got so many great comeback lines with this one, it's nearly criminal!
#36
As stated, there are better fuel system products than Seafoam. Seafoam used through the brake booster hose will clean the intake manifold.
Auto-RX is noted for cleaning the crankcase and ring packs. I have used the product and endorse it.
I have never used Seafoam and question whether I ever will.
Auto-RX is noted for cleaning the crankcase and ring packs. I have used the product and endorse it.
I have never used Seafoam and question whether I ever will.
#37
Originally Posted by TempMaxMan
I don't know. I've never tried any other internal cleaning products except for some fuel injector cleaner ... which I now just use SeaFoam in place of.
SeaFoam works fantastically if you use it right. No need to use anything else or to be concerned with other comparisons IMO.
SeaFoam works fantastically if you use it right. No need to use anything else or to be concerned with other comparisons IMO.
Has anyone ever found any documented scientific tests that actually show how gas additives can damage O2 sensors? I want evidence, and not theory.
Otherwise, my take on the O2 sensor story is that it may be one of the many. self-perpetuating rumors we hear about additives in general.
There are two major schools of thought with respect to additives:
1. One says, "Maintain your car the way the manufacturer intended it, and do not add anything to it that is not specifically recommended by the manufacturer."
2. Another says, "Additives are everywhere -- in the oil we put in our crankcases and in the gas we put in our tanks. So, if we find an additive that can help our cars without hurting it (according to the thousands of users who have used it in the past without adverse consequences), then what is the big deal?"
I have repeatedly heard this knock on gas additives:
"If your O2 sensors are fine, then the additive will not harm them, BUT, if they are on the way out (whatever that means), then additives will hasten their demise."
My question is this: "Why should we continue to operate our highly-sensitive machines using components on the verge of failure? Other than postponing the inevitable cost of replacement, what else is there to gain by using suboptimal parts?
Seems to me, given the huge role that O2 sensors play in maintaining fuel efficiency, we would be better off, financially. in the long run if we were to replace a somewhat sick O2 sensor now rather than later.
As I learned from a prior thread, O2 sensors can start to go bad without any warning from the CEL. Now, the concerned driver could get them checked with a state-of-the-art OBD-II scanner BEFORE he or she decides to use any additives. Yet, if the results reveal an O2 sensor that is not up to spec, I think that the driver has a bigger decision to make than to just not use any additives.
IMHO, additives are a little like drugs. They should be used to cure a specific problem, and not just to get a "performance high" (if that makes any sense).
#38
Originally Posted by scrhale
Seafoam can kill O2 sensors if there is so much carbon build up that it will just cover/damage them. I have heard that if it is the case that your O2 sensors are working their ways out the doors then this will only promote it.
There are also reports of excessive carbon build up knocking loose and clogging/blocking up EGR.
I have also read that if a chunk of carbon decides to come out then it may get caught in your Cat Conv.
I ran it and had no problems.
There are also reports of excessive carbon build up knocking loose and clogging/blocking up EGR.
I have also read that if a chunk of carbon decides to come out then it may get caught in your Cat Conv.
I ran it and had no problems.
As I described in my post, I suggest ... and practice ... that after using SeaFoam .... the EGR should be removed and cleaned with Carb Cleaner or Throttle Body Cleaner etc ... along with any of the EGR piping/hoses you can get to.
Yes, it is logical that a Catalytic Converter could get clogged thanks to SeaFoam doing a good job at cleaning. I'd rather have a clogged cat than such a dirty engine. I've never clogged a cat because of SeaFoam, but if I did I'd pull it off and clean it or get a new cat and be happy about things. Also, if one wanted, they could remove pre cat exhaust ... and if they had a turbo they could remove the turbo .... prior to using SeaFoam to be sure to avoid clogging issues. Still better than taking the engine apart to clean it.
#39
Originally Posted by Bobo
As stated, there are better fuel system products than Seafoam.
Originally Posted by Bobo
Seafoam used through the brake booster hose will clean the intake manifold.
As I previously described in detail, I also use SeaFoam in the crankcase and in the gas tank ... with excellent results.
Originally Posted by Bobo
Auto-RX is noted for cleaning the crankcase and ring packs. I have used the product and endorse it.
I have used SeaFoam in the cankcase, in the spark plug valleys, in a vacuum line into the intake manifold into the engine and in the gas tank .... with extraordinary results: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...1&postcount=27 . I endorse it.
Originally Posted by Bobo
I have never used Seafoam and question whether I ever will.
Seems like we may both have a good product and find no need to use the other.
#40
I strongly doubt that you would get much support for your findings on BITOG.
Originally Posted by TempMaxMan
That very well may be the case. But, for me, SeaFoam has provided astounding results to date so I have no desire to spend time and money researching other products and experimenting with them. I'll stick to what works. If it causes problems, I'll take appropriate action.
SeaFoam used through ANY vacuum line into the intake manifold will clean whatever it touches and has ebnough time and strength to clean ... which would be everything in the flow path ... which would be intake manifold, runners, cylinders, cylinder walls ... injectors and spark plugs if it is not simultaneously clogging them as it frees up carbon and dirty deposits (which is why I suggest changing plugs and wires after SeaFoam and continuing to put SeaFoam or desired fuel system cleaner in the gas tank for a bit) ... and possibly exhaust ... but likely not since it will mostly be burned up and spitting dirt into the exhaust.
As I previously described in detail, I also use SeaFoam in the crankcase and in the gas tank ... with excellent results.
As I previously described in detail, I also use SeaFoam in the crankcase and in the gas tank ... with excellent results.
I have used SeaFoam in the cankcase, in the spark plug valleys, in a vacuum line into the intake manifold into the engine and in the gas tank .... with extraordinary results: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...1&postcount=27 . I endorse it.
I have never used anything other than SeaFoam and question whether I ever will.
Seems like we may both have a good product and find no need to use the other.
SeaFoam used through ANY vacuum line into the intake manifold will clean whatever it touches and has ebnough time and strength to clean ... which would be everything in the flow path ... which would be intake manifold, runners, cylinders, cylinder walls ... injectors and spark plugs if it is not simultaneously clogging them as it frees up carbon and dirty deposits (which is why I suggest changing plugs and wires after SeaFoam and continuing to put SeaFoam or desired fuel system cleaner in the gas tank for a bit) ... and possibly exhaust ... but likely not since it will mostly be burned up and spitting dirt into the exhaust.
As I previously described in detail, I also use SeaFoam in the crankcase and in the gas tank ... with excellent results.
As I previously described in detail, I also use SeaFoam in the crankcase and in the gas tank ... with excellent results.
I have used SeaFoam in the cankcase, in the spark plug valleys, in a vacuum line into the intake manifold into the engine and in the gas tank .... with extraordinary results: http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...1&postcount=27 . I endorse it.
I have never used anything other than SeaFoam and question whether I ever will.
Seems like we may both have a good product and find no need to use the other.